Got my Widened factory 18"s [Archive]

JayC'sG

10-27-2006, 07:57 AM

After reading e-mail, vollying PMs back and forth, I finally got my wheels in. I bought an extra pair of 18"s from someone on eBay ($187 for two - SCORE!) and had them sent to weldcraft wheels as a reccomendation from someone else. They guy (James) does TOP notch work. They are widened 1.5". Take a look at the quality of the welds - Impressive! The white streaks/spots on the wheels is just dust. I then ordered the wheel adapters that a couple of other members ordered from Skulte Performance (Andris is his name). I don't have the tires mounted yet, but am probably going to go with the Kuhmo ECSTA MX in a 275/35/18. Anyway, here are the pics. BTW, thanks for all your help Fulton 1!

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/5334/imgp1401ca 7.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/2507/imgp1402hm8. jpg
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/6098/imgp1403wd 2.jpg
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/5847/imgp1408yp0. jpg
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/1772/imgp1409jt 6.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/2779/imgp1410bb6. jpg

JayC'sG

10-27-2006, 07:57 AM

http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/9036/imgp1411ud9. jpg
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/9843/imgp1412ps 6.jpg
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/3011/imgp1413hq 0.jpg
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/8800/imgp1414ff 9.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9540/imgp1415hi 7.jpg

Tonio

10-27-2006, 08:06 AM

I can't wait to see them mounted. How much did everything cost you?

Flashpoint

10-27-2006, 08:07 AM

They repaint the rims a more metallic silver or is that just the picture?

Great for someone who likes the stock wheels but wants wider rears. :thumbs:

nixapatfan

10-27-2006, 08:11 AM

How much did it cost? What offset did the rims end up being after the work? I was thinking of doing this but I don't know If I can stand the welds showing on the outside.

Shu

10-27-2006, 08:14 AM

Why didn't they grind the welds and re-paint behind the spokes? I'm thinking about having this done...

JayC'sG

10-27-2006, 08:28 AM

I can't wait to see them mounted. How much did everything cost you?

Well, it wasn't the cheapest route, LOL. That's for sure. Breakdown:
Wheels $187 (that was a STEAL!)
Widening $175/wheel ($390 after shipping)
Adapters $196 (Hub Centric lip included +$25 per adapter - necessity IMHO).
$773 total. - UGH, why'd you have to ask?! :-)

They repaint the rims a more metallic silver or is that just the picture? Great for someone who likes the stock wheels but wants wider rears.
It's just the picture. Sure does look more metallic though. Gotta love the camera flash. And yep, that's exactly my thought. I love the look of the factory wheels and wanted to keep it stock looking but be able to run some width in the back.

How much did it cost? What offset did the rims end up being after the work? I was thinking of doing this but I don't know If I can stand the welds showing on the outside.
I gave the breakdown above there. I think it got it all. The welds aren't going to be noticeable as they are on the inside and I couldn't justify the extra cost for smoothing the welds and having them painted. I don't think it'll be that visible. If it is, I'll get it painted. It looks brighter in the pics that what it is.

As far as offset goes, it came out to be the same, just 3/4" (19.05mm) wider on each side.

Fulton 1

10-27-2006, 08:32 AM

Lookin' good, buddy. Can't wait to see the finished product with the 275's.

Shu, Weldcraft will grind the welds for you if you request it - something like $20 per wheel extra.

camaronx

10-27-2006, 08:35 AM

brilliant! That is going to be the faschizzle!

Fulton 1

10-27-2006, 08:37 AM

The wheel has a factory 48mm offset, so added the 1.5 on the inside and then I added the 3/4" adapter to move the wheel out, so the offset works out to be.... someone else figure this out? LOL I had it all worked out before..

Its still +48mm. 1.5" wider = additional 19.05mm positive offsetn (half the added width). The 0.75" spacer takes away exactly that much offset gain, so net change in offset = 0. Essentially the wheel grows evenly - 3/4" inboard and 3/4" outboard from the stock position :)

JayC'sG

10-27-2006, 08:47 AM

Its still +48mm. 1.5" wider = additional 19.05mm positive offsetn (half the added width). The 0.75" spacer takes away exactly that much offset gain, so net change in offset = 0. Essentially the wheel grows evenly - 3/4" inboard and 3/4" outboard from the stock position :)

LOL, DOH! I knew I'd get that wrong! Yeah, what he said. Same offset, just wider. :burnout: [post above edited so as not to give bad info ;-)]

Fulton 1, thanks again for all your help.
Anyone else contemplating wanting to do this, consult him, he knows his stuff!

ddawson

10-27-2006, 08:48 AM

$773 total. - UGH, why'd you have to ask?! :-)

Never ask someone to total there modifications. It will make them sick and feel bad about themselves and it may start them :drink:

BTW they came out great and will look stock once mounted and :gears:

JayC'sG

10-27-2006, 08:50 AM

Lookin' good, buddy. Can't wait to see the finished product with the 275's.

Shu, Weldcraft will grind the welds for you if you request it - something like $20 per wheel extra.

Thanks, me too. I'm decided on the Khumo's ECSTA MXs anyone have anything bad to say about them? They seem to get good reviews.

Also, I guess weldcraft went up on the price of the smoothing the welds, he wanted something like $100 additional PER WHEEL. I opted to pass.

Fulton 1

10-27-2006, 08:52 AM

Also, I guess weldcraft went up on the price of the smoothing the welds, he wanted something like $100 additional PER WHEEL. I opted to pass.

Ouch. Yeah, I see why you passed on that...

TriflowM5+M3

10-27-2006, 09:36 AM

very cool...Ive heard of people doing this for other vehicles but never seen it actually done. Seeing people do stuff like this excites me because people are thinking outside the "norm"

As for the Ecsta MX....they are ok, at best. They lack overall precision and feel even given their very stiff sidewall profile. What they do lack is ride comfort and while they are considered UHP tires, there are tires out there that provide mroe grip with better ride comfort. While they arent horrid in the rain, they are sloppy and once they break away they are not as quick as some others to recaputure traction. That being said, they are a very very good tire for the money, but you could do better. While they dont seem to be very popular with the board, check out the General Exclaim, Avon Tech M500, Pirelli Pzero Nero (Summer only), Hankook Ventus K104. All are within the same pricing category as the MX's but provide nearly the same performance but with generally better ride complaince and wet traction.

ToddO

10-27-2006, 11:43 AM

Never ask someone to total there modifications. It will make them sick and feel bad about themselves and it may start them :drink:

BTW they came out great and will look stock once mounted and :gears:

I know the feeling. Try cracking the bottom piece of a FAST 90 intake. $400 later, back in business.

Riddlefox

10-27-2006, 12:09 PM

The Ecsta MX's are good tires. Not the best in the wet, but in the dry, they are pretty grippy - many people have won national-level autox's on MX's. I'd rather have them then the General Exclaim UHP's or Avon M500's... If I went Hankook, I'd go for the RS2 Z212's..

Ace

10-27-2006, 12:59 PM

I think I read in the last thread on this topic that you had to run with drag bags with a certain amount of air in them for these wheels to fit underneath, is that true?

RedhotGTO

10-27-2006, 01:15 PM

...I'm decided on the Khumo's ECSTA MXs anyone have anything bad to say about them? They seem to get good reviews.

I just got 7K fun-filled miles out of my set over this past summer. Included 2 open track days at PMI and many many hard canyon runs. I like them better then the Yoko ES100s.

BTW - Nice look'n rims ya got there. That's going to look sharp once you get them mounted.

.

LIVEVIL

10-27-2006, 01:17 PM

Damn I have ben considering having this done, so I can run 275's on the stock wheels.

JayC'sG

10-27-2006, 01:34 PM

I think I read in the last thread on this topic that you had to run with drag bags with a certain amount of air in them for these wheels to fit underneath, is that true?

No drag bags needed. They should fit w/ the fender lips rolled. Someone else stuffed a 285 out back but had to use drag bags. I am however going to pedders springs and Koni shocks all the way around.

I just got 7K fun-filled miles out of my set over this past summer. Included 2 open track days at PMI and many many hard canyon runs. I like them better then the Yoko ES100s.

BTW - Nice look'n rims ya got there. That's going to look sharp once you get them mounted.

.

Thanks, I did some reading here, on LS1TECH and vetteforums as well as some google searches and the overall opinion on the Kuhmo ECSTA MX seems to be pretty good. I went ahead and placed the order. They should be here Monday or Tuesday at the latest.

Jontall

10-27-2006, 02:45 PM

Weldcraft does excellent work...

Ace

10-27-2006, 05:56 PM

No drag bags needed. They should fit w/ the fender lips rolled. Someone else stuffed a 285 out back but had to use drag bags. I am however going to pedders springs and Koni shocks all the way around.

I will definately be interested in doing this if thats true. Let us know how everything fits as soon as you get them mounted.

mdmike

10-27-2006, 06:35 PM

Very nice.

GOATCRUISER

10-27-2006, 06:41 PM

That will def look great!!!

mike5215@bellsouth.n

10-27-2006, 07:09 PM

Cool! At first glance the grey shipping tape around the rim in the first pic looks like weld deformities on the edge of the wheel. I think that's why someone asked why they weren't finished.

sccaGTO

10-27-2006, 07:42 PM

Also, I guess weldcraft went up on the price of the smoothing the welds, he wanted something like $100 additional PER WHEEL. I opted to pass.
I'm hoping that you heard that wrong. Or, maybe it's different prices depending on whether wheels are being widened or narrowed. The second pair of WS6 wheels I sent him were the same price as the first pair. The stock WS6 wheels won't fit, so I had them narrowed one inch in order to fit on the front. He charged only $25 per wheel extra for grinding down the visable welds (on the side that people can see).

Please forgive the crappy cell phone pics.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attach mentid=45588&stc=1&d=1162003455
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attach mentid=45589&stc=1&d=1162003455

DeepBlueZ

10-27-2006, 07:51 PM

Its still +48mm. 1.5" wider = additional 19.05mm positive offsetn (half the added width). The 0.75" spacer takes away exactly that much offset gain, so net change in offset = 0. Essentially the wheel grows evenly - 3/4" inboard and 3/4" outboard from the stock position :)

isn't that going to rub now?

I'm having trouble visualizing this a little....wouldn't you want ALL the added width inboard to prevent getting near the fender lips?

sorry if this is a dumb question, like I said, I'm just having trying to visualize the wheel on the car.

MSBUCCIARELLI

10-27-2006, 07:53 PM

Those look great

sccaGTO

10-27-2006, 08:28 PM

isn't that going to rub now?

I'm having trouble visualizing this a little....wouldn't you want ALL the added width inboard to prevent getting near the fender lips?

sorry if this is a dumb question, like I said, I'm just having trying to visualize the wheel on the car.
The factory offset won't allow the wheels to safely fit without the tire rubbing the shock. By using the Skulte adapters, it moves the modded wheel away from the shocks, allowing the tires to not rub the shocks. He says he's still gonna have the fenders rolled to lessen the chance of a rub.

DeepBlueZ

10-27-2006, 08:38 PM

sccaGTO

10-27-2006, 08:41 PM

ahh ok, so if the room was there on the inside, theoretically, you would NOT use a spacer/adaptor.
Correct.

2004GTOFERN

10-27-2006, 09:06 PM

I like this alot! Look stock, but from behind... Look at those meats!

caritter3

10-27-2006, 09:49 PM

Gonna be really cool, get those pics up quick when you finish things.

Fulton 1

10-28-2006, 07:26 AM

The factory offset won't allow the wheels to safely fit without the tire rubbing the shock. By using the Skulte adapters, it moves the modded wheel away from the shocks, allowing the tires to not rub the shocks. He says he's still gonna have the fenders rolled to lessen the chance of a rub.

Exactly. The idea on the outboard side is to get the wheel out as far as you can toward the outer fender for a more aggressive look while still staying within a rolled lip. Inboard you want to go as far as you can while still leaving safe clearance.

One thing to note here is that all of this assumes that you do not want to raise the rear. If you are okay with running Pedders 7643's for example then some minor fender rolling is about all you should need outboard.

When I did this originally I had the rears widened to 18x9" and am running the same 3/4" spacer with 265/35/18 tires. My car is also lowered so I had to do some extensive fender rolling to prevent hitting the fender lips. I finally got it to the point where it never makes contact anymore. When I talked with JayC about his wheels, I peeked under my car and I thought that there was at least another 1/2" of room available inboard without any major modification.

So Jay's 18x9.5 would be like me adding 1/2" on the inboard side of my setup, which I think is very do-able. He is going to be running a slightly wider overall 275/35/18 tire, but since its stretched over a 9.5" wheel vs. my 9" and its biased inboard, I think, although requiring some massaging, that this is going to be about the perfect rear setup for the GTO if you want to retain the stock wheel look.

luke0927

10-28-2006, 08:31 AM

Fulton 1

10-28-2006, 11:46 AM

This is exactly what i want to do.....as i haven't really found any wheels i absoultly love that i can see spending the $$. how does using these adapters affect strenght etc.... and can you send me any info on how much and who etc... because this is what i want to get done.

Thanks

You will not sacrifice any strength with a properly designed/built wheel adapter. As you can see in JayC's pics earlier in the thread, the adapters actually bolt to the hub just like a wheel would. Then the wheel bolts to the press-fit studs in the adapter. Also, the additional wheelcentric lip on the spacer mates to the bore of the hubcentric wheels so that the load is still carried at the hub and not on the lugs. There are numerous folks that run these under demanding race-type, high horsepower conditions.

The only real drawbacks to these adapters is that they will add a little bit of weight due to the additional studs and lugs, but since the additional mass is close to the center of rotation is not as big of a deal. Andris Skulte at SPD is the guy you want to contact ( www.skulte.com ). He'll build you custom spacers too if there are other applications out there of interest.

Oh, one more note. For anyone running these types of spacers/adapters, be sure to follow the recommended torquing procedure. Basically, you torque everything down, drive the car for about 5 miles, and then pull the wheels off and retorque the spacer lugs. They will loosen up on that initial drive so don't neglect this step. After that you're good to go.

sccaGTO

10-28-2006, 02:24 PM

Fulton 1

10-28-2006, 04:11 PM

Just for comparison, here are a couple of before/after pics that I took of mine (pardon the crappy, overexposed before shots - old camera and just trying to adjust the image so the tires aren't in shadow so much). The 18x9.5's are going to look more substantial, but even with my 18x9's and 265's pushed out another 3/4" from stock it just enhances the look from the rear so much more, yet from the side it looks stock...

BEFORE:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g167/Fulton1/ful lrearstockview.jpg

AFTER:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g167/Fulton1/fun nyrearviewGTO.jpg

BEFORE:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g167/Fulton1/sto ckreartireview.jpg

AFTER:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g167/Fulton1/rea rviewlefttire.jpg

Iso View:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g167/Fulton1/IMG _0140-1.jpg

camaross305

10-28-2006, 04:33 PM

do you know if by any chance they do aluminum wheels too? Pm me with the price they charged you to widen both wheels

Fulton 1

10-28-2006, 04:38 PM

do you know if by any chance they do aluminum wheels too? Pm me with the price they charged you to widen both wheels
The OEM wheels are aluminum. See earlier posts for pricing info.

sccaGTO

10-28-2006, 04:39 PM

All of the pics we've shown are of aluminum wheels.

SlotCar

10-29-2006, 09:09 AM

Very cool wheel solution and a nice write up of the process.

Thanks for sharing the info.

JayC'sG

10-30-2006, 07:31 AM

No problem in the sharing. I know there has been a lot of talk about this. Fulton 1 was really my 'straw on the camel's back' so to speak that made me finally pull the trigger. I couldn't be happier with the quality of the welds - they're awesome.

The first pic has some duct tape on the lip to protect it. I think someone asked about that. Here's a word of advice if anyone get's this done. DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT RIP THE TAPE OFF! You'll pull the finish/paint off the wheels. I started pulling the tape and saw this about to happen as it pulled a tad bit off one lip. I did some reasearch and found that the folks in forenzics use liquid nitrogen to remove duct tape from corpses (gruesome, I know). So I went and bought a couple cans of compressed air. When you turn it upside down, it sprays out liquid that's dang near liquid nitrogen temps. Anyway, I sprayed about 6" at a time and it came off w/ ease. Then I took WD40 and removed the duct tape residue and it cleaned up perfect.

Thanks for all the compliments. I'll take plenty of before and after pics and keep everyone posted.

Someone also asked if I heard right about the $100/wheel for the grinding. I definitely heard right as I had a lengthy conversation with James at Weldcraft about how most opt not to due to the cost. He said it's a very labor intensive task thus the high price.

JayC'sG

10-30-2006, 11:34 AM

Well, I just got an IM from someone at home :-) BTW, the Jason listed below is me.

Here's the IM recap:
10/30/06 01:15:45 xxxxxxx@hotmail says: there are some GIANT tires that jus got delivered....
10/30/06 01:15:47 xxxxxxx@hotmail says: SWEET
10/30/06 01:15:51 Jason says: SCHWING!
10/30/06 01:16:03 Jason says: awesome
10/30/06 01:17:11 xxxxxxx@hotmail says: the ups guy looked real happy
10/30/06 01:17:11 xxxxxxx@hotmail says: LOL

So, it looks like I'll have a happy evening looking at my new rear meats! I'll be sure and take some pics. BTW, they're 275/35/18 Kuhmo ECSTA MX.

Amazingly fast too, I ordered these on Friday (the 27th). From Louisiana to TX. Gotta love it.

burnz

10-30-2006, 04:53 PM

nice, make the stockers look small

Harpo

10-30-2006, 05:27 PM

That's really cool. I've looked into doing that on other cars -- but not the GTO. Enjoy.

woffman5

10-31-2006, 07:35 AM

So, maybe someone has already asked this question, but are you going to get the fenders rolled? I know dumb question, but I was just wondering.:gears:

JayC'sG

11-01-2006, 10:52 AM

So, maybe someone has already asked this question, but are you going to get the fenders rolled? I know dumb question, but I was just wondering.:gears:

Yes, I'm going to get the fenders rolled. I had them mounted and balanced yesterday. I wanted DiscountTire to put them on the car just to see how bad they wouldn't fit and they wouldn't mount them on the car because of the spacer... liability reasons. So, I had to take them home and I'll have to do it myself. Not a big deal. I don't have any pics of them mounted but I do have the pre mount pics. These bad boys are right at 11" wide. EESH... I hope they'll fit!

Lookie Loo:

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6963/imgp1417jk 5.jpg
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/4050/imgp1418zb 7.jpg
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1895/imgp1419vm 7.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5142/imgp1421kj 3.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9457/imgp1425cr 4.jpg
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/3793/imgp1426gl 1.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/7062/imgp1427ef 7.jpg
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7546/imgp1430pj 2.jpg
http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/8770/imgp1432em 9.jpg

Hopefully tonight I can get some pics of them mounted and I might even try a test fit to see how much fender will have to be rolled/cut.

BTW, no comments on the dirty rockerpanels! :-P It's been raining like crazy in Houston. I just had a chance to get her clean for more than 3 days.

>3 days w/ out rain FTW!

-Jason

radarwz

11-01-2006, 11:03 AM

Drags Bags @ 25 psi. lol

JayC'sG

11-01-2006, 11:10 AM

Drags Bags @ 25 psi. lol

Not for me. Konis and Pedders w/ rolled lips. Some like it, just not my thing

Fulton 1

11-01-2006, 12:42 PM

Hopefully tonight I can get some pics of them mounted and I might even try a test fit to see how much fender will have to be rolled/cut.

If you have some time on your hands, lift and support the rear of the car, pull out the rear springs (that's the "if you have time" part :) ), mount the wheels/spacers, and then jack up the control arm to see where it contacts the fender lip. This'll give you an indication of where you stand.

JayC'sG

11-01-2006, 01:48 PM

If you have some time on your hands, lift and support the rear of the car, pull out the rear springs (that's the "if you have time" part :) ), mount the wheels/spacers, and then jack up the control arm to see where it contacts the fender lip. This'll give you an indication of where you stand.

Man.... you and your brilliant ideas! It's your fault I'm in this boat! LOL.. kidding of course. Excellent idea. I will definitely give that a shot. Seems like that would let me knowe exaclty where I am in terms of fitment.

Fulton 1

11-01-2006, 02:08 PM

Man.... you and your brilliant ideas!

ha. My natural reaction when hearing this phrase is to duck and cover... :shiner:

This process (clearance checking) is a bit of a PITA with our IRS (much easier on a solid axle rear), but it is a good idea if you have the time and don't want to guess on a brand new set of tires. Also, as the suspension compresses in the rear the camber becomes more negative so, while that helps clearance, it also makes it more difficult to gage when just sitting there level.

Clearing the 275's in this configuration isn't going to be easy, but with some work I do think itsdo-able. I'm confident you can make it work. :drink: ;)

sccaGTO

11-01-2006, 04:00 PM

This process (clearance checking) is a bit of a PITA with our IRS (much easier on a solid axle rear), but it is a good idea if you have the time and don't want to guess on a brand new set of tires. Also, as the suspension compresses in the rear the camber becomes more negative so, while that helps clearance, it also makes it more difficult to gage when just sitting there level.
Don't forget, he's going with Konis & Pedders suspension parts in the rear. The IRS won't tilt as much as a stock suspension IRS will. That makes the clearance checking an even better idea.

JayC'sG

11-02-2006, 08:42 AM

Well, I got them mounted last night. Boy are they big, I mean BIG. I took tons of pics but forgot to bring my cable with me today to xfer the pics. I'll have to do it tomorrow. First glance though, I don't think it's going to work. I think the tires are a smidge too wide. I might have to step down to a 265. I don't know 100% yet. They will defintely rub, and I don't know if the fender can be rolled enough to prevent it. I'm kind of bummed about it, but we'll see. I'll post the pics when I get them off. The tires are about 1/4" taller too so it picked the car rear up about 1/4" and I hate the way it looks. I like that flat level look. But even w/ 1/2" pedders in the back, 3/8" in the front, konis and rolled lips I don't think the tires will fit inside the wheel wells. I drove it about a .5 mile last night. No rubbing but I did hit a small dip and heard the wonderful bump sound of the tire.

I was wondering if I should have gone w/ a 1/2" spacer instead of the 3/4". But then I got to thinking that 1.5" on the inside might now allow that. (Should I have had them only widened to 9" instead of 9.5" ?!) I haven't measured all of this yet so at this point it's me thinking outloud. I hope I haven't over sized it all. I'll get the pics posted and keep you guys updated. Any local Houston guys wanna come by and take a look? :-)

The specs on the Khumos are 11.1" wide on a 9.5" wheel. Is anyone else running an 11.1" tire (275/35/18) w/ rolled lips and successfully not rubbing?

use2vtec

11-02-2006, 09:09 AM

I hope you get it all worked out. Thanks for posting up your progress on how this is going. If you can get this to work this will definitely be a option in the future for me. Goodluck!!

sccaGTO

11-02-2006, 01:49 PM

JayC'sG

11-02-2006, 02:24 PM

Try to measure the area behind the wheel again. If you have 1/4" to spare, I'd say reorder the spacers. I'm running a 275/40/17 on a 9" wide wheel with no problems. I don't think this is a problem with tire size. WTF am I saying, it seems like every time we try to go to a bigger size, we rub.

I'm going tomorrow to get my fenders rolled. I found a place here in Houston that does it. Amazingly they're like 1 mile down the road. They specialize in euros and exotics so the work should be top notch.

I talked to the place where I got my 3/4" adapter at today and I can get a 1/2" spacer to move it in a tad bit. I just need to measure the area in the wheel wells (Mirror and a light I guess?) to make sure I acutally have that much to give.

I think you're right though, it's a tire size issue at this point. Hopefully tirerack will let me return them even though they've been mounted and order one size smaller. I'll you all know more of the saga tomorrow. :-)

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:33 AM

Mkay... here we go. TONS of pics, so beware :-)

Recap first. Last night after I got home, I spent a good bit of time surveying the situation, checking clearances, rubbing, etc. The 3/4" spacer and the massive Kuhmo 275s just put the tire far outboard for it to fit inside the lip. No way around it. (See pics below). So, I decided I wanted to see how the would fit w/out the adapter. So, I took the adapter off, and mounted up the tires. Slowly lowered, checked for clearances and I'll be dang if I didn't have 1/4" or so of clearance in the inside. NO WAY. I checked, double checked and re checked using my mirror and trusty shop light. 1/4" wouldnt be enough IMO to drive, because of left/right sway, but there's clearance.

So, I took it for a short slow drive down the street. I hear a slight rub after about 70 feet or so, but it's plastic against rubber, not metal. Hmmm... okay. Took it back home, jacked her back up and found it was the black plastic piece on the rear of the fender well - the piece that screws to the bottom of the rocker panel and back into the fender well. So, I took a dremel to it and trimmed it up. Went back out for a drive - no rubbing. No way... I goose it a bit for some squat and I hear some slight rub. Took her down the street a bit, goosed it a couple of times lightly and there was slight rubbing, but nothing major. So, I stop, put on the brake, let the clutch out a bit and let her creep forward. This causes the car to squat and the tires to roll. No rubbing. Hmm.. okay.

Back home, I jack it up and see where in the inner fender wells it's rubbing. VERY LITTLE. So, at this time I'm going to go with either a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer and longler ARP wheel studs. If I can get away w/ the 1/4" adapters I doubt I'll need the wheel studs, but if I use the 1/2" adpater then I definiltey will want the longer studs. Only reason I'm contemplating the 1/2" adapter is that I plan on lowering the car 1/2" in the back and I don't know if the 1/4" would provide enough clearance after the drop. I guess I could always "massage" the inner wells at those spots 1/4" or so, but that creeps me out banging on the sheet metal. Anyway, here are all the pics. There's a lot. Sorry for the lengthy post.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/3914/imgp1433pp 6.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6166/imgp1438bw 3.jpg
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/4905/imgp1439uf 9.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/278/imgp1440lx9 .jpg (my other toy)
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/4013/imgp1441px 4.jpg
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/9021/imgp1444fr 2.jpg
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/4528/imgp1447am 1.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/261/imgp1449rw0 .jpg caliper
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/5849/imgp1450bo 4.jpg (w/ adpater)

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:35 AM

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/856/imgp1452oq4 .jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4599/imgp1456pw 3.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8132/imgp1458uq 0.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6620/imgp1460uv 4.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/5761/imgp1461jk 5.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1774/imgp1463ts 7.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2268/imgp1466lr 1.jpg

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:36 AM

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/4682/imgp1469tk 4.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2369/imgp1470un 6.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/6528/imgp1471nq 1.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/1069/imgp1472mj 2.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/3228/imgp1474qu 5.jpg

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:37 AM

After suspension settle. You can really see where it sits now. No way it would fit w/ the adpater and these treads.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/2472/imgp1477uh 3.jpg
http://img285.imageshack.us/img285/9291/imgp1478za 5.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/1905/imgp1480pi 7.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/2781/imgp1481zi 4.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8894/imgp1482yb 3.jpg

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:39 AM

Here is how it sits w/ out the adpater. I LOVE the way it's tucked in there. Looks sweet.

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/2706/imgp1484ul 2.jpg
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/9945/imgp1486on 3.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9018/imgp1487fo 2.jpg
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/4223/imgp1489rd 5.jpg

Here is how much clearance there is now w/out the adpater. After a fender rolling you can clearly see that there will be no issue. Even If I go 1/2" out there still should be any problems w/ a good fender rolling.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4139/imgp1490mn 4.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3258/imgp1491dm 5.jpg
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/8020/imgp1492yv6. jpg

passenger clearance
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/7430/imgp1493hj6. jpg

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:41 AM

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/5812/imgp1495hg 4.jpg

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3589/imgp1496tt 1.jpg (after trim of black plastic piece)

passenger rubbing in fender well.
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/4397/imgp1497cd 8.jpg

passenger side has no rubbing on the black plastic piece, just the fender well.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2985/imgp1498da 4.jpg

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 07:43 AM

Okay, so there's all the pics. Sorry for so many, I just want everyone to see all the progress in case someone else decides to do it. I can say that I am REALLY surprised how much room there actually is inside the fender wells, especially once the lip is rolled. These wheels are 9.5" wide and the tires are 11" in width. With the adapter and the fender rolled they should fit inside perfectly. It's coming along quite nicely and I think will be awesome once completed.

Thoughts, suggestions, comments? Fire away.

-Jason

Riddlefox

11-03-2006, 08:49 AM

What's your alignment settings? Maybe it's just the camera angle, but it looks like you have positive camber..

tgoodGTO

11-03-2006, 08:59 AM

tgoodGTO

11-03-2006, 09:29 AM

I just answered my own question. At www.skulte.com, go to slip on spacers. In the description it is stated that slip on spacers can be cut to center on factory hub-centric ring and the spacer itself can be milled with a ring to locate the rim (extra cost). Add longer studs and your good to go. Thanks again for your research on this project. I am getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger.

Fulton 1

11-03-2006, 09:30 AM

Looking good. I am also amazed at how much will actually fit in the wheel wells. I would be very interested to see what would happen with a 1/4" spacer. I know that doesn't give much clearance. 1/2" would probably be the safe bet. My only concern with a spacer is losing the hub-centric aspect of the wheel mounting. I wonder if there is a 1/4 or 1/2 spacer that has a hub-centric ring. You may or may not have an answer for this...this may be a question for your spacer guy. A spacer with hub-centric ring and adding longer studs would seem to be the ticket. I really appreciate your time and detailed posting on this. There are many of us looking to do something like this and it is nice to see all options being explored in detail and step by step.

I'm almost certain Andris can do a slip-on spacer with wheelcentric lip on it.

use2vtec

11-03-2006, 11:02 AM

Glad its all working out. Please keep us posted on how the fender rolling and the spacer works out.

JayC'sG

11-03-2006, 01:29 PM

Looking good. I am also amazed at how much will actually fit in the wheel wells. I would be very interested to see what would happen with a 1/4" spacer. I know that doesn't give much clearance. 1/2" would probably be the safe bet. My only concern with a spacer is losing the hub-centric aspect of the wheel mounting. I wonder if there is a 1/4 or 1/2 spacer that has a hub-centric ring. You may or may not have an answer for this...this may be a question for your spacer guy. A spacer with hub-centric ring and adding longer studs would seem to be the ticket. I really appreciate your time and detailed posting on this. There are many of us looking to do something like this and it is nice to see all options being explored in detail and step by step.

No problem. It's fun and I'll be glad when it's all done. :) I spoke to skulte and no problem on the centric ring spacer. I'll figure out how much space exactly I need and get it ordered. In the meantime I'm going to get the lips rolled. This will be sweet when it's done. Then it'll be time for the pedders and Konis.

-Jason

AussifiedMuscle

11-06-2006, 04:00 PM

jeebus...nice new stance...

how much extra weight did the widening add on? and did any of them need some serious weights to be balanced correctly?

sccaGTO

11-06-2006, 06:51 PM

luke0927

11-06-2006, 07:24 PM

Are there pics of it after the fenders rolled...? maybe i missed it ive been searching ebay for a set and this is what i want to do. i want to see some before and afters of fender rolling...? exactly what does it do?

AussifiedMuscle

11-06-2006, 09:12 PM

Are there pics of it after the fenders rolled...? exactly what does it do?
you can visually see that the fenders arent rolled...when you roll the fenders, the stepped part is either angled further up or folded flat against the inside of the quarter panel/fender for more clearance...

JayC'sG

11-07-2006, 06:38 AM

Correct. I have not had the fenders rolled yet. That is happening this week. I need to get spacers on order too.

As far as the weight goes. I honestly don't know. And the tire/wheel combo balanced perfectly. No more weights than usual on the factory tires. Weldcraft does amazing wor

luke0927

11-07-2006, 10:36 AM

JayC'sG

11-07-2006, 11:37 AM

ok soo to make this work with 18s you only need the spacer and then roll your fenders and you should have no troubles clearing a 9.5" wheel with 275s? i just got a little confused with all the pictures and measuring and havnt' had the time to deatail read back through them.

Thanks

On MY car yes. I had the wheels widened 1.5" and run a Kuhmo ECSTA MX 275/35/18" which is 11.1" of contact patch. 1/4" adapter will suffice to clear. This is on my car. I would HIGHLY reccomend you measure yours before as there could be some measured differences. But over all yes, that's the gist of it.

AussifiedMuscle

11-07-2006, 01:06 PM

On MY car yes. I had the wheels widened 1.5" and run a Kuhmo ECSTA MX 275/35/18" which is 11.1" of contact patch. 1/4" adapter will suffice to clear. This is on my car. I would HIGHLY reccomend you measure yours before as there could be some measured differences. But over all yes, that's the gist of it.

so ive been reading about not being able to fit meat or extend the wheel to be more "flush" due to the rear bumper being an obstruction...according to my calculations, by you going from 8" +48 to a 9.5" +48, your wheel will extend an extra 19mm outboard, thats about 3/4"...and thats just your wheels position, not your 275 that comes out more...so my question is, did you or did you not have to modify the rear bumper to accomodate the wider wheels and/or wider tires?

JayC'sG

11-07-2006, 01:08 PM

so ive been reading about not being able to fit meat or extend the wheel to be more "flush" due to the rear bumper being an obstruction...according to my calculations, by you going from 8" +48 to a 9.5" +48, your wheel will extend an extra 19mm outboard, thats about 3/4"...and thats just your wheels position, not your 275 that comes out more...so my question is, did you or did you not have to modify the rear bumper to accomodate the wider wheels and/or wider tires?

The rear bumper? No, I never touched the rear bumber. The fender lips however are getting rolled. Look at the the above pics that I have shown with the ruler and you can see where the ruler is touching the fender lip hence the reason they are going to be rolled.

JHamilton

11-07-2006, 01:30 PM

Looks great. Thanks for the detailed write up and pictures as I bet quite a few people will attept this.

Now, I need to figure out how to get 265s on all 4 corners. :drink:

AussifiedMuscle

11-07-2006, 01:43 PM

yeah, i realize that the next logical step for you is to roll the fenders, but im just confirming the warnings about the rear bumper...ive been asking/reading around, and it seems that some owners have had trouble with the rear bumper rubbing the tire under supsension compression...im just trying to figure out if i can get more aggressive wheels for a wider stance via wheel offset and size, not just tires...im willing to do whatever it takes to the body...i was planning to roll and pull the fenders about an inch to accomodate my setup, but was discouraged by the news of the rear bumper...well, i guess the only way to find out is to start tinkering...

JayC'sG

11-07-2006, 02:14 PM

I would highly advise against pulling the fenders. I don't see a reason to do it anyway as I'm not going to have any problems getting the 275s to fit. There are other things to consider when pulling fenders. The black plastic piece that fits in the back half of the inner fender well is screwed into the bottom plexi piece of the bumper and provides support. That would have to be modified. Also, I don't think there's enough physical sheet metal there to move it out. Alos, I have not seen anyone anywhere have to mod the bumper to get the tires to fit in the back. These of course are just my opinions. :-)

JayC'sG

11-10-2006, 07:39 AM

mmmmmmmmkay, just dropped the goat off to get the fenders rolled. I also ordered my 1/4" spacers yesterday which should be here in a week or so. I'll snap some pics of the rolled fenders (of course - I'm picture happy). The project continues and will hopefully be wrapped up in a week or so.... stay tuned, more updates to come!

Also, depending on how well these guys do (well I hope!!), we Houston guys will have a good resource for fender rolling. I know other HGHers have expressed interest in this. I mentioned it to them too that depending on how well it goes there could be additional business from it. These guys work on exotics left and right so I'm pretty confident they have a grasp on 'picky' owners and there preferences as well as the importance of quality work.

-Jason

sccaGTO

11-11-2006, 03:02 AM

Now, I need to figure out how to get 265s on all 4 corners. :drink:
Using an 8.5" wide wheel with a +40 offset should accomplish that. Just be prepared for the possibility of having to roll the rear fenders.

AussifiedMuscle

11-12-2006, 02:15 AM

hopefully they wont crack or peel the paint....

JayC'sG

11-13-2006, 06:32 AM

hopefully they wont crack or peel the paint....

Well, there was a couple of cracks actually. I wasn't too thrilled about it, but alteast it's under there and I have some touch up paint to fix it. Bummer though. He was very apologetic about it and even offerend to to do the touch up paint for me. He also said it was the hardest <insert explicit here> fender well he's ever rolled. Said that most GM cars fold up like tin cans but this one was extremely strong. But hey, that's how they do things down under. ;-)

At any rate, the lips are rolled, spacers on their way. Hopefully this little project will be wrapped up in a week or so. It sure has taken a while.

Xac Xado

11-15-2006, 06:08 PM

hmmm, $600 (i already have the 18's) ... this may be a cheaper way to go than buying a whole new set of rims.

any one have the damage (cost) for the fender rolling?

chevyposer

11-15-2006, 10:37 PM

This is GREAT idea! I love the stock 18s, and sleeper is always a bonus.:secret:

JayC'sG

11-16-2006, 05:48 AM

hmmm, $600 (i already have the 18's) ... this may be a cheaper way to go than buying a whole new set of rims.

any one have the damage (cost) for the fender rolling?
I had mine done here locally for $100

This is GREAT idea! I love the stock 18s, and sleeper is always a bonus.:secret:

That's how I feel about it too. I like the sleeper look and the stock wheels but we all know we need wide shoes out back.

Just an update, I'm waiting for my 1/4" spacers. As soon as those are in, I'll have the tires fitted and of course, posted with pics.

JayC'sG

11-21-2006, 06:33 AM

Okay, here they are in all their glory. I still need to get longer wheel studs, but they are gripping approx 85% of the stud, so I feel okay with it until my new studs get here. Anyway, on with the pics.

Here are the 1/4"spacers, once again, skulte nails a home run with a fantastic quality piece of machined billet. This guy is awesome:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1530%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1531%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1535%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1536%20 (Medium).JPG

After I put them on, I some ever so slight rub on the driver side latter half plastic piece on the inner fender well, it was so slight and I had to really get on it around the corner to make it rub, but I wanted to remedy it so I broke out the hi-tech rub detection device:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1537%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1538%20 (Medium).JPG

It was rubbing there and on the head of the plastic rivet that keeps that piece affixed to the inner well. So, took the heat gun and remolded a few areas, and dremeled the ridge down under the rivet. Put it back on, went for a long drive and viola. no rub:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1539%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1540%20 (Medium).JPG

JayC'sG

11-21-2006, 06:40 AM

No rub on the passenger side:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1543%20 (Medium).JPG

Here's where I re-sprayed the inner wells with the sound deadner/liner to coverup the original rub.
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1544%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1545%20 (Medium).JPG

Here's a few pics with them on the car. I'll get some better daylight shots. These were early this morning before complete sun rise.
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1546%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1548%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1549%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1550%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1551%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1553%20 (Medium).JPG

JayC'sG

11-21-2006, 06:43 AM

http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1555%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1556%20 (Medium).JPG
My fave shot here:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1559%20 (Medium).JPG

http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1560%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1561%20 (Medium).JPG

Here are some shots that show the inside of the wheel. You can see where it's widened if you look close enough.

http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1557%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1558%20 (Medium).JPG

I have 1280 x 1024 shots of all of these pics on my site if anyone wants to check it out. Link to larger pics (http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels)

Huntress

11-21-2006, 06:54 AM

evil red x

might try removing the spaces from the file names?

Anyway.... they look GREAT!

JayC'sG

11-21-2006, 07:30 AM

Red X where? Are you using IE? Anyone else seeing red X's?

Huntress

11-21-2006, 07:38 AM

yes using IE... you might be seeing them because of your cache, however wish I could stick around to see if changing the name of one of the pics helps, but gotta run.

Once again.... looks great!!!

JayC'sG

11-21-2006, 07:58 AM

yes using IE... you might be seeing them because of your cache, however wish I could stick around to see if changing the name of one of the pics helps, but gotta run.

Once again.... looks great!!!

Hmm. strange. I tried from a different physical PC with success and sent it to two others in my IM list (one in FL) and they both can see 'em. Not sure what's up over there huntress.

sccaGTO

11-21-2006, 04:26 PM

All that I can say about this thread is: :gr_devil: :gr_devil: :gr_devil: . I know what I'm gonna do now.

Xac Xado

11-21-2006, 06:22 PM

Jay -

can you post some more pics of the current tires on next to the old stock tire to see the difference?

thx

JayC'sG

11-22-2006, 06:36 AM

Jay -

can you post some more pics of the current tires on next to the old stock tire to see the difference?

thx

Here ya go:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1433%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1448%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1434%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1443%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1445%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1447%20 (Medium).JPG

Here's a couple of the stock rears:
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1454%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1455%20 (Medium).JPG
Here's the after. Look at how much closer to the center rear gray valance the new tire is vs the old. Big difference.
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1550%20 (Medium).JPG
http://www.brazengto.com/images/wheels/IMGP1559%20 (Medium).JPG

BTW, the Kuhmo ECSTA MX in cold weather isn't so great. You know that must be bad coming from someone in Houston,TX where it's cold when it's 47*. I am hoping the traction get's better as they heat up. I've got some serious wheel hop now.... time for pedders.

Napalm

11-22-2006, 07:14 AM

tgoodGTO

11-22-2006, 08:03 AM

Hey JayC'sG, it looks great and I will be doing this one day down the road. Thanks for all of your work and time and very thorough posts. It helps us out a bunch.
I do have a couple of questions though. First, do you think you could have gone with a 3/8" spacer and not had any of the rubbing issues? And is there enough fender clearance in your opinion to go out another 1/8 inch? Also, I noticed that you did not have Skulte include a hub centric ring extension on your 1/4 inch spacers. Do the rims still center up correctly now that the hub does not extend into the rim as far? I inquired a while back, and Skulte said they could mill the hub extension into their spacers. Thanks for your help...It is looking good man.

sccaGTO

11-22-2006, 03:41 PM

I hope you don't mind me copying your idea with a different rim. Course I'm gonna do it anyway. Looks sick, sounds easy. I need to find someone in M-town to roll fenders.

sccaGTO and I are trying to mount 295's with a similar setup. Glad to see it working.

I'm glad you're gonna be satisfied with a 295, Nathan. When I'm done, I'm hoping to make 295's an everyday size & make 315's possible.

JayC'sG

11-22-2006, 09:49 PM

I hope you don't mind me copying your idea with a different rim. Course I'm gonna do it anyway. Looks sick, sounds easy. I need to find someone in M-town to roll fenders.

sccaGTO and I are trying to mount 295's with a similar setup. Glad to see it working.

Nope, don't mind at all! that's why I posted like I did as I'm sure others would want to do the same, that's what it's all about!

Hey JayC'sG, it looks great and I will be doing this one day down the road. Thanks for all of your work and time and very thorough posts. It helps us out a bunch.
I do have a couple of questions though. First, do you think you could have gone with a 3/8" spacer and not had any of the rubbing issues? And is there enough fender clearance in your opinion to go out another 1/8 inch? Also, I noticed that you did not have Skulte include a hub centric ring extension on your 1/4 inch spacers. Do the rims still center up correctly now that the hub does not extend into the rim as far? I inquired a while back, and Skulte said they could mill the hub extension into their spacers. Thanks for your help...It is looking good man.

No prob on the posting, I'm a picture hog, so that helps too. I throughly believe that we're at the limit here. Anything further outboard would rub, and there's not much more inside either. I hope my new shocks aren't much larger in diamater as it might rub. We'll see. You MIGHT and I stress MIGHT have 1/4" w/ more fender rolling or cutting, but I just can't see getting any more out of it.
As far as the hub centric ring extension, it wasn't necessary. If you look in the pics above you'll see that the hub ring sticks out far enough for the wheel to grab like it should. The only thing I would do differently at this point is to get some custom length wheel studs to grab the extra 1/4" or so that was lost. Andris at skulte recomended getting the ARPS, cutting them to length and sacrificing a lug nut to re-thread the cut end - that's a possibility for me and I probably will, but other than that, it's 100% on the $!

I enjoyed this little project, and so the next one starts..... :-)

sccaGTO

11-23-2006, 06:40 AM

I throughly believe that we're at the limit here. Anything further outboard would rub, and there's not much more inside either. I hope my new shocks aren't much larger in diamater as it might rub. We'll see. You MIGHT and I stress MIGHT have 1/4" w/ more fender rolling or cutting, but I just can't see getting any more out of it.
I think that there is more that we can get out of it. But, that will require some rear suspension mods, which I'm planning to do. I now have a couple of wheel choices in mind as well as spring sets in mind. I'll definately make a big deal when I start that thread. I also think that if you have your rear fenders rolled, a 295 would already fit. I am not saying that is guaranteed. Someone (like you) who has already gone through test fitting & fender rolling would be the only one to test that theory.
As far as the hub centric ring extension, it wasn't necessary. If you look in the pics above you'll see that the hub ring sticks out far enough for the wheel to grab like it should. The only thing I would do differently at this point is to get some custom length wheel studs to grab the extra 1/4" or so that was lost. Andris at skulte recomended getting the ARPS, cutting them to length and sacrificing a lug nut to re-thread the cut end - that's a possibility for me and I probably will, but other than that, it's 100% on the $!
You could go with an ET style of lug nut. There is a small shank that is approximately 1/4" down from the seat of the lug nut. Inside the shank part are threads to screw onto the wheel stud. This gives you back some of what the spacer took away from you.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attach mentid=47039&stc=1&d=1164293003

JayC'sG

11-23-2006, 08:32 PM

I think that there is more that we can get out of it. But, that will require some rear suspension mods, which I'm planning to do. I now have a couple of wheel choices in mind as well as spring sets in mind. I'll definately make a big deal when I start that thread. I also think that if you have your rear fenders rolled, a 295 would already fit. I am not saying that is guaranteed. Someone (like you) who has already gone through test fitting & fender rolling would be the only one to test that theory.

You could go with an ET style of lug nut. There is a small shank that is approximately 1/4" down from the seat of the lug nut. Inside the shank part are threads to screw onto the wheel stud. This gives you back some of what the spacer took away from you.

hey, cool idea! very cool. I just might have to do that. Although, do you know if the factory lug covers will fit it? I gotta retain that factory look. ;)

Napalm

11-24-2006, 11:21 AM

Being plastic, they should be easy to mod to fit. If needed. Personally I'd get a set in black and leave the covers off. I think it would still appear stock to most people.

sccaGTO

11-24-2006, 04:44 PM

hey, cool idea! very cool. I just might have to do that. Although, do you know if the factory lug covers will fit it? I gotta retain that factory look. ;)
Considering how much the little gray covers cost, I don't think I'd want to modify them. I run chrome lug nuts. As long as you have the stock looking wheels, most people won't know the difference. At least if you went with chrome lugs of any kind, you wouldn't have to worry about the little yellow plastic clip to remove the covers if you get a flat tire. Less weight! :gr_jest: