Shifters

[gtofan]

Anyone know if Kirban is going to be making a shifter for the GTO? After hearing all the good things about Kirban from CMNTMXR, I looked at the shifters they offer for the F-body, and was very impressed. Anyway, I e-mailed KirbanPerformance.com (I assumed that's who makes the shifters, although they're not mentioned on that site), and have received no response. Anyone have any contacts or other info sources?

[CMNTMXR57]

Kirban is a smaller known unit than the big guys (B&M, Pro 5.0, Hurst, etc) so chances are, they'll also be the last to have a unit out for the GTO unfortunately.

For now, I'll be looking for a B&M unit until Kirban comes out with one.

[CrispieGee]

I've sat in a couple of M6 GTOs and didn't find the shifter to be that notchy... until I drove my friend's Acura TL. The Acura's shifter slips through gears like it was covered in baby oil (not that I recommend that as a lubricant!).

Anyway, I will definitely want to get an aftermarket shifter for the Goat.

[Adam4356]

The OE shifter doesn't feel bad if you are not used to some of the better stuff out there. Only import stick i've driven has been an Audi TT and that was nice. The zo6 i drove felt really good too.

[derf]

Compared to my 3/4 ton pickup, the GTO has a fine shifter. But I do know it could be a lot better.

[Lumina ss]

do this first then, detirmine if you realy need to spend money on an after market shifter

[CrispieGee]

do this first then, detirmine if you realy need to spend money on an after market shifter

Do what first? Put it on a table? :slap:


By the way, I love when people say, "I drive a '78 Diamond T cement truck, and the GTO shifts much better." We won't get improvements unless we demand them!

[Lumina ss]

they normally only have one hole to pin the linkage to. you machine the sides higher and drill a new hole 10mm higher for 40% throw reduction.

[CrispieGee]

they normally only have one hole to pin the linkage to. you machine the sides higher and drill a new hole 10mm higher for 40% throw reduction.

Brilliantly simple!

I was wondering if it was possible to do something like that, but I wasn't sure what the guts of a shifter looked like. Very good suggestion, Lumina. :)

[BillyGoatGruff]

Is that 10mm measurement from the top of the 1st hole to the middle of the 2nd, or is it from top of 1st hole to bottom of 2nd hole.
Also read on ls1.com.au that someone moved the pivot point, which we are talking about 16mm up. I am not sure how they are measuring it or from which orgin. Just a few things.

[mlc]

they normally only have one hole to pin the linkage to. you machine the sides higher and drill a new hole 10mm higher for 40% throw reduction.

So that will shorten the throw but will it help on being less notchy?

[CMNTMXR57]

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attach mentid=603

That is acceptable for a factory unit, but flat out flimsy for performance. It's base is nothing more than a stamped steel plate connected to an equally weak thin piece of stamped steel bar. That won't last very long compared to a machined thick billet base with adjustable stops, more precise gating and usually a stronger shifter handle.

[gtofan]

Hope Kirban moves out on the GTO shifter. I'll be up at the front of the line to get one when they do....

[Lumina ss]

10mm from center to center. and 1mm or so forwand to re center the shifter. theres a plastic dome cover that covers the shifter mechanism if you hit it with a heat gun you can distort it to clear the modification. Your shifter has an extra metal piece to stop the ball popping out as has happened on some aussie cars. Personelly I run 16mm and 1mm to reduce the throw more, absolutely brilliant for fast changes. Oh yeah mines lasted 30000 miles with no problems.