Sprayed 150 shot while monitoring with EFI Live Professional, results within

[SDB]

I got it all done and sprayed 100 and then 150 shot...
I monitored the 150 shot with EFI Live Professional V6 and found out some interesting stuff...

I have the rpm switch set to shut off at 5900, and it seems to work fine, you can feel the nitrous shut off JUST before the shift...good set point for otherwise stock car...

150 shot with no timing retard hits great, but blew dipstick out of tube and thus got hot oil all over the engine compartment!

I added a Metco valvecover breather to reduce assist with pcv, and it worked! I also monitored KR closely, and found the following...

1 degree timing retard = 3.6 KR (most, ranged from .1 to 3.6)

3 degree timing retard = .6 KR (most, ranged from .1 to .6)

4 degree timing retard = .1 KR

this is in winter time, so I will monitor when it gets hot out again...

I NEVER would have thought it would take 4 degrees of timing retard on a 150 shot on an otherwise stock car (just intank Walboro 340 pump and homemade CAI)...

didn't get a chance to race anyone, but not for lack of trying! Pulls real good and gets up to 120 mph very fast.

This is all on 93 octane gas

SDB

I may dyno to check AF ratio, but I am satisfied i have it set up fairly safe right now.

[nikivee]

Typically you should remove 2 degrees of timing for every 50hp shot that you use.

[mlc]

150 shot with no timing retard hits great, but blew dipstick out of tube and thus got hot oil all over the engine compartment!

I may be all wet here but doesn't this tell you that you had excesive ring blow-by? How else can the presure build up in the crank enough to blow the dip stick out?? Seems like you better change the oil.

[SDB]

not uncommon for dipstick to go out a little under a nitrous load...not necesairly an indication that the rings are bad or anything like that....the breather took care of that problem...

the old rule of thumb is 2 degrees per 50 hp....that does not readily apply to LS1's...per most people using n20 on LS1's, it usually doesn't take any retard with 100-150 shot and then maybe 1-2 degrees past that per 50 increase...just surprised that a car with relativesly low base timing needed so much retard....I am wondering if my CAI is somehow related to this (I don't see how)...

SDB

[kick_*ss]

Post up your log,
Did you add in all the new SPARK pids EFI has? You may be able to find what is pulling.

[SDB]

dont know how to post log???

SDB

[goteegoat]

What plugs and gap are you running? Did you do any monitoring at the 100 shot?
Thanks...

[Robul]

yes what plugs are you using? mabye you should go a couple heat ranges colder.

[SDB]

never bothered monitoring the 100 shot...100 shot is for pussies!!!

I put in NGK TR6's gapped at .038, same plugs I use in my 382 stroker with 200 shot...

I will put in on the chassis dyno and see where the AF ratio is and go from there....it hits hard and has no knock now, so I don't care that much, just surprised (and so is Nitro Dave) that I needed that much timing retard...but who knows, it is just a knob on a black box, and wether it is actually 1 degree or 1/2 degree I will never know...but it worked to get rid of KR I was seeing...

SDB

[SDB]

I now have .7 KR on motor with NO timing advance, so I took a degree out...had a nitrous backfire, no real damage but it did stop the car! Had trash in the nitrous filter, which caused the motor to flood with fuel (no nitrous goin in). I will figure this out yet, and keep posting what I find....

SDB

[nox]

what kind of trash? have u checked the plugs?