18x10 43et 295 Hoosier R6 Fitment.....

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Anyone running something like this? My search turned up nothing.. I currently run 9.5" width on a 45et with 275's with room to spare.

[Underoath]

Tub it and throw some 315s back there.

[superchargedgp]

Tub it and throw some 315s back there.

word son

[Havoc]

What happened to those billet CSL's?

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Tub it and throw some 315s back there.

Nah.. too much work.

What happened to those billet CSL's?

The dip shit flaked. He's now telling me, it's gonna be a bit more before he can put something together. I other possible solutions, we shall see.

[purplenurple]

Its gonna fit, you might have a chance if the wheel is 10-15mm inboard and you do some modding to the inner fender/shock/control arm + cut q-panel lips

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Its gonna fit, you might have a chance if the wheel is 10-15mm inboard and you do some modding to the inner fender/shock/control arm + cut q-panel lips

My worry is the outside lip, mine are rolled, trimmed and cut. I'm thinking the inner should have plenty of clearance, just not sure. are you on 10"s?

[purplenurple]

My worry is the outside lip, mine are rolled, trimmed and cut. I'm thinking the inner should have plenty of clearance, just not sure. are you on 10"s?

Nope, 9.5s with a 57et.

CCW uses a 54et for the 10s. Look up flink's progress with fitting 285s on CCW 10s - his lips are cut all the way and he's done some banging on the inside - but I believe he was running a 1.5in drop in the back. Lets say you can get a 59-60et on a 10in wheel, MAYBE it could work with lips cut all the way, inner wheel well banging, shock spacing, and control arm notching - given that you arent slammed.

EDIT - Nitto NT-01s are available in 285/35/18 I think, so that could be an alternative

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Nope, 9.5s with a 57et.

CCW uses a 54et for the 10s. Look up flink's progress with fitting 285s on CCW 10s - his lips are cut all the way and he's done some banging on the inside - but I believe he was running a 1.5in drop in the back. Lets say you can get a 59-60et on a 10in wheel, MAYBE it could work with lips cut all the way, inner wheel well banging, shock spacing, and control arm notching - given that you arent slammed.

EDIT - Nitto NT-01s are available in 285/35/18 I think, so that could be an alternative

good looking out, i did eyeball the nitto.. i think the hoosier may be better though.

[r0nd3L]

That would probably hit the quarter panel lip even if grinded all the way down.

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

exactly my thought, i w onder if anyone has tried this? I may have to buy a corner and try it out. Mayber more camber will help me get away with it.

[redline24]

It would be nice to be able to run some fat tires on the back.

[r0nd3L]

exactly my thought, i w onder if anyone has tried this? I may have to buy a corner and try it out. Mayber more camber will help me get away with it.

You could also look into rear C5Z wheels. They're 18x10.5" ET58, so you can use an wheel adapter/spacer to get exact offset that you need.

[EDISKRAD EHT]

That would probably hit the quarter panel lip even if grinded all the way down.

X2....

[Havoc]

exactly my thought, i w onder if anyone has tried this? I may have to buy a corner and try it out. Mayber more camber will help me get away with it.

Can't you make this determination based on what you already have? The wheel (the actual rim) in question is going to stick out roughly 5/16"- 3/8" more than your 9.5" ET45 CSL's, and on top of that you're going to mount a tire that's almost 1/2" wider (side to side) than your 275's.

So you'll have a wheel/tire combo that's positioned about 3/4" closer to the lip and you'll probably want at least another 1/4" (or more) for safe clearance... Do your tires currently have at least 1" of clearance at the closest contact point?

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

You could also look into rear C5Z wheels. They're 18x10.5" ET58, so you can use an wheel adapter/spacer to get exact offset that you need.

Sounds good, but 10.5 sounds like it wont fit even with a spacer.. Have you seen that done? I don't care much about the wheel style as long as it's fairly light.

Can't you make this determination based on what you already have? The wheel (the actual rim) in question is going to stick out roughly 5/16"- 3/8" more than your 9.5" ET45 CSL's, and on top of that you're going to mount a tire that's almost 1/2" wider (side to side) than your 275's.

So you'll have a wheel/tire combo that's positioned about 3/4" closer to the lip and you'll probably want at least another 1/4" (or more) for safe clearance... Do your tires currently have at least 1" of clearance at the closest contact point?

That's the rough estimate i made in my mind, I figured no more than 3/8 to 1/2" on the outside. The inner, we can bang up a bit if needed... I may just have to do the 285 nt01 rather that the hoosier. I need to measure both widths and get a solid idea.

I would shave the wheels i'm looking at but they are about 18.7 lbs for a 18x10 and there appears to be no more than 2-3 mills max to be removed. I don't need any issues on the road course.

[Havoc]

That's the rough estimate i made in my mind, I figured no more than 3/8 to 1/2" on the outside. The inner, we can bang up a bit if needed... I may just have to do the 285 nt01 rather that the hoosier. I need to measure both widths and get a solid idea.

I would shave the wheels i'm looking at but they are about 18.7 lbs for a 18x10 and there appears to be no more than 2-3 mills max to be removed. I don't need any issues on the road course.

The results didn't end well for the last guy (Magnified) I remember trying to fit 295's (Toyo Proxes) on ET45 wheels, and those were 9.5". IIRC his attempt differed from your plans in that he went the raise spring or drag bag route, and supposedly his lips were rolled completely flat.

Regardless, those tires were up for sale a couple weeks later... with a few gouges in the sidewalls! :eek:

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

The results didn't end well for the last guy (Magnified) I remember trying to fit 295's (Toyo Proxes) on ET45 wheels, and those were 9.5". IIRC his attempt differed from your plans in that he went the raise spring or drag bag route, and supposedly his lips were rolled completely flat.

Regardless, those tires were up for sale a couple weeks later... with a few gouges in the sidewalls! :eek:

great... I guess I'll try the 285 route as a start and try milling off at least 3 mills if i can. Better yet, Maybe I can get hre to do their job and call me back in regards to the monoblock. Their cs is so crappy the last few years....

[purplenurple]

CCW Corsair series?

[Havoc]

great... I guess I'll try the 285 route as a start and try milling off at least 3 mills if i can. Better yet, Maybe I can get hre to do their job and call me back in regards to the monoblock. Their cs is so crappy the last few years....

Last I checked (a couple weeks ago), they have new forgings to accommodate a wider range of offsets but after checking with their engineer can't properly fit a GTO even though they, "would love to do it if possible" lol

Anyway, after further correspondence I concluded 1) they don't really know what actually fits a GTO, 2) they could likely do a front fitment for me since they already make a 19x8.5" ET38 for the Audi R8. The rear, for my app anyway, is unfortunately a no-go because they have nothing in the ET75 range. That said, I still believe they could fit a normal GTO with 10's and offsets in the mid 50's because they already have a couple applications in that range... I'll shoot 'em an email and ask!

btw... you plan on racing with P40's? Don't know if it's true or not but read in other forums those specific wheels are banned at some tracks due to a few failures.:ohnoes:

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

CCW Corsair series?

I'll check.

Last I checked (a couple weeks ago), they have new forgings to accommodate a wider range of offsets but after checking with their engineer can't properly fit a GTO even though they, "would love to do it if possible" lol

Anyway, after further correspondence I concluded 1) they don't really know what actually fits a GTO, 2) they could likely do a front fitment for me since they already make a 19x8.5" ET38 for the Audi R8. The rear, for my app anyway, is unfortunately a no-go because they have nothing in the ET75 range. That said, I still believe they could fit a normal GTO with 10's and offsets in the mid 50's because they already have a couple applications in that range... I'll shoot 'em an email and ask!

btw... you plan on racing with P40's? Don't know if it's true or not but read in other forums those specific wheels are banned at some tracks due to a few failures.:ohnoes:

It sounded as if they don't know what's up.. As you indicated, it does sound as if they have something close, just the hub being off.

I did hear about a failure or two, but thought it was in their 3 piece line. That would be a big no no...

We shall see, I need to get this car up to speed for some road course work.

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

CCW Corsair series?

Good looking out, I kind of gave up on ccw but that's possible. I may look to fiske too.

[GTO nate]

man Fiske wheels are so expensive. I live in Wa where they are made and we don't even get discounts, jk. I found some pretty cool wheels that are called D-force, they make an 18x9 for the front, and a 18x10 for the rear, the 10's only weigh 18.8lbs, they are a classic five star design. I dont recall the offsets, but I pretty sure they would fit, maybe a little milling for the rears, and I belive if you got coil overs in front the 9's will clear too. check em out. Oh yeah and they are only $300 a wheel!!! and are flow formed, so they should be strong too.

[GTO nate]

just went to there web site http://dforcewheels.com/, then went to the distributors site, I went to the one that starts with a T, the 18x10's have a et43 and the 9's a et41, hope this helps. I have really been considering some of these for track days and drift events. I think 18" tires are slightly more afordable. If I were to get some I would get them powdercoated some obnoxious color, so they would stand out at the track. oooo... neon green wheels on a black car, or the same red as the interior, maybe bright white......

[flink]

I don't need any issues on the road course.

Are these track-only tires?

If so, just let them poke outside the fenders and go as wide as you like.
I did that with the fronts once and it worked perfectly OK. I set the ride height
and packed the bumpstops so that I had a bit over 20mm bump travel.

Member "GTO Fan"'s C5Z is like that too - both the front and rear tires
poke a good inch outside the fenders.

I busted a gut to fit the 275's up front, but there wasn't a lot of point to it really. I just did it because I wanted to :)

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

man Fiske wheels are so expensive. I live in Wa where they are made and we don't even get discounts, jk. I found some pretty cool wheels that are called D-force, they make an 18x9 for the front, and a 18x10 for the rear, the 10's only weigh 18.8lbs, they are a classic five star design. I dont recall the offsets, but I pretty sure they would fit, maybe a little milling for the rears, and I belive if you got coil overs in front the 9's will clear too. check em out. Oh yeah and they are only $300 a wheel!!! and are flow formed, so they should be strong too.

Those are the ones I'm considering, bitching wheels, huh?

Are these track-only tires?

If so, just let them poke outside the fenders and go as wide as you like.
I did that with the fronts once and it worked perfectly OK. I set the ride height
and packed the bumpstops so that I had a bit over 20mm bump travel.

Member "GTO Fan"'s C5Z is like that too - both the front and rear tires
poke a good inch outside the fenders.

I busted a gut to fit the 275's up front, but there wasn't a lot of point to it really. I just did it because I wanted to :)

Yup, my intentions are a wheel/tire set for the track... I have plenty of room up front with my coilovers, the tt air pressure lines are what's in the way. I have to have those made oval to clear the wheel, I've already had the area behind the coilover ovaled to clear my endlinks. The whiteline were interfering badly. The new pedders chrome moly deals have a bit more clearance.

So on your 275's up front, how close do you come to the fenders? Do you have enough travel on bumpy roads?

Whose tires have you been running?

[flink]

Yup, my intentions are a wheel/tire set for the track...

Poke them out! It works well.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/track-days/thunderhill-april-09/p4030550.jpg

So on your 275's up front, how close do you come to the fenders? Do you have enough travel on bumpy roads?

Whose tires have you been running?

erm, it's all splattered over this thread:
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3073 21

It comes close to the fenders on the inside. There's heaps of room on the outside:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/track-days/thunderhill-may-09/p5151343.jpg

I could do 285s all round no probs.

With the old poking-out setup I had about 20mm bump travel. That's not really enough for street but
was OK for track. The fenders were taped up to detect contact and there was none.

Tires are 275/40R17 Hoosier Grand Am Cup takeoffs. They're OK on warm
days, fairly sucky if it's cold and cloudy. A pretty good deal at $70 each from
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/subcategory_d etail.asp?modelcode=E46&subcat_id=181

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Poke them out! It works well.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/track-days/thunderhill-april-09/p4030550.jpg



erm, it's all splattered over this thread:
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3073 21

It comes close to the fenders on the inside. There's heaps of room on the outside:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/track-days/thunderhill-may-09/p5151343.jpg

I could do 285s all round no probs.

With the old poking-out setup I had about 20mm bump travel. That's not really enough for street but
was OK for track. The fenders were taped up to detect contact and there was none.

Tires are 275/40R17 Hoosier Grand Am Cup takeoffs. They're OK on warm
days, fairly sucky if it's cold and cloudy. A pretty good deal at $70 each from
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/subcategory_d etail.asp?modelcode=E46&subcat_id=181

Looks good, though the idea of the tire sticking out scares me a bit. Thanks for the links, the tires seem to be a good deal. What kind of usage are you getting out of them? I'm debating on a bra too, though i may decide to go with a clear 3m deal.

[flink]

Looks good, though the idea of the tire sticking out scares me a bit.

Yup. I removed the spring, jacked the control arm until the full weight of that corner was
compressing the bumpstop, took various measurements then worked out
how much bumpstop packing was needed to fully protect the fenders.

Then I packed the bumpstops by that amount and again jacked the control arm to
verify that the tire wouldn't hit the fender.

No probs. There is also of course a risk of throwing stones at yourself.

Thanks for the links, the tires seem to be a good deal. What kind of usage are you getting out of them?

Two days so far. I expect six or more out of them. They're a bit harder
than dot r-comps. I think.

I'm debating on a bra too, though i may decide to go with a clear 3m deal.

Yes. Lots of vette guys do temp bras for track days using mildly sticky
shelf lining plastic from Office Works and such things. Others of course use
a couple of rolls of painters tape, but it looks cheesy and has to be overlapped
correctly so it doesn't blow off.

[MoNsTeR]

That 2nd picture looks beastly with the wide tires up front..

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Yup. I removed the spring, jacked the control arm until the full weight of that corner was
compressing the bumpstop, took various measurements then worked out
how much bumpstop packing was needed to fully protect the fenders.

Then I packed the bumpstops by that amount and again jacked the control arm to
verify that the tire wouldn't hit the fender.

No probs. There is also of course a risk of throwing stones at yourself.



Two days so far. I expect six or more out of them. They're a bit harder
than dot r-comps. I think.



Yes. Lots of vette guys do temp bras for track days using mildly sticky
shelf lining plastic from Office Works and such things. Others of course use
a couple of rolls of painters tape, but it looks cheesy and has to be overlapped
correctly so it doesn't blow off.

Good deal, i'll get to work, see you at one of the upcoming events..

[flink]

That 2nd picture looks beastly with the wide tires up front..

The 17x9.5" wheels look really wide with no tire on them:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/mods/275s/p2129996.jpg

And they're still pleasingly plump once you attach a tire and a car to them:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/mods/275s/p4141142.jpg

[flink]

Good deal

What sort of wheels were you thinking of?

Vette wheels seem a really good option for us. I got those four Z06
speedlines for $500 the lot, and at 19.2 lbs, they're really quite light.
I think some of the vette OE 18" wheels are pretty light too, and I bet
there are lots sitting around unused, replaced by fancier wheels.

If you're thinking of going with 10" to 12" wheels then the vette wheels would need
adapters to push them out a bit more, I guess. For my application the corvette
offsets were damn near perfect. Maybe 3-4mm less offset would have
been better.

i'll get to work, see you at one of the upcoming events..

That would be nice ;)

I don't know how many track days you've done - I think it's "not many". If
so, I'd recommend against splurging on wheels/tyres at this stage, really.
Dig out your OE wheels and put some nt-01's on them. They're great tires.
That setup will be good for 6 or 8 track days, which is probably over a year's worth.

After that you may well decide that a turboed GTO simply isn't an appropriate
car for use on road courses :( Because it isn't, really. It's fun, but the consumable
costs are high and it's pretty hard on the car.

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

What sort of wheels were you thinking of?

Vette wheels seem a really good option for us. I got those four Z06
speedlines for $500 the lot, and at 19.2 lbs, they're really quite light.
I think some of the vette OE 18" wheels are pretty light too, and I bet
there are lots sitting around unused, replaced by fancier wheels.

If you're thinking of going with 10" to 12" wheels then the vette wheels would need
adapters to push them out a bit more, I guess. For my application the corvette
offsets were damn near perfect. Maybe 3-4mm less offset would have
been better.



That would be nice ;)

I don't know how many track days you've done - I think it's "not many". If
so, I'd recommend against splurging on wheels/tyres at this stage, really.
Dig out your OE wheels and put some nt-01's on them. They're great tires.
That setup will be good for 6 or 8 track days, which is probably over a year's worth.

After that you may well decide that a turboed GTO simply isn't an appropriate
car for use on road courses :( Because it isn't, really. It's fun, but the consumable
costs are high and it's pretty hard on the car.

I was thinking d-force wheels that are made for bmw. They are about 18 lbs.

The turbo might be a little much, especially in 1st and 2nd gear and yes, can be costly too... I will do some track days for fun, probably not more than two or three a year. It will be the first time my GTO will see the track.

Oh my oe wheels have been gone for a while...

I'll look out for you, thanks again for the advice.

[flink]

The turbo might be a little much, especially in 1st and 2nd gear

It's the heat which will get you. On my puny headers+intake+tune engine I was getting
into overheating just from having four brake duct intakes inside the grille. Your engine
burns gas at perhaps 1.5x the rate of mine and perhaps has an intercooler stuffed
in the way too. I don't think the car has enough cooling to get rid of your additional
waste heat generation.

and yes, can be costly too

I was more thinking of brakes, actually. But check out my ht-10 thread - I've
gone from one set of pads per day up to at least five days per set. Mainly by
using the PFC97's.

Rotor cost isn't so bad as long as you're using good rotors. Ducting will help
here too and is very cheap - under $200.

Tires: maybe $150/day if you're buying new ones (avoid this!)

The Lotus/Miata/etc guys can go one or two seasons on a set of pads/rotors and tires. Sigh.

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

It's the heat which will get you. On my puny headers+intake+tune engine I was getting
into overheating just from having four brake duct intakes inside the grille. Your engine
burns gas at perhaps 1.5x the rate of mine and perhaps has an intercooler stuffed
in the way too. I don't think the car has enough cooling to get rid of your additional
waste heat generation.



I was more thinking of brakes, actually. But check out my ht-10 thread - I've
gone from one set of pads per day up to at least five days per set. Mainly by
using the PFC97's.

Rotor cost isn't so bad as long as you're using good rotors. Ducting will help
here too and is very cheap - under $200.

Tires: maybe $150/day if you're buying new ones (avoid this!)

The Lotus/Miata/etc guys can go one or two seasons on a set of pads/rotors and tires. Sigh.

I hope the cooling works out.. It runs cool here on the hottest days with the a/c blowing. The redline water wetter dropped temps about 7-10 degrees. The exhaust has a true (nasa type) coating on it, it kept my intake temps 15-30 degrees cooler than a similar aps car with jet hot type coating, I hope that helps out at the track too.. Worst case scenario, I end up getting a rmr front end which shovels air into the front.

My brakes have way more heat capacity than I know what to do with, I hope that stays the same on the track. I am currently doing some testing for ebc and will run yellows at some point. I will break these new rotors in with Mintex extreme pads that are rated 0-1300 degrees. I have heard nothing but praise on the Mintex pads and will try to drive these on the street and track. I'll try a few others out. The PFC stuff has allways been good to me, I don't know that I want to switch pads out at the track if i don't have to. It sounds like you have found a nice compromise. I don't know that I will need ducting, what do you think?

Tires may get pricey... I will want a dot deal so the cops don't mess with me.

Yeah, the small car crowd have it made...

[flink]

I hope the cooling works out.. It runs cool here on the hottest days with the a/c blowing. The redline water wetter dropped temps about 7-10 degrees. The exhaust has a true (nasa type) coating on it, it kept my intake temps 15-30 degrees cooler than a similar aps car with jet hot type coating, I hope that helps out at the track too.. Worst case scenario, I end up getting a rmr front end which shovels air into the front.

hm. Thing is, you'll be burning maybe eight gallons/hour on the track. Nearly four gallons
in a session. That's simply way more joules/sec than anything that the car has
ever done. Pretty much all that energy needs to be dumped into the engine bay
airflow and the brake rotors.

My brakes have way more heat capacity than I know what to do with, I hope that stays the same on the track.

Brake heat approximately equals engine power ;)

I am currently doing some testing for ebc and will run yellows at some point. I will break these new rotors in with Mintex extreme pads that are rated 0-1300 degrees.

I think 1300F is marginal. If my temperature-indicating paint is to be believed (and
I have doubts) then even with dual ducts up front, I'm still hitting 1500F on both
the front and rear rotors.

But try it and see. If the pads overheat then they'll wear fast - nothing terrible
will happen.

I have heard nothing but praise on the Mintex pads and will try to drive these on the street and track. I'll try a few others out. The PFC stuff has allways been good to me, I don't know that I want to switch pads out at the track if i don't have to. It sounds like you have found a nice compromise.

All the race pads I've used have been acceptable on the street. The hawks
are pretty sucky when cold, but they do stop the car. The PFC97's are by far
the best - they feel just like street pads when cold.

They're rated to 2000F too.

I don't know that I will need ducting, what do you think?

It's good insurance, I think. it will reduce peak temperatures and it's the
peak temps which lead to reduced pad lifetimes, increased rotor wear, cracked
rotors and boiled fluid.

Unfortunately the quantum ducting can't be left on all the time - it gets mangled
a bit at full steering lock and won't last. But it's only a 15 minute install.

Tires may get pricey... I will want a dot deal so the cops don't mess with me.

Well. With a dot-R, the tire will have no tread left on it for the second half of its
life, maybe longer. I drove to the track on the nt01's maybe five times, but for the last
couple of events the tires had no tread left at all. After that I carried them in the
rear seat and drove on the CCWs with street tires.

Perhaps something like the Azenis RT-615 would be a decent compromise. They'll
last longer and they stick pretty well.

Changing wheels at the track is a bit of a pain. Mainly just getting the things in and
out of the rear seat, bagging and unbagging them, etc. I should buy a cordless impact
wrench sometime..

You'll need at least -3* camber front, -2* rear to avoid chewing through tires. -3.75
and -3 seems about right for my roll stiffness, which is high.

Things I do when I get to the track:

- unload car (I carry about 400lbs of stuff!)

- remove front plate (makes a large difference to ECT's!)

- stick vinyl onto headlights

- swap wheels

- install camera

- set tire pressures

That's about the minimum possible, but it takes a good 45 minutes for some reason.
I tried to talk the wife info getting an f350 crewcab but she didn't seem interested ;)

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

hm. Thing is, you'll be burning maybe eight gallons/hour on the track. Nearly four gallons
in a session. That's simply way more joules/sec than anything that the car has
ever done. Pretty much all that energy needs to be dumped into the engine bay
airflow and the brake rotors.



Brake heat approximately equals engine power ;)



I think 1300F is marginal. If my temperature-indicating paint is to be believed (and
I have doubts) then even with dual ducts up front, I'm still hitting 1500F on both
the front and rear rotors.

But try it and see. If the pads overheat then they'll wear fast - nothing terrible
will happen.



All the race pads I've used have been acceptable on the street. The hawks
are pretty sucky when cold, but they do stop the car. The PFC97's are by far
the best - they feel just like street pads when cold.

They're rated to 2000F too.



It's good insurance, I think. it will reduce peak temperatures and it's the
peak temps which lead to reduced pad lifetimes, increased rotor wear, cracked
rotors and boiled fluid.

Unfortunately the quantum ducting can't be left on all the time - it gets mangled
a bit at full steering lock and won't last. But it's only a 15 minute install.



Well. With a dot-R, the tire will have no tread left on it for the second half of its
life, maybe longer. I drove to the track on the nt01's maybe five times, but for the last
couple of events the tires had no tread left at all. After that I carried them in the
rear seat and drove on the CCWs with street tires.

Perhaps something like the Azenis RT-615 would be a decent compromise. They'll
last longer and they stick pretty well.

Changing wheels at the track is a bit of a pain. Mainly just getting the things in and
out of the rear seat, bagging and unbagging them, etc. I should buy a cordless impact
wrench sometime..

You'll need at least -3* camber front, -2* rear to avoid chewing through tires. -3.75
and -3 seems about right for my roll stiffness, which is high.

Things I do when I get to the track:

- unload car (I carry about 400lbs of stuff!)

- remove front plate (makes a large difference to ECT's!)

- stick vinyl onto headlights

- swap wheels

- install camera

- set tire pressures

That's about the minimum possible, but it takes a good 45 minutes for some reason.
I tried to talk the wife info getting an f350 crewcab but she didn't seem interested ;)

I guess we'll see what exactly i end up doing... It's funny you mention the temp paint, I have not been able to burn off the green and i beat the crap out of the brakes... Your rear brakes are stock, correct? I wonder if the bigger rears i have will help keep the temps down.. If i can't burn the green paint off these dba rotors, i'm gonna be wondering what tha heck.

The dms coilovers i have, have oval inserts in different sizes for different ranges in camber, I should easily be able to hit 3.5- of camber. If i leave it a 1-, i'm sure the tires wont last too long...

It's sounds like you've got it down and have your regimen in check. You might as well get a track dedicated goat... haha.

[flink]

I guess we'll see what exactly i end up doing... It's funny you mention the temp paint, I have not been able to burn off the green and i beat the crap out of the brakes...

Ten 100mph->40mph stops in ninety seconds will do it ;)

Your rear brakes are stock, correct?

Yup. Presently using EBC yellow pads there.

You might as well get a track dedicated goat... haha.

Well yeah. After I've rolled it in #8 at thunderhill I'll kick it straight, gut it,
cage it and buy a truck&trailer. It's all in the plan :)

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

lol.. sounds like u can't wait.

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Well, confirmed with hre, their monoblock is not an option.

[Havoc]

Well, confirmed with hre, their monoblock is not an option.


Did they happen to give you a specific reason? I had to drag it out of them! lol

[MoNsTeR]

The 17x9.5" wheels look really wide with no tire on them:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/mods/275s/p2129996.jpg

And they're still pleasingly plump once you attach a tire and a car to them:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/flink-gto/mods/275s/p4141142.jpg

Good work man,That setup looks good..And the ccw's look :hbang:

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

Did they happen to give you a specific reason? I had to drag it out of them! lol

They told me that the rear hub area would be too thin if they machined it for the deep et we require. They just don't have the correct center for us and would not really look into it unless we had 100 sold. They indicated that the front could be done.

[Havoc]

They told me that the rear hub area would be too thin if they machined it for the deep et we require. They just don't have the correct center for us and would not really look into it unless we had 100 sold. They indicated that the front could be done.

Yep! That's about the size of it.... Here's their width and offset range for Monobloks:

P-Platform

8.5H 22-60

9.0L -10-+32

10.0L 0-45

10.5L 8-42

11.0L(nb) 15-58

11.0L(wb) 15-48

Pcd range 5/120 to 5/130

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

we need an alternative

[VooDoo]

we need an alternative

I can get ROH wheels made to ANY offset and size.

http://www.oz8.org/gallery/albums/Wheels/210120090 73_G.sized.jpg

Oh and they are genuine ROH not the chinese fakes from others...

Tell me what size and offset and ill get you a price from ROH direct.

OH and i have some R6 Hoosiers here of a porsche cup car. I can put them up in the wheel well and take some pic's of the areas where they will hit if that helps

[2QWK4RU 06 GOAT]

I can get ROH wheels made to ANY offset and size.

http://www.oz8.org/gallery/albums/Wheels/210120090 73_G.sized.jpg

Oh and they are genuine ROH not the chinese fakes from others...

Tell me what size and offset and ill get you a price from ROH direct.

OH and i have some R6 Hoosiers here of a porsche cup car. I can put them up in the wheel well and take some pic's of the areas where they will hit if that helps

Hey bud, those are nice wheels, the thing is, I don't think they can get a 18" wheel down to 19 lbs or so... If they can, I'm sold. I'm thinking 18x10 with a 53 et.