View Full Version : Is it hard to change the oil?
speed_demon_freak
01-08-2004, 09:22 PM
I just crawled under my car to look for the drain plug and the filter. There is a HUGH metal plate protecting the engine. It looks like you have to remove the metal plate to get to the filter and the drain plug.I will try and take some pics of it to show you all what im talking about.
http://free.one.picturehost.co.uk/DSC00050%20%28Sm all%29.JPG
After looking at this pic, I hope its not to hard to do.
http://www.fast-autos.net/pontiac/04gto22.jpg
ls1builder
01-08-2004, 09:36 PM
Why would you think it would be hard to change the oil?
Jack it up, remove the drain plug, lower the car a bit, let it drain, reinstall the drain plug, pull the filter, oil the gasket..new filter on, fill with oil, start it and check for leaks, turn it off and check the level.
speed_demon_freak
01-08-2004, 09:38 PM
Why would you think it would be hard to change the oil?
Jack it up, remove the drain plug, lower the car a bit, let it drain, reinstall the drain plug, pull the filter, oil the gasket..new filter on, fill with oil, start it and check for leaks, turn it off and check the level.
Can I get under the car to change the oil since ive never changed the oil on a LS1 engine before.
CMNTMXR57
01-09-2004, 04:41 AM
You'll have to drive it up on ramps or jack it up. But once you're under there, what's nice with the LS1 is you can drain the oil pan and remove the oil filter at the same time and let them drain as the oil filter is right next to the pan.
The only time it may become a tight fit is if you're running a set of long tube headers. But then, it's just a matter of being more careful.
mistermike
01-09-2004, 04:49 AM
Perhaps he was referring to the cover/shroud on the underbody
GTO_Again
01-09-2004, 07:51 AM
Thought this was carved into stone -
LS1 OIL CHANGE
Vehicle must be level. (VERY IMPORTANT.) The butterfly oil pan must be level for all the oil to drain.
Allow a MINIMUM OF 7 MINUTES for the oil to drain fully after the oil filter and oil drain plug have been removed. There are oil galleries in the LS1 that need time to drain fully.
FILL filter with oil BEFORE screwing onto engine block
Allow a MINIMUM OF 3 MINUTES for the new oil to fully fill the engine oil pan / sump before starting the engine.
speed_demon_freak
01-09-2004, 08:21 AM
Perhaps he was referring to the cover/shroud on the underbody
Thats what i'm talking about. Can I lay on my back in front of the car and reach the filter and the plug? I dont want to use ramps or jack up the car because it causes oil to run away from the plug leaving oil trapped in the pan.
But since I've never changed the oil before on the LS1 engine, I wanted to know where the plug and filter were.
hada64
01-09-2004, 09:08 AM
Thats what i'm talking about. Can I lay on my back in front of the car and reach the filter and the plug? I dont want to use ramps or jack up the car because it causes oil to run away from the plug leaving oil trapped in the pan.
But since I've never changed the oil before on the LS1 engine, I wanted to know where the plug and filter were.
I thought the GTO had a different pan/sump than the Fbody and Corvette, so draining may be a bit different. Depends on exactly where is the plug. Picking front of car up may be and advantage. ( I don't know but I understood different pan.)
Tails
01-09-2004, 09:58 AM
Since it has started to cost to get rid of the old oil I just drive over the oil changer pit at the dealers and have them do it. It only costs a $5-$10 more then doing it myself.
:drink: :drink:
CMNTMXR57
01-09-2004, 10:46 AM
The oil pan on the LS1 in the GTO is backwards. On the F-Body's the pan was different than the Vette in that the Vette has "wings" on it that act as a motor mount. But the drain plug was on the driver's side rear corner of the pan. So having it on an angle doesn't hurt anything.
Depending on where the drain plug is, the car being level may be important. Either way, for those like me who are big, I just can't crawl underneath it and need to lift it somehow.
ls1builder
01-09-2004, 11:20 AM
[QUOTE=CMNTMXR57] On the F-Body's the pan was different than the Vette in that the Vette has "wings" on it that act as a motor mount.
The vette's oil pandoes NOT act as a motor mount. The wings are there to provide capacity in the pan because the engine in so low in the chassis a traditional pan would hang lower than the chassis. :)
CMNTMXR57
01-09-2004, 11:26 AM
And it acts as a mount. THose wings attach to something, do they not?
ls1builder
01-09-2004, 11:39 AM
And it acts as a mount. THose wings attach to something, do they not?
Nope. :)
speed_demon_freak
01-09-2004, 01:32 PM
It will be a pain in the ass!!!
extremegto
01-09-2004, 02:46 PM
You will have to remove that plate to get to the filter and plug. It has four bolts holding it on. Oh by the way it is heavy as hell......
You don't want to drive the front on ramps to change the oil. The plug is on the passenger side and towards the front of the motor. The sump is also at the front not the back like on the f-bodies. If you want to see something cool, pull down the front trim panel in the trunk.. Look at the reinforcment for the fuel tank.. Pretty solid....
There is nothing behind that close out on the drivers side under the rear bumper. So the first thing I'm going to do is run one of the exhaust pipes out the other side. :D
There is no room in the front for a wider tire unless it sticks out the fender. The tire is about 1/2" away from the strut.
Also, here is a little tid bit for you.. Try to find the fuel filter... :D :D :D
Its in the fuel tank.. :sneaky: But the fuel tank doesnt' look that hard to pull...
speed_demon_freak
01-09-2004, 02:49 PM
You will have to remove that plate to get to the filter and plug. It has four bolts holding it on. Oh by the way it is heavy as hell......
You don't want to drive the front on ramps to change the oil. The plug is on the passenger side and towards the front of the motor. The sump is also at the front not the back like on the f-bodies. If you want to see something cool, pull down the front trim panel in the trunk.. Look at the reinforcment for the fuel tank.. Pretty solid....
There is nothing behind that close out on the drivers side under the rear bumper. So the first thing I'm going to do is run one of the exhaust pipes out the other side. :D
There is no room in the front for a wider tire unless it sticks out the fender. The tire is about 1/2" away from the strut.
Also, here is a little tid bit for you.. Try to find the fuel filter... :D :D :D
Its in the fuel tank.. :sneaky: But the fuel tank doesnt' look that hard to pull...
Thanks for the info.
extremegto
01-09-2004, 03:00 PM
no problem.
CMNTMXR57
01-09-2004, 03:41 PM
The fuel filter in the tank is becoming more common. Dodge trucks have been doing it for awhile now, Nissan does it, and now even some GM vehicles do it.
In the case of some passenger cars I've replaced like Nissan's, if you pull the bottom of the seat there is an access cover to get to it. In the case of the GTO, I wonder of there is something the same if you remove the seat backs.
speed_demon_freak
01-09-2004, 08:01 PM
After I change the oil after 500 miles, should I change it again at 1000 miles or can I got the full 3000 miles?
Also I bought a case of 5W30 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil.
Thanks
CMNTMXR57
01-09-2004, 09:25 PM
I would, but it's not necessary.
I wouldn't go full synthetic until you get about 5,000 - 6,000 miles as that's when the LS1 fully "loosens" up. Until that point, I'd run a regular "dino" oil.
speed_demon_freak
01-09-2004, 10:02 PM
I would, but it's not necessary.
I wouldn't go full synthetic until you get about 5,000 - 6,000 miles as that's when the LS1 fully "loosens" up. Until that point, I'd run a regular "dino" oil.
IS your name cement mixer 57?
You know your little signature pics dont work.
CMNTMXR57
01-09-2004, 10:13 PM
Yes that is my screen name and DY is aware of the pictures. He has to relocate where the pics are on the server.
hada64
01-10-2004, 05:19 AM
That protective plate under the front of the car was the subject of a lot of posts back in October I think. Folks concerned about the weight when the curb weight numbers, and performance, came up. Supposedly there as protection from the rough Aussie roads. 15 pounds was mentioned by one of the guys down under though higher rumors floated around and several suggested it was coming off asap.
extremegto
01-10-2004, 06:39 AM
I'm not sure how heavy it is, But I would say at least 15lbs.
hada64
01-10-2004, 07:26 AM
I'm not sure how heavy it is, But I would say at least 15lbs.
It's presence may also prevent the use of the longer truck filter suggested previously and the subject of some debate. ;)
You can just see the filter through the opening on that photo at the top of the thread. Depends how much longer the truck filter is and if it would interfer with the plate, assuming plate still in place. CMNT suggested might hang low enough to be hit (if plate not in place).
CMNTMXR57
01-10-2004, 08:24 AM
I bet you could use the longer filter with that shield in place. IN which case it would also be protected still.
If that shield weighs 15 or more pounds, it's getting removed. I was one of those "pro-removal" people in those threads.
Since mine will only get driven on nice days and on nice roads, I don't need it's protection. The only other matter is if it's a structural piece. Judging by the bolts used to secure it (it looks like 10mm), I don't think it is.
hada64
01-10-2004, 10:28 AM
I bet you could use the longer filter with that shield in place. IN which case it would also be protected still.
If that shield weighs 15 or more pounds, it's getting removed. I was one of those "pro-removal" people in those threads.
Since mine will only get driven on nice days and on nice roads, I don't need it's protection. The only other matter is if it's a structural piece. Judging by the bolts used to secure it (it looks like 10mm), I don't think it is.
Yes, and it looks sort of like it has some rubber isolators on it for vibration so really unlikely adds any structural support.
mistermike
01-10-2004, 01:17 PM
It keeps Gamma Rays reflected off the road from affecting your Precious Bodily Fluids. I can get rid of those aluminum foil Depends as long as the Shield is in place. :sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky:
DANSLS1
01-10-2004, 01:25 PM
I'm thinking it might be a mount for the 'traffic eliminator' rocket launcher they are planning on introducing next year.
Tails
01-10-2004, 03:32 PM
Warning...Warning.....Warning. You are close to loosing it completely!!!!
:drink: :drink:
DANSLS1
01-10-2004, 04:28 PM
In some ways I lost it completely LONG before I ever ordered the GTO...
Steve T
01-21-2004, 05:28 AM
From earlier message:
"I wouldn't go full synthetic until you get about 5,000 - 6,000 miles as that's when the LS1 fully "loosens" up. Until that point, I'd run a regular "dino" oil."
All Vettes (LS1 and LS6) are shipped with Mobil 1. I would think that going to synthetic would not be a problem at any mileage.
capra2d
01-22-2004, 07:23 AM
Other than changing the oil by oneself, what are the chances of getting the service techs, either at the dealership or independent "quick-lube" establishments, to allow the 7-minute drain and 3-minute oil pan fill? And then, fill the filter with oil?! What are others' experiences?
tiggerfan
01-22-2004, 08:25 AM
I think the dealership is a LOT more likely to let it go then a quick lube place. At the dealer the guy goes out back and grabs a smoke or a soda while it drains. Also I think the Pontiac guys will be more in awe of keeping this thing performing then Jiffy Lube will.
tterbo
01-22-2004, 09:22 AM
The brace doesn't seem to provide anything more than oil pan protection. It is made from 3/16" plate and weighed 15 lbs. exactly on a calibrated postal scale. I think that if it were a structural piece, the bolts would be larger and there would be more of them. Also, it looks as if the brace is an afterthought. The threaded holes in the k-member are inserts, not welded nuts like all the others.
rawlito
01-22-2004, 10:54 AM
I would, but it's not necessary.
I wouldn't go full synthetic until you get about 5,000 - 6,000 miles as that's when the LS1 fully "loosens" up. Until that point, I'd run a regular "dino" oil.
Why cant you use fully synthetic,all the 02 ls1 can with mobil 1 stock.
CMNTMXR57
01-22-2004, 11:25 AM
The Vette's came with Mobil 1 stock. Everything else DID NOT.
Vette LS1's are pre-broken in on the assembly line, Everything else using an LS1 IS NOT!
During break in there is SOME wear that you want to happen as well as rings setting that is important to longevity. A Dino oil allows this moreso than a synthetic. Synthetic's are so slick and able to work into the smallest cracks and crevices that it is counterproductive during this time.
On these particular motors (this isn't a general engine statement), they don't fully seem to loosen up and get their strongest until 5- 6k is on the odometer.
GTO_Again
01-22-2004, 12:33 PM
Anyone know what kind of oil comes in the 2004 GTO
from the factory ?
Thanks
mistermike
01-22-2004, 04:59 PM
Anyone know what kind of oil comes in the 2004 GTO
from the factory ?
Thanks
Regular dino oil, no synthetic. Techs at dealer told me to leave it in for 500 miles when I asked them to change it at 20. This leads me to believe it might have a break in additive.
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