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b727pic
04-13-2006, 04:38 PM
For discussion purposes here is my proposed fuel system.

1. replace existing module with a MU1312. this module has the fuel feed and return on top. or simply mod the existing top with a bulkhead fitting.
2. Utilize existing fuel feed line as new fuel return line. "T" off inside tank to feed directly into fuel bucket assy. any overflow will simply feed the tank as well.
3. OEM tank will have a bung welded in for a new sump point. Internal baffling may be required.
4. Electric in line pump ( I chose an SX-Performance) fed by Kenne Bell BAP direct feed 10GA wire to alternator / Batt. 3PSI pressure sw. activate a relay to energize the pump. This pump will flow upwards of 115 GPH @ 60PSi with 16 DCV feed.
5. Check valves utilized to prevent back flow from operational pump.
6. a Boost reference fuel pressure regulator added on the return side of the rail.

I envision the OEM pump operating the bulk of the time, however when into boost the 3psi KB BAP switch will activate the in line pump to act as a booster. My thought is that this should offer plenty of fuel when needed as well as offer good service life from both pumps. Should be fairly quiet as well, since by 3PSI the ole FI 408 should be drowning out whatever noise the new electric pump will be making.

So lets hear your thoughts / improvement idea's

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/conibell/Fue l%20System/GTOfuelsystem.jpg




TrakDay
04-13-2006, 05:00 PM
Might be enough for 600rwhp... but you may need to think about a second inline pump to make more power! I am planning on running my A1000 side by side with a Walbro or Bosch external in line pump!

MadGoat
04-13-2006, 05:20 PM
Looks good so far.

I am going to do the dual bosch pump setup with the stock tank sumped but losing(not using) the factory feed line. Picking up some fuel baffle from fuel safe to help with the fuel sloshing around.
Although the BAP's work well. I believe they decrease the life of the pump and are more of a bandaid to a proper fuel system.

When you run the bigger pumps on the street like the SX, Aeromotive, Weldon, they need the voltage to be dropped so they don't overheat in traffic and fail. I believe Aeromotive has a unit that does the low and high voltage and the Weldon Dial A flow does it as well. I have had many friends stranded on the side of the road because of this.

The other way to do it would be to activate the SX pump on a hobbs switch or boost reference so that the intank will do all the work under regular driving.

The only thing I am not a fan of is too many electronics in the mix that could fail. I like the "Keep it simple" method to try tracking down electrical problems if they ever occur.

I am offering my .02 from having 4 (2 now and 2 in the past few years) 500-650 rwhp street cars (Not like that makes me an expert LOL)

Good luck with your setup and I'll post detail on mine over the next few weeks.

MadGoat
04-13-2006, 05:25 PM
Ya think we need a fuel section on the site?

b727pic
04-13-2006, 05:27 PM
Might be enough for 600rwhp... but you may need to think about a second inline pump to make more power! I am planning on running my A1000 side by side with a Walbro or Bosch external in line pump!

Just for argument sake lets assume we want 800ish RWHP....
Drive line loss roughly=150HP
We need roughly 975 FWHP to equate to 800ish RWHP

Assuming a BSFC (FI motor) of .60

975*.60=585 Lb's/hr

Assuming fuel weighs 6.2 lbs/gal

585/6.2= 94.35

Based on the above assumptions our fuel requirements are a pump capable of flowing 94.35 Gal/hr

The pump I specd out will flow upwards of 115 GPH, given I wont be near the 975 fwhp for awhile I am confident this single pump should support my needs.

However if I am missing something, someone please enlighten me!!

b727pic
04-13-2006, 05:29 PM
The other way to do it would be to activate the SX pump on a hobbs switch or boost reference so that the intank will do all the work under regular driving.

.

Exactly what is proposed in my outline....

b727pic
04-13-2006, 05:33 PM
When you run the bigger pumps on the street like the SX, Aeromotive, Weldon, they need the voltage to be dropped so they don't overheat in traffic and fail. I believe Aeromotive has a unit that does the low and high voltage and the Weldon Dial A flow does it as well. I have had many friends stranded on the side of the road because of this.

Precisely why I want to run two pumps, utilizing one as the primary, the other as a hi volume booster....

I have pushed my last car......:madsign3:

b727pic
04-13-2006, 05:42 PM
I am going to do the dual bosch pump setup .

Like this?
http://www.fluidsysteminnovations.com/index_files/ newproducts.htm

MadGoat
04-13-2006, 06:15 PM
http://modularmustangracing.com/images/200100.jpg
More closer to this..I am not a fan of the right angles on the feed side of the system. Although it may be fine but I have always had it drilled into my head that you "y" the transions, split the rails and feed them from the front so that the fuel is forced back through the rails under acceleration and return out the back. That setup is a Mustang setup without a sump for 900 hp.

mistermike
04-13-2006, 06:59 PM
I'm opting for a similar, but somewhat different approach. Fuel pump is a Mallory 110 GPH / 60 Lb @ 12 Volts. Hopefully no booster needed. Below 1 PSI, a hobbs switch and relay will throw resistance in the circuit to slow down the pump to approximately stock levels. Mallory regulator at the rails and stock line used as return. I won't be using a sump, but rather 4 Walbro multi point pickups feeding a -8 line exiting through the top of the tank. That way I don't have to remove the vapor cannister or mess with the other plumbing. Also considering coolers on forward and return lines to keep vaporization at a minimum.

05GoatBoy
04-14-2006, 06:33 AM
Ya think we need a fuel section on the site?


fer sheezy!