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  • · Registered
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    21 Posts
    Hey long time no talk ,how u been. Ive been incognito but last year i made about 20 passes . I never did the stroker , kept stock crank and stock 243s ported myself, forged rods wiseco 12 5 1 , file fit rings , schnieder cam solid roller 680 lift 260 duration, roller rockers and the fast 102 combo , e85 through open header made 504/450 to the wheel M6 ,hossier 10.50 on weld 15/10. Best et 11.31 at 123 with a 1.65 60ft , weight me in it 3800

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    I hear ya man, gonna tub it,need wide tire, 15s for the track, sub connectors for sure, and some weight reduction to wouldnt hurt

    · 9 Second Club
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    980 Posts
    Something to keep in mind, whatever you end up with engine-wise:
    Anyone can make respectable hp. Getting it to the pavement efficiently is the key. You will need to address suspension and the weak IRS to really fly.

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    i seen lunati crank signiture series for freekin 2000+ dollars, must be super light weight

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    i do hav long tubes alredy kooks 1 7/8 i believe, i may be trying to do that race motor shit lol,we shall see , me and the old man gonna see what we can do.
    ive been lookin at coast performance they have rotating assembly dominator kit for 2500 i believe

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    i see good shit,i cant get anybody to tell me if maching the gasket on exhaust port is beneficial, or is it possible to bust thru the water lacket

    · 9 Second Club
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    Intake matching is more important, in my opinion. Exhaust porting is beneficial, but you'd be better advised just to put some good long-tubes on the engine, unless you're building an all out 700+hp race motor. Yes, the Lunati crank and rods would be a really good investment. Is it a standard stroke or something like a 4.00" stroke? Seems like a good price. My initial cost for the rotating assembly was nearly $3.5k, which included Diamond pistons as well.

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    question for you, should i open up the exhuast and match to gasket and headers. ive matched the roof, but not sure if i should do the bottom.also i was lookn at Hinson they hav a lunati crank and rods for 1100, you ever used lunati cranks,
    i was really thinkn about buying individual parts for the bottom,

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    21 Posts
    youve done a shit load of work to ur car kno it inside and out, i feel like im just gettn started but i gotta start some wher, i hear you on the MT's been lookin around for some rims too.
    I have to hand it to you on that 60' wow . Keep up the good work,
    I'll keep u imformed about the engine.

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    21 Posts
    Damn man i thought 650 rwhp would be in the 10's easy. i gotta lot i wanna do, injectors and fuel pump proly have to be upgraded ,coilovers for the front, gottem for the back solid cradle bushings and beefed up toe rods, but i need the sub frame connectors, and tubs ,ive got get more rubber down, alotta shit to get everything right, the way i want it lol. Just gona stay concentrated on the engine right now tho. 1 thing at a time right

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    cool shit man, im hoping i can do just a cross hatch on the cylinders ,and go 5 over if possible. last year i dropped some insurance money on a G-Force strange S track, cf driveshaft, but i still gotta get the outter stubs ,then i gotta get the wheel bearings to, pretty close 1000 bucks from g-force,i dono if theres a cheaper option.

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    21 Posts
    im hoping my drivability is good i hav a clutch car with 390 gears in the back, goin for close to 12/1 compression no spray , i was wandering about restriction with the 243's ,im ryn to save som money on this part for now im just porting the hell outta them, matching gaskets , this is my plan anyway, heads can always be changed later if i want

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    21 Posts
    im goin 4 inch crank forged bottom basically , was lookin at the Sneider solid cam 680 lift intake porting polishing stock 243, racing roller lifters comp cams gold roller rockers,springs to match cam, titanium retainers, and locks, im wandering a couple things will this setup work with the 243's, and are the rockers gonna hit the stock valve covers
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