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High idling and traction off!

1K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Steel Chicken 
#1 ·
I know there are numerous post on high idles and traction off, but really haven't found an answer yet! I have changed 3 tps so far and it seems like every time I change one it works then starts back with the high idling symptoms. The last one I changed was 3 days ago. The idling and traction was back to normal but today it started back idling around 2k and traction kicks off and stays off. 3 days back I went to advance auto to get the check engine checked, said it was tps, maf, and map sensors..like wtf...Don't want to changed out all of them and find out the issue will come back soon. Does anyone know the correct fix for this?
Whenever the issue starts I have to unplug the tps and drive it around town that way, then the idle will get back normal..
 
#2 ·
Have you tried cleaning the MAF. I bet you that's what's causing all your little problems.
 
#3 ·
A wild internet guess would be a MAF issue. Try cleaning your MAF with MAF cleaner. Also, check the wires in the MAF harness. I had the identical issue and it turned out to be a bad wire in the the little MAF connector.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Forgot to mention that I checked the wires/plug prongs and cleaned the maf with maf cleaner too. Also cleaned the throttle body and check vac lines too. But after I wrote my post here I read if you reset the pcm it would possibly fix it too. So I decided to do that option. So I reseted the pcm (all the steps), then started the car up. Car started idling good and tc was usuable (also check engine light wasn't showing). After all that, I shut the car off and got ready for work.
Started the car up again and every thing was fine until 5 mins during my drive to work. Started back idling up around 2k again then proceeded at a red light. Car sat at 2k idling and about 2-3 seconds dropped to normal idle. Light changed and didn't have the issue yet. Not sure if that help it relearn the idle but its driving better. Car is killing me right now. Hopefully, when I leave work in the morning it will be good still.
 
#5 ·
Forgot to mention that I checked the wires/plug prongs and cleaned the maf with maf cleaner too. Also cleaned the throttle body and check vac lines too. But after I wrote my post here I read if you reset the pcm it would possibly fix it too. So I decided to do that option. So I reseted the pcm (all the steps), then started the car up. Car started idling good and tc was usuable (also check engine light wasn't showing). After all that, I shut the car off and got ready for work.
Started the car up again and every thing was fine until 5 mins during my drive to work. Started back idling up around 2k again then proceeded at a red light. Car sat at 2k idling and about 2-3 seconds dropped to normal idle. Light changed and didn't have the issue yet. Not sure if that help it relearn the idle but its driving better not again for the 4th time, lol. Car is killing me right now. Hopefully, when I leave work in the morning it will be good still.
Sounds to me more of an idle linkage issue! Disconnect it and rev your engine with your hand, see what happens! Try simulating your driving condition that provokes the problem and see if it still occurs even with the linkage disconnected.

Another thing, test before you change! Suspect your TPS? Disconnect it and drive without and see if your problem still occurs! Since you say you cleaned your MAF, I'm ruling it out. But you can still test this. Disconnect your MAF and drive without it! Play around for a few hours or days even!

No worries, your PCM will switch to different modes to compensate for the missing sensor input!

Keep us updated!
 
#7 ·
Well made it home from work! Didn't have not one issue leaving work and stopped by a couple places. Probably traveled around 7-8 miles. Will let you guys know if anything happens..
 
#9 ·
I think earlier this week..I went back to auto zone again and got another tps (changed it out in the parking lot)...The problem acted like it wanted to creep back up on me again so I decided to do it again. Also, checked the throttle body to see was there any oil build up made sure I tightened the 3 bolts so no air will not enter their too. But all went well there and drove the car back home after I did the swap.
But there is one other problem that I think I didn't list before. I know when I turn the key to on position, the throttle cable moves a little (like a click click noise then stops). Does it everything time I turn to on. And when the key is turned to off, the IAC makes a buzz noise (not sure if its suppose to do that) I tried many different scenario's like reset the tps, lower the bolt down for the throttle position lever, and just looked around for anything else dealing with that.
But all has been working well after the tps swap again. No high idles or anything. Just acts like it wants to when I change to 5th or 6th but gets back right to normal idle. It does that every so often. If the high idle happens again, not sure what to do :(
 
#10 ·
The 04 has a throttle cable device called a relaxer,used to control the traction control.Follow your cable from the throttle body to a round device. On the passenger Sid e and that will be your problem if that is the location of the noise and moving cable
 
#11 ·
The plastic cup thing...I took it off but didn't know what to do. Does that deal with cruise control too? What do I look for?
 
#12 ·
Why haven't you pulled codes yet. This should step number 1, always.
 
#13 ·
Race mode is activated.
 
#14 ·
auto zone said tps/maf...advance said map/maf/tps...
 
#15 ·
Thats like saying "yep, somethings wrong."

Theres only about 11ty billion codes related to those things. Post specific code numbers. They are there for a reason, to help you find out whats wrong.
 
#18 ·
Codes will be retained in memory even if the light goes off, unless you clear codes or yank the battery.
 
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