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$700 rear mount turbo build

403K views 2K replies 213 participants last post by  ericwilloughby 
#1 · (Edited)
$1500 is giving me 12 psi and 8th times of 7.1@102 off a 1.7 60 ft. on street tires. 580/660 wtq. NO intercooler. I run E-85.

Some photos of my cheap ass turbo build in the first steps. :)


Parts:
$320 Holset WH2D turbo. 4-10 psi depending on which gear with no wastegate
$600 MasterPower T-70 10-20 psi. Replaced above turbo.
$320 Custom pipe
$140 Silicone hose, T-bolts, air filter
$80 Flo-Jet oil return pump. its so loud
$70 Hardware-brass,brake line hangers, screws
$50 Wastegate, for MasterPower turbo. Buy better.
$50 BOV + 3" adapter pipe
$30 Oil feed flanges
$30 Exhaust inlet flange. I made my own. Don't do it.
$28 Brake line for oil supply
$16 radiator and oil overflow cans
$14 Hose for PCV and gauge
$10 2 boxes of vacuum tees for PCV and gauge
$9 breather for oil can
$7 relay for oil pump
$5 PCV check valve

$1450 complete turbo kit +

$500 HPT or other tuning
$320 60# Injectors
$140 in-tank Walbro add another $140 if you want 2
$35 injector wiring adapters

$1000 for tuning and fuel


2009 Jan edit. I've moved up to a MasterPower T-70 set at 7 psi and am still at $1600, 62# injectors, Walbro fuel pump. . Here is a copy of the new list from post 330 for current parts and prices. And oh yeah, it works all right :)

2009 March edit: I bought HP tuners.


2009 April edit: I came across a new Holset HX50 for $240 and a friend made a variable A/R valve that I wanted to try so I took the MasterPower off (valve requires a divided housing) and put this stuff on to play with. Turns out the HX50 had the exact same guts as the WH2D, damn. The valve allowed me to turn the boost up double or triple. I settled on 10 psi but the pistons only took that for 3 days. Broke off 2 ring lands. No other damage was done because the pieces stayed put between the rings.

2009 May edit: I now have a forged block, Eagle rods, Wiseco -11cc dish blower pistons, ARP main studs. $1500. I have as much in my block as the turbo project. I love the external gate of the Holset's (sound) but I need to go back to the MasterPower, put a larger A/R on it first, to put the pressure on this forged block.

2009 Sep edit: I bought and installed a .96 A/R exhaust housing for the mp t-70. Its giving me 12-15 psi and 8th times of 7.74@104 off a 2.0 60 ft. on street tires. 580/660 wtq. I'm never going back to the diesel turbo. The Walbro is done...I'm have to run 50% gas and 50% E-85 to keep my AFR up. Working on fittings for an external pump.

2010 Feb edit: Staying with the MP T-70 .96 A/R. I made the external in-line pump, no regulator, no return, controled off a 6 psi boost Hobbs switch. It works but only rasied my fuel pressure from 3 back to 4 bar on 60# injectors. I expected a little more for my $300. I wish I'd have bought a meth kit instead and sprayed E-85 through it.

April 2010 update: I burnt up the 3-4 clutches in the trans boosting #10 in OD. I found a guy that used to own a trans business that works from his own shop now. He got me raybestos stage 1 clutches, extra wide band and drum for $400 and is doing the labor for $400. While the trans is out i put a Fti 2800 stall in also. $800 for the stall and $800 for the trans.
7.1@102 on a 1.7 60' eighth mile
Lockup clutch on the converter stopped working due to an improper chamfer cutting the o-ring. Sent it back for a full refund.

I also made a DIY boost a pump with an 18v DeWalt battery for $20. Worked great.

July 2010: I added a second Walbro inside the tank. This is a cheap easy mod.

Jan 2012: I had my 7th 4l65e failure and am in the process of a 4l80 swap.

August 2019. Been a long time since I've seen this. Car was totalled years ago. 4l80 swap never worked out. 3 drivesshafts never fixed the intolerable vibration. The rear turbo was a complete success and fun to drive but ate 4l65's. I'd like to do my current ride c6 Corvette manual but I don't want it broken all the time
Where the parts came from:

The oil lines are brake lines, inverted flares and hardware from NAPA and AutoZone.

Flo-jet Oil return pump from Tractor supply. I switched to a Walbro fuel pump. Works so far. Quite too. Got clogged and failed. Using what everyone else does now, Surflo...

BOV from eBay.
siliconeintakes.com for hoses, air filter, T-bolt clamps.

The oil supply:









 

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#2 · (Edited)
Turbo goes here :) I have an HX40 but the wastegate is broken. Having no luck exchanging it. It also is a T3 flange, very small, but maybe a good thing for a rear setup. I may have to go with a HX50 which has no gate but a much larger compressor and a T4 flange.



 

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#3 · (Edited)
The oil return with cooler.









 

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#1,143 ·
i had and idea. what is the size of the stock intake tube. it would be pretty neat to cut up you air box and wrap it around the inlet pipe and then cut you stock intake tube longways and wrap it around and rig it up to look stock, minus the bov to and idiot it would look stock. well just a suggestion, im gonna give it a shot on mine when i complete my kit
 
#11 ·
That turbo looks like it was covered in barnacles haha.

This ought to be interesting and really badass if it works.
 
#21 · (Edited)
That turbo looks like it was covered in barnacles haha.

That is some funny shit. ha ha ha

I've been trying to get a better turbo for a month now. I'm tired of waiting and ready for the exhaust to go on. I need to decide today to upgrade to the HX50 with no wastegate or just put this junky thing on and see what happens, I mean blows. :)

I actually only gave $100 for this thing but it needs a $100 wastegate actuator. Sucks that the diaphragm is blown. I don't know what to do with it. Put it on or trade up to the T4 that may not spool but may not need a wastegate in all likely hood.
 
#12 ·
'bout time some one did something like this, keep us updated
 
#13 ·
looks good great idea keep us updated!!
 
#16 ·
subscribed. :popcorn2:
 
#18 ·
Looks like you got something going here. Keep posting those pics I still have most of the parts i bought to do the same thing.
 
#19 ·
:gr_jest: This right here is precisely why the STS kit is over priced. Awesome eric, hope everything works out for you. I myself am a former builder of home brewed turbo kits on the cheap. I did a 93 Grand Am for under $1000 for a guy a while back. That included about $700 worth of labor that I charged him. :D
 
#22 · (Edited)
You are going to NEED a BOV, you arent driving a diesel. The first time you are in boost, then lift the gas pedal, something is GOING to give. The throttle plate is shut and the turbo is still compressing air... Itll either ram that throttle plate down your TB's gullet or more likely blow off a charge pipe, or possibly destroy the turbo. (Actually it WILL destroy the turbo - it will just take a little longer, and when that compressor gives, your engine will be ingesting all that junk.)

Have you done anything at all to beef up your fuel supply? Do you know what the AIT's are going to be at the given power level as well as what boost level you will need to be at to achieve those power levels with that holset 40 (or 50). Have you even looked at a compressor map?

And if you do go with the HX50 you will HAVE to put a wastegate into the system or say bye bye engine AND turbo the first time you are into boost.

I commend you for your effort but you REALLY need to do a LOT more research than what it appears you've done to keep everything from grenading.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/tech_center.html

Read tech 101, 102, and 103
 
#27 · (Edited)
Shocked it took 12 hours




I can't believe it took 12 whole hours for somebody to bust me down. haha And it wasn't (Kiwisti, 24V, or jcain) like I expected.

I have read that. I have 3 compressor maps for various HX40's.

As for all the rest of the questions, we'll just see. :) Its all about the fun of learning, and burning rubber.
 
#24 ·
I read about something like this a while back. Kid took a junker Mustang (Fox body maybe?), put in a relatively low output motor that he got dirt cheap, and a couple turbo's off of some tractors as I recall. Made sick amounts of power from a cheap, reliable setup and was blowing the doors off many others at the strip.

Good luck!
 
#26 ·
looks interesting, cant wait to see the final results!
 
#29 · (Edited)
What kind of power at what boost levels do you plan on making?

I would at least do some fuel mods to keep things safe. What are you going to do about tuning?

You can get a cheap bov, prob $20, from a dsm and they are good to about 18psi

Looks like a fun budget project. I have wanted to do something like it for a while now. But I dont want to break anything, including the bank :)
 
#42 ·
You can get a cheap bov, prob $20, from a dsm and they are good to about 18psi
BOVs have a diaphragm that is actuated by the vacuum created when the throttle plate closes; not the boost from the turbo--they prevent backpressure into the turbo compressor when letting off the throttle under boost.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Plans for boost and power, ha, what plans. I'll take what I can get. I'll take what ever the turbo'll put out or whatever the Ethanol will handle.

For now everything is stock. I tune with a Predator. If I enjoy this project and want to tinker I'll get HPT and some 60's. But those things will cost me near $1500 as I don't have a laptop.

As for the BOV. Maybe later. I've driven a WRX and I had to work at it to get it to blow off. Are they adjustable? I'm thinking the cheap OEM models have a fixed relief PSI and I won't be anywhere near it.
 
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