LS1GTO Forums banner

Engine Oil Cooler ?

6K views 45 replies 23 participants last post by  pontiacwildchild 
#1 ·
anyone offer a complete Engine Oil Cooler kit for our cars ?
 
#7 ·
yeah..i guess that piece fits betwen the block and the filter...
 
#14 ·
Nope.
It's purpose is to NOT bypass the filter.
It goes on top of the oil filter.

Oil comes out of the engine block, into the outside ring on top of the sandwich plate, gets sent to the oil cooler thru the hose, gets cooled, returns to the underneath outside ring of the sandwich block, then thru the outside section of the oil filter, gets filtered, comes back up the inside of the oil filter and thru the inside of threaded spigot into the engine block.
 
#12 ·
I seriously doubt it will clog up (you will have bigger problems than just keeping your oil cool at that point) but on the adapter there should be a filter bypass in case your filter clogs up or is receiving too much oil to filter. I don't know what this guys price is but they are normally fairly cheap (I have seen generic kits for under $100 and good insurance for your motor if you do a lot of racing with it. The trick is finding space to mount it front of your rad or some other place that gets ram air and won't get destroyed by road debris. You see a lot of these on tow rigs, roundy round cars vehicles that generate high heat.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Not all coolers are built the same. Some use an simple pipe surrounded by fins. This is very inneficient as only the oil close to the pipe inner surface gets cooled. Others use a mesh or honeycomb like assebly that is prone to clog with sludge. Perma Cool is of the pipe type but has an inner helical cross divided assembly which they claim forces the oil to swirl around and get more efficinet cooling. So on and so forth.

I do not know which cooler is really more eficient and best choice. The point is that it would be worthwhile for those who know about the subject to post some insight into the subject before deciding on which design to use. At present, and for all I may know at this point, Perma Cool would be my choice, but I am still looking into this subject.
 
#15 ·
only time you gotta worry about the cooler clogging are things where you gotta worry about the rest of the motor , like a head gasket or cracked part allowing coolant into the oil and making chocolate milk shake , never changing your oil and it thickening up

but normal use , with a good constant oil temp , you shouldnt have any issues
 
#16 ·
Works for me. It's $850 (presumably AUD).
 
#17 ·
I hope not, talk about overpriced.
 
#18 ·
Let's talk more about how the oil would flow through the coils. It's gotta be efficient to use a tube and aluminum fin design, similar to baseboard heating in building. I wouldn't be worried with making the fluid "turbulent" inside the tube, right?

What about something like this? I'd like to find one with connections on the same side for east of installation...

 

Attachments

#19 ·
Hayden PN K2467. 5"x14.5"x0.75". It's a bit smaller than the B&M people go with (7 3/8"x11"x1 3/4"), but I like that its connections are on the same side. Anybody know the capacity/dimensions of the stock cooler? :confused:

 

Attachments

#23 ·
Would there be any benifit to putting a cooler inline on my oil return from the sts turbo before it gets dumped back into the head inlet port ?
 
#24 ·
To bring this back from the dead...

Turbo Technology Inc, in Tacoma WA, is putting a custom oil cooler setup in my car tomorrow. They are drilling a hole in the side of the oil pan to run the oil through and the cooler itself will be mounted down low in front of the radiator. Total cost, including labor, should be under $1k. If anyone is interested I'd be happy to post a few pics of the finished product.
 
#25 ·
All done. Here's some pics from the underside so you can see where they put the fittings and lines. These pics are with the skid plate removed so you can see everything, but it goes back on without any issues.


 

Attachments

#26 ·
looks pretty good , did they have to do anything special to hold the adapter to the pan ? and what are the chances of getting the adapter parts ? the rest is easy enough to get , and some of us will need custom parts or different locations

they coulda cleaned up your leaky filter though , lol
 
#27 ·
Nice creativity, but $1000 for just that?
And is that plumbers tape? Don't they make thread lock for situations like this?
Finally, is your oil pan corroding away by the drain plug or is it jsut the pictures?
 
#28 ·
Ron Davis makes a great one for the C5 you might want to check out...cheaper than the stuff listed here and bigger.



A lot of the RR guys over on CF use it. Don't see why you couldn't make it work.
 
#29 ·
They have to machine a custom adapter and rod long enough to mount it. They said they're planning on making a kit out of it that will be completely bolt on and doable in a couple hours in your garage. Nothing concrete on pricing yet, but he said the kit would likely end up less than $500. My bill was around $800, but most of that was labor. Also, what you can't see from the pics is the cooler itself. It's black and is about 10"x10". The lines fit nicely through the side corner gap of my BMR skid plate, and everything tucks up tight enough that nothing hangs below the bumper/skid plate.

And yes, I need to clean my engine. No corrosion, just dirty...sheesh.
 
#31 ·
As long as we're dredging this one up, any oil cooler should have a thermostatic bypass. Overcooling oil is worse than overheating it. Lubrication efficiency drops like a brick below 180*F.
 
#35 ·
My question is, did you check your oil temp before the install with a guage? If so what was your oil temp before and after. Just wondering how much it actually helps.
 
#36 ·
Cooling oil isn't particularly urgent in most parts of the country. It's mostly done in extremely hot climates like Saudi Arabia or extreme duty racing applications. But, like chicken soup, it doesn't hurt if done properly.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top