ok so im putting together this build and so far i already have the fast 102 intake and throttle body. I'm looking to open up all 4 coolant crossover port and i was looking at this kit from kurt urban...
it is perfect except i think that block with his stamp is hideous... you can buy the little black adapters with -an fitting separate and i plan on just puting together the rest myself.
having trouble finding other blocks that has (5) -4an ports, thats where im hoping y'all could help.
-Thxs
examples:
not trying to step on anyone's toes or sell shit... just widening my search to people who know more than me.
short term maybe... but im in this for the long haul. plan on having this car for a very long time and anything to keep her going longer is worth it in my book. im just nit picking and this build is going slower than i thought anyways (due to getting out of the navy) thank you for the search terms.
and with all the talk about fast intakes running so hot in the back (#7) i would rather not take the chance. just picking the prettier of options. bringing it up over the intake makes it more effective so if it is going to be all out like that i would rather it look nice then some hack job with the LS6 tubes.
I plumbed up the rear steam ports on mine using the Wegner adapters, AN fittings and reinforced hose. I'm working on a hardline kit now. I'll post pics later once I have some time.
no sooner than i say i don't like the bigger dis. blocks do i find one that i like lol... still not a fan of the blatant ads, might call and see if i can get the words off and leave the logo.
reason for the continued search is i would rather have mounting holes than fab up hard lines so it can float. and since these are not under serious pressure than it dosn't have to be crazy -an stuff...
I ended up just finding an early ls1 style one online for $35 shipped. On an ls6 intake, you can just chisel off some of the ribs off the bottom so it can clear.
I think I'm going with the one nitrous outlet makes. All stainless hardline looks very nice, only works with certain intakes though. Luckily mine is one of them.
I'd like to hear a theory that actually makes sense as to why do this. The engine is tipped back, acceleration pushes water back, bubbles would go to the front. The purpose is to bleed out any potential little steam pocket that may form. It's not going to circulate any significant coolant nor keep #7 from popping a ring land that I can see. If you're making that much steam you have far worse problems. Theories?
well that's just it... #7 running hot, especially with a LSXr and not much info on why or how to remove it. (that i have seen) Also relying on the tipping back of your engine to shake out all the steam from back there seems a little... well not efficient. i say if it was designed like that from the get go... and it is something that has not been removed even to this day, then why not take advantage at increasing the longevity of your engine? And lastly the stock crossovers really don't do what they are ment to. If the vent to the rad. is sitting lower than the ports they are coming out of then the steam is just getting trapped in the corners of the heads... and this gets even words when you put in a LSXr because you have to bend the tube down just to fit the LSXr.
(not a LXSr but the same bending down)
your gansta lean back anit gonna shake all dem bubbles out dawg. It needs to rise higher than the ports which in turn is higher than the intake.
i am no engineer but it would seem to me that opening these things up and keeping your engine cooler is a good thing no?
Will the one from NO fit under a traditional LS intake? It might be for a raised intake like Edelbrocks and Holley HiRams.
From what I read about Kurt Urban's theory behind tying in the rear steam ports is the distribution block should be the highest point of the cooling system. That way all steam rises to the dist block. This is supposed to promote even cooling to the rear cylinders.
Here is a post that has some information about the vapor system working:
Excerpts:
" I have my stock temp sensor in the stock location in the driver's side head, that will read 195 degrees consistantly. I also have an autometer gauge reading off the passenger side head which puts it over #8. Which will read 210-220, or more depending on traffic or if I hotlap it at the track."
"Brought #8 (my rear water temp sensor) right back down to 195 like the front stock sensor reads. I've tested it on the street in decent city/highway traffic and at the track."
not sure you used enough words here but i think what your telling me is that this is all magic BS hocus pocus right? and that tiny tubes are incapable of doing the said task of being a vent... regardless of what corner they are on?
Yes. When I had to bleed the system from the distribution block coolant poured out like a sieve. I would like to add a T with a flare cap if I need to ever bleed the system again.
No I think the tiny tubes can do a job of venting the small amounts of steam that can form. I just think in anything outside a circle track race car it's overkill and won't save a single engine. Won't hurt a thing otherwise.
oh well in that case your probably right lol... minus the back side getting to hot and some have already tested this theory to work. i admitted it eariler, plus i think im addicted to billet :shiner:
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