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My cam build for January

963 views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  GTOSPEED352 
#1 ·
Hey guys, been planning a cam build for a few months now and have been slowly gathering parts for the install (By me) and tune (By Jeremy Formato), hopefully by early January. I wanted to give a list of parts that I have and what I plan to buy and see what you guys think so far.

First off, she’s a 2005 M6 PBM 50k on the clock (Only had the car for 4k miles). Only thing done to it is a X-Pipe and Flowmaster axle back mufflers.

What I have so far is a Torquer V2 112lsa (232/234 .595/.598), BT racing dual platinum valve springs .660 (with new retainers, locks, and valve seals), new Melling oil pump, SLP double roller timing chain, 160 SLP thermostat, gates water pump, comp cams pushrod measuring tool, trunion upgrade for the stock rockers, and Lunati link bar lifters. Also, I am in the process of making a similar OTRCAI to the Svede (which will hopefully work out, if not Svede here I come!).

What I have planned to get before January is Kooks stepped SS 1 7/8 with no cats, doug’s 3” electric cutouts, gasket/bolt set from TSP (front timing cover, valve covers, water pump, ARP crank bolt, front crank seal), pushrods (once I measure), 10% ATI UDP, new belts, coolant, and oil.
With the tune being from Jeremy Formato, I am also getting him to do a stage 2 porting of the stock manifold and the TB.
After all of that, I will have $2k to spend, but not a dollar more. With that I could do a few things.

Option 1 Anti-wheel hop level 1 Gforce half shafts 799.99, Level 1 28 spline inner axle stubs $550.00, then save the rest ($400 left over) for a BC racing coilover set (The ER set) - $1849

Option 2 BC racing ER coilover set and save the rest for half shafts and stubs later.

Still, some concerning parts for me will be the clutch and driveshaft. (Should I just be saving for these)

My ending goals for this car would be to make 450-500 to the wheels, but I realize that this may not get me there fully. Over the course of the next few months I will be saving to have my stock heads ported by AI. Hoping I can hit my goals after the head work.

Please give me your thoughts and ideas, any and all are appreciated.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I say clutch as your number one priority after horsepower modifications. That will be the first to go with that kind of power I would think. After that I say suspension mods of your choice. Good luck!

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That's what I was afraid of. My choices are Monster level 2/3 and Street Slayer. I will be replacing the slave, pilot bearing, release bearing, doing braided lines, remote bleeder, and master cylinder if I go through with it. (Probably will now)

Good luck with the build, may want to look into a Fast 102 instead of getting the LS2 intake ported.
Its $400 for the stage 2 porting, and over $800 for the FAST 102 intake alone, don't you need different fuel rails too? Not sure if that will be cost effective enough for me at this point.

Put the first priority toward a new clutch, your stocker won't hold up for long with the power you'll be making. As for drivetrain vs. coilovers for the next mod, I say do coilovers, the stock driveshaft and rear end assembly will be fine unless you have horrendous wheel hop or track the car a lot. The coilovers will help put the power to the ground making it more usable, and wake the car's handling up 10 fold. Im still on my stock rear end and drive shaft, Im right around the level you'll be at after those heads AI go on.
Sweet, think I will be doing clutch then coilovers now, what clutch are you running? My current choices are above and what I plan on doing along with it.
 
#4 ·
Put the first priority toward a new clutch, your stocker won't hold up for long with the power you'll be making. As for drivetrain vs. coilovers for the next mod, I say do coilovers, the stock driveshaft and rear end assembly will be fine unless you have horrendous wheel hop or track the car a lot. The coilovers will help put the power to the ground making it more usable, and wake the car's handling up 10 fold. Im still on my stock rear end and drive shaft, Im right around the level you'll be at after those heads AI go on.
 
#6 ·
Hey guys, .... a Torquer V2 112lsa (232/234 .595/.598), BT racing dual platinum valve springs .660 ....
Please give me your thoughts and ideas, any and all are appreciated.
Went a little overkill on the valve springs?
Just an observation, I could be way off base, but excess spring pressure only stresses out the lifters. Sure they will really control the valves, but at what cost.
 
#12 ·
Too much seat pressure is a bad thing. PAC 1218 drop-in replacements will be all you need.
 
#14 ·
My advice with the last $2k of budget would be clutch and heads. You have link bar lifters for cam install... IE heads are coming off. That means gaskets and bolts, so if you do the ported heads later that means gaskets and bolts again. You could wait to do the lifters and that would be a nice option. The springs though would then have to come off the heads when you do the swap (I personally just use new springs with new sets of heads). I'm just an advocate of not doing work twice or thrice. I'm an example of wasted money not just doing it right the first time having done heads on my car twice.
 
#15 ·
Its $400 for the stage 2 porting, and over $800 for the FAST 102 intake alone, don't you need different fuel rails too? Not sure if that will be cost effective enough for me at this point.
Yeah but if you get a used FAST for around 6-700 bux, then you can sell your stock one for 200. That leaves you 4-500 in the whole for a FAST vs 400 in the hole for a ported LS2.

Not dogging on the ported LS2 as that's what I run and very happy with the results, but I got mine done for a lot less which was cost effective vs. a FAST. But given that you are going to be spending that much on just the porting work it would make more sense to spend an extra hundred bux (or less) for a FAST.
 
#17 ·
Putting it that way makes it much more feasible and ideal to me, definitely will think about this.

FAST 102 is direct bolt in except you have to remove your rear engine hoist eyelet.

It is 15-20 HP over a ported ls2.
Really?! 15-20 OVER a ported LS2? That is quite significant.

My advice with the last $2k of budget would be clutch and heads. You have link bar lifters for cam install... IE heads are coming off. That means gaskets and bolts, so if you do the ported heads later that means gaskets and bolts again. You could wait to do the lifters and that would be a nice option. The springs though would then have to come off the heads when you do the swap (I personally just use new springs with new sets of heads). I'm just an advocate of not doing work twice or thrice. I'm an example of wasted money not just doing it right the first time having done heads on my car twice.
Damn, you guys are making me want to dump more into the motor/clutch for now and save the rest for suspension/drivetrain later. Rethinking the build and what I want/need accomplished. Thanks again for all the feedback guys.
 
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