I have had nothing but issues it seems with this clutch and transmission! The car is a 2006 GTO with a DTE built Stage V equivalent transmission,a HE StreetSlayer full disc clutch and Tick Adj. master cylinder. Brand new slave, remote bleed lines and HE braided clutch lines.
Within the last month I have had the transmission in and out probably ten times measuring and shimming and fixing and replacing the slave and this and that and this and that and I still have a problem with the clutch dragging. I don't know at this point if it is the pressure plate that is not allowing the clutch to come off completely or what, but I had at a last ditch effort tried to shim the slave cylinder with almost .360 in two shims, and still have a problem with the clutch dragging. After taking measurements according to Tick's directions here: http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server1.../T56worksheet__15174.1315930801.1280.1280.jpg
The A-B is less than .003 and I have tared my caliper far too many times and measured and remeasured far too many times.
Now, my question is what should I do. New clutch and pressure plate?
For the amount of frustration you have been through thusfar, I would say yes. You can always resale the other clutch if you find you still have the same issue.
Bench bled the tick. I tried to alleviate any headache I could with that go around. Since then I've bled it multiple times trying to see what I could do.
Then it seems you have eliminated a lot of variables short of pure mechanical or hydraulic failure. You can easily switch to your stock master and retry. If the same problem persists, you either have a slave or a mechanical issue in the clutch itself.
That's the kicker. I don't recall where the hell I put my damn stock master. And this is the third attempt at replacing the slave. That was my first instinct was the the slave had died on me, replaced, still dragged. Replaced slave, shimmed, and still dragged. Replaced slave again (thank god for lifetime warranty Oreilly autoparts), shimmed to .360, drove okay for a few days, now drags again.
Edit:
Is there a vast vast vast possibility that some of the junk that resides in the clutch fluid reservoir could end up downstream in the lines and possibly cause a decrease in flow of hydraulics, thus causing the reduced movement of the slave cylinder?
Anything is possible, I don't see that as being your issue though. I would seriously look at your master. I believe any mechanical issue with the clutch would have shown itself during your multiple measurements, but it shouldn't be off the table completely.
As I recall, immediately after the transmission rebuild, I put the HE SS in, and wasn't able to get the clutch to not drag despite shim attempts. I went with the Tick, hoping that it would push more fluid and allow for more force off of the pressure plate fingers. That worked for a good 6 months, then the springs in the clutch disk exploded (see previous thread). Now after a replaced HE SS clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, I'm having the same disengagement issues.
Find the stock, new monster clutch, pp, flywheel, slave and go from there?
Damn you wrp, you're supposed to swoop in with a 2 minute fix so I don't have to pull the transmission yet again. It's not something I'm proud of that I can pull the trans in an hour, and have it back in again in another hour and a half.