People are finding out the hard way. We are starting to replace fuel pump modules quite regularly because the filter is plugging up and you can not just buy the filter. At 200 to 400 a pop its a hard pill for most customers to swallow.
LOL, I learned the hard way except my old car had an inline filter. 60k miles later it plugged and burned the pump. Out 400 bucks. Sad that they did away with the inline filter that's easily accessible.
Can we safely do away w/ the intank filter and do an inline filter on our cars? If so, is it as straight forward as that, or do we need to put some type of screen back over whatever is in our tank?
That's odd that the GTO doesn't have an inline filter in addition to the tank filter. Both my 90 IROC-Z and 99 Cavy Z24 have inline and tank filters. I'm going to see if it's feasable to add one to my 06.
That's odd that the GTO doesn't have an inline filter in addition to the tank filter. Both my 90 IROC-Z and 99 Cavy Z24 have inline and tank filters. I'm going to see if it's feasable to add one to my 06.
What are the symptoms of a clogged fuel filter system?
I've been having some problems with, what I thought was my motor.
I've got a LS7 Clutch, Comp 448 cam, K&N RAM Air, OBX headers, CAT deletes and a tune (twice) the car was runing like a champ for over a year and recently, I get some bogging mainly when I'm at idle, then when I try to drop the clutch and slam the gas, my enginer begins to stutter/bog down like it's about to slaul, I loose horible launching capability I've also noticed that if I'm in 4th gear @ about 35-40 mph and I stomp on the gas, it also bogs down a bit, I thought it was my clutch but on some occasions it grabs and goes.
I run e3 spark plugs and don't put anything but mobile1 oil and oil filter. My neighbor who's a gear head, mentioned to check the fuel filter. I want to take it into the dealership cause I paid for the 6 year plan just to see if they can evaluate the problem, but I'm afriad they'll give me the cold should simply cause I've done alot to the car.
What are the symptoms of a clogged fuel filter system?
I've been having some problems with, what I thought was my motor.
I've got a LS7 Clutch, Comp 448 cam, K&N RAM Air, OBX headers, CAT deletes and a tune (twice) the car was runing like a champ for over a year and recently, I get some bogging mainly when I'm at idle, then when I try to drop the clutch and slam the gas, my enginer begins to stutter/bog down like it's about to slaul, I loose horible launching capability I've also noticed that if I'm in 4th gear @ about 35-40 mph and I stomp on the gas, it also bogs down a bit, I thought it was my clutch but on some occasions it grabs and goes.
After pulling my fair share of fuel filters ... really wish the GTO had a serviceable one. Every single one comes out pretty nasty (minus people who change them out regularly [rare]). And no, going to the top tier name brand stations doesn't mean jack ... still get plenty o' dirt in your shiet ...
Back flushing the old filter in the fuel pump assembly may help the cause but I know when I yanked the pump assembly from his car to drop in a walbro that nothing but brown sludge poured out of the filter...we drained it back out and got it as clean as we could.
Hindsight being 20/20 I would have cut it open and cleaned it then plastic welded it back together.
I once lost a pump do to an ingested metal shaving. ( Did a post mortem and discovered it inside the housing, wedged in)
So ideal would be a screen / mesh type filter at the pump inlet to protect the pump and an inline filter to protect the injectors. ( That's the way things used to be )
So ideal would be a screen / mesh type filter at the pump inlet to protect the pump and an inline filter to protect the injectors. ( That's the way things used to be )
We've got that. As others have pointed out, there is a filter after the pump. It has been labeled as non-servicable but that's not 100% accurate. It's true that you can't wash it out and you DO have to pull the tank to get at it but it IS replaceable and GM does offer it as a single part. The part # is 92146684 (thank you for the info LPE) and it looks like this:
Here's the bottom of it where you can see the filter media inside the kidney-bean-shaped portion:
If you search for the part # on Google and click the NalleyGMC website, you can see an exploded view of the whole fuel pump module. Though the part # appears to include 4 o-rings, you actually only get 3. I reused #9 because it doesn't appear to be under much pressure (in fact, I believe it is technically under slight vacuum).
Yes, that was what I was going to do to my car a while back. Technically, the car does have a filter system. It uses the fuel pump sock first and then forces gasoline through wire mesh. There used to be a part # for the replacement mesh, which I bought a few years ago. But, the sock acts as the primary filter.
The problem with these systems, is that you must remove the dirty sock to increase flow. But you should not simply remove the sock, because the sock protects the pump gears from contaminants and rust flakes, etc. So, instead I change the sock every other year and the mesh. Of course I am using a Walbro pump, and drilled extra holes in the bottom of the fuel canister to increase flow and prevent fuel starvation in turns. Do not port the canister sides.
Those with FI use more extensive set ups. So far, the above set up has not not clogged the injectors.
It's pretty easy, you can even mount the filter in the tank if you want to keep the plumbing simple, I put mine under the car to make maintenance easy.