You may have to give it a kick or two on the side of it also. +1 on the rusting.
2004 Torrid Red A4 1 of 1013
Pacesetter headers & mid pipes
Professional Products Intake Manifold
Professional Products 85mm Throttle Body
Rear end #3 as of 07/20/2012
Original 4L60E trans rebuilt professionally by SNL
Circle D 3000 Stall Converter
SNL/Phoenix Dyno Tune (finally)
327HP/350 TQ (at 115 degrees in the shop)
Soon to come:
Cam and destruction and humilation of father's Chevelle
BEFORE you put the next set or the same set back on...
CLEAN the hubcentric bore on the wheel AND the mating part on the hub
LUBE the hubcentric bore with a good moly paste. (I like the Loctite stick products.) DO NOT get any on the studs or lugnuts!
After you torque everything back up, go for a short drive and torque it back up again. 110 ft-lbs on the wrench if memory serves.
As far as getting them off now, you can VERY CAREFULLY take all the lugs off and drive SLOWLY up and down the driveway (or whatever) until you hear a POP! - that will be the hub finally freeing up. Again, do it slowly - you don't want to mangle the studs!
Good luck - I think any goat owner whose ever tried to get the wheels off has run in to your same predicament!
haha, yea, i remember the first time i tried to get my stockers off. man were they seized on. had to kick it about 100 times before i could finally pop it off
Former Mods: CAI, Kooks 1-3/4 black, Ported TB, Custom Borla Catback, Full Pedders Suspension, TTP V3 Equalizer cam, Vig 3600, ETP 215s, Ported FAST 90, Built 4L60E, 1 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.91s by Rocksand
All engine and trans work done by TTPerformance in Passaic, NJ
email@example.com 1.568 60' 458RWHP/431RWTQ through an A4
stand back from your car about 30ft, run as fast as you can at your car. Now do a jump twist snap kick ninja style at the rim. Should come right off.
Make sure you have 1 lug nut on it loose thoe, other wise the rim may attack you upon coming off the car
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