Sounds great!,a couple of questions,did you run e 85 with the 122?whats your tq at 2800 rpms now versus before?Good luck with your new set up ,sounds like a beast
I believe that he did the swap to E85 for the procharger and just ran 91 octane on the 122 with meth (IIRC). No doubt the E85 can help make more power but you need more injector for sure!
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2004 Monaro S/C CV8Z - Changes are occuring!
10.40 at 135w/ 1.64 60ft. All worked performed by www.tiberioperformance.com/
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I believe that he did the swap to E85 for the procharger and just ran 91 octane on the 122 with meth (IIRC). No doubt the E85 can help make more power but you need more injector for sure!
Correct! My maggie setup only made in the 560-570 range without meth. I'll post up before/after dynos charts when I get them. Looking forward to hearing about how much torque I lost below 3,000 rpm LOL.
2004 GTO : 655/598 HP/TRQ - Maggie 122 @10PSI, ETP 225 heads, SW LT's + magnaflow, 224/236/116 EDCam, Hendrix clutch, Corn juice fed and 2 bar Self-tuned. Whole lot of RAWR!
"More like the tuner slammed his face on the keyboard after opening each table." - Tom Brohanks
"I was animalwarfisted" - ironmancan
"The dealer near me has a nice truck(2006 Coloarde Xtream)" - Trekk
"I orderd a gm rip shit from them..." - EVIL_GTO
Just talked to my tuner and asked what my injector duty cycle was. He said they are maxed out (96 lb) . We're going to turn up the fuel pressure a bit at the regulator to help them out. I think Lonnie told me they would only be good to about this power level with E85, so he was right. I'm another E85 fan now! Another gto with my same setup (mixed 91 with race fuel) made right at 700 rwhp on this dyno so I think the E85 was good for an extra 60 hp or so.
Just talked to my tuner and asked what my injector duty cycle was. He said they are maxed out (96 lb) . We're going to turn up the fuel pressure a bit at the regulator to help them out. I think Lonnie told me they would only be good to about this power level with E85, so he was right. I'm another E85 fan now! Another gto with my same setup (mixed 91 with race fuel) made right at 700 rwhp on this dyno so I think the E85 was good for an extra 60 hp or so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel Chicken...
Word. I have been preaching the merits of E85 for years, and now, another convert to the Religion of Corn Juice.
It sounds like a damn fighter jet. 'Bout as fast as one too!
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2006 PBM/Black Leather M6 (1 of 803)
Born 09/10/2006
Found a home 08/04/07
For Looks - 32% Front /4% Rear Tint, Jamesbiz Arrowheads
Go Fast - Magnaflows, Billet Pro, M122
Turn Fast - Hotchkis Sways, Pedders HD Endlinks, Lovells RR Bushings, BMR Skid Plate, KWv3's, SS Lines
Hex-clutch, SCSS Gauges, tune, more bushings - Coming Soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flink...
What's "PRND123"? Something in Klingon?
Quote:
Originally Posted by flink...
Can drive Ivman home after Fish Fan drops wrench down #3 cyl.
My 402 was built for boost for a C6 corvette and has bad blowby. For the past year I have tried to manage it the best I could with breathers, but it was always messy in the engine compartment. Then when I put the F1A on it became out of control popping my dipstick at full boost even with my oil filler breather. I was pretty disappointed since I basically couldn't drive the car like this. So a friend of mine (billygoatgruff) was installing a GZ Motorsports vacuum pump and I decided to order the kit and try it out.
Got the kit last night and I installed it this morning in less than 2 hours. Everything fit perfectly and the kit is really nice. So I went out to test it and did 5 full boost runs up through 3rd and 4th which would normally leave clouds of burning oil behind me and oil all over my engine compartment. This time, not a drop and the dipstick was still snugly in place . Went back and checked the catch can and to my surprise there was very little oil in it . Can the solution be this simple and effective? I'm amazed at how well this thing works! Now I'm finally ready to get back to the track with this car.
This procharger definitely is a different animal than the maggie and basically exactly what I expected. The maggie setup I had with this 402 was an on/off switch. Basically full power at low rpm and then the same or diminishing power up top. I found it hard to manage on the street because it would blow tires away at low rpm's and then when they finally did hook up the peak power was not that impressive. However, I do think the E85 and this vacuum pump would have helped.
The procharger is loud and nasty sounding with the race bypass. Definitely not for a DD car (the maggie would be a better option for someone who wanted to stay under the radar on the street and not get pulled over by cops). But when you go into boost its scary fast. I think I started breaking the rear tires loose at the top of 4th today at 120 mph or so. It just keeps pulling harder and building more boost the higher it revs. I'm very curious what this car will do at the track now with the procharger vs. the maggie.
Man, after reading that last post I'm really starting to miss my procharger. I know exactly what you're talking about, except on a smaller scale (D1SC)haha.
Step into the throttle, car takes off slowly putting you back into your seat, more and more, RPMs keep climbing, you start to wonder how this is even possible and then WAM! Rev limiter, TiRes BurnINg almost Out of CONtRolL!
I want an F1 series Procharger now...
Sorry for jumping in on this thread. With your Procharger, how were your TQ numbers in the lower RPM range. I recently had the little P-1 installed and several people told me I would not make decent low end numbers with ANY model Procharger . I ended up with around 510 RWTQ @ 2800 RPMs , 540 RWTQ @around 3100 RPMs. Stock internals except for a cam and 6 pounds of boost with an A/4
2300 i presume?
all these 122's going up for sale makes want one, except is gonna be that much harder to sell my 112 when theres a handful of 122's to choose from.
Good luck, keep us posted on your progress!
Find yourself a 122, and i'll take that 112 off of your hands.
Sorry for jumping in on this thread. With your Procharger, how were your TQ numbers in the lower RPM range. I recently had the little P-1 installed and several people told me I would not make decent low end numbers with ANY model Procharger . I ended up with 515 RWTQ @ 2800 RPMs , 540 RWTQ @around 3100 RPMs. Stock internals except for a cam and 6 pounds of boost with an A/4
Thanks
John
I don't think there is any way you are making that much torque with a P1 at 3100 rpm's. Can you post your dyno chart? For example, I have a 402 stroker with 3.73 gears so my engine will naturally make a lot more torque than yours down low and with my F1A I'm making about 480 rwtq at 3000. With my 122 maggie I was making about 580 rwtq at that same rpm. The difference between the procharger and the maggie happens at 4,500 rpm's where the procharger torque crosses over the maggie torque and rises while the maggie's stays flat. At 6000 rpm the F1 has 655 rwtq while the maggie was at 540. Since most racing is done above 4500 rpm that's where the extra torque from the procharger will make the car faster.
I don't think there is any way you are making that much torque with a P1 at 3100 rpm's. Can you post your dyno chart? For example, I have a 402 stroker with 3.73 gears so my engine will naturally make a lot more torque than yours down low and with my F1A I'm making about 480 rwtq at 3000. With my 122 maggie I was making about 580 rwtq at that same rpm. The difference between the procharger and the maggie happens at 4,500 rpm's where the procharger torque crosses over the maggie torque and rises while the maggie's stays flat. At 6000 rpm the F1 has 655 rwtq while the maggie was at 540. Since most racing is done above 4500 rpm that's where the extra torque from the procharger will make the car faster.
Already posted my sheet before. Don't have a scanner so I had to take a picture of it with my cell phone and down load it. Will try and do it again. Not sure why the TQ peaks at such low RPMs. Maybe it has something to do with a Non Blower cam or a 3600 stall. Just don't know
There are a few people on this web site that know me including one of our sponsers that installed and tuned the P-1. It does make that TQ at those RPMs.
On the Mustang Dyno it made 6 lbs boost. Thought about a D-1 or F-1 before the P-1 went in but this is a 100% street car and stock internals except for a cam. No need to over stress the motor so the boost it is making now is where it will stay.
Before the P-1 install it made 430 WTQ @ 3300 RPM. 397 WHP @ 6300 .
Already posted my sheet one time before. Don't have a scanner so I had to take a picture of it will my cell phone and down load it. I have two sheets from runs on two different days. One had 531 WTQ and the other 540 WTQ. My TQ just drops off after its peak at around 3200 RPMs and I am not sure if that is because of a Non Blower cam or a 3600 stall. It is a street only car, never been to a track and only played with other cars on the road a few times. There are a few people on this web site that know me . It does make that much TQ down low.
Before the P-1 install it made 430 WTQ @ 3300 RPM. 397 WHP @ 6300 . so I gained 100 TQ & HP with the little P1
OK I was wondering if that was you. I vaguely remember that dyno curve. I think the low rpm peaks were a combination of your stall and the dyno causing that anomoly on the curve. If you think about it from a physics standpoint your stock engine with a cam would not be actually making 540 rwtq at 3000 rpm and then suddenly drop off to more realistic numbers. You can't always take experimental results at full face value. When you get some results that significantly differ from a well established data set (ie. centrifugal supercharged engine dyno curves), you either need to assume they are in error for some reason or you need to confirm their accuracy on different dynos ideally by taking your tranny out of the picture. A stall won't add torque to your engine, it is designed to optimize your torque output to accelerating your vehicle. I guarantee if you put your engine on an engine dyno you would not see the same results. In other words if I had your car I would assume the low hp/tq results are false due likely to your stalled auto tricking the dyno. I'm definitely not trying to be an ass, just giving you my unbiased opinion.
OK I was wondering if that was you. I vaguely remember that dyno curve. I think the low rpm peaks were a combination of your stall and the dyno causing that anomoly on the curve. If you think about it from a physics standpoint your stock engine with a cam would not be actually making 540 rwtq at 3000 rpm and then suddenly drop off to more realistic numbers. You can't always take experimental results at full face value. When you get some results that significantly differ from a well established data set (ie. centrifugal supercharged engine dyno curves), you either need to assume they are in error for some reason or you need to confirm their accuracy on different dynos ideally by taking your tranny out of the picture. A stall won't add torque to your engine, it is designed to optimize your torque output to accelerating your vehicle. I guarantee if you put your engine on an engine dyno you would not see the same results. In other words if I had your car I would assume the low hp/tq results are false due likely to your stalled auto tricking the dyno. I'm definitely not trying to be an ass, just giving you my unbiased opinion.
I know you are not being an ass. Just never understood why it made that TQ at such low rpms.
Whats really odd is that in August 09 I went to Car show and they had a Dyno Jet. Put my car on their machine just for the hell of it and the TQ peaked @ around 3300 RPMs and the graph just about flat lined after that. On any dyno, my TQ & HP always cross each other at around 5100 RPMs. It seems to be consistant from One Dyno to another
As far as a converter tricking a Dyno. Never heard of that and if it is possible I could see it happing once but not everytime a car is on a machine .
Enjoy your new set up. sorry for jumping in on this tread.