^^^I was fixing to post the same thing. Did they tell you this before the inspection that it would cost 600? Or is this a way to get more money out of you because you found a better option and not them?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabraxas-[DOOSH...
]I fit with two other guys in the back of a Mustang.
I went aamco years ago with my oldsmobile and they told me I needed a new rearend not a trans. I went to a junk yard and got a whole new rear end assembly. Turns out it was my tranny. What a bunch of ass clowns. I hate that place.
06 SRM A4 17"s*PS Coated LT's*Catless*Wretched Motor Sports H-Pipe*Spintech Super Pro St*LPE CAI*MSD*NGK*YANK 3600*180*Thermo*Derale Trans cooler*15% Tint*Debadged*FRC's removed*Angry Goat emblems*Headlight Armor tinted tail lights*Tuned by some guy at Vengeance*Countermeasures: Passport 9500 ix* Vengeance Heads and Cam package coming soon*
Yes,
it was agreed upon that to open the trans, find out what's wrong, and close it back would cost $600. I told him the symptoms and he made it seem like it was something simple. It took him a couple of days to figure out what it needed. I was expecting it to cost me $800 or $1,000 at most. I was referred to them by a good friend of mine who had excellent services with them. But, what I did not know till yesterday was these great services were performed in Kansas City in the late 70's. During that time they would rebuild a whole transmission for $390. So, that's why I agreed to do it.
When I told AAMCO to LEAVE IT OPEN and only charge me $300, a tow truck ($120.00 from Waukegan to Round Lake) is a phone call a way, and all he had to do was box up my trans and parts. He said "I don't think I can do that, it's in our policy to return the car to how it came, so you still owe me $620".
I really need some help on this one guys. I have a 2004 GTO, 46,000 miles. The only thing done to it is CAI K&N + short RIP SHIFTER + Diablo programming. I hardly ever race my car.
It all started out with a strange "grinding" noise that comes about whenever I accelerate from 0mph (whether from 1st or 2nd). It seems to be coming from the rear, so a mechanic told me it might be the differential. So I decided to change the differential fluid and see if that helps eliminate the noise. And then the problems began:
Took it for an oil + trans + diff fluid change at a garage down the street. Same day, shifting into 4th made a "crunching" noise. Kept doing it for a week, about 90% of the time. Same noise when shifting to 6. "Grinding" noise still there.
Took it to dealership, they said trans + diff fluid is not right color. They changed the fluids to the correct ones. Noise while shifting into 4th reduced to about 30% of the time.
They told me the "grinding" noise was coming from the exhaust "flexing" when accelerating, more specifically the heat shields were loose. They tightened them up, but still the noise continues.
Suddenly, shifting it into 1st made a very loud "crunching" noise. Took it straight to transmission shop, they told me:
1. The cluctch is burned along with the fly wheel
2. synchros all damaged, including reverse synchro
3. forks worn out
4. blocking rings and cones need replacement
So, they quoted me about $6,800 to REBUILD the trans and install a new clutch assembly. OR $5,500 to get a NEW trans and clutch assembly.
Is all this necessary? Am I getting ripped off here?
Thank you for taking the time to read this and I appreciate any feedback.
I gotta make a decision by tomorrow morning.
I had a similar noise on my 04 it was the rear exhaust pipe slipping out half way causing it to grind onto the ABS Reluctor ring ( They are left and right of the diff pumpkin on the axle stubs)
Would only happen the first few feet after taking of from a stop.
AAMCO is charging me $600 for the inspection.
I tried to have him leave my trans open, but says their policy is to put it together they way it came. I was willing to have a tow company send it to Val's as is. Did not want him to touch it.
So, gotta wait till Monday for him to close it up.
Thanks for all your advice everyone. I'll keep you all updated.
Dude. I had a clutch job DONE for $745 in labor. They are charging you $600 to diagnose it? And didn't let you see it? I'm assuming they took it out for that kinda money. But they should have had it open for you to look at when you got down there, like any good shop will. At least where I have trannys done they do. I spent about $1600 on good stuff from Tick and $750 on labor. My transmission wasn't dead though. It cost me $800 to ship a car from Houston Texas to New Mexico. Only costs about $1200 to ship one across the country. You actually could SHIP your car to TickShift or another site sponsor, have them fix it right and ship it BACK for less than those crooks are trying to charge you, unreal. And I'm assuming they are going to the dealer for parts. Which explains some of the cost. Anyway, let us know how it goes cuz damn that bites.
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Pontiacs I've owned 1967 GTO,Damn I miss her.1986 T/A Traded her for the 06.And 2006 GTO,1 of 390!!
Last edited by Ponchonut : 11-02-2009 at 10:58 PM.
You either need to pull the transmission yourself, and have someone rebuild it. Or take the car to someone who knows what theyre doing, and wont rip you off. After talking with the guys at Tick Performance at the LSX Shootout, and ordering some parts from them, they will definitely get my business whenever I grenade this transmission.
So,
Now he's trying to keep my car, so I told him that a tow truck will be there at 4 pm I want the car open / close and I will pay $620. He keeps trying to keep my car, telling me oh my boss really wants to work out a deal and I would hate to see your money go to waste.
Then I asked for his bosses number and customer service number and he gives me a bogus one.
I drive over there and he says my transmission is at their libertyville branch.
I told him again, a tow truck will be here in two hours have the trans back here. He says okay.
He then calls me up and tells me his boss wants to do it at cost. I tell him no. Then he says, okay, then your car will be ready for pick up bring cash. I said you have a sign that says you accept credit cards, why do you want it in cash? He says, I'm giving you what you want and how you want it, now give me what I want and how I want it.
I agreed to pay the $600 so it's his right. I'm hoping he didn't steal anything. The trans is still not here.
I'm here now waiting for the trans and tow truck.
^^^ yeah i would def have moved past the talking stage and i WOULD have my car out of there ASAP with ALL the parts!!! get the police or something involved before this gets worse... sure they have your signature for the $600 for what thats worth but that does not mean that they can hold your car hostage! it is your desision if you want to get your car out of their shop at ANY time
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Mods Kooks 1 3/4in LTS, no cats, Magnaflow exhaust, K&N CAI, Port and Polished stock throttle body, UD Pulley, 114/116 cam, dyno tune 387 rwhp 361 rwtq
I really need some help on this one guys. I have a 2004 GTO, 46,000 miles. The only thing done to it is CAI K&N + short RIP SHIFTER + Diablo programming. I hardly ever race my car.
It all started out with a strange "grinding" noise that comes about whenever I accelerate from 0mph (whether from 1st or 2nd). It seems to be coming from the rear, so a mechanic told me it might be the differential. So I decided to change the differential fluid and see if that helps eliminate the noise. And then the problems began:
Took it for an oil + trans + diff fluid change at a garage down the street. Same day, shifting into 4th made a "crunching" noise. Kept doing it for a week, about 90% of the time. Same noise when shifting to 6. "Grinding" noise still there.
Took it to dealership, they said trans + diff fluid is not right color. They changed the fluids to the correct ones. Noise while shifting into 4th reduced to about 30% of the time.
They told me the "grinding" noise was coming from the exhaust "flexing" when accelerating, more specifically the heat shields were loose. They tightened them up, but still the noise continues.
Suddenly, shifting it into 1st made a very loud "crunching" noise. Took it straight to transmission shop, they told me:
1. The cluctch is burned along with the fly wheel
2. synchros all damaged, including reverse synchro
3. forks worn out
4. blocking rings and cones need replacement
So, they quoted me about $6,800 to REBUILD the trans and install a new clutch assembly. OR $5,500 to get a NEW trans and clutch assembly.
Is all this necessary? Am I getting ripped off here?
Thank you for taking the time to read this and I appreciate any feedback.
I gotta make a decision by tomorrow morning.
Check with RPM transmissions. You will get a much better trans at a much lower price
So,
when the tow truck showed up, the guys says, "the trans is here, we were just waiting on your tow truck".
Got my car up on the truck and the trans in pieces, dropped it off at Vals.
Filed a complaint with the BBB and AAMCO corporate.