Plus friggin 1...I don't understand how everyone claims the strut top/RR bushing is to blame for the strut rub, when that distance is fixed by the camber adjustment screw and the strut to knuckle bolts. There isn't any rubber controlling that distance! None!
I bet the reason this "fixes" the problem for everyone is when you replace the strut top bushing you have to disassemble the strut/knuckle, and then reassemble it. Then you get it aligned to the proper specs and viola, everything is fixed.
I don't think anyone has said it is not the alignment. The problem is, if you don't replace the worn bushings and strut mounts, the alignment quickly goes right back out again.
Also, can someone tell me if it is possible to put the sway bar links in backwards (assuming they are on the correct sides of course). I was not to 'convinced' on how they fit on. They seemed to be pulling a bit too much one way. Also, I'm trying to find an illustration of how the RR bushings (where they connect to the control arm) exactly fit in. I am not too sure on that one either.
I don't think anyone has said it is not the alignment. The problem is, if you don't replace the worn bushings and strut mounts, the alignment quickly goes right back out again.
So how do any of the front bushings affect the angle at which the wheel is to the strut? The only thing keeping the tire from contacting the strut is 2 M14 bolts and the camber adjustment screw. If your screw is set to the appropriate alignment setting and you're properly torquing your bolts, how can that angle change?
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So how do any of the front bushings affect the angle at which the wheel is to the strut? The only thing keeping the tire from contacting the strut is 2 M14 bolts and the camber adjustment screw. If your screw is set to the appropriate alignment setting and you're properly torquing your bolts, how can that angle change?
Not going to go through the same argument again. There are a couple of threads that have all the information that you need. I happen to agree with the guys from Pedders, and their solution worked for me. The strut mounts and the RR bushings that I removed were in bad shape, and replacing them and getting an alignment fixed some horrible strut rub..
Not going to go through the same argument again. There are a couple of threads that have all the information that you need. I happen to agree with the guys from Pedders, and their solution worked for me. The strut mounts and the RR bushings that I removed were in bad shape, and replacing them and getting an alignment fixed some horrible strut rub..
Have you actually looked at your suspension? Or did you just look at the parts the Pedders dealer took off your car.
2004 GTO Owner
