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Old 04-10-2012, 08:29 AM   #31
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when you open the hood, right there on the top of the engine, you can see a big wing nut holding on to a bolt that passes right through the engine, look underneath the car and you will see the bolt head sticking out of the pan, no they are not in line, if they were, then the crank would not be able to go round without hitting it.

whatever you do, don't undo the wing nut or the bolt! the engine will come apart the moment you try to start it!

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Old 04-10-2012, 08:35 AM   #32
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The 5-40 rotella sucks. They lowered zinc to 1200 ppm, it is not synthetic, it's a group 3.
My katana shifted like crap with it. VW tdi owners using it saw turbos go out, there are oil analysis show the crap sheering down to a 5-40
After 1600 miles. I used to use it exclusively in my vw tdi and katana, but not anymore as the new t6 stuff is crap.
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:38 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsclark...View Post
The 5-40 rotella sucks. They lowered zinc to 1200 ppm, it is not synthetic, it's a group 3.
My katana shifted like crap with it. VW tdi owners using it saw turbos go out, there are oil analysis show the crap sheering down to a 5-40
After 1600 miles. I used to use it exclusively in my vw tdi and katana, but not anymore as the new t6 stuff is crap.

Wow. First negative feedback I have heard from it. That makes me question it a little. I looked at BITOG and there was a "2010 Oil Test" thread. Had all the samples sent in and tested. Rotella came out in the top 10 I believe. Has it changed since then?
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:42 AM   #34
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What I found seems to be for the 15w-40 Diesel Rotella Oil. It originally ha a CI-4 rating with 1278/1555 (P/Zn ppm). The new Rotella is a CJ-4 rating with 843/946. This was due to the new diesel trucks having cats. Emissions can be a bitch sometimes
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:46 AM   #35
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Just found this as well. Doesn't seem like the 5w-40 was really changed by the looks of this:


Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic analysis
Sent off a sample from a new bottle of Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic last week. The manufacture date was January 27, 2012 and it's CJ-4/SM rated (diesel/gas). Good zinc content of 1257ppm and was in line with some used analyses I've seen. For comparison, Valvoline Racing street oil that is supposed to be higher zinc only has about 1000ppm. This sells for around $20 a gallon at Wal-Mart. Looks like a good oil for some more aggressive flat tappets and rollers, or any regular cam to help provide good ring seal and increased protection of pivot and sliding points. My builder said shoot for at least 1400ppm for race type cams with extreme spring pressures. Going to switch to this when I'm out of the Summit Racing oil.



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Old 04-10-2012, 08:47 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slacker83...View Post
I used to run it in my tl1000r all the time and it worked awesome, planning on using it in my zx14. I was thinking about using it in my gto but not sure if I'm sold on it yet.

Steve

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Old 04-10-2012, 08:54 AM   #37
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Shell T6 5W40 is what I use ... I believe it offers better protection for valve tips (nonroller) and cam lobes whether roller or not. I also live in Houston where it is hot most of the time.

My first cam (xer lobes) lost 3ea lobes after 66k miles and I was using a 5w30 synthetic. I switched to T6 after replacing the cam in hopes of finding better protection and longevity for the cam. Cam was examined by manufacturer after failure and they stated it was not a soft core.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:06 AM   #38
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[quote =Falco21;8345124]Wow. First negative feedback I have heard from it. That makes me question it a little. I looked at BITOG and there was a "2010 Oil Test" thread. Had all the samples sent in and tested. Rotella came out in the top 10 I believe. Has it changed since then?[/quote]

Question all you want- I remember changing out the old rotella 5-40
With the new 5-40 and it shifted like crap after 100 miles.
I posted this on a bike forum and all the rotella nuts wingers
Came out And said my bike had a bad tranny. Well, dumped that rotella crap, put in some good synthetic and it has run great ever since. Remember, rotella is
Not synthetic!
The vw's that had turbo failures all had bluing on the turbo shafts all had rotella t6.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:15 AM   #39
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But it is a Synthetic. In fact, on Shell's website it even calls it a "full synthetic". Not to mention it reads synthetic on the bottle
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:24 AM   #40
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They swear by it on the WRX forums.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:26 AM   #41
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I believe the term "Synthetic" legally includes hydrocracked Grp III base oils in the good ole USofA, but not everywhere. I also believe there is more than just Grp III in it but who really knows ... Shell isn't going to tell. T6 works for me and I am happy with it in my vehicle.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:58 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsclark...View Post

Question all you want- I remember changing out the old rotella 5-40
With the new 5-40 and it shifted like crap after 100 miles.
I posted this on a bike forum and all the rotella nuts wingers
Came out And said my bike had a bad tranny. Well, dumped that rotella crap, put in some good synthetic and it has run great ever since. Remember, rotella is
Not synthetic!
The vw's that had turbo failures all had bluing on the turbo shafts all had rotella t6.

Forced performance did a test a few years back after people were having turbo issues on dsm's and they told people to stay away from mobile 1

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:59 AM   #43
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Way too many good reviews to warrant anything bad about it. I will give a shot. I don't see the harm in trying it. Definitely can't get louder than it already is LOL
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:00 PM   #44
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I'm going to be putting it in the Goat this weekend. I've ready many great reviews on BITOG. It has about about 1200 ppm zddp.

Last edited by C5Shark; 04-10-2012 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:30 PM   #45
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Iv been running it in my Duramax for the last year. Quieted the motor down a lot over using the Mobil delvac I had been using. Stuff lasts 5-6k miles in a diesel motor, should be just fine for our ls motors. $20 for a gallon at the wallyworld.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:33 PM   #46
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A lot of the marine guys like it, no cat's there either ! The Rotella T 15w40 is not synthetic and is the diesel oriented product. The 5w40 is synthetic and is listed for different applications.

I'd suggest you need to examine the specs beyond the Rotella and weight designations as there are more specific applications with different blends and additives.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:37 PM   #47
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We've run it for 4,000 miles in the 408
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:23 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C5Shark...View Post
I'm going to be putting it in the Goat this weekend. I've ready many great reviews on BITOG. It has about about 1200 ppm zddp.

Post up your experience with it in here. I can't wait to put it in
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:39 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falco21...View Post
But it is a Synthetic. In fact, on Shell's website it even calls it a "full synthetic". Not to mention it reads synthetic on the bottle

By virtue of a lawsuit in the USA, hydrocracked dino oil can be called "synthetic"
Real synthetic is pao/easter oil. Most people are too stupid to know the
difference, pao/ester is the real deal, better performing.
In Europe, you can't pass off dino oil as synthetic.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:37 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsclark...View Post
By virtue of a lawsuit in the USA, hydrocracked dino oil can be called "synthetic"
Real synthetic is pao/easter oil. Most people are too stupid to know the
difference, pao/ester is the real deal, better performing.
In Europe, you can't pass off dino oil as synthetic.

I guess I fall in the "too stupid" category LOL

Wasn't aware of those facts. Good to know though
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:28 PM   #51
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Well, unless you are planning to get oil analyses, whether Rotella is a "true" synthetic or not is irrelevant. Rotella may work better for your application than a PAO/ester: you'll never know unless you're willing to invest the time and expense to really look at your oil. Unless someone has done that for a car similar to yours and can definitively prove it is, do what you want. For the average enthusiast, choice of motor oil is about as subjective as it gets.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:48 PM   #52
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Use it in my 3 motorcycles and 2 of my 3 cars... The GTO gets synthetic only....
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:25 PM   #53
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Just bought 2 big jugs of it today!

Going to put it in when I install the new clutch in the next few weeks, so no update right now.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:38 PM   #54
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I bought 2 today also and after my bike is broke in I'll be buying another.


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Old 04-16-2012, 09:42 AM   #55
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Made the switch to T6 today...she seems happy. Maybe more so than with M 0w40.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:14 AM   #56
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I changed mine on Saturday, so far so good. Also put mobile atf in the tranny and it seems happy as well. Now this weekend will be the torco in the diff.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:47 AM   #57
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This is making me excited! LOL

I won't have mine in for a little while, but it seems to have been the right choice to go with it. Nice to try something new with such great feedback
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:21 AM   #58
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Old thread, but just wanted to update on this:

I did put it in when I said I was going to and it has been running GREAT for a long time now. I will be doing another oil change this coming weekend before a long trip home and will be going with it again. Seems to be a great cheaper option!
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:04 AM   #59
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i run the 15w40 in mine all the time. probably the last 4 oil changes (which is like 2+ years haha) and its been great.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:22 AM   #60
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i run the 15w40 in mine all the time. probably the last 4 oil changes (which is like 2+ years haha) and its been great.

Yeah definitely worth it. I'm glad I researched this
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