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Old 11-09-2012, 07:04 PM   #61
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IAT's ?????
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:34 PM   #62
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took a better look and referred to Maggie instructions. Here is what I have

Reservoir ---- pump ----- Front mount heat exchanger -----maggie ------heater core ------topside of reservoir

so mine is going right from the maggie to the heater core then back into the maggie reservoir. Sound right ?
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:36 PM   #63
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IAT's ?????

Only had time for a quick spin and was checking the water temps to get a clear idea what it was doing to the water. Will have lots more info after tomarrow/ raceday Still supposed to be 55 degrees and no wind
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:12 PM   #64
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Glad that you were able to get it all hooked up. Did you end up bypassing the valve the was on the heater lines? Good luck at the races.

Tony O
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:20 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by dlively11...View Post
took a better look and referred to Maggie instructions. Here is what I have

Reservoir ---- pump ----- Front mount heat exchanger -----maggie ------heater core ------topside of reservoir

so mine is going right from the maggie to the heater core then back into the maggie reservoir. Sound right ?

With that routing you may still have a working heater in the winter. I would still put the heater core between the heat exchanger and the Maggie. Just my 2
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:19 PM   #66
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Glad that you were able to get it all hooked up. Did you end up bypassing the valve the was on the heater lines? Good luck at the races.

Tony O

no I just used the long end of the hoses. Got a PB 11.85@118 with a 1.85 60 foot. 7.6@95 MPH 8th got a 11.86 on the next run. Has more in her for sure.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:21 PM   #67
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With that routing you may still have a working heater in the winter. I would still put the heater core between the heat exchanger and the Maggie. Just my 2

No heater at all. Cold drive home. Not really sure how to route it any other way when you look at how the water flows from the Maggie and the FMHE.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:23 PM   #68
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Well no solid results yet.

I didnt get much of a drop at all in IATs when cruising with it on or off. At the track though I never got over 120 IAT even when I did 4 hot laps within 15 minutes of each other. Water stayed pretty cool at about 70 degrees even after beating on it like that. It was cool out though (55 degrees) so I dont really know.

I can say for $30 in parts and 20 minutes to swap out it is certainly worth it in the summer to switch your car over.

Another thing is my cars AC has never worked really well. Not sure if it is low on gas or what. I would imagine that could really effect performance on something like this. I'll get my gas level checked ASAP to rule that out.

Last edited by dlively11; 11-10-2012 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:06 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by dlively11...View Post
Well no solid results yet.

I didnt get much of a drop at all in IATs when cruising with it on or off. At the track though I never got over 120 IAT even when I did 4 hot laps within 15 minutes of each other. Water stayed pretty cool at about 70 degrees even after beating on it like that. It was cool out though (55 degrees) so I dont really know.

I can say for $30 in parts and 20 minutes to swap out it is certainly worth it in the summer to switch your car over.

Another thing is my cars AC has never worked really well. Not sure if it is low on gas or what. I would imagine that could really effect performance on something like this. I'll get my gas level checked ASAP to rule that out.

It's the heat soak, unless you run the full system like that video I posted you'll see a minuscule amount of performance increase but where the heater core mod shines is the part where it lets you reduce the heatsoak. Good job like i said on your other thread man!!!!
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:42 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlively11...View Post
Well no solid results yet.

I didnt get much of a drop at all in IATs when cruising with it on or off. At the track though I never got over 120 IAT even when I did 4 hot laps within 15 minutes of each other. Water stayed pretty cool at about 70 degrees even after beating on it like that. It was cool out though (55 degrees) so I dont really know.

I can say for $30 in parts and 20 minutes to swap out it is certainly worth it in the summer to switch your car over.

Another thing is my cars AC has never worked really well. Not sure if it is low on gas or what. I would imagine that could really effect performance on something like this. I'll get my gas level checked ASAP to rule that out.

I am envious of you getting out to the track to be able to do some actual testing. All of the 1/4 mile tracks I used to run on years ago are all closed.
70 degrees compared to 110 is not bad even though as you stated ambient temperatures were quite a bit lower also. I am assuming that you are taking the reading in the tank after it has gone through the other parts of the system and was heated by the inter cooler then cooled by the heat exchanger. I am curious as to what the temperature would be after the coolant left the heater core although if your AC is not running at peak efficiency it that could definately be holding this back a bit. Even if IATs are not that much lower the ability to keep them consistant would really be a plus for bracket racing. I guess I really want to see this work successfully since as you mentioned $30 and 20 minutes would be a nice alternative or addition to $300 plus alot more time and effort for a new dual pass front heat exchanger that still faces the challenge of trying to drop temps in the summer with my 100 -110 degree ambient temps. Thanks again for sharing your results.

Last edited by Ondatrack; 11-11-2012 at 04:42 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:50 AM   #71
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I am envious of you getting out to the track to be able to do some actual testing. All of the 1/4 mile tracks I used to run on years ago are all closed.
70 degrees compared to 110 is not bad even though as you stated ambient temperatures were quite a bit lower also. I am assuming that you are taking the reading in the tank after it has gone through the other parts of the system and was heated by the inter cooler then cooled by the heat exchanger. I courious as to what the temperature would be after the coolant left the heater core although if your AC is not running at peak efficiency it that could definately be holding this back a bit. Even if IATs are not that much lower the ability to keep them consistant would really be a plus for bracket racing. I guess I really want to see this work successfully since as you mentioned $30 and 20 minutes would be a nice alternative or addition to $300 plus alot more time and effort for a new dual pass front heat exchanger that still faces the challenge of trying to drop temps in the summer with my 100 -110 degree ambient temps. Thanks again for sharing your results.

Yes I take the temps with the pump running at the reservoir. When I did 4 hot laps and my mPH didnt change at all I'd have to think it is helping despite it being 55 degrees out. I think it really help to keep things in check. Will be very curious to see how it does on a warmer day. Dont think I can leave it like this very long , its gets pretty damn cold with no heater. you get ZERO heating with it connected this way. Would be nice to rig it up with some valves to switch back and forth for track or DD. I'd leave it connected like this at least 8 months of the year personally. My water temps just never heated up much at all and I would think after the fourth 1/4 run in 15 minutes it would have atleast gotten to 90 or 100 degrees.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #72
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It's the heat soak, unless you run the full system like that video I posted you'll see a minuscule amount of performance increase but where the heater core mod shines is the part where it lets you reduce the heatsoak. Good job like i said on your other thread man!!!!

I think there is more to be had if I got my AC running like it should . I know those chiller Killers get the res temp down to the 30s with stock tank until you get into boost. My understanding was the larger tanks just let you keep your temps lower for longer under boost.
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #73
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There are guys that don't run a tank at all. If you don't run a tank you just wouldn't have a reserve of cool water, but if the tank is hot from under hood temps you didn't have that anyway. Really if the coolant flow is anything other than option 2, I don't see getting anything worth while out of this. The object is to get the coolest water possible to the supercharger. Between the the tank, heat exchanger, and heater core the heater core has the best chance at cooling so it should be the last thing the water goes thru before the supercharger. The second best chance at cooling and this will never get it below ambient is the heat exchanger so it goes before the heater core. Ice in the tank works but it is going to be heated by the heat exchanger, but not enough to worry about. Now that we have that worked out, forget about the heater valve and bypass that thing all together. Put the loop hose on the water pump, and connect the heater core into the Maggie system at the firewall or use adapters to connect to the hoses coming out of the firewall. Now get your a/c fixed cause mine feels like I'm in Siberia.
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:55 PM   #74
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I'm going to do this once I get moved.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:14 PM   #75
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There are guys that don't run a tank at all. If you don't run a tank you just wouldn't have a reserve of cool water, but if the tank is hot from under hood temps you didn't have that anyway. Really if the coolant flow is anything other than option 2, I don't see getting anything worth while out of this. The object is to get the coolest water possible to the supercharger. Between the the tank, heat exchanger, and heater core the heater core has the best chance at cooling so it should be the last thing the water goes thru before the supercharger. The second best chance at cooling and this will never get it below ambient is the heat exchanger so it goes before the heater core. Ice in the tank works but it is going to be heated by the heat exchanger, but not enough to worry about. Now that we have that worked out, forget about the heater valve and bypass that thing all together. Put the loop hose on the water pump, and connect the heater core into the Maggie system at the firewall or use adapters to connect to the hoses coming out of the firewall. Now get your a/c fixed cause mine feels like I'm in Siberia.


So you are saying go from the heater core directly to the maggie, this does make sense for coolest water I guess. The idea behind having it go to your reservoir is you have a nice reserve of cold water but its all still be circulated into the system anyway. Seems like if you have it go to the Maggie first you wont build up as much cool water Still trying to wrap my head around how to route this the way you have described.

Heater core needs to have water being pushed in one side and exit the other side. So what you are saying I assume is have the water go right from the reservoir to the pump and straight to the heater core then to the maggie then to the heat exchanger and back to the reservoir again ?

Well I'd say it ws worth the mod after seeing my track results. I hot lapped it four times in 15 minutes. Last run was within 2 minutes of previous run. My IATs still never got over 120. Water still stayed pretty cool at around 70 degrees in the reservoir. Was cool out but not cold. 55 degrees and under the hood was nice and hot. On hot days I used to see 100-110 in my res. Wont know for sure unless I run it on hotter days I suppose. Oh and my final run two minutes after previous I actually trapped almost 1 MPH faster. Was my fastest trap of the night.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:17 AM   #76
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How bout we all try different configurations then do side by side tests


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Old 11-12-2012, 10:53 AM   #77
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My next configuration is going to be connecting the water pump back up so I can get some freaking heat ! Its cold out now !
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:32 PM   #78
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I am going to be trying this out tomorrow. Going to route the fluid coming out of the front mount heat exchanger into the heater core, then from the heater core into the blower. From the blower it will go into the stock Maggie tank. Also going to go to a dual nozzle setup on my AIS meth kit as my single is not flowing enough to cool the blower, running 50/50 meth/H2O now.

Only bad thing is it is so cold now, it will be harder to see how much this all helps.

Anyone know what exact sizes the two hoses are that you need to loop to take the heater core out of the stock coolant loop. Anyone find a reducer fitting anywhere to easily loop the different size hoses?
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:00 PM   #79
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The hose ends would be 3/4 and 5/8. The u bend hose you need is Dayco #87629, Autozone #B87629 or Kelly Springfield #s-4354. You need to trim 1 inch from the 5/8 side to make it even. It should be under $10. Good luck tomorrow and let us know the results.

Tony O.

Last edited by Ondatrack; 11-24-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:12 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by Ondatrack...View Post
The hose ends would be 3/4 and 5/8. The u bend hose you need is Dayco #87629, Autozone #B87629 or Kelly Springfield #s-4354. You need to trim 1 inch from the 5/8 side to make it even. It should be under $10. Good luck tomorrow and let us know the results.

Tony O.


This ^^

You can just check the water temp once it heats up and you do some runs with the system off. Then turn it on and see what the temps do. With a good AC this should work pretty well.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:40 PM   #81
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The hose ends would be 3/4 and 5/8. The u bend hose you need is Dayco #87629, Autozone #B87629 or Kelly Springfield #s-4354. You need to trim 1 inch from the 5/8 side to make it even. It should be under $10. Good luck tomorrow and let us know the results.

Tony O.

Cool, thanks. So does this ubend account for the two different hose diameters or are you just clamping down on the one end to seal it on a small male end? Does that make sense?

Edit: nevermind, I see it does have two different diameters.

I understand that you need to have the a/c on and set to full hot to cool the intercooler coolant the most with this setup. However, someone mentioned something about restricted coolant flow if you turn the temp nob to full cool....is that true? Like if I am just cruising, and don't care to cool the supercharger coolant, but want the cabin cooler, am I able to still do that without restricting the flow of supercharger coolant? Can I still have the a/c on set to cold to chill the cabin?

Last edited by stl_ls1gto; 11-24-2012 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:53 PM   #82
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Cool, thanks. So does this ubend account for the two different hose diameters or are you just clamping down on the one end to seal it on a small male end? Does that make sense?

Edit: nevermind, I see it does have two different diameters.

I understand that you need to have the a/c on and set to full hot to cool the intercooler coolant the most with this setup. However, someone mentioned something about restricted coolant flow if you turn the temp nob to full cool....is that true? Like if I am just cruising, and don't care to cool the supercharger coolant, but want the cabin cooler, am I able to still do that without restricting the flow of supercharger coolant? Can I still have the a/c on set to cold to chill the cabin?

That hose has a 5/8 on one end and a 3/4 on the other.

Yes you can use your Ac like normal , no problem. you are still going to get a little better cooling on your IC since it is now going through the heater core as well.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:30 AM   #83
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That hose has a 5/8 on one end and a 3/4 on the other.

Yes you can use your Ac like normal , no problem. you are still going to get a little better cooling on your IC since it is now going through the heater core as well.

While your a/c will function, based on the info I can discern from this post, unless you bypassed the valve in the heater core, when you turn the temp knob to cold, you are drastically cutting the flow of coolant down. When the temp knob is set to medium/hot the valve allows coolant to flow through the heater core at full flow (and changes the airflow doors to allow air to pass through the heater core as well). When set to cool, the valve stops flow, or severely impedes it at least, as well as shutting the airflow doors from allowing air to pass through the heater core.

This would be terrible to do, even if just cruising, and will put extra strain on the intercooler pump probably.

My questions about the a/c most corelate to posts 33-36 I believe in this thread. I do want to be able to use my a/c in the car, don't care about the heat. I do not want to ever have the blower coolant flow cut though......how is this valve bypassed?
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:46 AM   #84
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While your a/c will function, based on the info I can discern from this post, unless you bypassed the valve in the heater core, when you turn the temp knob to cold, you are drastically cutting the flow of coolant down. When the temp knob is set to medium/hot the valve allows coolant to flow through the heater core at full flow (and changes the airflow doors to allow air to pass through the heater core as well). When set to cool, the valve stops flow, or severely impedes it at least, as well as shutting the airflow doors from allowing air to pass through the heater core.

This would be terrible to do, even if just cruising, and will put extra strain on the intercooler pump probably.

My questions about the a/c most corelate to posts 33-36 I believe in this thread. I do want to be able to use my a/c in the car, don't care about the heat. I do not want to ever have the blower coolant flow cut though......how is this valve bypassed?

Interesting, I didnt know this. I know that when I have it turned off I can still see lots of water circulating in my reservoir which seems to indicate the water is flowing pretty good
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:45 PM   #85
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When the temperature is set to cold the water valve between the water pump and heater core blocks the majority of the flow from going to the heater core and redirects it through the valve back to the other side of the water pump.
If you put this valve in the flow path of your maggie coolant it would flow through the heater core when the temperature switch is set to hot and it would bypass the heater core but still circulate through the intercooler when the switch is set to cold. I have not looked inside the valve to see how small the diameter is but it would probably be no larger than 5/8 inch at the most.

Tony
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:54 PM   #86
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Bringing this back up since it's summer now. Has anyone else tried this now that it would make sense to run the A/C and not having a working heater isn't a negative. I would really like to see some documented results.

My Maggied car is at the body shop now and hopefully will be on the road within a month and I may give it a try but I will be putting WRP's old trunk mounted tank and dual pass heat exchanger with fans on it at the same time. This will make comparisons to the stock configuration difficult. I cannot help but think that there should be some benefit to this.

Tony O.
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