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Old 05-17-2012, 06:45 AM   #1
kdog_x
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Procharger D1SC Rebuild

So it looks like the time has come to rebuild the D1SC. I have an output shaft seal leak which I'm growing tired of cleaning up after, the rock tumbler sounds are getting worse by the day, and I'm only getting 1/3 of the boost I should be seeing from the unit. (6lbs with a 3.70" pulley)

I placed a call to Procharger to see if it was worth the DIY hassle. I was told inspection was a cost of around $300+shipping which would include the seal replacement. I'm fairly certain the bearings are toasted so I requested a quote for all of the bearings and seals replaced. I'll just say that the price quickly increased well into the 4 figure range!

After reading numerous threads here and on other forums I'm pretty comfortable with the procedure. I have a friend who works at a machine shop so I have access to a press, the unit itself seems fairly simple inside.

I'm going to record the specs on the bearings currently in the unit since there seems to be some variance from unit to unit from what I'm reading. Some reports claim that there are bearings which are only rated to 40k RPM or so (kinda scary if you're spinning at 62k!!)... and others claim that they have 58k RPM ones, which is what I'm hoping to find in there!


To sum it up... it looks like there are 4 radial bearings inside... these are relatively cheap. They are located on the input shaft and the oil gear shaft. Not really too worried about these. Recommended replacements are 34,000 RPM (oil gear shaft) and 14,000 RPM (input shaft) which seems like it should be sufficient.

There is one standard seal and one proprietary seal... as well as a large O-Ring between the two halves of the case

1 ea- National Seal p/n 223020 (input shaft)
1 ea- Output shaft seal (proprietary!)

There are also 2 angular contact bearings which are mounted on the output shaft. These are the workhorse of the whole unit. They are made for high RPM and is what the maximum RPM of the unit is based on. From other threads I see that the following are recommended as stock equivalent replacements:

1 GMN "S 6204 C TA A7"
1 GMN "S 6205 C TA A7"

I looked up GMN's page and it suggests that these are not rated to Prochargers 62,000 RPM maximum!! For oil lubrication GMN says...

the 6204 model is 47mm x 20mm and is rated to 51,000 RPMs
the 6205 model is 52mm x 25mm and is rated to 47,000 RPMs

Keep in mind that both are used on the output shaft. Perhaps they have a higher combined rating or something... not really sure. I suppose they could be allowing them to spin 20% past their rated maximum... but that seems like it would be a major warranty issue.

EDIT: Combinations of angular contact bearings do increase the overall RPM rating for the unit. They can't be simply added together, but the combo above is actually good to almost 70k RPM's

Anyways, these are the highest rated bearings from McMaster Carr for the ABEC-7 model in that size. I have also found a ceramic model of the same size, but I am waiting to hear back from the merchant regarding the maximum RPM of that model.

I've seen a few people who have mentioned acquiring an ABEC-9 model of the same bearing and claiming that it is good to 100,000 RPMs. I have searched many sites (and am still looking) but I have yet to find any ABEC-9 rated bearings in this size. If anyone knows where I could find them I would greatly appreciate it if you could point me in the right direction!! I know moving from ABEC-5 to ABEC-9 on my rollerblades was like unchaining an anchor from your waist, so I would think it would have a very positive effect on the procharger as well. Superchargerrebuuilds.com offers ABEC-7 (58k) and a ceramic version of ABEC-7 (60k), but I have to wonder why they dont offer ABEC-9 if they are actually available. I'm still on the fence about whether the ceramic A7's are worth 50% more than the stainless model only to gain 2,000 RPM's. Either way, I haven't found any rebuilds that really seem to be "complete" with pictures, so I figure I'll make every effort to make a good writeup of my efforts... however they turn out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Powered By V8...View Post
Make sure that impeller bolt isn't a left handed thread. I think I remember reading a how to on breaking down a Procharged HU and they mentioned that.

The impeller bolt was right hand thread. Standard bolt... Lefty Loosey.

I got it pretty much all disassembled today. I can confirm that my unit has the same bearings and the same brands mentioned in most other rebuild threads.

2 ea- Koyo Brand 6000 Radial Bearing (oil gear shaft)
2 ea- Koyo Brand 6206 Radial bearing (input shaft)
1 ea- GMN Brand bearing p/n S 6204 TA A7 (output shaft zero clearance)

Without a press, I could not remove the impeller or get the number off of the final bearing... but since the others were correct, I'm pretty sure it is the following:

1 ea- GMN Brand bearing p/n S 6205 TA A7 (output shaft press-on)

The 6204 bearing actually fell apart as soon as I got the case apart... I'm thinking that may have been related to my problems. There doesn't appear to be any damage to anything inside, so it looks like bearings and seals and I should have the equivalent of a new unit
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #2
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So, first you need a Procharger. If yours is like most, it will have a pool of oil underneath it...



Next, make note of the relationship of the volute to the housing, best to take a picture. You can also remove the pulley at this time, an impact wrench may be necessary depending on how tight it is.



Next remove the fill bolt and the other two fill plugs.



Followed by the 8 allen head bolts that hold the transfer case together



Now, take a small screwdriver and a rubber mallet and VERY carefully pry the transfer case apart. I was able to get it open with just the mallet, but the screwdriver may be needed depending how stuck together it is. Here's the three main components inside, there are two bearings on each component, one is visible and the other is in the casing on the other side of the component. Notice that there are three places that the slinger can be located, mine is on the right... make sure you note the location of yours before you go removing anything.



My output shaft bearing actually fell apart in my hands and ball bearings went everywhere... could have been related to my noise issues Now, remove the oil slinger. Mine came out by hand with a minor amount of force.



Next, remove the snap ring which holds in the output shaft, you'll need decent snap ring pliers for this, I broke the ones pictured and picked up a heavy duty pair.



The input shaft came out fairly easily. It is just an interference fit and can be levered out with the tool of your choice, just don't gouge any surfaces. You can see the inner race of the bearing that fell apart is still on the output shaft. If the whole bearing is still there you may want to remove it to make room to pull the input shaft out. This can be done with a 3-jaw puller or you could just wait until you are ready to remove the output shaft and do them at the same time.



Here's a picture of the rings from the other side of the casing. They're not actually a solid ring, they just overlap. And every one of them was pretty bent up, but I dont think that it hurts anything. They are in most of the holes. The input shaft seal is visible as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KS91Z28...View Post
Those bent up metal rings are called wave springs. They're supposed to be bent like that.


Last edited by kdog_x; 05-17-2012 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #3
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At this point all that's left is the output shaft and the impeller. In my opinion, you will not be able to remove this without a press!! Heating the impeller and cold shocking the output shaft has been recommended as a way to assist in the separation however you go about it. There are two grooves in the bottom of the casing. There is a piece of sheet metal which is covering up one side or the other (mine is on the left as pictured). That is there to keep the oil dipstick from getting entangled with the gears. If yours is reverse rotation the dipstick would come in from the other side and the sheet metal would cover the opposite channel. I pried it up to look under it and to clean debris... but it does not need to be removed for this overhaul.



Go ahead and remove the impeller bolt... the thread is 3/8"-24 if you want to run a tap through it at any point.



I used a piece of steel bar stock to press the shaft out the back and separate it from the impeller. As you can see, the 12 ton press I picked up from harbor freight has a lot of slop in it and didn't like to press straight, which was not the least bit helpful for the process!! I ended up shortening the bar stock to about a 2-3" long piece which worked better than the 10" long piece in the picture. The cat litter is underneath to keep the shaft from bouncing off the floor when it breaks loose.



With the impeller removed, you can see the infamous output shaft seal. It is held in by a snap ring, just like the other side. As pictured, Mine was distorted and had a tear in it which was what was causing my leak.



Here's a comparison of the Procharger seal vs. the one from superchargerrebuilds.com



To remove the input/output shaft bearings you should use a bearing splitter and a press as pictured, although other methods could conceivably be used as well.



Reinstalling the bearings is done pretty much the same way, except there is an attachment which goes on the splitter allowing you to push the bearing instead of pull. As I learned later, you don't want to install the outer bearing on the output shaft just yet, or it will be in the way when you install the input shaft. (This is clear if you look at the pictures further down)



Here's where things got rocky!! On my first go round I installed the output shaft first, and then proceeded to install the output shaft seal.

Despite my best efforts, The output seal still rolled up on me and caused a small tear. I could very well have just continued with the rebuild, and just lived with the small oil leak that this would have caused. But the oil leak was half the reason I tore into this to start with, so I waited on a new seal and took a mulligan. Reading up on some other sites, the prefferred method is to use some plastic shim stock (.005") and wrap it around the shaft and then carefully slide it out after installing the seal. So I placed my order for the shim stock and a new seal. Pictured is where the seal rolled up on me. Simply oiling everything up will not keep the seal from rolling up on you!!



As usually happens, then things went even further south!! The shim stock and the new seal both came in. So I rolled up the shim stock, oiled everything up really well, and started tapping the seal into place. What I didn't realize, was that while I was tapping the seal in from the front, I was flexing the angular contact bearing on the other side of the shaft up against the snap ring. I ended up cracking the race that holds all the ball bearings in place, which cost me an expensive bearing... and another week of shipping time!


Last edited by kdog_x; 05-17-2012 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #4
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When the new parts came in, I went with a different approach. This is probably not the only way to do it, but it's what finally ended up working for me. I pressed the output shaft out of the casing. Then I installed the output shaft seal (with no output shaft installed).

I oiled everything up really well and wrapped the shim stock around the output shaft. Then I fed the output shaft into the casing/seal. When the shim stock was far enough through the seal, I put some scotch tape around it to keep it from unrolling.

Here's the view from the bottom. That's as far as the shaft would go in before needing to be pressed.



From the other side, I pressed the output shaft assembly CAREFULLY making sure the seal wasn't rolling up on me. This got the bearing flush with the bore, but is not far enough to put the snap ring back into place.



For the last few mm I pushed the shaft with a piece of flat stock. Once the groove is exposed, the snap ring can be reinstalled. (After checking to make sure your seal didn't roll up on you!!)



Here it is, fully installed. I just had to slide the shim stock out very carefully and it was good to go



Back inside the unit, the input shaft can be installed as pictured. As I mentioned above, the outer bearing on the output shaft should not be installed yet or you will not be able to put the input shaft into place.



Once that is installed, the outer bearing can be installed on the output shaft. Keep in mind, this could all be done with bearing splitters, but with a little oil, everything went together very easily, so the flat stock worked for me. Obviously you should use good judgement to avoid destroying your bearings!



Now the oil slinger can be reinstalled back into its original location, and the o-ring can be installed in the casing




Then the input shaft seal was installed the same way as the output shaft seal.

1)Oil the seal
2)Wrap the shaft
3)Thrust...

wait... maybe that was something else I was thinking of??



Once the two halves of the case are almost touching, the allen head screws can be used to pull it together the last few mm. Just go a few turns at a time and work your wasy around the case.

Last edited by kdog_x; 05-17-2012 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:47 AM   #5
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To ease reinstallation, I cooked the impeller in the oven. 200 degrees for 15 minutes worked nicely. You just need a little expansion... don't test the melting point of the impeller!!



Dont forget the spacer!!



And press the impeller back into place



And that's pretty much it! Hopefully this writeup helps anyone who's contemplating undertaking this project. With parts ordering and setbacks the whole project took me about a month. If I were to do it again and had the parts on hand, it would probably take 4-8 hours. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions!

Last edited by kdog_x; 05-17-2012 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:03 AM   #6
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I'm glad you got it all back together and at a fraction of what it would have cost from Procharger I'm sure.
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CancerJCC...View Post
I'm glad you got it all back together and at a fraction of what it would have cost from Procharger I'm sure.

Yeah, even with having to order a new seal and a replacement bearing I still came in at half of what Procharger was charging. It was definitely a tricky job though, I wouldn't recommend it for everyone!
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:14 PM   #8
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Just thought I'd post an update to say that the procharger is working great now!! No more pool of oil underneath it to clean, the whine is very steady and smooth sounding, and so far I have not had any issues running Royal Purple Synchromesh in the unit in place of the PC oil.

Very happy with the rebuild!!
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:28 PM   #9
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I just helped a buddy rebuild his on his c5 vette. Those things are so simple it isn't even funny! We were able to get it all put together within an hour or so, but he had it tore down already. Nice writeup, I am sure it will help the DIY crowd.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit_Muscle...View Post
I just helped a buddy rebuild his on his c5 vette. Those things are so simple it isn't even funny! We were able to get it all put together within an hour or so, but he had it tore down already. Nice writeup, I am sure it will help the DIY crowd.

Thanks! Yeah, you would expect them to be a lot more complicated, but it's really not bad at all. Trickiest part is getting the seals on without them rolling up on you, other than that it's cake. Even procharger seems to have problems getting the seals installed right, I've seen many people complain about sending the head unit back 2 or 3 times before they're fixed right!
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:26 PM   #11
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Just thought I'd post an update, my Procharger has seen about 2500 miles since rebuild, it sounds great, and still no leaks! It's stored for the winter now, but it will be getting the 3.4" pulley installed so we'll see how it holds up at the max rated speeds next spring!
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:14 PM   #12
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How many miles did you put on it before the rebuild?
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:34 PM   #13
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Subbed, in case I ever have to do this.

*knock on wood*
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:38 AM   #14
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Sub'd as well. Great DIY job.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:47 AM   #15
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"Sub'd" great write up by the way and thanks !
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x...View Post
Just thought I'd post an update, my Procharger has seen about 2500 miles since rebuild, it sounds great, and still no leaks! It's stored for the winter now, but it will be getting the 3.4" pulley installed so we'll see how it holds up at the max rated speeds next spring!

Just thought I'd post an update, it's been a couple of oil changes now... no more pools of oil under the unit and it's pumping out boost with the 3.4" pulley no problem
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #17
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Wow, this is a fantastic rebuild! I was a bit surprised to see the relatively low number of parts and complexity of assembly. It is no small feat I'm sure, but you made it look easy
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:15 PM   #18
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Subbed! Hope I don't have to do this, but I have a feeling I will have to.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:32 PM   #19
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excellent write up, I was thinking about buying used to avoid the huge price tag, this helps...
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawShank...View Post
Wow, this is a fantastic rebuild! I was a bit surprised to see the relatively low number of parts and complexity of assembly. It is no small feat I'm sure, but you made it look easy

Yeah, there aren't too many parts in there. If you are already familiar with using a press, it's a pretty easy process. It took me a little longer because I was not, but I'm sure I could repeat the process in half the time now.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:55 PM   #21
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How about I send mine to you so you can see how long it takes to repeat the process?
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #22
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What was the cost of the rebuild?
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:08 PM   #23
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Awesome write up kdog.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:08 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doric...View Post
How about I send mine to you so you can see how long it takes to repeat the process?

I returned the press after I finished up this job. If I ever do this again I'd get a much sturdier press, Dodging flying bar stock is no fun!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cquist...View Post
What was the cost of the rebuild?

The parts are about $300 for a standard rebuild and $450 to upgrade to ceramic bearings.

Obviously that doesn't include the cost of a press or any other tools. That's also a complete rebuild... it's much cheaper if you're just repairing a leaky seal and not replacing the bearings.


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Originally Posted by Tacos from your dike landlords...View Post
Awesome write up kdog.


Thanks!!

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