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Old 11-26-2012, 08:27 PM   #31
HellaciousA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsme4g63...View Post
he must mean pads by pad hardware, because the pad hardware is the pins plus the tension plate. You can get aftermarket pads from numerous vendors like tirerack or even ebay. Companies like stoptech/ebc/hawk make pads for these calipers. Although the oem brembo pads are damned good too.

Here's what came with part number 89047759:



I just want to make sure I don't need to order the shims/pad retainers, that they'll come with a new set of pads whether its oem or aftermarket. Does the pin kit 89047711 work for both front/rear cts-v calipers?

I'll hopefully be running the 17z brembos up front once bohnman gets the brackets made.
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Last edited by HellaciousA; 11-26-2012 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:21 PM   #32
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Those don't look anything like CTSV hardware. Looks like you got the hardware for a standard CTS.

This is what the hardware kit should look like.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:42 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quiksilver...View Post
Those don't look anything like CTSV hardware. Looks like you got the hardware for a standard CTS.

Yep. No need for slide pins on fixed calipers.

Miker: i am sure you will post the info, but i am particularly interested in how the brake bias will be affected by your pad selection. It seems that the larger rotor would work like a longer tq arm and lead to some extra front bias that would need to be addressed by a more aggressive rear pad. Obviously this is just speculation since ive never driven a car at its absolute limit, let alone doing so on two different setups and felt a difference in bias, so i am counting on you to teach me/us
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:20 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellaciousA...View Post
Here's what came with part number 89047759:


All of that stuff is wrong. You need the shim/pin kit shown above.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:25 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourman...View Post
i am sure you will post the info, but i am particularly interested in how the brake bias will be affected by your pad selection.

Pad compound is a great way to change front/rear bias.

The three things that change bias are pad compound, brake pressure, and rotor size.

When you move to a bigger rotor you gain better leverage on the wheel/tire. This will move the bias to the front; but you can compensate by using a more aggressive rear pad.

I plan on going with rear CTS-v Brembos. I might need to switch to the CTS 1in master. I also might remove the ABS system and install a normal bias control.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:29 AM   #36
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Post 1 updated; waiting for rotors to show up tomorrow.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:12 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quiksilver...View Post
Those don't look anything like CTSV hardware. Looks like you got the hardware for a standard CTS.

This is what the hardware kit should look like.

Aye, he is right! return that junk!
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:50 AM   #38
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Thanks guys, I figured it was wrong when the guy brought out the bag, I'll return them tomorrow and get the correct part number.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:22 PM   #39
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Finally done clearancing the calipers; man that is a sucky job.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #40
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I had a buddy with a machine shop take care of my calipers. I think it was worth the money I paid him.



I like the brakes. During bed-in the ABS would cycle. Apparently more brakes than the tires could handle. No more pulsation and they actually perform better with some heat in them. I went with Carbotech pads and slotted rotors from brake performance dot com. I didn't want the slotted rotors, per se, but they were acutally less expensive than the plain rotors.

Oh, and whoever asked the question as to why you can't just swap the calipers to the other side; the hole for the banjo bolt and brake line is only on one side. You can't flip the calipers. Have to swap the crossover line and bleeders.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:55 PM   #41
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i refuse to cut into stuff and unless you have to and brakes are not one of them
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:10 PM   #42
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Money shot! Thanks for that.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:16 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuzsgto...View Post
i refuse to cut into stuff and unless you have to and brakes are not one of them

I refuse to run aluminum adapter brackets.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:25 PM   #44
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Page one updated.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:19 PM   #45
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I think I'm going to tap the OEM GTO hub to except the bmw holding screw. Having the rotor flopping around makes installing the wheels kind of sucky.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:30 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by kuzsgto...View Post
i refuse to cut into stuff and unless you have to and brakes are not one of them

I refuse to run wheel spacers on a car that sees track time.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:38 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quiksilver...View Post
I refuse to run wheel spacers on a car that sees track time.

ARP wheelstuds. Hubcentric custom spacers. Wheels still are hubcentric on the hub.

I've hit curbing hard enough to bend an OEM strut bar and didn't have a wheel fall off.

A 7mm spacer gives me nearly -3 camber with a 265 on a stock 18.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:21 PM   #48
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I know, it's probably a senseless concern. But it just doesn't feel right for me.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:03 PM   #49
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Petal is firmer.

HP+ pads screech like a MOFO.

ABS is kicking in anytime I get near the petal. Really blows; going to see if more bleeding fixes it.

Seems to have nice bite tho.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:38 PM   #50
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Looks good, cant wait to do this to mine and get it out from storage.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:11 PM   #51
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Bite wise they are epic. With HP+ pads more then 20% pedal gets ABS to engage; I pulled the ABS fuse and any time I got into the brakes at all they locked up.

I might have to go to a less aggressive pad, or maybe a smaller master to get some good modular feel.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:56 PM   #52
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You get used to the power; and less pedal throw.

Now to try them out on the track.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:58 PM   #53
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Wheel spacers hold up and my wheels never fell off at 100+ mph and torque stayed even. Plus 8000+HP cars runs spacers don't even know they are there.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:19 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker...View Post
Bite wise they are epic. With HP+ pads more then 20% pedal gets ABS to engage; I pulled the ABS fuse and any time I got into the brakes at all they locked up.

I might have to go to a less aggressive pad, or maybe a smaller master to get some good modular feel.

Based on what you're describing and the modifications made (Larger rotor >greater torque arm leverage = less pedal effort. larger caliper >increased piston area, greater clamping force = less pedal effort) it sounds like a larger master is in order.

A bigger master cylinder would create less pressure, and therefore require higher pedal effort making the system easier to modulate… of course I have no clue what the ABS system would make of all those changes. This is why BBK manufactures keep piston surface area near stock or reduce it in the case of adding larger rotors; that keeps pedal effort, travel and balance near stock levels without the need to monkey around with master cylinders…

But the band aid solution is as you suggested, less aggressive pads; though that doesn’t cure pedal feel or travel.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:03 PM   #55
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Has anyone checked into the Buick Regal GS Brembo brakes working on our cars. This vehicle was produced as the Holden Vauxhall in AU. Might be another Brembo option. Maybe a direct bolt on since its also a Holden.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:31 PM   #56
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Has anyone checked into the Buick Regal GS Brembo brakes working on our cars. This vehicle was produced as the Holden Vauxhall in AU. Might be another Brembo option. Maybe a direct bolt on since its also a Holden.

Come again? lol

I think you mean the Insignia.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opel_Insignia

The Brembo calipers on that car are smaller than the CTS-V system. Not really a benefit.

EDIT: Second look says they might be very close to the CTS-V caliper. Wouldn't know without a comparison. Still more expensive than V-calipers.

Last edited by Quiksilver; 11-29-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:37 PM   #57
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Above 100 they have a shimmy under braking; going to pull them apart and clean the hubs even more.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:35 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Come again? lol

I think you mean the Insignia.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opel_Insignia

The Brembo calipers on that car are smaller than the CTS-V system. Not really a benefit.

EDIT: Second look says they might be very close to the CTS-V caliper. Wouldn't know without a comparison. Still more expensive than V-calipers.

Yes your right its the Insignia. The calipers and rotors are huge and the GS is very heavy. I was just thinking that maybe it would be a direct fit. Bolt right up to the mount using no adapters.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:56 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker...View Post
I refuse to run aluminum adapter brackets.

Most aftermarket brake caliper adapter brackets are made out of aluminum!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quiksilver...View Post
I refuse to run wheel spacers on a car that sees track time.

I was somewhat skeptical at first about spacers too, but after 5k plus miles, the wheel lug tq hasn't changed. kuzsgto runs 5mm spacer without compromised effort.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:38 PM   #60
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More brakes then the tires can handle.
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