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Old 12-04-2012, 11:07 PM   #31
dyno junkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redtan...View Post
With the kind of power you're putting down I don't think it matters what tire or size you put down. It's more of driving skill than equipment. You can have the best tire in the world in 345 size...if you can't drive it's not going to work.

If people like 04qsgtoma and 6pntho can launch their ~500rwhp cars just fine on ET streets, but you with 140rwhp less than them can't then I have news for you...it's not the tire or size that's the problem here.

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Originally Posted by MIXEDBREED...View Post
That depends on the auto and how it was built. Some of us here have snapped halfshafts and even twisted and broke inner stubs with a auto. Ask me how I know And there is even a 9 second m6 gto running around somewhere aswell. The right driver and setup and you should be able to hook up. I went low 10's on DR's many times and monster ran 9's on his dr's. I switched to the slicks for 9's and because the dr's just didn't hook up on the street where I would race from time to time lol.

You have drag bags which are great if you have them set to the right psi. To much and you will spin your tires. Hell my little auto would blow away the slicks if I didn't get the setup right. Tire psi, bag psi, launch rpm all play a big part here not just the type of tire used. Your power levels= you should hook up on drag radials.



I agree with these two posts!

Our automatic Monaro ET's in the low 11's with 1.5xx 60' times.
Recently I fitted these same Mickey Thompson 265/40/18 Drag Radials to our manual GTO.
The GTO is lowered on Eibach springs and Koni red shocks.
i adjusted the Koni's up a little bit and pumped the Radials up to 28lbs, whereas I use 21.5lbs in the Monaro.

Did a small second gear burnout and launched at 3,000rpm.
Definately no problem with the Drag Radials hooking up at near stock power level, adding nitrous to the equation would be a bit different though!
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:11 AM   #32
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The hooking isnt the issue with the radials. Its the shock they give to the drivetrain on an M6. The bias ply is going to twist and act as a buffer and prolong the life of everything behind the trans. Mine survived about 15 6500 rpm clutch sidesteps, I attribute all of that to the bias ply tires.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:07 AM   #33
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The hooking isnt the issue with the radials. Its the shock they give to the drivetrain on an M6. The bias ply is going to twist and act as a buffer and prolong the life of everything behind the trans. Mine survived about 15 6500 rpm clutch sidesteps, I attribute all of that to the bias ply tires.

Exactly! And since bias plys and radials are near the same price why would I go with a radial?? I don't drive to the track on my race tires regardless of what they are.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:19 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by ChevyLT1Camaro94...View Post
Exactly! And since bias plys and radials are near the same price why would I go with a radial?? I don't drive to the track on my race tires regardless of what they are.

There is not one advantage of a slick..

First off buy good parts and your shit wont break.. Oh let me guess you would rather use a slick as a bandade to help keep a factory part from breaking under a stress load it wasnt designed for.
2nd, A radial is quicker & faster in all aspects.
3rd, A radial is safer and more stable with the IRS down track at high speed.

Now answer your own question, Why would you NOT go with a radial ?
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:45 AM   #35
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Considering I can't afford to replace my entire drivetrain since that's pretty much what you're saying to do. Yeah I'm trying to use slicks as a safety net. If bias ply tires were so unsafe and so terrible then why do MOST of the fastest cars out there run them??? Why do top fuel cars run them still if radials are so much better in every aspect? There's gotta be an advantage to using them otherwise they'd be phased out. And price isn't it cause they're nearly equivalent in that aspect to drag radials.


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Old 12-05-2012, 01:09 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by ChevyLT1Camaro94...View Post
Considering I can't afford to replace my entire drivetrain since that's pretty much what you're saying to do. Yeah I'm trying to use slicks as a safety net. If bias ply tires were so unsafe and so terrible then why do MOST of the fastest cars out there run them??? Why do top fuel cars run them still if radials are so much better in every aspect? There's gotta be an advantage to using them otherwise they'd be phased out. And price isn't it cause they're nearly equivalent in that aspect to drag radials.


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Your idiocracy is starting to show, maybe you need to graduate racing 101 before you move any further forward
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:49 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by MIXEDBREED...View Post
You have drag bags which are great if you have them set to the right psi. To much and you will spin your tires. Hell my little auto would blow away the slicks if I didn't get the setup right. Tire psi, bag psi, launch rpm all play a big part here not just the type of tire used. Your power levels= you should hook up on drag radials.

That's some of the best advice i've read.

To add, the same tire psi with a DR won't work every time. You may have to play with the pressure depending on track conditions until it hooks.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:53 PM   #38
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A bias ply is much more unsafe in a heavy street car with IRS. This isn't a light tube chassis car with onbscene power. Radials are both faster and safer on our cars. Period. That's why I put them on the welds you're considering buying. I honestly don't care too much about the money... It's only $550. Im only posting this because id rather see a less experienced track goer make the right decision here... Im not trying to push my tires/wheels in your face. Listen to the experienced guys here, and use a radial. Et street radials are arguably the most proven street/strip tires to ever exist
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:56 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by VT05ls2goat...View Post
A bias ply is much more unsafe in a heavy street car with IRS. This isn't a light tube chassis car with onbscene power. Radials are both faster and safer on our cars. Period. That's why I put them on the welds you're considering buying. I honestly don't care too much about the money... It's only $550. Im only posting this because id rather see a less experienced track goer make the right decision here... Im not trying to push my tires/wheels in your face. Listen to the experienced guys here, and use a radial. Et street radials are arguably the most proven street/strip tires to ever exist

What you're saying does make sense considering my car with me in it is pushing 4100 lbs my concern with your setup is getting the 15x10 wheels to fit.


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Old 12-06-2012, 01:33 PM   #40
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What backspacing is needed for 15x8, 15x9 and 15x10 wheels?


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Old 12-06-2012, 02:36 PM   #41
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What's so hard about fitting them? Rolled fenders, drag bags or 0" drop springs, hammer inner fender well. They weren't a problem fitting at all
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:24 AM   #42
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Ok I'm looking at getting some 26x10.5 et street bias. I would need to get pro stars or a similar wheel (jeg stars or summit stars) to put them on cuz I'm getting a set of front pro stars with tires. What size rim should I get and what backspacing? 15x8 or 15x10? I would prefer not to have to modify the car more to fit them. I have rolled quarters. Arp wheel studs. Drag bags.


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Old 01-03-2013, 02:36 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyLT1Camaro94...View Post
What backspacing is needed for 15x8, 15x9 and 15x10 wheels?


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I used to run a 15x8 with 5.5b.s. with a MT slick 26x10-15 ,15x10 I used 6.5 b.s. but had a little poke a 7b.s. would be more flush
When my car was a M6 I used the slicks cause I like to wot clutch dump and pull some gears my stock clutch had I would say more the 100 passes on it and 28k miles and it was still holding strong even on the 150shot when u pulled the motor.
Also the stock half shafts last a year till one broke and after that I twisted a stub so plan to replace them with stronger units after a while
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:46 AM   #44
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Will a 15x7 with 5.5" bs fit?


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Old 01-16-2013, 09:30 AM   #45
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I would do the 15x8 s roll the fenders get some bags the 15x7 will limit tire chose
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:36 AM   #46
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I have 26x10 my et drags I'm buying wheels now. I have bags and rolled quarters.


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Old 02-03-2013, 07:54 AM   #47
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Help Choosing slick size

What are your opinions on the summit fast fives or any of their drag wheels for that matter? I'm seriously considering the fast fives. Already have a set of 26x10.5 mt et drags that I got for free.


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Old 02-03-2013, 07:07 PM   #48
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Chevy LT1, I have a good year slick its a 26X8 mounted on a set of 15X7 S-10 blazer wheels which have a 6.35 ish BS. Im gonna guess we have the same Hp. I have an 05 IBM M6 Lt headers air intake kooks exhaust underdrive pulley and with this set up no burn out I cut a 1.98 60 and went 13.07 at 108mph. I launched at 3000 rpm and no wheel spin. I think I did have clutch slip though.----danfigg
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:44 PM   #49
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Help Choosing slick size

Sweet that really gives me hope. Did u bog at all?


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Old 02-06-2013, 04:45 PM   #50
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LT1 i thinking im sliping in the clutch department---danfigg
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:02 PM   #51
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Help Choosing slick size

Ooo well if ur staying at that power level I'd go ls7 clutch


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Old 02-07-2013, 06:58 AM   #52
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new clutch is a definate for this year. There is a 12.90 in it somewhere---danfigg
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