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Old 08-04-2012, 05:42 PM   #1
slvr6spd
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SCSS Gauge install

Just wanted to show everyone how I ended up plumbing the oil sending unit on the SCSS gauges. We all know that they lack instructions when sent and I had to contact Abo at SCSS to get the wiring schematics emailed to me.

I skipped using the cap on the oil pan as clearance would be extremely tight between the oil sending unit and the cradle. I was worried that if a motor mount ever took a crap I would end up with a huge mess that would make my engine go Boom! I hope this write up helps make things a little easier for those who are going to be doing the install at home. The only thing I did different from the schematic for the volt gauge was run the yellow wire directly to the battery for my 12v source. Figured the gauge would be slightly more accurate that way than tapping into a source inside the vehicle. Don't forge to install an inline fuse if you choose do it the same way I did. I used a 20 amp fuse.

The adapter I used to screw into the valley cover is a special tool used to check oil pressure. They are available on ebay for under $20. The tool number is J-21867-16.

Doesn't make a difference which terminal you attatch the wires to at the oil sending unit.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Gauges.jpg (135.7 KB, 422 views)
File Type: jpg Sending unit.jpg (143.6 KB, 404 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SCSS GaTOr Pod install.pdf (151.6 KB, 237 views)
File Type: pdf SCSS Racing series gauge instructions.pdf (106.8 KB, 200 views)
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:42 PM   #2
slvr6spd
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Terminal 1- Not used
Terminal 2-Brown/White--Instrument panel lights supply volts
Terminal 3-Black/Green--Ground
Terminal 4-Not used
Terminal 5-Purple/white--Fuel door release signal
Terminal 6-Grey--Instrument panel lamps dimming control


Connect the black wires in power distribution cable to the terminal 3 wire at FDR connector.

Connect the yellow wire from volt gauge to terminal 5 at FDR connector OR positve battery terminal.

Connect all of the white wires from both illumination controls and power distribution cable to terminal 2 at FDR connector (install optional 475 ohm resistor inline to slightly dim brightness of gauges).

Connect both red wires in power distribution cables together and run to spare fuse terminal #18 in fuse box.

I used the grommet for the hood release cable to run oil sending unit wiring and voltage feed wire for volt gauge thru firewall. Was the easiest place to do it.

If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me
Attached Images
File Type: gif FDR Connector.gif (14.4 KB, 147 views)

Last edited by slvr6spd; 08-04-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:53 PM   #3
05ls7gto
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Another option for using the OE location is this:


It's what I used and you can get it here:
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com...ipe_lines.html

You would want to get the TP12 model. The only issue with this is when tightened all the way the sensor would jam the intake manifold, so you have to use crush washers or o-rings to get it to stop at the correct angle. You can see mine in this picture:


Though looking at your pictures it makes it appear that the standard series gauges sending unit wouldn't fit with this setup - only the racer series sending unit. Also using brass on aluminum isn't ideal as it promotes corrosion. Albiet some people have fabbed their own adapters similar to what you have using brass fittings from home improvement stores in the past.
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Last edited by 05ls7gto; 08-04-2012 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:02 PM   #4
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I used what was readily available at Lowe's. Tried to make it a one day project. I am using the standard series gauges. There is just enough room to clear the intake and I am using a FAST 102. As far as corrosion goes my car only sees nice weather so it isn't an issue I was worried about. Just trying to help people out who have trouble installing these gauges is all. Thanks for posting up that adapter as another option for people.

Last edited by slvr6spd; 08-04-2012 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:04 PM   #5
05ls7gto
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By the way you forgot to list one of the SCSS installation instructions:
http://teamscss.com/forum/scss%20oil...%20install.pdf
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #6
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Yes I know the pdf file was to large to upload so I just typed it and provided a connector diagram of the FDR connector.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:49 PM   #7
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Looks awesome and a a great write up thanks dude for adding another item on my endless GTO list FML lol.
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:30 PM   #8
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Great info here.. Thanks guys!! Will make this install much easier..
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:15 AM   #9
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Nice!

I have always liked these but damn still too pricey for my cheap ass haha.
I guess I'll get one when I rear mount turbo.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:08 AM   #10
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you'll need to remove the intake plenum to plumb the
sending unit in this fashion.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:17 AM   #11
zech912
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is that within reason of difficulty for non-skilled? is it simply a matter of removing some bolts or is it serious risk of trouble?
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:22 AM   #12
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its fairly easy. may as well change out the plenum
runner gaskets while your at it if you have some mileage
on the car.



http://zigzautonotes.blogspot.com/20...m-removal.html
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:30 AM   #13
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this is awesome. thank you elephantrider for your help and this great link.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:38 AM   #14
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no problem-o....
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05ls7gto...View Post
Another option for using the OE location is this:




I know I am dealing in the obvious here, but when I remove the manifold plenum, I will find a stock sender, I will remove that, replace it with the adaptor male(A), then the stock sender will go in female(B), and the aftermarket Auto Meter sender will go in the 1/8"x27, correct?

In addition, it appears to me from the pic that the adaptor is not bolted directly into the block but that there is a spacer or adaptor of some sort that it is going into?

Last edited by zech912; 12-06-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zech912...View Post
I know I am dealing in the obvious here, but when I remove the manifold plenum, I will find a stock sender, I will remove that, replace it with the adaptor male(A), then the stock sender will go in female(B), and the aftermarket Auto Meter sender will go in the 1/8"x27, correct?

In addition, it appears to me from the pic that the adaptor is not bolted directly into the block but that there is a spacer or adaptor of some sort that it is going into?


You are correct; the stock sensor goes into B, A goes into the motor, and the aftermarket sensor goes into the 1/8'x27. As for the "spacer" you see, that is there from the factory on the car. Just as a note though, you will need an o-ring or crush washer to go between the TP12 and the block. This is because without it the aftermarket sensor would be pointing into the intake manifold.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:49 PM   #17
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very helpful write up.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05ls7gto...View Post
You are correct; the stock sensor goes into B, A goes into the motor, and the aftermarket sensor goes into the 1/8'x27. As for the "spacer" you see, that is there from the factory on the car. Just as a note though, you will need an o-ring or crush washer to go between the TP12 and the block. This is because without it the aftermarket sensor would be pointing into the intake manifold.

thank you 05ls7gto. one final (hopefully) question: I understand from you the need for o-ring or crush washer. Is your current angle (pic) for the sender, the ideal one?

Last edited by zech912; 12-07-2012 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:59 AM   #19
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I don't know about ideal, but this is the angle I achieved with a random o-ring I had picked up from Ace Hardware and works for me. At this angle my racer series sensor clears the intake manifold just fine though. With the standard series gauges you may need a thicker o-ring so that the sensor points even more towards the driver side of the car (right of the picture).

I was PM'ed a while ago by somebody asking to see how the sensor looks with the intake manifold on, so here are those pictures for reference. You can see my sensor is barely clearing part of the fuel rail, the larger sensors will obviously not fit.

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Old 12-07-2012, 05:25 AM   #20
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Thank you for the info and great pics!
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:02 PM   #21
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I put mine on without removing the manifold. There's plenty of room...
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