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Old 12-20-2012, 01:37 PM   #1
Bumpin' Yota
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Cause for solenoid sticking open?

Turns out that a remote bottle opener and a nitrous purge ARE safety devices after all!!


Anyhoo what have yall found for the cause of a nitrous solenoid to stick open?

How often should the 'noids be rebuilt?

Nitro Dave do yall sell rebuilds for your solenoids?


ps - this has been a crappy week for me nitrous-wise.

Step 1: Have a -6an nitrous line EXPLODE in one's face at 950psi
Step 2: Replacement fitting leaks like a sieve!
Step 3: Russel replacement leaks worse!!
Step 4: Re-cut line and reinstall Russell fitting and thankfully it didn't fail or leak
Step 5: Have main nitrous solenoid stick open on first test run.

WTFBBQ!!!
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota...View Post
Turns out that a remote bottle opener and a nitrous purge ARE safety devices after all!!


Anyhoo what have yall found for the cause of a nitrous solenoid to stick open?

How often should the 'noids be rebuilt?

Nitro Dave do yall sell rebuilds for your solenoids?


ps - this has been a crappy week for me nitrous-wise.

Step 1: Have a -6an nitrous line EXPLODE in one's face at 950psi
Step 2: Replacement fitting leaks like a sieve!
Step 3: Russel replacement leaks worse!!
Step 4: Re-cut line and reinstall Russell fitting and thankfully it didn't fail or leak
Step 5: Have main nitrous solenoid stick open on first test run.

WTFBBQ!!!

Perhaps debris from the mishap ?
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:36 PM   #3
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A nitrous solenoid uses 12 vdc to pull the valve plunger open (against spring pressure),
when the voltage is removed, the spring closes the plunger.

For the solenoid to stay open, there are three possibilities
1. voltage is staying on......not likely.
2. the plunger cannot move freely in the bore. Rust or debris is a possibility.
3. the spring may be broken.

It sounds as if the coil is pulling the plunger back, as it should, but something
is holding the plunger in the open position and the spring isn't strong enough to over come that resistance.

Solenoids are very simple to rebuild but you will need to make or purchase a spanner wrench to complete
teardown and reassembly.
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Last edited by magnum-gto; 12-20-2012 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:26 PM   #4
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I have a sneaking suspicion that I should have blown the new 6an line I got from summitt racing out with compressed air first...

Later this week I'm going to pull the 'noids and see what happened.

I've got a big nitrous filter about 2' down stream of the bottles after they Y fitting on the main -6 line. Is this optimal or should it be closer to the solenoid? Also does the orientation of it matter? Right now it's mounted vertically as I was thinking this would remove all the air and air pockets as I purged the line, but would like input.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:17 PM   #5
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Teflon seal cut or won't seal...
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:57 AM   #6
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actually the spring only keeps slack out of the piston...bottle pressure keeps the piston closed...
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenfly...View Post
Teflon seal cut or won't seal...

...or debris between the teflon seat and poppet/plunger.
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:09 PM   #8
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Are you using pump gas? I've had the fuel side stick closed using pump gas and it looks like the silt in the ethnothol fuel is the culprit.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:31 AM   #9
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Yes pump gas, but if the gas solenoid stuck closed on a 100 shot, I'd have blown the piss out of the engine from a lean condition....During the hit, it ran GREAT, I was only on it for a few seconds in 2nd gear from 20-50 so never got a look at the AFR. Im going to very closely inspect BOTH solenoids now! lol

It was after the run, with the clutch in, car in neutral, coasting, and foot off of the gas, it was idling right around 4300rpm! I freaked out, closed the main line solenoid (NOS brand) and held the purge open to vent the line ASAP. When I got stopped at the next light and the nitrous all vented, the car didnt want to idle for crap. (looooow AFR - car was adding fuel to the nitrous being inhaled around the closed throttle blade) However within 30 seconds she was back to normal...

Im going to yank them out today at some point and have a looksie.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnum-gto...View Post
...or debris between the teflon seat and poppet/plunger.

Im suspectin this...do you have any ideas about the nitrous filter question I asked earlier?
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota...View Post
Im suspectin this...do you have any ideas about the nitrous filter question I asked earlier?

I don't feel that location or orientation of the filter is critical.
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Old 12-25-2012, 02:58 PM   #12
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Solenoids should be inspected and/or rebuilt every two or three years (more often if they get used a lot). Like was said, debris tends to be the most common reason they stick open.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batboy...View Post
Solenoids should be inspected and/or rebuilt every two or three years (more often if they get used a lot). Like was said, debris tends to be the most common reason they stick open.

Hit the nail on the head here... Depending on how often they are used is the key to how often you need to rebuild or at least check them out.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Your filter location is just fine. You want it as close to the bottles as possible.

As far as Noid maintenance goes you might check this out.
http://www.nitroustech.com/forums/sh...43&postcount=1
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:01 PM   #14
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Well I took them out and addressed a few small leaks whilst I was at it. Two little pieces of the stainless steel braid were pinned on top of the teflon insert on the plunger. I cleared that, then noticed that the plunger was quite difficult to index up and down. Blew that out, restretched the spring on the plunger, buttoned up the solenoid minus the coil, then smacked it a few good times to reform the seal on the teflon insert. Tested her, she worked perfect, then made 3 test runs with the psi around 600psi so I KNEW it would be rich. Worked like a champ!!

Now to run her up to 800psi and watch the AFR...if that checks out, then 950!

Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 01-02-2013 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@NitroDaves...View Post
Hit the nail on the head here... Depending on how often they are used is the key to how often you need to rebuild or at least check them out.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Your filter location is just fine. You want it as close to the bottles as possible.

As far as Noid maintenance goes you might check this out.
http://www.nitroustech.com/forums/sh...43&postcount=1

thank you for the link!!! I didnt know yall had a forum!!
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:12 PM   #16
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Your very welcome. We have it but it doesn't get a whole lot of traffic.
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