Start out with current mods... Headers, exhaust, svede, tune.
Was gonna buy some v710s to get bigger tires in the back and do the head install this summer but I found a nice deal on some LS6 243's with the sodium valves. I was going to wait and do everything with a cam but I don't want to run a cam on a mail order tune so it will have to wait.
While I'm in there I figured I should go with the following. (Help me here)
ARP head bolts
Replace all Gaskets
SLP UDP(should I do it now or wait for cam?)
Anything else? Car is a weekend toy now so a staggered setup can wait.
I should see 20-25 horsepower right?
You should easily pick up 20hp. The increased compression with improved flow of the new heads will make more power, and the lightweight hollow stem intake valve should allow the engine rev a little quicker and higher.
Personally, if your going to do a cam swap down the line, and depending on how big you go, I'd hold off on the swap. Those heads will have a significant benefit from porting. I have had a set of 243's sitting on a shelf for the last 4 months, but I'm saving to port them and do an intake swap at the same time.
Glad I asked lol. I think I'm going to leave the springs stock for now. My plans are a baby cam but I can see me changing my mind and going with a more aggressive cam setup since my car isn't a DD anymore. Is the ls1howto guide a pretty good source to go off of?
Yes, the LS1 How-To guide is what I used. Cleaning the coolant and crude from the head bolt holes plus cleaning the mounting surfaces are both time consuming and critical. Add antifreeze to your list and you should change the oil/filter afterwards too.
2004 torrid red with red interior A4 GTO (1 of 499)
If you are getting the heads for a good deal then i would wait until you have money to port them. And don't go with a baby cam if this isn't your dd. Get a good medium range cam, install everything at once, and get a proper tune. You will save money in the long run if you are patient.
2005 PBM M6 Red interior GTO
-CNC ported LS6 heads
-SLP Under-drive pulley
-Stage 2 ported intake and TB
-Gforce stage 2 anti-hop axles
-ARH 1 7/8 Long tubes and high flow cats
-custom exhaust with x-pipe and 3" powersticks
-GMM race shifter
-Pedders street 1 bushings
-Monster stage 3 clutch and classic hardline
-3.91s, Diff technics diff, Gforce stubs
-370mm Lovells rear springs
1/4 mile = embarrassing @ 116mph
I'd be concerned about running a head swap without a tune especially if you have a mail order tune that more than likely leaned fueling and bumped up timing
"It's a well know fact that after you hit 400 HP you have to go with split dual exhaust like the LS2 GTOs. The '04s could get away
with single side because they were only 350 HP. With 400 HP and beyond the car wants to turn right at WOT from the thrust."
It's one of the diablew tunes where you data log and send him the files and he adjusts according. I figured those are better than normal mail order tunes. He has a pretty good reputation and did an excellent job on my current setup.
It may (or not) be perfect for what you have now. Performance tuning leans out fueling and increases timing from the stock calibration but a head swap will increase compression and that usually requires less timing as well as the increased air flow affecting WOT fueling. Maybe it's just me. . .
I hope it will be sufficient. Everyone has told me he knows his stuff. I understand where you are coming from though. I just spoke to him and he gave me the go ahead. Am I missing anything else on my swap?
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