New plugs - Stray from OEM Delcos? - Page 2 - LS1GTO.com Forums

Vendors


Go Back   LS1GTO.com Forums > GTO Tech > Tech Lounge

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 01-01-2013, 12:41 PM   #31
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky_pitboss...View Post
lol I almost feel guilty spending like $2.50 on a plug, compared to what OEM is at around $7-$8 per plug.

I know right? Gotta love the Copper V power, very good design. The $7-$8 is just for those extra miles the plug will last. Copper with run about 20-25,000 and the iridium is good to 100,000. Not really any performance gain there. Just longevity.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-01-2013, 01:10 PM   #32
JNR
Quidditas
 
JNR's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: May 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 9,145


Online
Provided you have the proper gap and heat range, plugs are plugs and the only difference is on iridium oem's, say, they last a bit longer is all. this car is real easy to change the plugs (30 minutes tops taking your time, no joke) so when it's time for me to change them on this one, it'll be NGK copper, $1 plugs (sale) just like I did in a few other vehicles...Paying $5-6-7+ per plug is foolish, IMO. Just be glad we don't have 16 plugs like my WK Hemi did, lol.

Another reason I stopped buying "special" plugs is I've had those platinum (maybe it was iridium, forgot) little tips actually come off.

With the $$$ you save, pick up some nice oem-style plug wires from say rockauto (+5% off code).

If you want any performance gain, about the only thing you can do besides making sure your ign is 100% is to index the plugs using washers (so they all point down) and centering the electrode. Otherwise, plugs are plug...remember copper is one of the best conductors besides silver and gold.
__________________
2004 Pontiac GTO - new DD, yay!
2007 Cadillac CTS-V - Sold
2006 Pontiac GTO - Sold
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR4
1971 Chevy Malibu "383" <--need to get this back together!
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 01:25 PM   #33
Alexander
Registered User
 

Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Posts: 45


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman9...View Post
TR55 is a great plug and commonly used. Heat range is a 5. Summits website shows heat ranges.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ngk-3951





Stockers work fine, they come in at about 760 OHMs per wire. Not too bad. But if your a mod addict. I'd pop on some MSD's, which come in at 25-30 OHMS per wire & are 8.5mm, pretty dang good. But as stated stockers do work and work well. Just a owners money and preference.

Sounds good. What were those wires that are 0? The company is a guy's name.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky_pitboss...View Post
lol I almost feel guilty spending like $2.50 on a plug, compared to what OEM is at around $7-$8 per plug.

Stock is over priced IMO.

NGK ftw.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 01:39 PM   #34
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander...View Post
Sounds good. What were those wires that are 0? The company is a guy's name.

Granetelli? Those are a good wire, but over priced at $130.00 per set. I cant find enough differences to sway me to get them. 25 less ohms to gain 0 power and have to run a "blue" wire? For 70 dollars more! I'll stick with the cheaper proven MSD RED wire. Matches my setup. If blue is your deal, good on you.

I know a guy who is a friend of Granetellis son, and he got him to admit that his wires are no better than MSD's lol.

My FRESH MSD's 23.8 OHMS




Last edited by Hitman9; 01-01-2013 at 02:28 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 01:46 PM   #35
Alexander
Registered User
 

Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Posts: 45


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman9...View Post
Granatelli? Those are a good wire, but over priced at $130.00 per set. I cant find enough differences to sway me to get them. 25 less ohms to gain 0 power and have to run a "blue" wire? For 70 dollars more! I'll stick with the cheaper proven MSD RED wire. Matches my setup. If blue is your deal, good on you.

I know a guy who is a friend of Granatellis son, and he got him to admit that his wires are no better than MSD's lol.

Haha yup thats them!

Nah I'll second your sentiments.

MSDs or OEM work for me.

Plus typically there are promos, holiday coupons, etc on MSD stuff.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 01:51 PM   #36
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander...View Post
Haha yup thats them!

Nah I'll second your sentiments.

MSDs or OEM work for me.

Plus typically there are promos, holiday coupons, etc on MSD stuff.


Very true, if MSD is good enough for NASCAR & NHRA "John Force" engines, then they work for me. There is a reason they only use MSD products and make crazy HP, I'll stick with what works lol.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 02:25 PM   #37
sakeunited
Vice Pres. of P.R. @ G.P.P.
 
sakeunited's Avatar
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pacifica, CA
Posts: 3,430
Premium Member


Offline
@Hitman9

I went to opposite ends with my ignition. I have the granetelli wires ($125) and some copper core plugs ($10 for 8) from my local speed shop
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004KID...
Sorry about the text at 7am but that was the best price of the day for donkey show tickets

Tuned by G.P.P. Performance
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 02:33 PM   #38
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by sakeunited...View Post
@Hitman9

I went to opposite ends with my ignition. I have the granetelli wires ($125) and some copper core plugs ($10 for 8) from my local speed shop

Haha, thats some good stuff. I guess depending on how to do it and the combo you make, it may wash itself out in the end. At least you now you have a nice set of wires powering the most conductive plug type. Fire in the hole for sure.

One thing I'm curious about is the running of a Copper Autolite (764) heat range 5 for the goat. I work in auto parts as stated before. When I check this plug out, their is a lot of copper there & doesn't look bad, any opinions or anyone running the Autolite. Its one of the cheapest plug I can get for about $1.35 each.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 02:35 PM   #39
04QSMGoat
Registered User
 
04QSMGoat's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 743


Offline
Yep, Granatellis are without a doubt the best, but I run MSDs because they aren't far off the resistance value of Granatelli and that they are readily available around me if I ever need a replacement
__________________
2004 QSM GTO: Forged 347, bolt ons, stalled auto PHK
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 02:58 PM   #40
dsclark
Registered User
 

Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,477


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman9...View Post
I know right? Gotta love the Copper V power, very good design. The $7-$8 is just for those extra miles the plug will last. Copper with run about 20-25,000 and the iridium is good to 100,000. Not really any performance gain there. Just longevity.

I disagree. When I got my car dyno tune, the shop said that they would replace the stock iridium plugs (they had 18,000 miles on them) with copper for more power.
Car was tuned, three pulls on the dyno were done.
The shop forgot to replace stock iridium plugs with new coppers.
Plugs were then quickly replaced , the weather conditions remained the same, three pulls were done.
With each pull, the dyno showed a loss of about 2hp.
I posted this about six years ago and the copper plug fan club showed up, saying that 2hp is too small an amount, dyno discrepencies, yadda, yadda, yadda- they missed the point.
The point here is that a set of iridium plugs with 18k miles out dynoed a brand new set of copper plugs. Put a set of copper plugs in a modern v8 and they'll be toast at 15k miles, how'd you think they'd dyno against the iridiums?
I suppose we could have put the stock iridiums back in, done three more pulls, but I don't think the shop wanted to do that.
If you want to put copper plugs in your stock car instead of iridiums, what is it that you are trying to accomplish? More power? Dyno says no, you won't get more power. Save money? Copper plugs are $2, iridiums are $8. Over 100k miles, with plugs changes every 15k miles, those copper plugs will cost $112, iridium will cost $64, so copper won't save you money, they'll cost you more money. Time? You will spend less of your life changing spark plugs if you go with iridiums which are good for 100K miles.
__________________
Pedder OE springs/Comfort Ride shocks,Lovells strut mounts, Pedder front LCA bush, Super Pro front & rear Radius bush, xmember insert, steering bushing, Hotchkiss sway bars, Bush less front sway bar links, Noltec rear differential bushing,rear LCA bushings, rear shock bushings, Pedder rear sway bar link bushings on bottom, Superpro bushings on top,GMM shifter, JBA shorties/catted mids/X pipe/Pypes bullits/Kooks afterburner mufflers, AD tuned,BFG A/S 245-40-18 tires, lots of sound deadener!
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 04:38 PM   #41
87LC2
Dr. Mantis Toboggan
 
87LC2's Avatar
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 12,899
Premium Member


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsclark...View Post
I disagree. When I got my car dyno tune, the shop said that they would replace the stock iridium plugs (they had 18,000 miles on them) with copper for more power.
Car was tuned, three pulls on the dyno were done.
The shop forgot to replace stock iridium plugs with new coppers.
Plugs were then quickly replaced , the weather conditions remained the same, three pulls were done.
With each pull, the dyno showed a loss of about 2hp.
I posted this about six years ago and the copper plug fan club showed up, saying that 2hp is too small an amount, dyno discrepencies, yadda, yadda, yadda- they missed the point.
The point here is that a set of iridium plugs with 18k miles out dynoed a brand new set of copper plugs. Put a set of copper plugs in a modern v8 and they'll be toast at 15k miles, how'd you think they'd dyno against the iridiums?
I suppose we could have put the stock iridiums back in, done three more pulls, but I don't think the shop wanted to do that.
If you want to put copper plugs in your stock car instead of iridiums, what is it that you are trying to accomplish? More power? Dyno says no, you won't get more power. Save money? Copper plugs are $2, iridiums are $8. Over 100k miles, with plugs changes every 15k miles, those copper plugs will cost $112, iridium will cost $64, so copper won't save you money, they'll cost you more money. Time? You will spend less of your life changing spark plugs if you go with iridiums which are good for 100K miles.

I'm lazy, I'd rather be driving than under the hood turning another smurfing wrench.
__________________
The Anti-Prius™
2008 JSB/Black M6 1LT
Kooks, catless, NPP
Vararam
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 05:16 PM   #42
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsclark...View Post
I disagree. When I got my car dyno tune, the shop said that they would replace the stock iridium plugs (they had 18,000 miles on them) with copper for more power.
Car was tuned, three pulls on the dyno were done.
The shop forgot to replace stock iridium plugs with new coppers.
Plugs were then quickly replaced , the weather conditions remained the same, three pulls were done.
With each pull, the dyno showed a loss of about 2hp.
I posted this about six years ago and the copper plug fan club showed up, saying that 2hp is too small an amount, dyno discrepencies, yadda, yadda, yadda- they missed the point.
The point here is that a set of iridium plugs with 18k miles out dynoed a brand new set of copper plugs. Put a set of copper plugs in a modern v8 and they'll be toast at 15k miles, how'd you think they'd dyno against the iridiums?
I suppose we could have put the stock iridiums back in, done three more pulls, but I don't think the shop wanted to do that.
If you want to put copper plugs in your stock car instead of iridiums, what is it that you are trying to accomplish? More power? Dyno says no, you won't get more power. Save money? Copper plugs are $2, iridiums are $8. Over 100k miles, with plugs changes every 15k miles, those copper plugs will cost $112, iridium will cost $64, so copper won't save you money, they'll cost you more money. Time? You will spend less of your life changing spark plugs if you go with iridiums which are good for 100K miles.

Very nice point sir, kudos to you. 2 HP is kinda here and there on the dyno discrepancies. I personally tested the copper vs NGK IX and saw 0-0.8HP gains. I did however see very very very small changes in overall AFR, nothing to write home about. Maybe due to better combustion. Although gains you saw are true are plausible I think a lot of the gains or the 2hp gain, have to do with the "fine" tips and more constant & focused spark from both iridium and some platinum plugs. Not the materiel, just the over all design is better then a plain copper.

Last edited by Hitman9; 01-01-2013 at 05:22 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 05:22 PM   #43
JNR
Quidditas
 
JNR's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: May 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 9,145


Online
so, did the car remained strapped on the dyno while the plugs were changed?

Plugs will cost me ~$53 over 100k (I don't pay more than a dollar/each) if I change them every 15k, which with modern ignition systems is sort of excessive anyway, unless something's wrong with the engine/tune. I don't typically keep a car 100k anyway, but for sake of argument even if I did, I enjoy tinkering with the car and this is one of the easiest vehicles to change them, if you have the right tools; which really only consists of socket, wrench, extension(s) & a pair of really long nose pliers to pull the boots right off.

Nothing wrong with putting those plugs in, just saying that I'd rather use my $$ for something else, if I even end up needing to change them at all (say I sell it before 65k).

BTW - looking in my docs, even at ~50k miles the oems were showing signs of wear (I regapped them all to consistent at ~20k, took notes, then took measurements again at 50k-something when I changed them...So, just because they will still *work* at 100k doesn't mean they are optimum (mostly with gap).
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 05:28 PM   #44
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Points can be made all day about which is better this that and the other, and this has been discussed 1000's of time. Really to me there is no best. I don't think a plug will make or break me winning a race on running a better ET. As long as you don't run gimmick plugs or bad old plugs your good. I just put in there whatever I'm in the mood for. Just run what you want and what your wallet & conscience can afford. I'ma go back to killing some zombies with my son lol.

Last edited by Hitman9; 01-01-2013 at 05:31 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 05:36 PM   #45
sakeunited
Vice Pres. of P.R. @ G.P.P.
 
sakeunited's Avatar
 
2006 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pacifica, CA
Posts: 3,430
Premium Member


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman9...View Post
Haha, thats some good stuff. I guess depending on how to do it and the combo you make, it may wash itself out in the end. At least you now you have a nice set of wires powering the most conductive plug type. Fire in the hole for sure.

One thing I'm curious about is the running of a Copper Autolite (764) heat range 5 for the goat. I work in auto parts as stated before. When I check this plug out, their is a lot of copper there & doesn't look bad, any opinions or anyone running the Autolite. Its one of the cheapest plug I can get for about $1.35 each.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 04QSMGoat...View Post
Yep, Granatellis are without a doubt the best, but I run MSDs because they aren't far off the resistance value of Granatelli and that they are readily available around me if I ever need a replacement

@ both of you

I didn't think the $6/ea spark plugs were what i needed I don't run excessive rwhp numbers or anything that would warrant a $6/ea spark plug. Again Granatellis are the best, I've had them on my last GTO, they let you bend the plug boot away from your header after you plug them in

Last edited by sakeunited; 01-01-2013 at 05:39 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 07:08 PM   #46
Spooky_pitboss
F Wisconsin weather in the A
 
Spooky_pitboss's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 3,614


Offline
Send a message via AIM to Spooky_pitboss
So the only difference between the NGK TR55s, and TR5 is the pre-set gap?
__________________
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 07:30 PM   #47
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky_pitboss...View Post
So the only difference between the NGK TR55s, and TR5 is the pre-set gap?

Correct.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 09:43 PM   #48
Spooky_pitboss
F Wisconsin weather in the A
 
Spooky_pitboss's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 3,614


Offline
Send a message via AIM to Spooky_pitboss
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman9...View Post
Correct.

Last question, I promise.

So a TR55 at the slightly larger gap, is a "safer" plug to run than the TR5 at the smaller, OEM gap? I've narrowed it down to either of those, just gotta order them.

My mods are a 224R cam (224, 224, on a 581" lift 112 LSA) long tube headers, catless 2.5" exhaust, stock LS1 heads, CAI, and some other bolt ons with a full dyno tune.
I make just over 370rwhp.

Last edited by Spooky_pitboss; 01-01-2013 at 09:47 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-01-2013, 10:23 PM   #49
2004KID
Premium Member
 
2004KID's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: The Land of Garlic
Posts: 7,798
Premium Member


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistermike...View Post
Yeah, that's weird. The ribbing is for HER pleasure.

__________________
PHOTOBUCKET LINK http://s915.photobucket.com/




Best E.T. to date 11.93@114MPH
Hoosier Quick Time ET Slicks and MT Skinnies
Special Thanks to Raygnicky for all his help to make these times possible and to all my Buddies in our group!!
Also thanks to ACE for loaning me his skinnies.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 01:03 AM   #50
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky_pitboss...View Post
Last question, I promise.

So a TR55 at the slightly larger gap, is a "safer" plug to run than the TR5 at the smaller, OEM gap? I've narrowed it down to either of those, just gotta order them.

My mods are a 224R cam (224, 224, on a 581" lift 112 LSA) long tube headers, catless 2.5" exhaust, stock LS1 heads, CAI, and some other bolt ons with a full dyno tune.
I make just over 370rwhp.

Not necessarily. The TR5 & TR55 is the same heat range in accordance to the porcelain, only difference is the ground strap height & gap. The TR55 gap is more appropriate for your application. I was told all this from my tuner and what I learnt working at advance auto/online research. I have basically what you have, just a cammed LS. My tuner said for me to get TR55's; if they wasn't available get TR5's and gap them (which is a no no, but its was for temp use only). TR5's come at about .040" and TR55's at .055" if I recall correctly. Your stocks AC's have a heat range of 6 and a gap of .060.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 05:42 AM   #51
mistermike
10-4
 
mistermike's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 20,598
GKPW52

Online
Iridium plugs have two things going for them:

Iridium is nearly indestructible, yielding long service life.

Iridium can be formed into a very small electrode. The smaller the electrode, the lower the voltage required to arc over to the ground electrode. On the surface of it, this would seem to be a plus, and in daily drivers, it probably is. You can have a badly neglected ignition system running bad gas in subzero weather, and it will still fire.
This is exactly what OEM's want, along with being able to brag about 100K service intervals. (won't need replacement til it's out of warranty, when the dealer can now charge you $$$ for extracting the plugs that have welded themselves into the aluminum heads after 100K.)

The fact that iridium plugs will perform well in a car with neglected maintenance under adverse conditions does not necessarily mean that the plug is optimized for high performance. Iridium has relatively poor heat conduction compared to softer, more vulnerable metals. This will yield a somewhat narrower heat range than a copper or silver plug, with an increased tendency to detonate when pushed to the limits in a high performance engine.

Plugs used for racing are typically copper positive electrodes with the ground strap cut back to reduce the "shadow" it casts, and improving flame kernel propagation. Obviously, this is not a recipe for long life, but it does get the most rapid, even flamefront with less tendency to detonate. A side benefit of race engines requiring frequent plug changes, is the opportunity to inspect the plugs and verify that proper ignition is occuring in each cylinder. If you change your plugs every 5 years, do you really have any idea what's going on in the combustion chamber?

Lastly, the iridium tips are a double edged sword in nitrous and extreme drag engine applications that typically melt spark plugs. Normally, melting isn't that big a deal, since the metal is vaporized and expelled through the exhaust system as a gas. However iridium, with it's extremely high melting point is a different situation. The base metal the iridium electrodes are laser welded to, will soften to the point where the welds fail, leaving the hard iridium tip to bounce around the combustion chamber, potentially causing damage to rings and cylinder walls.

I like iridium plugs for DD's or cars that are extremely difficult to change plugs, but for a GTO targeted for high performance, it isn't my first choice, especially in a car in which it is absurdly easy to change plugs.
__________________
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h306/MikeStainlessWorks/SigPicAniSm.gif
World's First Twin Screw Pontiac GTO

Blown H/C 408 and other stuff. Billet tires. Plasti Dip tints. Stage 3 keyboard. /////.
2008 HHR SS tweaked
2003 CTS w/ dead hooker in spacious trunk
fquick
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 07:21 AM   #52
aikidoshadow
Hooker Cookies
 
aikidoshadow's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Harlingen, TX
Posts: 143


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistermike...View Post
Iridium plugs have two things going for them:

Iridium is nearly indestructible, yielding long service life.

Iridium can be formed into a very small electrode. The smaller the electrode, the lower the voltage required to arc over to the ground electrode. On the surface of it, this would seem to be a plus, and in daily drivers, it probably is. You can have a badly neglected ignition system running bad gas in subzero weather, and it will still fire.
This is exactly what OEM's want, along with being able to brag about 100K service intervals. (won't need replacement til it's out of warranty, when the dealer can now charge you $$$ for extracting the plugs that have welded themselves into the aluminum heads after 100K.)

The fact that iridium plugs will perform well in a car with neglected maintenance under adverse conditions does not necessarily mean that the plug is optimized for high performance. Iridium has relatively poor heat conduction compared to softer, more vulnerable metals. This will yield a somewhat narrower heat range than a copper or silver plug, with an increased tendency to detonate when pushed to the limits in a high performance engine.

Plugs used for racing are typically copper positive electrodes with the ground strap cut back to reduce the "shadow" it casts, and improving flame kernel propagation. Obviously, this is not a recipe for long life, but it does get the most rapid, even flamefront with less tendency to detonate. A side benefit of race engines requiring frequent plug changes, is the opportunity to inspect the plugs and verify that proper ignition is occuring in each cylinder. If you change your plugs every 5 years, do you really have any idea what's going on in the combustion chamber?

Lastly, the iridium tips are a double edged sword in nitrous and extreme drag engine applications that typically melt spark plugs. Normally, melting isn't that big a deal, since the metal is vaporized and expelled through the exhaust system as a gas. However iridium, with it's extremely high melting point is a different situation. The base metal the iridium electrodes are laser welded to, will soften to the point where the welds fail, leaving the hard iridium tip to bounce around the combustion chamber, potentially causing damage to rings and cylinder walls.

I like iridium plugs for DD's or cars that are extremely difficult to change plugs, but for a GTO targeted for high performance, it isn't my first choice, especially in a car in which it is absurdly easy to change plugs.

I got some AC Delco Iridium one step colder for mine and then some OEM wires. Going to run a 75-100 wet shot. The Direct injection, Forced induction ecotec guys run iridiums, some even with N2O on the turbo for anti lag. Most of the port injected turbo/supercharged ecotec guys run copper tips though.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 08:28 AM   #53
Spooky_pitboss
F Wisconsin weather in the A
 
Spooky_pitboss's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 3,614


Offline
Send a message via AIM to Spooky_pitboss
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman9...View Post
Not necessarily. The TR5 & TR55 is the same heat range in accordance to the porcelain, only difference is the ground strap height & gap. The TR55 gap is more appropriate for your application. I was told all this from my tuner and what I learnt working at advance auto/online research. I have basically what you have, just a cammed LS. My tuner said for me to get TR55's; if they wasn't available get TR5's and gap them (which is a no no, but its was for temp use only). TR5's come at about .040" and TR55's at .055" if I recall correctly. Your stocks AC's have a heat range of 6 and a gap of .060.

So the TR55s at .055" is the plug most people close to my situation are running by NGK?

Thanks for all the info, i'm learning a lot here.

Last edited by Spooky_pitboss; 01-02-2013 at 11:19 AM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 11:36 AM   #54
mistermike
10-4
 
mistermike's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 20,598
GKPW52

Online
Quote:
Originally Posted by aikidoshadow...View Post
The Direct injection, Forced induction ecotec guys run iridiums, some even with N2O on the turbo for anti lag. .

And last year, 1,412,791 people got sexually transmitted diseases, despite the fact that they are 100% preventable.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 11:37 AM   #55
Hitman9
Registered User
 
Hitman9's Avatar
 
2005 GTO Owner

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KY
Posts: 443


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky_pitboss...View Post
So the TR55s at .055" is the plug most people close to my situation are running by NGK?

Thanks for all the info, i'm learning a lot here.

No problem. Your are correct. I run the TR55 (3951) for many miles & honestly is my plug of choice, I just got bored one day and wanted to try these Bosch Finewire platinums, both work fine with really no change.

EDIT: Gotta give props to mistermike, anybody who writes a novel to get a point across needs some respect, Kudos. Nice write up.

Last edited by Hitman9; 01-02-2013 at 11:39 AM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 08:00 PM   #56
dsclark
Registered User
 

Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,477


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNR...View Post
so, did the car remained strapped on the dyno while the plugs were changed?
.

Yup, it was still strapped on. The car was allowed to cool down a bit (I don't recall the exact number of minutes). Putting in the plugs didn't take much time.
You can quibble all you want about the 2hp number, but keep in mind these were plugs with 18k miles on vs brand new copper plugs, that's the part I stress.
For those who say that copper plugs are better for performance, how about putting up some numbers instead of opinions???

Last edited by dsclark; 01-02-2013 at 08:02 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #57
aikidoshadow
Hooker Cookies
 
aikidoshadow's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Harlingen, TX
Posts: 143


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistermike...View Post
And last year, 1,412,791 people got sexually transmitted diseases, despite the fact that they are 100% preventable.

And if your grandmother had balls she'd be your grandfather? lol

I have heard the same thing you are saying before and I'm not arguing your point, just making an observation of a possible difference in the direct injection engines. Usually GM sends the cars with platinum plugs from the factory, IIRC.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 08:41 PM   #58
Spooky_pitboss
F Wisconsin weather in the A
 
Spooky_pitboss's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 3,614


Offline
Send a message via AIM to Spooky_pitboss
Well looks like i'll get some 3951's TR55s at O'Rielly since Vatozone doesn't seem to carry them. I don't know why i'm in such a rush to put new plugs in my car, that sleeps all winter anyways lol. Gotta pick up a new spark plug gap tool too, since i'm sure the one I have is buried somewhere...

Thanks for the help!

Last edited by Spooky_pitboss; 01-02-2013 at 08:43 PM.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 08:43 PM   #59
Spooky_pitboss
F Wisconsin weather in the A
 
Spooky_pitboss's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 3,614


Offline
Send a message via AIM to Spooky_pitboss
Hate to bring up another topic beaten to death, but i'm not sure anyone has in relation to LSx motors.

Does anyone index their plugs? I understand the idea behind it, but not sure if it's worth the extra trouble. Kinda doubt it is...
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-02-2013, 08:48 PM   #60
aikidoshadow
Hooker Cookies
 
aikidoshadow's Avatar
 
2004 GTO Owner

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Harlingen, TX
Posts: 143


Offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky_pitboss...View Post
Hate to bring up another topic beaten to death, but i'm not sure anyone has in relation to LSx motors.

Does anyone index their plugs? I understand the idea behind it, but not sure if it's worth the extra trouble. Kinda doubt it is...

I did when I ran N2O and a blower on my Ecotec, but I haven't on the GTO N/A.
I wouldn't think it would be worth it slightly modded.
  Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the LS1GTO.com Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:25 AM.




Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2003-2008, LS1GTO.com
Site Banner Design ©2005-2007, Cylosoft

LS1GTO.com is not affiliated with General Motors Corp.