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Old 06-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericwilloughby...View Post
Yes. Yes it is.

Why is that causing my vibration?

I don't build transmissions for a living, but I did rebuild mine, it came out of a motorhome with ball bearing tail support & drum park brake. I looked at converting to a normal tailshaft setup so that I could run a TH400 slip yoke, but when it is set about 3/4" from bottoming out it really didn't seem very well supported.

Does your slip yoke have very much run out?

A brave person could put the car up on jack stands and watch underneath while someone else runs the car up to about 100 mph...if the vibration is as bad as you say, I bet you can see the driveshaft start to 'whip'.
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:33 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericwilloughby...View Post
Every single day.
Well, I stay home on Sun

I'll get together pics of the various destruction
Pump
Input sprag cracked through
Converter exploded

It's usually 3-4 clutches though

This is me. I love hearing of people who drive there cars hard and enjoy driving them instead of avoiding them to keep miles off their cars like this car is gonna go up in value. lol

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Old 06-18-2012, 08:26 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinturbo496...View Post
Does your slip yoke have very much run out?

A brave person could put the car up on jack stands and watch underneath while someone else runs the car up to about 100 mph...if the vibration is as bad as you say, I bet you can see the driveshaft start to 'whip'.

Funny, I did this, but I didn't have to run it that fast to see the yoke flop around in the tailshaft. Problem is, I've tried 3 yokes and 3 new bushings. Same .060 or so clearance. WIT says there is only one size bushing for the 4l80 and Drive Shaft Shop says the clearance isn't that bad once it gets up to op temp. It has been suggested that I have a machine shop make a tighter bushing. But no one else is having this trouble, so what is differant with mine?
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:55 AM   #94
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Funny, I did this, but I didn't have to run it that fast to see the yoke flop around in the tailshaft. Problem is, I've tried 3 yokes and 3 new bushings. Same .060 or so clearance. WIT says there is only one size bushing for the 4l80 and Drive Shaft Shop says the clearance isn't that bad once it gets up to op temp. It has been suggested that I have a machine shop make a tighter bushing. But no one else is having this trouble, so what is differant with mine?

On my hot rod I got around the slip yoke problem the wrong way... I should have just bought another output shaft & tail shaft housing, but instead I kept the ball bearing support, I removed the drum park brake, but kept the enormous motorhome u-joint fixed yoke (1410 or 1450 can't remember...)

I had the local truck driveshaft shop make me a 3.5" OD steel driveshaft with a slip in it like a typical 4x4 front driveshaft, but in this case the slip splines are huge since they are sized for the 1410 joint. It looks sort of stupid but has gone 165+ several times at the salt flats (6200 rpm in OD with the converter locked) plus about a dozen mid 10 sec passes at the dragstrip.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:33 AM   #95
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A little trans update. I still have pretty bad vibration problems even after spending $500 on an AL 3.5 shaft and then sending it off to The Driveshaft Shop for high speed balance.

I don't know if I mentioned or not but the cause of my no lock-up problem was a valve inside the pump. Replacing the pump fixed that.

The 80E took a dump yesterday, I think the pump went out. Either way I bought it cheap just to get things installed and sorted out. So....I'm buying another 80 with a warranty this time. Looking like $1700 with a 3 year warranty from AutoZone/All Trans? I'd rather give Jake's my money but I've GOT to have a decent warranty. I'm tired of this shit.

Would someone tell me which year/model trans to order so I get the proper tail shaft? I'd love for this trans change to fix my VIBRATION problem. And it would also be nice to have the long shift rod and the 2 bosses on the case to bolt the gear selector switch too. Please.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:52 AM   #96
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What's the latest on this? I just got here.

Keep at it! You will absolutely love it once you get the kinks worked out.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:18 AM   #97
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I bought the 3 year warranty trans from autozone/all trans for a 2005 chevy truck 2500hd. It has all the bosses and even the top bellhousing bolt hole. Came with a reman converter, nice heavy cooler, line filter. I was impressed for $1750. Also has the tailshaft for a slip yoke Instead of the bolt on type I had. I hoped it would cure my vibration. It didnt. Helped a little but its still there above 80.
Question for u. On the pinion, I changed my guibo over to a u joint type yoke without disassembling the dif or replacing the crush collar. Ive tried more and less tq on the nut to no avail. Could this be my vibration?
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:54 AM   #98
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I doubt that's the cause of the vibration. My bet is that it's the one-piece DS. Since I went straight to a modified stock two-piece, I can't say for sure. But mine has never vibrated. I have read on this forum about others having vibration issues with a one-piece. That, and cost were the motivating factors in sticking with the stock DS. My car is also street driven with street tires. I'd have to pony up for an aftermarket DS if I ever decided to put slicks on. If I do get an aftermarket DS eventually, I would pay the extra $$$ for the two-piece. But at $1000...Ouch! That's what I paid for my modified 4L80e.

BTW: I didn't change the rear yoke. Just the front.

Last edited by GNXClone; 01-02-2013 at 07:55 AM. Reason: added
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:54 AM   #99
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I also heard they were hit or miss but took a chance on the one piece. I have never had any sort of vibration and have been over 140 with it.

I got the DSS one piece aluminum shaft.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:53 PM   #100
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I talked to a customer today who toasted his trans this weekend and looking for a built one and curious what the difference benefits of the 80 over the 65 is?
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:17 PM   #101
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The 65 fully built is good for 600hp max and the 80 will do 1000 all day long. That's the only benefit. Durability.

The 80: It's a little heavier, #30. all the ratio's are closer together, 1st is higher and OD is lower. Some say thats better for racing but I perfer the tallest OD possible.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:55 PM   #102
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Keep up the good work Eric.You give me hope of high horsepower. Kudo's my friend.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:31 PM   #103
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Thanks. That steel chicken quote is hilarious.
This year has been a disaster for the goat. Damn cats have took all my money and almost ruined my block. ill have it back together next weekend. Hopefully itll last a year or 2 this time
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:29 AM   #104
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So what is total cost into the project for 2012?
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:59 AM   #105
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About as cheap as his cheap turbo build.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:21 AM   #106
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Im not gonna let u guys trash on me because ive had some really bad luck this year. Shit happens. Its not the turbo builds "fault" that the damn converters got clogged. If u dont want to have trouble with a car u better leave it stock and dont f##k with it
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:47 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericwilloughby...View Post
Im not gonna let u guys trash on me because ive had some really bad luck this year. Shit happens. Its not the turbo builds "fault" that the damn converters got clogged. If u dont want to have trouble with a car u better leave it stock and dont f##k with it

You used to post coherently. What happened?
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:50 AM   #108
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I support you Eric.

You have definitely had your share of bad luck. I admire your perseverance. Once you get it right, you'll be so happy with it that you'll forget about all the bad stuff. Well, you won't forget, but it won't bug you anymore.

I still say the 4L80e is the second best modification I've made, after the turbo kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericwilloughby...View Post
Im not gonna let u guys trash on me because ive had some really bad luck this year. Shit happens. Its not the turbo builds "fault" that the damn converters got clogged. If u dont want to have trouble with a car u better leave it stock and dont f##k with it

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Old 02-11-2013, 03:31 PM   #109
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Any updates. My tranny will probably the component that holds me back from the power I want
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:51 PM   #110
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Not really. My big complant is I spent top dollar on a quality aluminum driveshaft and it vibrates the damn dash at 90mph. Its also been my bad luck to get 3 transmissions with bad pumps. I wonder if pump failures are common on the 80
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:35 PM   #111
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awsome write up again eric. i am going to have to attempt a 4L80e swap on mine next. i already have your rear mount turbo set up with my own modifications "venturi effect" on my pipe diameters and intercooler which helped with the turbo lag. but now my 4l65 is the weak part on my build. im assuming there are updates with 80e swaps as far as new vendors selling parts to make the swap easier... so ill be keeping an eye out and researching these next few weeks.
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:58 AM   #112
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Quote:
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Not really. My big complant is I spent top dollar on a quality aluminum driveshaft and it vibrates the damn dash at 90mph. Its also been my bad luck to get 3 transmissions with bad pumps. I wonder if pump failures are common on the 80

There's no way to get it rebalanced?
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:24 AM   #113
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It's almost never a balancing issue.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:55 AM   #114
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Will the stock flexplate work with a 4l80 converter?
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:21 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PIYF...View Post
There's no way to get it rebalanced?

I had it rebalanced by the Drive Shaft Shop. Post 87 & 95

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It's almost never a balancing issue.

You're right. The only thing it could have been was the yoke I put on the rear end???? or just the fact that it was supposed to be a 2 piece shaft and I just couldn't get the angles correct.

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Will the stock flexplate work with a 4l80 converter?

I'm sure I answered earlier but no, not really. I think it can be made to work but I just went to a salavage yard and paid $20 for one off a 6.0 4l80 truck.

In retrospect, I don't think I would have ever been happy with the 80/driveshaft issues. I wish I would have got a 65 from RPM, Finishline, whoever, with a really good warranty and kept the stock driveshaft. I also like the tallest high gear I can get. Would have been ok with 2.73 in the rear.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:17 AM   #116
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I'm getting ready to try this swap. Sell me your driveshaft (or whatever else you want to sell)and by a 2 piece for this application. Ever considered going 2-piece?
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:32 AM   #117
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My son totaled it a year ago and I decided to let the whole car go to the insurance company. I didn't want to screw with parting it out. I tried to sell it for $6000 but couldn't so..I let the insurance have it for $4400.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:43 AM   #118
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Dang, sorry to hear
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:54 AM   #119
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It was a lot of work/effort but they paid me very well for it.
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:19 AM   #120
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Quote:
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There are a couple of options with the driveshaft. The good news is the length is the same and all you need is a slip yoke and someone who can cut the head of the stock shaft off and swap it. Been done on here for $200. The bad news is my local, Republic Diesel, said he couldn't chuck the shaft up in his lathe to cut it because the 2 halfs dont come apart??? But he said he'd build me a 1 piece for $300. Luckily, Kyle, jax4, sold me a u-joint type flange for the pinion that is a perfect fit. I believe he said it was stock on the late 80's pontiac GTA and Iroc???

I'll add pics of the driveshaft when it's built.

Pinion shaft is most likely from a Autrailian 9 bolt---danfigg
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