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Old 01-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #1
CrAzYGOAT
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Coolant crossover build...

ok so im putting together this build and so far i already have the fast 102 intake and throttle body. I'm looking to open up all 4 coolant crossover port and i was looking at this kit from kurt urban...

http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html

it is perfect except i think that block with his stamp is hideous... you can buy the little black adapters with -an fitting separate and i plan on just puting together the rest myself.

having trouble finding other blocks that has (5) -4an ports, thats where im hoping y'all could help.
-Thxs

examples:




not trying to step on anyone's toes or sell shit... just widening my search to people who know more than me.
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Last edited by CrAzYGOAT; 01-12-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:53 AM   #2
itslow
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Search for distribution blocks for fuel and/or brake systems. Lots of different brands out there.

That said, I think the cost vs. effect vs. appearance doesn't warrant such an expense for all this AN plumbing.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itslow...View Post
Search for distribution blocks for fuel and/or brake systems. Lots of different brands out there.

That said, I think the cost vs. effect vs. appearance doesn't warrant such an expense for all this AN plumbing.

short term maybe... but im in this for the long haul. plan on having this car for a very long time and anything to keep her going longer is worth it in my book. im just nit picking and this build is going slower than i thought anyways (due to getting out of the navy) thank you for the search terms.

and with all the talk about fast intakes running so hot in the back (#7) i would rather not take the chance. just picking the prettier of options. bringing it up over the intake makes it more effective so if it is going to be all out like that i would rather it look nice then some hack job with the LS6 tubes.

Last edited by CrAzYGOAT; 01-13-2013 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:46 PM   #4
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or http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=439023
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyGoatGruff...View Post



or http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=439023

finding that thing is impossible
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:43 PM   #6
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I made my own setup using this block:

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Old 01-14-2013, 06:04 AM   #7
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I will say the $ is worth it. I built my own rear to front with rubber line and a T. It looks like ass.

My friend bought the one you pictured above and it looks way better.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFSADRG...View Post
I made my own setup using this block:


im liking this one... just not a fan of the big honkin ones lol. what did you do for mounting it?
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #9
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I used hard line and bent them accordingly. The Edelbrock distribution block is blank on the other side and you can flip it so the E doesnt show.

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Old 01-14-2013, 08:55 AM   #10
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yeah the reason im doing this myself is just nit picking... i want to block to be off-center, towards the rear of the intake. nice setup though!
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:42 AM   #11
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I plumbed up the rear steam ports on mine using the Wegner adapters, AN fittings and reinforced hose. I'm working on a hardline kit now. I'll post pics later once I have some time.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFSADRG...View Post
I used hard line and bent them accordingly. The Edelbrock distribution block is blank on the other side and you can flip it so the E doesnt show.


That looks great. Can you give details on this?
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:57 AM   #13
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+1 in for details.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:21 PM   #14
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no sooner than i say i don't like the bigger dis. blocks do i find one that i like lol... still not a fan of the blatant ads, might call and see if i can get the words off and leave the logo.



reason for the continued search is i would rather have mounting holes than fab up hard lines so it can float. and since these are not under serious pressure than it dosn't have to be crazy -an stuff...

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Old 01-15-2013, 03:59 AM   #15
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In for results.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:50 AM   #16
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You could use something like a Lacquer Stik and just make the lettering black.

http://www.markal.com/lacquer-stik/
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragz...View Post
You could use something like a Lacquer Stik and just make the lettering black.

http://www.markal.com/lacquer-stik/

ehhhhhhh no thanks... rather not have to worry about coloring in letters every so often. have enough of a time cleaning all the freakin billet lol
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchicia1...View Post
That looks great. Can you give details on this?

Thanks. I used hard line, the Edelbrock distribution block, steam port adapters http://s41657.storefront-solutions.c...l.aspx?ID=3289, -4 AN tube nuts and sleeves, -4 to 1/8 adapter fittings, -4 push on hose going back to the radiator and -4 45 fitting.

According to the information I read from KUP (kurturbanperformance.com) is that the dist block should be highest point of the cooling system (above the radiator) since you want the steam to rise.

I have a FAST intake and a nitrous fuel solenoid in the way which I had to remove so I could make the lines. It helps to eliminate the rear engine removal bracket. Need to remove the stock front crossover tube. You will lose coolant when taking it off. After you complete the install you will need to bleed the cooling system from the distribution block. I did not and the car overheated the first time out. Soon I will add a 1/8 to -4 T fitting with a flare cap so I can vent the system without making a mess.

It cost me nearly the same as the KUP setup plus the time bending and polishing the lines. If I could do it over I would just get the KUP and flip the block so the name is underneath.

As far as any change in performance or cooling efficiency, I did not 'notice' any although I have no way to gauge if the rear cylinders, 7 and 8, temps have changed. The reason why I did the water vapor setup is more less for the theory that 7 and 8 can detonate especially running a power adder.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFSADRG...View Post
Thanks. I used hard line, the Edelbrock distribution block, steam port adapters http://s41657.storefront-solutions.c...l.aspx?ID=3289, -4 AN tube nuts and sleeves, -4 to 1/8 adapter fittings, -4 push on hose going back to the radiator and -4 45 fitting.

According to the information I read from KUP (kurturbanperformance.com) is that the dist block should be highest point of the cooling system (above the radiator) since you want the steam to rise.

I have a FAST intake and a nitrous fuel solenoid in the way which I had to remove so I could make the lines. It helps to eliminate the rear engine removal bracket. Need to remove the stock front crossover tube. You will lose coolant when taking it off. After you complete the install you will need to bleed the cooling system from the distribution block. I did not and the car overheated the first time out. Soon I will add a 1/8 to -4 T fitting with a flare cap so I can vent the system without making a mess.

It cost me nearly the same as the KUP setup plus the time bending and polishing the lines. If I could do it over I would just get the KUP and flip the block so the name is underneath.

As far as any change in performance or cooling efficiency, I did not 'notice' any although I have no way to gauge if the rear cylinders, 7 and 8, temps have changed. The reason why I did the water vapor setup is more less for the theory that 7 and 8 can detonate especially running a power adder.

did the one from wegner come with bolts? 80 bucks just for the adapters from kurt is nothing compared to wegners prices lol. and was the quality there?
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:43 PM   #20
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Yes, they came with the bolts and O-rings. From what I researched Wegner supplies KUP. Nice folks at Wegner when I called.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFSADRG...View Post
Yes, they came with the bolts and O-rings. From what I researched Wegner supplies KUP. Nice folks at Wegner when I called.

oh thats really good to know.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:59 PM   #22
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Thanks for the writeup and thanks for saying it cost almost the same as the KU one .

I will probably just buy that one.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:17 PM   #23
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got to hand it to them for presentation...
moving along slowly... but im getting there.

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Old 01-22-2013, 07:36 PM   #24
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I ended up just finding an early ls1 style one online for $35 shipped. On an ls6 intake, you can just chisel off some of the ribs off the bottom so it can clear.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:07 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchicia1...View Post
I ended up just finding an early ls1 style one online for $35 shipped. On an ls6 intake, you can just chisel off some of the ribs off the bottom so it can clear.

cu-does for taking the smart route lol... i think i am addicted to billet.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:34 AM   #26
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I think I'm going with the one nitrous outlet makes. All stainless hardline looks very nice, only works with certain intakes though. Luckily mine is one of them.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:09 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAzYGOAT...View Post
cu-does for taking the smart route lol... i think i am addicted to billet.



I am trying to go the factory look route this go around. I want the car to be a 500-550 rwhp sleeper. Just need that quiet blower now.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:12 AM   #28
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yeah this piece will be hovering over a lsxr.. nothing sleeper here lol
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #29
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Found some pictures of my setup during the fabrication to give a better perspective.





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Old 01-23-2013, 02:32 PM   #30
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this is the one from nitrous outlet that im going to use.
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