Chasing some belt slip, I just got back from quite a few pulls on the highway after swapping from the Maggie HD tensioner to the ECS tensioner and the belt slip is A LOT worse with the ECS than it was with the Maggie. Im sure its because I need to adjust the tension, and or get a different belt size but have a few questions:
1. Belt size: I used the gates HD green belt I had in the garage, which is 101 inch and it BARELY squeezed on (had to carefully pry it over the pulley with a screwdriver, when the tensioner arm was bottomed out using a breaker bar). This had terrible results. I then tried moving the position of the tensioner arm by using different mounting holes on the ECS plate that is mounted to the water pump and cylinder head, so that it wasnt such a struggle to get the belt on...still the same results.
Then I did the same thing with a 99 inch gatorback belt, trying it is multiple poistions on the ECS mounting plate with better results, but not as good as my Maggie HD tensioner.
2. I have read that the tensioner needs to be on the "tighter setting", I dont see where this thing is adjustable at all, besides the different holes on the plate. What am I missing? In the pic below I can see that there looks to be two different notches at the base of the tensioner arm, in the very center. Do you change to the other notch seen there?
Someone has to know what Im talking about here. Ive read a bout 20 different threads that all mention proper tension, using the "tighter setting", proper belt length, all good info. But, no one has mentioned how to achieve this tighter setting.
I just installed mine would also like to know if there is a “tighter setting” I have noticed there doesn't seem to be as much room on the tensioner before it bottoms out making it hard to install a pulley. The only thing I can see is the different mounting spots.
2006 gto spintech mufflers, xpipe, k&n cai, kooks 1 7/8 long tube headers, gmm short shifter, Bc coilovers,radius rod bushings,strut bushings, mp 112.
I've tried a lot of different lengths, I want to know using one set of mounting holes on the ECS plate is better than the others (for more tension) and also if the tensioner arm has different settings.
There are two sets of holes in the tensioner bracket that mount the tensioner arm to it. These two positions only change how much the tensioner arm is preloaded against the belt. You basically do the same tensioner arm preloading by using different length belts. So it really does not matter which "Position" the tensioner arm is mounted in as long as you have the correct belt length that produces 35+ ft/lbs of tension.
2005 GTO M6
402 LS2 with MP122HH On Top
670 RWHP / 672 RWTQ
I also want to point out that you should not setup the tensioner so that the arm is bottomed out and expect it to function properly. The tensioner arm needs to be able to move down at least an inch when the belt is fitted so that it has enough downward travel to accommodate the belt stretching and returning to normal size when you rev the engine and then quickly lift off the throttle. No matter what belt you use it WILL stretch and contract under load. The tensioner needs to be able to move up and down enough to compensate for this or it will jump off the pulleys. The other thing to consider is that when the tensioner arm bottoms out all of the extra belt force wanting to pull it down will bend the tensioner arm. This will put the pulley at a bad angle and then you will have congenital belt jumping/throwing issues.
I had great luck with a 100.5 inch Gator back belt on my 2.6 pulley. Arm is about 90 degrees with decent travel. I was told the same thing that too tight would cause slip as well.
Very newest ride . 2005 E55 AMG / 550 whp 600 tq bolts ons only =)
Newest ride; Porsche Cayenne Turbo
New ride; 06 PBM 35K miles Maggie 112 / 2.6 pulley 9 PSI / JBA shorties / X pipe /3 inch exhaust to Magnaflows
BC coilovers / Hotchkis F/R Sway bars / Endlinks / Bushings / built A4 tranny / 2800 stall / 11.8 with 1.8x 60 ft hot lapping.
I recently had your exact issue.
after installing an ECS Tensioner I THOUGHT I had more or the same belt slip. What is actually happening to me is .... Now that I have cured the front pulley slippage , I now have rear pulley slippage. In my case it was an easier diagnosis as there was a distinct sound that was not like the previous slippage sound. I would suggest that you verify where the slip is coming from by monitoring the belt dust etc..
Additional note: I am one of he few people have had bad results with the Gatorback belts, before the rear pulley slip started to happen I did have continued front pulley slip even with the ECS tensioner. I swapped out for my Gates and I was able to feel the difference right away. The rear pulley slip was evident as it happened only at high RPM. The ECS tensioner held the front better than I expected.
Well once again CHA-LEE was right, after alot of testing it doesnt matter which way you have the tensioner arm mounted. Found out great news, after chasing what I thought was belt slip forever, turns out my bypass valve is faulty. Disconnected it and car makes 9-10 PSI consistently through out the RPM range.
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