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Old 08-31-2012, 05:29 AM   #61
95bowtie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingsize...View Post
Well yours is an 04' so I'm not 100% sure, but from the work I did to get a hydroboost setup on my 06', all the front to rear proportioning seemed to be done in the MC itself. The rest was controled by the ABS module. I will be doing a full delete using new lines from the MC on within a few months, so I will find out for sure soon.

Maybe I'll just use one anyway.....will it hurt if there were two on there as in the stock built in one and the one I'm adding?
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:49 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by 95bowtie...View Post
Maybe I'll just use one anyway.....will it hurt if there were two on there as in the stock built in one and the one I'm adding?

As long as the front to rear bias is setup correctly, no it will not.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:47 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Kingsize...View Post
As long as the front to rear bias is setup correctly, no it will not.

That's what I figured but just wanted to make sure incase there was some sort of hidden issue behind running two if there is one stock.
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:16 PM   #64
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Since this thread is back let me add I fully support ABS deletes, getting rid of that big block and lines in the engine bay really makes it look clean.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:09 PM   #65
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I want to keep...

...this one alive as long as possible...8)

Is my thinking correct on this? I have an '04 track-only car and I am deleting my ABS but want the valve controls in the cabin. Since the factory proportioning is done at the MC, i'm going to T the front lines and drop in a single line prop valve from the MC to the T for the rears.

I'll have to do more line work, but have the room while the motor/trans/interior are all out.

Sound right?
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:24 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rucorey10...View Post
...this one alive as long as possible...8)

Is my thinking correct on this? I have an '04 track-only car and I am deleting my ABS but want the valve controls in the cabin. Since the factory proportioning is done at the MC, i'm going to T the front lines and drop in a single line prop valve from the MC to the T for the rears.

I'll have to do more line work, but have the room while the motor/trans/interior are all out.

Sound right?

Should work just fine.

We will be coming out with a manual brake kit soon that might interest you.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:20 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce1320...View Post
Should work just fine.

We will be coming out with a manual brake kit soon that might interest you.

Chris you probably already know I am I interested in the manual brake kit and the drag front brakes.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:52 PM   #68
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I would def like to get in on a pre-order, especially if it comes with a new (adjustable) pedal...

Dibs!
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:49 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce1320...View Post
Should work just fine.

We will be coming out with a manual brake kit soon that might interest you.

How soon are we talking and any idea on how hard to install with the motor in? Just wondering if I should push forward with my motor install or hold out for something I've been wanting to do for a long time. Can't wait to delete some more weight and clean up the engine bay. May as well just have my checks direct deposited to your account instead of mine.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:03 AM   #70
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LOL, shouldn't bee too long. I'll bump it up on the priority list.

We deleted the abs when we did the manual brake kit.
Took a couple different master cylinders before we found one that worked good but I love how it works now.
Also did the light weight brake kit at the same time, altogether it shed about 75 lbs
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:20 PM   #71
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Did it throw any codes or you just turn them off with hptuners? I know you like to keep yours as true to street form as possible. My plates are due this month and trying to get it all back together in time which isn't looking likely at this point.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:23 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rucorey10...View Post
...this one alive as long as possible...8)

Is my thinking correct on this? I have an '04 track-only car and I am deleting my ABS but want the valve controls in the cabin. Since the factory proportioning is done at the MC, i'm going to T the front lines and drop in a single line prop valve from the MC to the T for the rears.

I'll have to do more line work, but have the room while the motor/trans/interior are all out.

Sound right?

i deleted my ABS, and still run factory booster and master. Ran all new lines with a willwood bias valve in cab. I also removed my BCM, body harness, fuse box's, wheel speed sensors, and tons of other junk i didnt need any more. Not to sure how much the car will like it if runing all that stuff still.
Here is a pic of my set up. Rear line into car to bias valve, out of bias valve to hand brake, out of hand brake to a T off in the rear. I have had no problems with braking, and being able to dial in the Bias is real nice for a track car.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:48 AM   #73
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call me crazy

but if I was going to go ahead and put in a proportioning valve - I'd go a head and ditch the factory master too.

Save a touch of weight - save some complication etc. I won't go so far as to say ditch the vacumn assist - but you could if you just wanted to.




But the factory MC has the some Front to rear ratio in it - why bother tying the 2 outputs together into another block. I mean it will work but you could save some more weight and reduce your line count by replacing the MC.


If going all out - go all out.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:14 AM   #74
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limited time and budget.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:37 PM   #75
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not much weigh savings in a aftermarket master cyl , since ours is aluminum and plastic

the only weight savings would be going to non-assisted(no booster)
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:48 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by s/c'd cav...View Post
not much weigh savings in a aftermarket master cyl , since ours is aluminum and plastic

the only weight savings would be going to non-assisted(no booster)

The Strange Aluminum master cylinder weighs 2.1 lbs, not sure what the stock brake master cylinder and booster weigh plus the ABS assembly but I'm going to guess it altogether weighs around 25 lbs.
Main reason I did away with the ABS was to get rid of all the ABS crap under the hood
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:53 PM   #77
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i think maybe 1 or 1.5 maybe , but been a while since ive held the master

i do agree removal of the rest of the abs system is where the weight is at , not to mention fugly ass mess under the hood , lol

ill be ditching the abs in mine before going to a straight axle , so maybe next winter
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:10 PM   #78
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I believe forum member KRH0003 did this without throwing any codes, maybe send him a PM.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:29 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rucorey10...View Post
...this one alive as long as possible...8)

Is my thinking correct on this? I have an '04 track-only car and I am deleting my ABS but want the valve controls in the cabin. Since the factory proportioning is done at the MC, i'm going to T the front lines and drop in a single line prop valve from the MC to the T for the rears.

I'll have to do more line work, but have the room while the motor/trans/interior are all out.

Sound right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Napalm...View Post
call me crazy

but if I was going to go ahead and put in a proportioning valve - I'd go a head and ditch the factory master too.

Save a touch of weight - save some complication etc. I won't go so far as to say ditch the vacumn assist - but you could if you just wanted to.




But the factory MC has the some Front to rear ratio in it - why bother tying the 2 outputs together into another block. I mean it will work but you could save some more weight and reduce your line count by replacing the MC.


If going all out - go all out.


So looking at what these two said it seems that if I just install a ABS delete block a proportioning valve isn't needed since the factory master does it already....correct?
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:31 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by krh0003...View Post
Here are a couple shitty cell phone pics. Not the greatest shots, but you can see how much it de-clutters the engine bay.



Where did you get this guy? Do you just tie the factory lines into the right ports?

Or do you have to cut the ends off and put a different thread nut on there and re-flare?

Also can't really tell but are all the factory lines going into that?
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:37 AM   #81
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bump?!?
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:05 PM   #82
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I just installed an ABS delete block from a non sponsor vendor in my 04 today. I am getting the abs fault warning and the traction control is off. Other than that everything seems to work just fine of an 04. Just pulled the pump and module, added the delete block, and bled the brakes. Car feels great. PM me and I will send the link where I got the delete block from. I still have all factory lines in place so this is not a fix for that.
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:30 AM   #83
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I deleted my ABS using a set of jumpers spelled out in another thread. I use this to run a hydraulic handbrake at the track. I simply unplug the ABS module which also disables the traction control and when i leave the track, just plug it back in and you can have ABS and TCS back again. Its been awesome. Only problem is the beeping from the dash which I got rid of by taking apart the gauge cluster, finding the little noise pod thing, and popping it off. No more beeps!
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