*Update*
Later posts outline the V2 kit and V1/2 rear brakes.
This will be a little step by step guild to CTS-V1 brakes on a GTO. They will seem some track-day abuse and I will give my honest unbiased opinion on them.
I picked up the calipers from my local GM dealer. $360 out the door including the shim/pin kits.
First impressions; they are massive.
On a GTO the caliper mounts 180degrees off from the CTS-v location. This puts the bleeders pointing down so you have to move them to the top of the caliper. To do this you need to remove the crossover tubes and bleeders from both calipers then swap them over. They are covered in powdercoat so you will have to scrap the coating off the flare connections to get a wrench on them. The tubes are powdercoated to the body of the caliper so you will have to snap this off; this will leave an uncoated part of the caliper visible.
Brackets came in today; I sandblasted them and painted them with high-temp enamel.
Here is the cutting required on the caliper.
I'm using a big ass dremel bit in a drill to clearance the caliper. I taped up the pistons to keep metal shavings out.
HP+ pads.
Fastenal run for hardware. 12.9 grade 12mm 1.75 x 35mm and Nordlock washers.
So.. how do you guys who run this with stock 18s balance your tires? I just put my front tires on, gave one a spin, and pop went the wheel weight right off and a nice deep scratch on the caliper. If you put the weights on the middle section of the barrel instead of on the outer edge by the spokes will you be able to get a good balance without vibrations?
I’ve looked through every page of this thread about 50 times. I can’t seem to find anything about anyone having any “template-ish” measurements which anyone could take from a stock setup to ensure the CTS-V2 calipers will fit before actually going out and ordering the calipers and brackets. Would anyone be able to advise of any measurements which I could use in order to get a ballpark of if a wheel will fit?
I’m planning 44+ 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 Fikse FM5 wheels which aren’t crazy on the dish, nor is the spoke design extreme toward the inside barrel. I’m about 75% confident they’ll fit. I just don’t want to bite a $1k+ bullet if I’m going to be screaming that they don’t fit. Spacers aren’t an option for me…just not doing it. It just seems like (short of finding someone in Jax, FL willing to let me test fit my wheels on their car) a situation that I'll have to dive into face first and hope they fit...and I don't like that option lol.
I just fitted my stock 18s without any spacers and they clear by around 3 mm from the spokes to the caliper and another something like 3 mm between the barrel and the caliper. So make sure your wheels have at least as much clearence as the stock 18s and they will just fit. So if you can compare your wheels' specs to those of a stock wheel that should be able to give you your answer.
My wheels with no lip weren't even close. That caliper sticks out super far. I measured 1 5/8" from the mounting surface of the rotor to the edge of the caliper. You need that, plus 3mm.
So having already upgraded the front I'm going to be upgrading the rear brakes to the v1 cts-v calipers. The front I had to go to a BMW rotor, do I have to change rotors in the rear as well? I had just bought new drilled and slotted a few months ago because I didn't know I was going to do this. If they do need to be changed which ones do I need?
I also did a similar 'mistake' and got dba 4000 T3 rear rotors on which I only put about 2k miles and then bought front and rear ctsv brakes. I should be able to sell them now though.
So the 2006+ ZO6, I'm not doing Bohman's I'm making my own brackets like I did with the front, I just needed to know which rotor to use, I thought there was more than one. I was looking for drilled and slotted again.
Well I still can't get that star bolt on the rear parking brake that I messed up to move. . I have drilled the head off and I can't get the stud to move at all. It's sticking out in the back and I'm using some visegrip pliers to try to spin it and its not working. And I have drowned it in pb blaster.
I filed flat two sides of the part of the bolt that's sticking out such that I can put a 1/4" wrench on there to turn it but still can't get it to turn.. and the bolt head is drilled off already
Wow. If it were me, I'd put the longest pipe I could fit over the end of the wrench for extra torque. If it still didn't move... drill and retap maybe? I dunno man, that sucks.
That bolt was not going anywhere.. I gave up and just drilled it out. I will not tap it though, I will just use a longer bolt with a nut. This is not so critical anyway as it is just to keep the car from moving while parked if I even engage the parking brake, so it should be just fine. Of course I would have liked for it not to be like this but oh well.
Did you drill it with an oversized drill or smaller one then the bolt? If smaller than the hole can still be salvaged, if larger then still can be salvaged as well with helicoil.
I used a drill the same size as the bolt but it was slightly off center so I actually still have threads in the bottom but not on top.. I don't think its a salvagable hole, its pretty messy
Got all 4 calipers and front and rear bracket kits in. Gonna order my rotors/pads, but I have a question.
I've been looking at Hawk Ceramic and Hawk HP+ pads, and they both have two different options for thicknesses. Does it matter? I'm assuming thicker is better and will provide longer life, but I don't know if I'm missing something here.
Thicker as in closer to rotor? Doesn't seem like there was much extra room on my hawk hps pads when I slid them in...street pads though, hp+ a track pad?
1) How are you guys having your wheel/tire balanced as wheel weights on stock 18s don't clear V2 calipers?
2) I have a slight (only audible with window down) ticking sound relative to wheel speed coming from the front right wheel. I thought it was the gluey stuff from the wheel weights running the calibers but now thinking its a pad thing as it disappears when turning left. Any ideas?
This might sound really stupid, but stone in the tire tread? How far back did you trim your ebrake shield? You might have to lift the car and spin the wheels to figure that one out.