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Old 12-04-2013, 04:11 PM   #1
fishagto
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front wheel bearing DIYs?

Anyone have a link for a DIY on the front wheel bearings for an 05 GTO? Or a link for a free online factory service manual? I haven't had any luck locating a free service manual yet.

I went by Chevy today and they claim the front bearings only come as a pre-assembled hub unit with 2 tapered bearings inside for $450. Looking up parts at advance you can buy the separate bearings for about $13/each or a preassembled unit for about $150. It seems they are a typical tapered bearing with races and seals up front. Any reason I can't replace the bearings, races and seals at home?
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:19 PM   #2
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check out rock auto. they have full wheel hubs from
$100 all the way up to $260.

they also have all of the bearings you need to replace,
but I would just do the full hub.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:26 PM   #3
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the entire hub needs to be replaced as a unit in the front. You cant swap only the bearing like you can in the rear.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:31 PM   #4
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The one I had that failed ate the ABS reluctor, and as far as I can tell you can't buy that part separately. Also, it seemed to be permanently secured together, I didn't see a way to change the bearing.

I bought the timken front bearing assembly from rock auto, no problems yet. HA590006 and HA590007. Looks like they have some cheaper ones like raybestos that you could probably get for $100ish/set.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:55 PM   #5
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http://www.wikiauto.com/Pontiac-GTO-...ent-Front.ashx

this should help
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:56 PM   #6
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamwalker...View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyABZaLVhQ0

Nice link, thanks!
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbejj123...View Post
http://www.wikiauto.com/Pontiac-GTO-...ent-Front.ashx

this should help

.

Very helpful, this is exactly what I need.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:24 AM   #9
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Biggest pain for me was getting the bolts out of the back of the hub. I pulled mine to put ARP studs in them.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:42 AM   #10
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Does anyone have experiance with the Pedders front hubs? Are they worth the price? Im thinking my bearings are going bad and need replaced as well. Good to know that im not crazy looking for the bearings and only finding the Hubs.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:51 AM   #11
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Rockauto has a "Pro" hub assembly for about $57, raybestos is $80. Anyone used the Pro brand hub assembly?
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:43 AM   #12
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What are these things on a time release to fail/wear I have a bad wheel speed sensor and was about to search this topic yet here it is. I've noticed Summit has a WIDE swing in prices for GTO wheel hubs any advice? I'll probably replace these when I do the CTS-V brakes, should I throw some ARP studs on while I'm at it?


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Old 12-05-2013, 10:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My1970Boss...View Post
What are these things on a time release to fail/wear I have a bad wheel speed sensor and was about to search this topic yet here it is. I've noticed Summit has a WIDE swing in prices for GTO wheel hubs any advice? I'll probably replace these when I do the CTS-V brakes, should I throw some ARP studs on while I'm at it?


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Yes
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:28 AM   #14
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Have you broken a wheel stud? are you intending a spacer and or some other wheel combo that necessitates a longer stud.

if the answer is no to either questions - save the money on the ARP studs as you won't ever care.

on the hubs I believe 2 companies make them. Timken and SKF paying less than 100 per is a little dubious to me. considering the amount of metal in them and the inbeded encoder.


Replacement is fairly easy - get an impact socket drive 10mm hex key. the impact socket drive is important as you might have to bang on it.


I've not seen a set of hubs that didn't come with studs already in them. Course the ones I bought were from Rock Auto.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:32 AM   #15
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surely on this site somewhere there are still pics of these - but the hub unit is sealed, and carries inside the inner bearing race the encoder for the ABS sensor. thus the non-rebuildable unit.

There once was a thread about replacing them - pretty easy, jack car, pull wheel, caliper and rotor, with 10mm hex drive you find the 3 bolts - take them out - hub falls out. I suggest cleaning said bolts and putting fresh blue loctite on them.

reverse removal - connect wire harness. should be golden. there is not a relearn process for ABS sensor replacement necessary.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:34 AM   #16
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Here's some service manual docs in case someone needs them to print out. Looks pretty straightforward nuts, bolts, and swearing.





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Old 12-05-2013, 10:35 AM   #17
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wonder why rock auto sells the bearings separately, if the unit is not
rebuildable...

here's a pic of a raybestos hub ( thx rock auto )

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Old 12-05-2013, 12:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elephantrider...View Post
wonder why rock auto sells the bearings separately, if the unit is not
rebuildable...

here's a pic of a raybestos hub ( thx rock auto )


That was my thought. I found the bearings at advanced auto and figured they were serviceable. At least there are cheaper than GM ($450 each) complete units available.
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:40 PM   #19
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installed a new raysbestos front left hub assembly tonight. Took twice as long to get the rotor off than the actual hub assembly. No more bearing noise!
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:55 PM   #20
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I would not use a chinese/tiwanese, or other far east built unit, except japanese. This is where you get what you pay for.

I went with Timken. Moog of course is good, if available.
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:00 PM   #21
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I would have posted up if I'd seen this sooner, but it looks like you've got it handled. I did both my front hubs at about 120,000 miles since I was replacing shocks/struts/springs etc., and I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the old hubs came out.

By "easily" I mean "pounding the ever-loving shit out of them with a BFH" for a few minutes to break them free.

Strong work, fellow Goat man...Cheers!
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishagto...View Post
installed a new raysbestos front left hub assembly tonight. Took twice as long to get the rotor off than the actual hub assembly. No more bearing noise!

Most rotors have a little threaded hole on the rotor hat. If the rotor is stuck, get a bolt, thread it in the hole, and it will usually pop the rotor right off.

That said, I can't remember if the GTO rotor has that threaded hole or not. It's been a while since I changed mine, and they came off pretty easy.
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimbobaggins...View Post
I would not use a chinese/tiwanese, or other far east built unit, except japanese. This is where you get what you pay for.

I went with Timken. Moog of course is good, if available.

Anyone know what's different about the Pedders hubs, aside from $$$$?
Leaning toward the Moogs but if there is a "significant" difference I could be swayed.
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TObey...View Post
Most rotors have a little threaded hole on the rotor hat. If the rotor is stuck, get a bolt, thread it in the hole, and it will usually pop the rotor right off.

That said, I can't remember if the GTO rotor has that threaded hole or not. It's been a while since I changed mine, and they came off pretty easy.

Mine did not, but they are an aftermarket cross-drilled and slotted rotor, I looked for the threaded holes as well, no luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GannyGoat...View Post
I would have posted up if I'd seen this sooner, but it looks like you've got it handled. I did both my front hubs at about 120,000 miles since I was replacing shocks/struts/springs etc., and I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the old hubs came out.

By "easily" I mean "pounding the ever-loving shit out of them with a BFH" for a few minutes to break them free.

Strong work, fellow Goat man...Cheers!

My car only has 49k on it, strange it would already have a bad bearing, but it definitely needed to be replaced. I actually couldn't get the rotor off, so I unbolted the hub, put a pry bar behind the rotor and pulled the rotor and hub off together. Put the rotor on a couple of 2x4s and hammered the old hub out.
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My1970Boss...View Post
Anyone know what's different about the Pedders hubs, aside from $$$$?
Leaning toward the Moogs but if there is a "significant" difference I could be swayed.

Email them and ask country of origin
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:14 AM   #26
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I've never had problems with Timken. I've had and heard of endless problems with the inexpensive options.
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:47 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elephantrider...View Post
wonder why rock auto sells the bearings separately, if the unit is not
rebuildable...

here's a pic of a raybestos hub ( thx rock auto )


the bearings are for the rear of the car and are probably mis labeled. or they were for a 68 GTO and equally mislabeled. I noticed when I bought mine that Autozone's computer system was mislabeled. but they oddly had the timken ones so that's what I got.

Quote:
Originally Posted by My1970Boss...View Post
Anyone know what's different about the Pedders hubs, aside from $$$$?
Leaning toward the Moogs but if there is a "significant" difference I could be swayed.

name and money. IIRC the pedders ones are actually SKF bearing kits.

Not sure what MOOG is using but it might be the same.


Timken units are the OEM, IIRC. and they were usually resonable from online places. that's what I ended up with. worked out great.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:48 AM   #28
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Just as an FYI, my Timken rear wheel bearings were stamped NSK. I asked Timken about this and they said they don't manufacture the rear wheel bearings and supply them from NSK.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:45 AM   #29
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Just as an FYI, my Timken rear wheel bearings were stamped NSK. I asked Timken about this and they said they don't manufacture the rear wheel bearings and supply them from NSK.

This is common in the automotive industry for bearing manufacturers. Typically, one company will make bearings of a particular size and provide to one or multiple bearing companies.

NSK bearings are pretty good.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:48 AM   #30
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Timken units are the OEM. Identical in every way. I got nearly 100k out of my first set of OEM units so I went with Timken the 2nd time.

I guarantee have seen 10 more abuse then anyone on here has put on them.

I changed them in just over 30 minutes the night before a track day.
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