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Quad eccentics vs Toe link setup. Drag Racers please

19K views 161 replies 40 participants last post by  LS2-GTO 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys.

Have been searching for a while but couldnt find any exact info.

What is a better setup for drag racing?

Run adjustable poly quad eccentric setup on the rear (like Whiteline, for example) and toe link delete vs. oem replacement poly bushings and upgraded toe links.

I want to set rear camber at 0*. Suspension is KW V3.

Some say to have upgraded toe links and others to delete them and run quad eccentrics for even better dynamic performance.

Its mainly for straight acceleration.

Serious drag racers are welcome! :)
 
#56 · (Edited)
Then you're indicating that the offset is to compensate for the soft
rubber bushing's inability to maintain toe settings accurately?

Still under acceleration the rear wheels will move forward and toe in,
and under braking, the wheels will move rearward and toe out.
I don't see how moving the pivots can help both conditiions.

Of course they designed the same thing into the front suspension, with the
soft radius arm bushings.:dunno:

The rear design and hard urethane bushing are a problem just waing to surface.
 
#58 ·
I know of two members that have had their cradle fail at the ears that hold the LCA
bushings....both had urethane installed. Cookie Monster was one member but I forgot the
second at this point.
The problem seems to take a long time to develop....Cookie had probably 30,000 on his.
And I believe in this thread that someone was speaking of failures of the LCA bushing bolts.
 
#67 ·
I decided to order superpro quad eccentrics. I plan to keep my Hendricks toe links.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 
#76 ·
Had the alignment guy break the head off my Pedders eccentric on the drivers side, after installing stronger toe links. I seen it with my own eyes, camber bolt would never adjust. Come to find out, you have tweak the toe and camber back and forth, until the desired alignment is in place. I determined this after we adjusted the drivers side, rear toe and the camber adjustment relieved itself. Right now Im with out a bolt head on the eccentric, and dreading the R/R. JB weld is my friend right now. Im of course am going with a one bolt through bushing design. Two bolt designs can go smurf themselves.
 
#79 ·
I have been running energy bushings at the inner position and one bolt design eccentrics at the outer position on stock toe link bars for about 2.5 years now. I was only able to remove about one degree of negative camber on each side. I'm still at almost negative 2 on each side. I'm on 05/06 axles.
 
#85 ·
We didnt mess with the eccentric bushings on our shop car, we just fabricated new inner control arm mounts and moved the inner mounts up about an inch to get zero camber, this lowered the rear about 2 inches with our coilover kit.
We also installed a set of our solid aluminum cradle mounts and a few other tricks.
We now have the car dialed in and pull 1.39 to 1.40 60 ft times on the motor and mid 1.3x 60 ft times on the bottle with ease.
The car is very consistent off the line now as well, give us a call if we can help.

We have Nebo's car in our shop right now, he will be getting the fabbed control arm mounts and solid cradle mounts like we did on our shop car.

Thanks
Chris
 
#91 ·
Would these spacers mentioned replace the bushings that attach the cradle to the sub frame?
 
#93 ·
Yes, We have found that once you remove most of the squat and take out the considerable amount of slop all the bushings have that the car hooks so much better and is much more consistent off the line.
Only problem with doing the solid bushings is it raises the car up. When you put the solid bushings in and then let it back down on the ground you see how much the car was sagging down with the rubber bushings.
We did a bunch of work to our car to get it to consistently hook hard off the line.
Our coilovers
Solid cradle bushings
Raised inner control arm mount points that allowed us to lower then car down with zero camber.

With this set up we have been able to pull 1.39 60ft times on the motor with no power adder and our first hard hit on nitrous went a 1.35 60ft a couple weeks ago.
All this is done on a 275 drag radial









 
#95 · (Edited)
A quick question Chris....when locating your new LCA mounting points
on the cradle, did you correct for the bushing centerline offset or
build it into the new mounts?
 
#101 · (Edited)
Looks good!

How do you adjust camber and toe?

The photo doesn't show the other leg....if it has a bushing with a threaded shank, then you should be able to accomplish proper toe.... but camber???

Your description made me feel that both side were constructed in a similar manner.
 
#102 ·
:coffee:
 
#108 ·
It's not an IRS.... but, curious if this
SRA kit/setup would resolve/eliminate most/all the issues being discussed in this thread?
Might even be more overall cost friendly.

Kind of mind boggling (at least for me) considering the various upgrades/cost for an improved/bullet proof IRS...
such as, but not limited to.... 8.8 or 9" replacement / Various CoilOvers setups / Bushings /
A-Arm notching or replacement / replace the cradle / eliminate Toe Links / etc etc

Additional pics of this SRA Kit....click
 

Attachments

#113 ·
The Moser SRA kit is a nice kit for sure, we sell them if anyone is seriously looking at getting one. We can also install it, there is some fab work required (not a bolt in kit)
There was a thread a few weeks ago where I priced our 9" kit out compared to the Moser kit and it wasnt any cheaper. In fact, our kit was cheaper because it doesn't require a brake kit.

And sure, SRA's and IRS use the same internals so they all are prone to breaking.
 
#130 ·
I ran Noltec quad eccentric and the Whiteline W62946 is just like it.

The thin bushing is used at outer front and the thicker one inside without toe link bars has worked perfect for me, get 0 camber at will with the inner and perfect toe with the outer.

Don't see what's all the fuss about using the quad bushings.

Here's a trick I found and a lesson in control, the thinner outer front bushings control the side movements under load associated with thicker outer bushing and toe links.

Money, weight savings adjust ability and straight line control, works for me.
 
#133 ·
I've seen some guys talking about not running any Toe rods at all, I wondered that as well so awhile back we installed a set of our Toe rods on a car and measured how much we could move the tires in and out with a simple adjustment of the Toe rods, I was amazed at how much the tires moved, we could get close to an inch of movement on the tires just by turning the Toe rods in our out.
I cant imagine what the car does going down the track or a twisty road with no Toe rods installed, I would imagine the suspension would be all over the place.
 
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