Many of you have been following along my previous threads discussing the issues I have been having with my built 347.
To sum up, it was burning oil from 2 cylinders. The plugs in those cylinders would foul within 30 miles.
I got to the bottom of it tonight. Ran a compression check...was perfectly fine. Did a quick leak down test by spraying air into the chamber and did not hear it in the pan. I was actually happy at this point and was hoping it was something in the head.
NOPE
Got the head off, and those cylinders have DEEP gouges running vertically the entire bore. When you feel the bore, it feels like you are reading brail. The other 6 cylinders feel great by comparison. I am already running slightly overbored at 3.905. The max you can bore an LS1 is for 3.908 pistons so I am pretty sure this block is screwed and cannot be saved but maybe you guys have a better idea.
Looks like I am smurfed. Andrew gave me a deal on that block since he is a friend at only $300. No way I will find another that cheap. I know the machine shop will try to avoid liability since it is now more than just a simple rehone and rering (they said they would cover that on their dime based on our previous discussion before we knew exactly what was wrong).
It is now a $600-800 dollar mistake....I only paid them $1800 for this job.
In b4 Mike ends up paying over 5Gs for a simple forged 347.
CURSE ME FOR NOT DRIVING THE 200 MILES TO ANDY. That would have been a minor inconvenience but it would have been done right. Yay I am now a cautionary tale. Learn from my mistake...go to only people you know and trust.
Ok I get it, my machinist sucks. We can stop with that now. The bottom line is I could have either gone to another machinist and lost my $1800 or give him a chance to fix it for free. Anyone would have given him the chance.
Seriously, wtf is up with Wiseco? Such a good reputation online. They seem like amateurs. I also got word they "wiped their stock clear of the bad 3905GFX rings" whatever that means. It made me skeptical for sure. Maybe my rings WERE bad the whole time and had a defect in them?
Yes, 3.905". I would rather wait for the correct rings rather than going with a set that "may work". Some used Total Seal with their Wiseco pistons, but I read some mixed reviews about Total Seal.
Anyone have any tips before I start assembling tomorrow? Motor is together minus accessories. Should I put oil on the cylinder walls and turn the motor over a bit by hand?
I bought a new barbell plug today because I didn't want to take any chances. I noticed one was already installed, so I pulled it out.
It was smurfing installed backwards. THE O-RING WAS ON THE INSIDE, IT SUPPOSED TO BE ON THE OUTSIDE AND THE REAR COVER APPLIES PRESSURE TO IT.
On top of that, the o-ring tore in half pulling it out and a piece of plastic broke off because of how it was oriented backwards. The o-ring fell in the oil passage that is right there. Luckily, I was able to fish that out with a straw. But I have no idea where any of the little plastic pieces went. I have a little shop vac attachment that I am going to try tomorrow.
What if I didn't check this? I would have had oil pressure issues.
What else is installed wrong?
I wonder if sealant was installed on the main cap side bolts...I will ask him tomorrow.
Damn man this really turned out shitty for you, and I am sure has been a big turn off for modding. This is my second Engine built in a month and so far both have worked out great. Guess I better count my blessings :/
I am done until the car is paid off at the very minimum.
I mean this motor may very well be fine. But the fact that the barbell plug was installed backwards means incompetence and inexperience. Unless the person who I bought the motor from installed it the way, but from what I heard it was an untouched 100k mile ls1 so I am not sure why they would remove the plug and put it back. To install the barbell plug backwards means it has to be hammered in too. It is supposed to just slide right in if installed right.
Do you happen to have an oil pressure guage? Im curious what you get on first fire for oil pressure. I have about 15 minutes of run time now and carry 45lbs at idle.
No but I am gonna crank it until I see oil in the heads before first start.
On the prior build, the oil pressure was great so I know he put sealant on the main cap cross bolts on that build so I am hoping he did on this as well. It is still on the engine stand so I could take the pan back off and take a side bolt out and check. I am going to ask him and if there is any doubt, then I will disassemble the motor.
Well, you may have an issue with seeing it in the heads... I couldn't get pressure into the valve train until I started it. I cranked and cranked and cranked lol. Mains had oil pressure, but not the valvetrain. I read an interested read from Crane that said you should NEVER soak any lifter in oil lol.
Wow, they also didn't use the ARP lube for the main stud installation. What the smurf man. I don't know if this matters that much but it was in the instructions...
the o-ring on the barbell should be to the inside of the engine Mike
O-ring end of it inserts first. The plate just holds it in there. If you put it in the other way you need to change it back
***edit never mind...I went and looked at one and you were correct. Sorry****
the o-ring on the barbell should be to the inside of the engine Mike
O-ring end of it inserts first. The plate just holds it in there. If you put it in the other way you need to change it back
Not according to this diagram man. The o-ring is on the outside. And you can see the ridged end goes in first without the o-ring. It goes in naturally like this. The other way was forced and you couldn't get it back out because the o-ring catches on everything and rips.
This is also how I installed it on the last engine and had no oil pressure issues.
Here is another picture of the o-ring being installed on the outside too. There is no way you'd get it in without destroying it if you put it in backwards.