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ABS Brake Delete - Who's Done It?

31K views 89 replies 38 participants last post by  Dantigan 
#1 ·
Already did a search and only a scant few threads out there on the topic and nothing specific.

My First Goat has a manual brake conversion kit, but I'd like to retain PBs. Also saw SJM's F-body ABS Brake Delete kit, but it's not plug and play for the GTOs.

So has anyone removed their ABS hardware and just run power brakes? If so, any details you care to share would be much appreciated. Pics even better :)

Thanks
 
#45 ·
So for anyone that cares, I have completed my abs delete. I ended up ditching the abs delete manifold and just installed a wilwood proportioning valve. The hardest part was getting the spot welds that hold the cc and abs brackets in place drilled out. Once I got the brackets out, I mounted my prop valve, bent the lines, cut the lines to length, and flared the lines with the appropriate fittings in place. I've yet to start the car(still have to install the drivers side header) but I hope to have it done early this week. I still have to pull the cluster to snip the wire, as well as get rid of the harness ends for the abs and cruise control modules. So technically I got the plumbing done. I'm definitely happy with the way it looks now.

*edit* forgot to mention I installed a Lokar throttle cable after removing the cruise control. I had to get creative and cut the end of the stock outer cable off, drilled out the plastic piece to a larger diameter matching the threaded end on the Lokar cable, threaded it, then threaded it onto the end of the new cable. This was required in order for the new cable to fit in place of the old cable. I'll get some pics up this week when I get some time.
 
#58 ·
So back from the dead this thread goes......does anyone know if a proportioning valve is actually needed or is there one built into the master cylinder??
 
#50 ·
The 05/06 EBCM can be removed but you have to create a jumper harness (or cut the existing one).

GM is RETARDED, and does what is called a "Daisy Chain" CAN. That means every module has 4 pins instead of 2 pins. The CAN "passes thru" the module. If you tie the two CAN High and two CAN Low pins together you can by-pass the module. On GTO's you need to do this if you remove the TCM or the EBCM. The ECM and the PIM are the terminators (ECM always is) on the CAN bus so they only have one set of CAN pins.
 
#57 ·
Just an fyi for anyone else tackling this. I chose to remove the connector/harness ends for the cc and abs as well. When doing so, I found out the speedo signal wire that runs to the cluster is spliced into the wire running to the cc module(basically goes from the ECM to the cc module then back into the cluster). It's a purple wire with a white tracer and it is spliced about 3-4 inches back from the connector that plugs into the module. After you cut off the plug you will need to go back and re-connect the splice.
 
#65 ·
I want to keep...

...this one alive as long as possible...8)

Is my thinking correct on this? I have an '04 track-only car and I am deleting my ABS but want the valve controls in the cabin. Since the factory proportioning is done at the MC, i'm going to T the front lines and drop in a single line prop valve from the MC to the T for the rears.

I'll have to do more line work, but have the room while the motor/trans/interior are all out.

Sound right?
 
#66 ·
...this one alive as long as possible...8)

Is my thinking correct on this? I have an '04 track-only car and I am deleting my ABS but want the valve controls in the cabin. Since the factory proportioning is done at the MC, i'm going to T the front lines and drop in a single line prop valve from the MC to the T for the rears.

I'll have to do more line work, but have the room while the motor/trans/interior are all out.

Sound right?
Should work just fine.

We will be coming out with a manual brake kit soon that might interest you.
 
#70 ·
LOL, shouldn't bee too long. I'll bump it up on the priority list.

We deleted the abs when we did the manual brake kit.
Took a couple different master cylinders before we found one that worked good but I love how it works now.
Also did the light weight brake kit at the same time, altogether it shed about 75 lbs
 
#71 ·
Did it throw any codes or you just turn them off with hptuners? I know you like to keep yours as true to street form as possible. My plates are due this month and trying to get it all back together in time which isn't looking likely at this point.
 
#73 ·
call me crazy

but if I was going to go ahead and put in a proportioning valve - I'd go a head and ditch the factory master too.

Save a touch of weight - save some complication etc. I won't go so far as to say ditch the vacumn assist - but you could if you just wanted to.




But the factory MC has the some Front to rear ratio in it - why bother tying the 2 outputs together into another block. I mean it will work but you could save some more weight and reduce your line count by replacing the MC.


If going all out - go all out.
 
#74 ·
limited time and budget.
 
#76 ·
The Strange Aluminum master cylinder weighs 2.1 lbs, not sure what the stock brake master cylinder and booster weigh plus the ABS assembly but I'm going to guess it altogether weighs around 25 lbs.
Main reason I did away with the ABS was to get rid of all the ABS crap under the hood
 
#77 ·
i think maybe 1 or 1.5 maybe , but been a while since ive held the master

i do agree removal of the rest of the abs system is where the weight is at , not to mention fugly ass mess under the hood , lol

ill be ditching the abs in mine before going to a straight axle , so maybe next winter
 
#78 ·
I believe forum member KRH0003 did this without throwing any codes, maybe send him a PM.
 
#82 ·
I just installed an ABS delete block from a non sponsor vendor in my 04 today. I am getting the abs fault warning and the traction control is off. Other than that everything seems to work just fine of an 04. Just pulled the pump and module, added the delete block, and bled the brakes. Car feels great. PM me and I will send the link where I got the delete block from. I still have all factory lines in place so this is not a fix for that.
 
#83 ·
I deleted my ABS using a set of jumpers spelled out in another thread. I use this to run a hydraulic handbrake at the track. I simply unplug the ABS module which also disables the traction control and when i leave the track, just plug it back in and you can have ABS and TCS back again. Its been awesome. Only problem is the beeping from the dash which I got rid of by taking apart the gauge cluster, finding the little noise pod thing, and popping it off. No more beeps!
 
#86 ·
On an 04 the connector that goes to the abs pump/module has 3 pins that short to ground when the connector is not attached to the pump/ module. If you defeat the short on those pins the dash will not show an abs fault and the beeping is also gone. When the car is started the dash will go through the system check as normal. Then it will display the same T/C off animation that the car would normally have done if the T/C button had been pushed. The cruse control will also work again. No wires need to be cut and the dash does not have to come apart. Just add 3 small pieces of plastic to the connector where the shorting pins touch the connector pins. I used small pieces from a zip tie. Very fast fix and solves all problems on an 04.
 
#88 ·
Will work on getting pics.
 
#89 · (Edited)
#90 ·
I am very glad I found this thread. I have been searching for info on this subject for awhile. I am doing a project similar to Sam but using on 05 donor GTO. I have the entire wiring harness from the GTO and various control modules transferred into a 1969 firebird.

I would like to completely remove the ABS connector as it is unsightly in my 1st gen compartment. If I clip out the connector and splice wires 14 to 25 and 35 to 45 would I be able to "wire diet" the rest of the wires from the abs connector? Has anyone else removed their connector when removing their ABS system on an 05/06?
 
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