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Transmission replacement guide?

3K views 40 replies 11 participants last post by  atx63bravo 
#1 ·
I need to go ahead and swap out transmissions, since it looks like I cooked my transmission last week. It is an 06 with an A4 trans, and I would like a guide on getting it out. I did search the knowledge base, and I only found the trans removal/install for a manual transmission. If you guys had any info that would be great, like where to find a knowledgebase type guide, or even any pointers you guys may have. I am taking this one out and swapping in a Performabuilt transmission, so does anyone know how much fluid I should put in it since there will be nothing in there?
 
#2 ·
I can give a few pointers. But I swapped my A4 out in the garage on jackstands. Not the ideal setup but it worked. The front was sky high in the air. Mine had headers already so some things might not apply as I don't know your setup.
All in all a basic job.
Disconnect battery
Put car on lift or jack stands as high as you can get it.
Unbolt mid pipes, O2 sensors etc. and remove exhaust.
I had to remove passenger header to get starter out.
Remove starter.
Remove drive shaft.
Unplug all electrical from trans.
Disconnect shit linkage.
Drain trans. I think I had to pour in like 6-8 QTS after install. Reinstall pan.
Remove bolts from flywheel to converter
Start removing bell housing bolts. I think there two at the top that required like 3ft of extensions to reach with a universal socket attached. Support trans with bottle jack or equivalent. I used a motorcycle jack. It had wheels and made moving the trans out from under the car so much easier.
Remove trans support brace and lower the rear of the trans. You will most likely need to do this to get those top bolts.
Once all is unbolted. Pull trans out. Obviously its not that easy.. the trans is quite front heavy due to converter. So have a few sets of hands if you can. Like I said the jack I had was perfect.
Wish you the best of luck.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#3 ·
unplug electrical connectors
drain transmission
remove bolts securing items to transmission
remove exhaust
remove bolts holding in transmission
remove transmission


:) its pretty easy
 
#5 ·
yea i mean ive had a few manuals out of a few different cars. its really not that bad.

the auto should be easier since you dont have to worry about the input shaft.. just unbolt it and move it off the engine.
 
#7 ·
Curious as to why you are going with Performabuilt?
 
#9 ·
I've done mine in the garage on jackstands a couple of times. It's a bit of a pain to just safely get the car really high in the air.

A couple of comments:
  • I never removed my starter (just let in hang there), so didn't have to unbolt the header
  • The dipstick is supported at the rear of the pass side head
  • I find it easier to remove the intake and get the top three bolts easily from above (easier to get that dipstick bolt too)

Ohh and...
 
#8 ·
you will also have to remove the trans dipstick tube , easiest way i found , is to un bolt the trans mount and raise the rear of the trans to the floor that gives some more room between the head and the fire wall.
 
#15 ·
My honest opinion is that there are better options out there. When my trans went in late summer and I was doing research and reading up, it was hit and miss with them. Sometimes they got it right, and other times not so much. If I were to buy a built unit, it would be from RPM. In any case, I had mine rebuilt here at my shop for almost next to nothing as far as trans rebuilds go. I would reconsider it again if you can. I would even call FTI up and see if they can do something for you.
 
#16 ·
I may just go ahead and pull the stocker, swap this one in since it is already on a UPS truck headed down to Texas as of Monday, and then have the stocker rebuilt. Maybe I can find somewhere to send it and have it built and then just keep it as a back up. I am wondering why this happened to be honest. Anyone know any good places in Austin to get the TC checked out? I have a circle D 3200 stall in there right now.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Low fluid level, debris, dirt, heat, etc. 3-4 clutch failure along with the forward clutches being toast as well is a common issue in the 4L60E/65E. It just happens when you start putting a lot of power through these transmissions. It's definitely frustrating. As far as the TC getting checked out, I would seriously consider having it sent to Circle D for inspection and cleaning. If you can't and are in a pinch, try to fill and drain the TC as much as reasonably possible to ensure that you get as much debris out as possible. Also flush your lines as another member suggested.
 
#19 ·
yea id definintely send it back to circle d for a check up.
 
#21 ·
I put an exceptionally large photo down here so you can expanmd it and clearly see the bolt holes in the back of the block. Also the torque sequence on the flexplate if you change that too.



Longassed extenstion getting to the top bolts
 
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#24 ·
My bell housing bolts came out pretty easy too. I used a regular torx on mine though. I was just really careful.
 
#23 ·
FWIW. I have a Performabuilt and I beat the living dog crap out of it every time I turn the key in my car. I'm serious.....every time. I have had good experiences with mine. A few thousand HARD miles on the first one with zero problems until I got caught in flood water. Insurance claimed that none and have 2k on this one with zero problems so far.

Also as far as those top three bolts go just use a ratchet wrench. It works miracles.
 
#28 ·
When you have a new trans and converter on the bench. Fill the conveter about half full of trans fluid. Insert the converter into the trans as far as you can, put a little pressure on it---with your hand, and then turn it until you feel it slip into the pump with a solid clank. Install the trans on the engine, look at the mounting feet on the converter and line them up with the mounting holes in the flex plate---do not let the converter slide toward the flexplate yet. Now measure the gap between the converter mounting tabs and the flexplate. Make sure it is no more than 3/16". If it is, get the correct thickness spacer and gap it correctly. If it is too big of a gap, when you pull the converter to the flexplate, you are pulling the pump drive out of the pump and it will probably crater on you when you jam on the gas.
 
#32 ·
Could this cause a no lock up concern over time??
 
#33 ·
The shim part will be the easiest part of the install aside from unbolting the d/s. Dont let it scare you away from doing it yourself.
 
#35 ·
So I got the transmission out today, and I noticed that in the bag of seals with the new transmission was two new orings. I dont know where to put these. I dont see two small o-rings anywhere. Do these do INSIDE the transmission and then I screw in the press on line fittings? Or do I need to put them inside the fittings themselves where the lines press in to? I didnt see o-rings in their either, and it was not leaking from there at all when the trans was in the car before.
 
#36 ·
Basically that bag of stuff is a "universal bag" of parts. Its put together for the various transmissions they sell. When you're swapping parts over from the old transmission to the new just look at the parts you're swapping. If the ones you're swapping dont have them (the o-rings) then you wont be using them. There were a few things in that bag that werent needed when I did mine. Hope it helps. PM me if you need anything else. Always willing to help.
 
#37 ·
By the way the big giant o-ring is for the tailshaft housing. The other small ones i'm pretty sure I didnt use. There is a new Dipstick seal in there too. Dont forget to put that in when you do the swap or when you shut the car off you're gonna be pouring that expensive ass synthetic ATF all over the shop floor......ask me how I know.
 
#38 ·
Awesome man thank you. It is two small black o rings, but I looked EVERYWHERE and I cannot figure out where the hell to put those things. It came with the big ass o ring (it came from performabuilt), the little line clips, two little orings and the output shaft seal.
 
#40 ·
Yep mine came with the same stuff. Didnt use the two little o-rings or the clips. I also went down to a local shop that builds steel braided lines and ran two of those to the cooler. Looks all pretty and junk. Got the lines and fittings for less than 50 bucks.
 
#39 ·
I ended up taking the transmission to AAMCO and having them take the bellhousing off for me because that thing was NOT coming off and I saw something about needing some "Torx plus" tool, which I did not have. It is the T-50, but I guess I need a "Tork Plus T-50.5 or something. Oh well, now it is ready to go back in. I need to fill the torque converter with fluid in the morning, then put it back on the trans and then get back to work installing it. Gonna suck but I gotta do it because I lost my extra pair of hands because of that evil thing known as work....
 
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