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Old 01-01-2017, 04:34 AM   #1
Rickybaht
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Hotchkis Sways

I have been running the Hotchkis sway bars at the stiffest setting for years. Its great fun when ripping around the corners but it's obviously a harsh ride in all other areas. The question is will it make that much of a difference if I make the adjustment to the least stiffest setting? For the GTO owners with this setup, have you experimented with the different settings? If so, was it that noticeable between them? Thanks!
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:19 AM   #2
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If you are just driving on the street, the middle setting will do you just fine. You will notice a difference in the corners, but it won't be that much.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:19 AM   #3
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I have them on the second notch and have no complaints. I want to say I read a magazine article that said the second setting was the sweet spot.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:46 AM   #4
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On my G35 the differences between the settings was dramatic. These were the single best bang for the buck mod I made on her out of over $10K spent. On that note I have started to get the sway itch for the Goat even though I made a commitment to myself to keep the Goat stock. Since I do almost all of the work done to my cars do I really have to drop the front and rear clip to install new ones? The G was an hour job total front and rear and I was having a discussion with a mechanic friend of mine and he said he looked into it and his shop would charge 8-9 hours of labor. Seems a bit much to me but I'll look arund here some more for more info.

OP sorry for the minor thread jack.........
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:37 AM   #5
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You do have to drop the front subframe to change the front. The rear is pretty easy. If you have large fingers you might need to loosen the rear subframe to have clearance to manipulate the bolts. I was able to change the rear without messing with the subframe. Big trick in the back is to get longer bolts for the bar mounting bracket so they are easier to get started.
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-Tripower...View Post
You do have to drop the front subframe to change the front. The rear is pretty easy. If you have large fingers you might need to loosen the rear subframe to have clearance to manipulate the bolts. I was able to change the rear without messing with the subframe. Big trick in the back is to get longer bolts for the bar mounting bracket so they are easier to get started.

He already has the bars installed. I disconnected and reconnected my front bar 10+ times last race season and changed the rear settings a couple of times without messing with anything but the endlinks
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:06 AM   #7
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For autocross I had the front on 2 and the rear on 4 to help it rotate . I had all stock springs with aftermarket rear shocks on average front tires and sticky 16" drag radials out back. Worked pretty good!
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogomofo...View Post
He already has the bars installed. I disconnected and reconnected my front bar 10+ times last race season and changed the rear settings a couple of times without messing with anything but the endlinks

He was replying to Blue Dream.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:01 AM   #9
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My bad....I read "on my G35" and didn't bother reading the rest.
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogomofo...View Post
For autocross I had the front on 2 and the rear on 4 to help it rotate . I had all stock springs with aftermarket rear shocks on average front tires and sticky 16" drag radials out back. Worked pretty good!

^ This
When I first started Autoxing the car I had multiple people tell me to go on the stiffest setting to reduce the body roll, none of which owned or ever drive a V8 that weighed as much. After many months of frustration with not getting the car to turn, I realized ( by realize I mean I did a lot of research and testing) that the car will turn hella better with the front loose, mine is on the second, and the rear stiff, mine is full stiffness. I also have BC coilovers.

Last edited by DaBBG; 01-01-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiPopeye36...View Post
He was replying to Blue Dream.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogomofo...View Post
My bad....I read "on my G35" and didn't bother reading the rest.

Yeah, I should have quoted him to make it more clear.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:45 AM   #12
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Just to chime in, I run my front sway on the middle hole and the rear on the 3rd stiffest setting of 4.

Having the front sway too stiff can cause understeer and plow. If the goal is less body roll then firm up the rebound on the front shocks (if you can).

And with the 3 of 4 setting on the back I get plenty of rotation without too much oversteer.

Of course the settings can change depending on track or autoX but these settings work great for me on the street. As nogomofo said for autocross the stiffest setting on the rear would probably work better for rotating the car around the tight turns.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Dream...View Post
On my G35 the differences between the settings was dramatic. These were the single best bang for the buck mod I made on her out of over $10K spent. On that note I have started to get the sway itch for the Goat even though I made a commitment to myself to keep the Goat stock. Since I do almost all of the work done to my cars do I really have to drop the front and rear clip to install new ones? The G was an hour job total front and rear and I was having a discussion with a mechanic friend of mine and he said he looked into it and his shop would charge 8-9 hours of labor. Seems a bit much to me but I'll look arund here some more for more info.

OP sorry for the minor thread jack.........

The sways made a huge difference in handling performance on the goat as well. And yes you'll have to drop the front subframe. It's not hard, just make sure to pick up a set of Subframe bolts. The stockers are TTY one time use.

Also for the rear sway... Its a pretty simple install ,don't have to mess with the subframe at all. The hardest part is the clearance between the body and cradle. As mentioned you can use longer bolts to help get the bolts started when the new sway is in. OR you can do this mod that helped me tremendously... Notch your brackets:



Use a drill and widen the hole toward the inside. This will allow you to start the first couple of threads on the bolt with your fingers. No new bolts and no messing with the rear cradle.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:57 PM   #13
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being one of the few people that broke a rear Hotchkis bar. I figured I'd pop in. I don't venture into the tech forums enough on here.

So for years I ran Gwendolyn with front on middle hole - rear on 2nd hole from the front. ANd I ran it that way for a long time on the street. Loved it. I tried all the options though.

from full soft/full soft all the way to full hard/full hard. This won't be popular but here's the thing. Full Hard/full hard is too much for city streets - or more specifically unless running DOT R tires on decent smooth pavement - it's too stiff for complaince in the curves.

ON a track - a good track it was amazing stick. ON the road though any bump mid curve would upset the grip.

My 2 favorite settings on the street was Mid point front/and 3rd hole back - or mid hole front, and 2nd hole back.

This does depends a bit on the rest of your setup though. I had a diff insert mod - and the rear subframe inserts so the rear would plant hard up in a corner if I loaded it up. Love that - the sways kept the pressure even. ON a city street though - I found it needed some compliance back there.

On the front I had both Radius rod bushes (front and rear) but use rubber inner LCA bushes (they do work better) and i ran Lovells AUS height settings so I was slightly lower in the front.

I also ran stock tires front and rear. OH and of course big brakes.

TLDR - car needs some compliance in the back or it can HOP bumps mid turn - so don't use full stiff in the rear unless on a good prepared track. Full stiff up front is really useful if you have the grip. Nothing wrong with full soft on front and rear as that is still stiffer than stock.
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:42 PM   #14
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Here is good article on the subject.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-...kis-sway-bars/
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:39 PM   #15
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Thanks Naplam!

I pretty much have the exact same set up as you but have 20mm lower all around. Now that the beast is up on jacks for the winter I think I will make some adjustments to soften it up a bit.
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