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Pacesetter LTs and mid pipe install

6K views 47 replies 16 participants last post by  SkiPopeye36 
#1 ·
I'm going to use Doric's tutorial on installing headers. My question is can I just use ramps or will I need to jack in up higher and use jack stands?
 
#2 ·
I'd use jack stands. More room is always better.
 
#3 ·
True, I just have a phobia of laying underneath the front end of the car with jack stands. I just feel safer with ramps. I've only jacked up the rear of the car so far to install g force axles. I've always had trucks in the past and never had to jack the front ends up.

Was just wondering if anyone has done it just using ramps.
 
#4 ·
I tried with my rhino-ramps, wasn't high enough. Depending how tall your ramps are, you'll likely need to use Jack stands. You can always leave the ramps under the tires for extra safety, just in case. Jack stands are perfectly safe though, it's the jack itself that is more likely to fail.
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys. I was able to get the stock mid pipes and manifolds off with just the rhino ramps tonight. I'm a skinny guy so that makes a difference. Took about 2 hrs or more. Unbolting the front of the mid pipe from the manifold on the driver side was a bitch though. Especially the top bolt.

Now the steering rack tomorrow. Oh boy.
 
#6 ·
What I did to give me the most room was I backed the car onto my ramps. Then I jacked the front of the car up and put it on jackstands. I used truck jack stands too to get the car up pretty high. It worked pretty well.
 
#7 ·
The problem with just ramps is when you go to put the LT header in there wont be enough clearance between the ground to the bottom of the car so you cant get the header in there. At least thats the problem I had anyway.
 
#11 ·
I believe that you need either 14 or 18 inches under the car to get the header up in there. Taking the wheel off helps in getting the p/s line back on. I want to say that the ramps I made are 14 inches tall and that would have given me the room I needed but I ended up using a two post lift on base.
 
#12 ·
when i did mine i had the front of the gto so high my tailpipes were touching the ground basically.
 
#14 ·
Didn't get a chance to get to the steering rack today unfortunately. I found out this morning that part of the manifold bolt on the driver side rear had broke apart and a 1/4 was left in the head. SOB. So I called a friend up and I got his right angle drill and screw extractors.

How the hell I actually got it out, who knows. First time using a screw extractor set. So I started to drill into the bolt and the whole time I was really estimating hoping I wasn't drilling into the head itself. Visibility and room were slim. Well finally the bit broke and I was about to give up and just take the damn head off. But I had drilled just enough to hammer the extractor in and it actually got tight enough to screw it out. So thankful.

Then I had to go to a cousin's birthday party and I had a few beers and didn't feel comfortable doing anything else today :-/.

So here is my question for today. Looking at Doric's instructions, on step 3. There are two steel braces that run diagonally between the firewall and the frame rail. I rolled underneath the car to find these braces and I'm not sure if I see them. I've been drinking so that might be the reason.

Anyone have any pictures of these braces?
 
#16 ·
Just remove those braces and be done with it.

This should work for Pacesetter, but I've only done this trick with Kooks: lower the trans crossmember to lean the motor back after you install the headers. This will give you ample clearance to get to the power steering lines from above with a regular wrench. Easy peasy, Japaneesy.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I've already removed those braces and dropped the steering rack last night. Going to start installing headers tonight. FINALLY.

Got a freaking oil leak somewhere too. Looking from the bottom, I can tell it's not from the valve covers or heads. Looks like it's may be the oil pan or maybe the oil filter? It's not bad because I never see any leaking on the floor but I do see oil trails.
 
#18 ·
If it is on the side, then it could be one of the side bolts for the main caps leaking. If it is on the front, then it could be that the timing cover was off and the person didn't put RTV on the corners where the block meets the pan, or the seal around the balancer is leaking. If it is on the back, then it will most likely be the rear main. If it is around the oil filter, then it could be the filter itself. I've had a brand new filter leak before.
 
#21 ·
I live in Kinston. About 1.5hrs east of Raleigh. Since the last time I took my car to a shop, I feel like I can't trust any shops around here. That's why I'm installing these headers and mid pipes myself. Might take me longer than other people but I'll know it's done correctly. Plus I want the experience.
 
#23 ·
Sounds like a plan. Get up with me when you get back man.

Did anyone buy all brand new header bolts before installing their headers? I figured since one of mine broke off into the head the integrity of these bolts were diminishing. So I was going to buy all new bolts but couldn't find any at Advance, Auto Zone or O'Reily. A friend of mine that works in a diesel shop found a couple bolts that will work so I'm good to go but I just hate that I'm using the stock bolts.
 
#24 ·
Alper Motorsports sells stainless header studs for $20.

The best damn $20 you will ever spend...unless you manage to get Emma Stone into bed after an Applebees 2 for $20 meal. Then that would be the best $20 ever spent.
 
#29 ·
I used ARP bolts since I went through the broken bolt hell when doing my headers. Never again!

Before bolting on the driver side header, let it hang so you can move it around to push the PS lines back in from the top then hand tighten them. You can tighten the top line from the top with the header hanging loose and then you can tighten the bottom one from under the car after you bolt the header on the head.

It's also easier to have 4 jackstands and lifting the rear too. That way you don't scrape your tips and you can push the catback back and forth to attach the midpipes.
 
#31 ·
Got my new header bolts in today.

But before I start installing the headers and new mid pipe, I need to change out my crankshaft position sensor. So do I need to remove the starter solenoid to get to it? I can get my hand up in there with the heat shield off but I would be working blind.
 
#33 ·
just got done doing this on my car and i gotta say it was definatly one of the worst experiences ive ever had working on a car i still gotta fix mine i put the steering linkage on backwards so my steering wheel is upside down :(......i had to take the rack off completely tie rods and all. finally in and im super happy with the sound and performance but if i had to do it all over again id just pay someone to install them for me.
 
#34 ·
Ouch. Yea I finally had to use a hammer to knock off the linkage that connects to the rack.

I'm going to start putting the headers on tomorrow night. Is the steering rack capable of coming completely out of the cradle without taking off the tie rods? I have it half way out but I'm scared to go any further because one, it doesn't feel like it will come out any further and two, it looks like its putting a lot of strain where the tie rod connects to the steering knuckle.
 
#35 ·
It's not a cake walk job to do but if your new @ working on these cars it could be a challenge , I recommend if your going to tackle a job like this do as much research on this forum there's tons of great info to walk you thru most jobs on our cars . Being that said I'm glad you got that sucker together and your happy wth your results . Good stuff man
 
#37 · (Edited)
My install wasn't bad at all, I just took my sweet ass time.....



....that is until I accidentally started to cross threaded a spark plug hole. (Incredibly embarresed btw even still) Then had a mechanic buddy save the threads for me.

Took about 10 hours going slow, being methodical, deliberate, and patient. Spent about 45 min getting the steering lines back on. I knew they were going to be a bear so I was super patient about em. Oh also done on jack stands. :)
 
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