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Waste not want not

5K views 45 replies 14 participants last post by  MTGOAT 
#1 · (Edited)
1900 build

**post 47 updated with numbers**

This is probably a typical “build thread” so I will keep it short.

As you can see I am not a newb here and feel I try to give good advice when and where I can and that is what I am looking for here.

I have a TVS1900 sitting on my work bench waiting for the funds to grow from a tree to get the supporting parts for the install. I am looking to see what your opinions are on my parts list, particularly, am I wasting money in any areas that I could use elsewhere. I have done lots of research and think I can be in the top 10 or 12 of the builds on here if I play my cards right. http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7481956&postcount=2


Supporting mods already in place:

•DSS 1pc CF driveshaft
•Anti hope axels with two piece inner stubs
•Eaton w/3:73 rear end
•Monster Level 2 clutch ( will worry about beefing this up later)
•Kooks stepped headers with 2.5” catback
•LC1 wideband
•228/234 .613/.613 112 lsa cam (not ideal and probably the weak link)
•1218 PAC springs and hardened rods with stock heads. (probably do home port/polish job)


Looking to do:

-TVS1900 with included injectors (not sure of the size)
-3” front pulley
-OD rear cogs (looking to avoid slip, really don’t want the whine though…)
-Currently have 25% UDP, will put stock crank back in
-Power chamber CAI
-Larger heat exchanger and reservoir
-Electric water pump to reduce drag
-Upgrade timing chain (70K on original)
-Appropriate gauges
- full return fuel system

So, my thoughts are if I do the following that I could possibly be looking at 590 – 620 range...

Does anyone see where I might be wasting my time or money on, or am I on the right track?

Thanks :burnout:
 

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#37 ·
He has been working on the SD tune a little this weekend. Should have her finished up early this week.

I am guessing now that we are going the SD route that I should just sell my LS3 MAF then, right? There isn't any point in leaving it in since I already have my IAT sensor relocated to the blower...
 
#38 · (Edited)
Numbers

**old numbers, check post 47 for updated power**


She ended up putting down just over 550 to the tires and 488tq at 1200ish RPM

have to be honest, even with my 3.73s and the cam specs, I am a little bummed she didn't hit the 575+ mark. again, numbers are numbers so I will certainly not get hung up on it.

pretty pumped to see how she drives!


Cam: 228/234 .613/.613 112LSA
102mm TB and PowerChamber
3.73 rear
OD rear cogs
stock crank
3.2 front pulley

2BAR SD tune
RWHP: 552
RWTQ: 488
boost:12.5 psi
A/F: 12.1
air temp: 92*
Barometric pressure: 29.9
Relative Humidity: 62%
Air Density: 93&
Final correction: 1.06

EDIT: figured out my vacuum leaks so will be going back to the dyno to make sure my AFR is still solid and maybe pick up a few more too...
 

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#39 · (Edited)
Not out of the woods yet

Still don't have the car back. Shop went to take it for a test drive after the alignment and the car wouldn't run correctly. this comes after it spent the previous day on the dyno and went for an 8 mile street tune with no issues.

car seems to be acting like it is running lean and gets a lot of popping during start up. Fuel pressure is rock solid.Fuel delivery was increased with no luck. tune was looked at, no luck.

Shop had to take a step back and get caught up on work that was back filling so I have not had any recent updates since last Wednesday

:banghead:
 
#40 ·
Update:

Picking car up tonight. Still has start up and idle issues and can't be determined why. Our best guess is a vacuum leak somewhere but I don't want to pay anymore money for them to keep chasing their tails.

Shop has been very honest these past few weeks but it is time to bring her back and maybe I can figure something out?
 
#41 ·
Think I got the vacuum leak figured out.

Think it was two things. One, the open vent on the PS valve cover must have been making too much unregistered air. Fed that to the tb coupler. Two, the check valve for the boost line was reversed. Idles like a champ now!
 
#42 · (Edited)
Modified to fit the passenger side valve cover to the TB coupler since the PowerChamber doesn't have a nipple like the stock one did. Also, I am running an SD tune AND an LS3 MAF. if tuner would have left out the MAF then this might not have been a big deal.

Updated a post 39 with dyno



And Pic of the check valve in case anyone was wondering. Figured this one out when I noticed my boost gauge wasnt right and my vent controls wouldn't work in the cab.

 

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#43 ·
Scheduled to head back for a retune/clean up on the 28th. Hopefully I will be able to get her running right and gain a bit more power after correcting the massive vacuum leak that I introduced to the system with the vented crank case that I had...

:dunno:
 
#44 ·
Good!!! Then u can take me for that ride!!!
 
#46 · (Edited)
Finally got her running right. Made two pulls after getting the SD tune to finally read. It never wanted to fault into SD and kept looking for MAF, even with it unplugged. had to force it into a fault for MAF.

Cutouts closed: 633/581
Dyno pull https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-TPa-rem_I


Cutouts open: 639/577
dyno pull https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg2_m5LCCTs]




This is with 14* of timing. Said he could easily pull another 15 out of the intake temps alone and could add 4-6* of additional timing with no problems. I told him I would like to keep my stock bottom for a little bit.

I have well over 500lbft tq at 1000 rpms... this thing is nuts!
 

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