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Old 03-13-2007, 04:56 PM   #1
batboy
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help: sway bar endlinks and bushings

I started my sway bar bushing and endlink project tonight. I found instructions in the knowledge base for the front sway bar "D" bushings, but having trouble finding info about the rear and endlinks. If you could help me out a bit, I'd sure be grateful.

I have the 2 rear links off the car now. I'm assuming I need to first remove the metal insert from the stock rubber endlink bushings before I can remove the rubber part, correct? Any easy trick or do you just beat it out?

The new poly endlink bushings look like they will be tough to install into the eyelets. Do I heat 'em up in hot water to make 'em more flexible before installing 'em? Again, I'm begging for suggestions to make my life easier.

The rear "D" bushing looks like a pain to remove. Almost appears you have to remove the hold down bolt blindly. Does anyone remember what size wrench is required? Any removal tips? Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:07 PM   #2
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the easier way to remove the rear D clamps are to drop the diff down by taking out the four TTY bolts that hold the diff support bracket. the yoke will sag down and you can get at them easy. replace the four TTY bolts. as for the old bushes. heat don't beat
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:16 PM   #3
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Ok, my differential insert is on order. So, guess I'll just wait to do the rear sway bar D bushings at the same time I do the insert. That helps.

When you say heat, do you mean a torch? Get it hot and push the metal tubes out or do you mean burn them out?
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:28 PM   #4
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good idea about waiting for the insert. i've found so far that just heating the bushes a bit helps soften and get them out. i got the inner rear control arm bushes out fairly easy with a little heat. try a heat gun first before you resort to a torch
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:39 PM   #5
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Well, I didn't have a heat gun, so I used my wife's hair drier (shhhh). It worked. Got the old endlink bushings out. Still have no idea how to get the new ones in though.

One of the differential insert install threads said to soak the new poly part in very hot water with a little soap added. Guess I'll try that if nobody else has a better idea.
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Old 03-13-2007, 07:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batboy...View Post
The rear "D" bushing looks like a pain to remove. Almost appears you have to remove the hold down bolt blindly. Does anyone remember what size wrench is required? Any removal tips? Thanks in advance.

Without dropping the cradle, it's a real PITA. If I recall correctly, it's a 1/2" wrench. Get a really nice ratcheting wrench that's thin (the walls around the ratcheting part cannon be too thick). I have some of the cheapo ratcheting wrenches and they wouldn't fit up there so I had to use a standard 1/2" combo wrench, lift it up, place it on the nut, twist half a turn, and do it all over again. Took a couple hours just to replace the D bushes.

Last edited by snowairg; 03-14-2007 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:42 AM   #7
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When I put my hand up there and felt the bolt, it seemed definitely bigger than 1/4". Besides, everything on these cars is metric.

I finally got one of the new poly bushings in the endlink rod before bedtime last night. The hot water didn't work much. What a pain in the hinny. Had to use a couple fender washers and a bolt to pull the bushing into the eyelet. Then I helped it along by squeezing it with pliers where it bulged up. Those babies are really tough to install.

Last edited by batboy; 03-14-2007 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:55 AM   #8
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I've heard of the end link bushings putting up a fight getting them in. I did SLP bushings and those went in fine. Trick to geting the metal insert outta the OE bushing was take a socket of the same size and hammer it through. Put the endlink in a vise or something similar.

The D bushings up top are alittle more work just because you have to gain access to them. Drop the rear is the only way.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batboy...View Post
When I put my hand up there and felt the bolt, it seemed definitely bigger than 1/4".

Sorry, I meant 1/2". I know most of the car is metric, but the 1/2" fit better than my 13mm, so that's what I used IIRC.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowairg...View Post
Sorry, I meant 1/2". I know most of the car is metric, but the 1/2" fit better than my 13mm, so that's what I used IIRC.

Yeah, I am pretty sure that it is a 13 mm for the D bush. Make sure that you elongate the bolt hole in the metal clamp. As far as the OE endlink bushings, I just took a screw driver and knocked out the metal part and then took a utility knife and sliced one of the raised ends so that it would fold down when I pulled it out from the other end with a needle nose pliers. The new ones go in easy. They basically fall out when they are not installed. Maybe I am missunderstanding your problem? Since they are in two pieces, you are installing the small diameter end inward correct?

Edit: I forgot to ask, what brand are you using? I only have experience with Pedders.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:36 AM   #11
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Any more tips for the endlink bushing install. I already did the D bushings but i did not start the endlinks yet...
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:33 AM   #12
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I have Energy Suspension bushings, they are one piece (more work, but much cheaper). If the Pedders bushings are 2 piece bushings, then I can understand why they are easy and why there is so little posted about installing the endlinks.

Irakz, I finally got them installed by using hot water, grease up (provided in the kit) the link rod eyelet, sandwiching the bushing and rod eyelet between a couple of large washers and tightening up a bolt/nut. One side will start going in, so I carefully squeezed the part of the bushing that bulges up with a pair of pliers. Eventually after some cussing and prodding, it will give up and just slip into place.

Last edited by batboy; 03-14-2007 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:49 AM   #13
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Sorry, I can see why had a tough time. I am glad that you got it.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstcapgoat...View Post
Make sure that you elongate the bolt hole in the metal clamp.

Is this done because the new poly bushings don't compress as easily? I'm assuming this makes it easier to reinstall the clamp, right?

Since I'm at a standstill on the rear sway bar until the differential insert gets shipped, I started taking the endlinks apart on the front sway bar tonight. Think this might be a tad easier than the rear... cross fingers and knock on wood.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batboy...View Post
Is this done because the new poly bushings don't compress as easily? I'm assuming this makes it easier to reinstall the clamp, right?

Yes, the only ones I had to elongate are for the rear sway. The front I had no problems with. I'll attach a picture of the clamps. The pictures are just from my cell phone so they suck, but you should get the idea. Plus, I butchered the hell out of the left one, but it still works!

clamps.jpg
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:31 PM   #16
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After I had the front sway bar completely disassembled, I found out they had shipped me the wrong "D" bushings (got two pairs of rear "D" bushings instead). Sheesh!
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:55 AM   #17
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We have done a ton of rear D bushings and endlinks and they are a piece of cake compared to the control arm bushings. The Pedders rear end ling bush kit is extremely easy to put in. The are a 2 piec unit, like most of the Pedders contol arm bushings with a steel sleeve. They are a piece of cake.

Now remember, with any poly bushing install, the housing you are putting the bushing into is critical to have perfectly clean and without burrs. I also recommend final tightening to be when the wheels are on the ground. Also with our Pedders bushings, do not lube any Pedders bushing, unless the bushing comes with lube (There are a couple)

The D bushings are pretty easy on the rear. It does require, as mentioned, lowering the diff. With it lowered, you have pretty easy access to the bushings. Granted, when we are doing it, we are on a lift. Doing it in the garage, may be more challenging, however.

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Old 03-17-2007, 09:08 AM   #18
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No heat required for the endlink bushes, I just changed mine out a few weeks ago with pedders.

I carefully put the endlink in a vise and used a socket to tap out the inner steel sleeve. Then took a screwdriver to the bushing and pried it right out. By the third one I could remove one in under a minute.

As a hint, mark the endlink side (left or right) and direction (which end up, which end down).
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:35 AM   #19
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Thanks all. The endlinks are done now.

Waiting for the TTY bolts and diff insert to be delivered before dropping the differential. I had previously read the final rear endlink torquing should be done with the wheels on the ground. Appreciate the reminder.

Also waiting for the correct front sway bar "D" bushings (got sent 2 pairs of rear bushings by accident).

Good thing my GTO is not a daily driver.
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Old 03-17-2007, 02:04 PM   #20
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i just got my rear sway bar in. i didn't have any problem with or had to modify the bracket. i just squeezed it down, started the bolt and tightened. getting the old bushing's bolts out was the challenge. the lowers bolts on both end links wouldn't come out. the sleeve had rusted itself to the bolt and it wouldn't budge. i finally used the socket for a cup and a C clamp to push the bolt thru. i never drive in the rain or had it out in the winter. they must not have used any lube at all on it. both end links were very stiff and squeaky. i just have to get my Harrop cover and bolt the diff in and i'm done with the whole back end
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:06 PM   #21
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Things have a habit of snowballing, I went ahead and ordered new shocks too since I have things tore apart (Pedders 9095 GSR shocks). Besides the diff insert, I also have rear subframe bushings and front radius arm bushings on the way (plus the associated TTY bolts).
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