Bringing this back from the dead. Not to be picking on anyone either, but there is a board membed on here that has had a precision converter take a dump on him and wipe out is trans. I have a TCI converter in my car and could not be happier with it. I have a 400+ hp heads/cam/intake GTO not including the 2 stage spray kit on it and 0 problems with my conveter. Its been in the car for about a year.
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LQ4 powered 1972 Nova SS with a Snow Blower
2004 Pulse Red GTO...(Totaled)
So Vigalante, Yank or ProTorque? Set up would be Headers, Cam, tranny cooler, and a stall from 2400 to 2800....
reported rwhp of the set up should be around 430hp.
Looking for quality parts, good reliable solid build, and daily drivability...
Help please?
Yank.
Tight, driveable, tons of options and astounding performance. I've had both Yank and Vig 3600's in my daily driver, and I felt the Yank was more responsive and driveable in a street situation.
I know you don't want to over stall but 2400 isn't even worth it. The stock stall is around 2200 I believe. With a cam that'll make 430, which I'd imagine would be decently sized, I'd say at least a 3000. Once you get used to a stall that small, it'll feel like stock.
P.S. Yank's customer service is incredible.
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zer0psi SOLD: 2006 GTO A4 Quicksilver Metallic SAP
337/359 corrected bone stock w/ stock SAP mufflers
382.5/387 bolt-ons
I know you don't want to over stall but 2400 isn't even worth it. The stock stall is around 2200 I believe. With a cam that'll make 430, which I'd imagine would be decently sized, I'd say at least a 3000. Once you get used to a stall that small, it'll feel like stock.
The guideline I've heard from several sources is to choose a stall ~ 800 RPM below your torque peak - for best performance on the strip. In a street car with a lot of bottom end & small tires, a high flash & huge torque multiplication may not be the best choice.
IIRC, the stock stall is 1600-1800 rpm, not 2200; the Vig "2400" is 2400-2600. I agree it's probably not what you need for a cammed NA LSx motor with a 4500 RPM torque peak - but it was just the ticket for my Maggied LS2 (> 400 RWTQ at 1800 RPM). After consulting with Chuck at FLT, the triple clutch Vig 2400 was our choice to go with a new Level 5 4L65E. I guarantee that it doesn't feel like stock, especially when it flashes in third on the freeway.
The guideline I've heard from several sources is to choose a stall ~ 800 RPM below your torque peak - for best performance on the strip. In a street car with a lot of bottom end & small tires, a high flash & huge torque multiplication may not be the best choice.
IIRC, the stock stall is 1600-1800 rpm, not 2200; the Vig "2400" is 2400-2600. I agree it's probably not what you need for a cammed NA LSx motor with a 4500 RPM torque peak - but it was just the ticket for my Maggied LS2 (> 400 RWTQ at 1800 RPM). After consulting with Chuck at FLT, the triple clutch Vig 2400 was our choice to go with a new Level 5 4L65E. I guarantee that it doesn't feel like stock, especially when it flashes in third on the freeway.
regards, billb....
Bill how much have you spent on tranny a convertor??
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Magnuson 112HH supercharger at 7.5 psi (Virtual 9.0 liter) 600hp 1 of 2 torrid/red int /A4/05 555r 275/40/R17's Nitto Extreme Drags 1.7 60 ft Car runs high 11's No other mods. I got the first 112HH Magnuson blower ported for a GTO. Now it appears it was also one of the last....
Bill how much have you spent on tranny a convertor??
The one time to get it right cost about $4500 (trans - $2900; TC - 1000; R&R - $600). Unfortunately, before that, I had to
walk away from a builder who cost me about $4200 to get it wrong - three times. A warranty isn't worth much if you have
to perform or pay for repeated R&R and have extensive downtime. It cost more to get my trans sorted than for my Maggie &
tune. It's all good now, though.
The one time to get it right cost about $4500 (trans - $2900; TC - 1000; R&R - $600). Unfortunately, before that, I had to
walk away from a builder who cost me about $4200 to get it wrong - three times. A warranty isn't worth much if you have
to perform or pay for repeated R&R and have extensive downtime. It cost more to get my trans sorted than for my Maggie &
tune. It's all good now, though.
regards, billb....
ouch...
I would be interested in details at some juncture.
So Bringing this back from the Dead Has Anyone dealt with a Performabilt TC seena few say yes but I am considdering a 3200 from them but don't See many out ther that have them . Friend in local Club just bought a Stage 3 Tranny for his goat kinda waiting to see how he likes it as well...
Protorque Converter Here , 1st mod I ever did@ 500 miles on the OD, have tried some of the brands mentioned above, but I get the best Et and MPH with the Protorque, So yea I'm happy 4 1/2 years later and still running the stock trans knock on wood
Location: Jax FL and wherever they decide to send me...
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Had a YANK 3800 then blew my engine and when I did the rebuild I wanted something smaller and tighter so I went with a Performabuilt 3600, but then had a good deal on a Transmission Physician transmission and it came with a Vig 3600 so I ditched the Performabuilt (never used) and took the Vig. Great verter for the street nice and tight but was too small for my motor so I put that up for sale. So I called up Yank and they custom built my 4000 verter for my motor and all I can say is WOW.
Seat of the pants tells me its a big improvement but the track will be the tell all. I dont think I will be disappointed.
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"Christina" aka "Chistine" 2006 SRM (1 of 369/A4 & 1 of 1/A4 w/418ci)
" No name" 2009 Z06 3LZ Blade Siver Metallic Corvette
Performance/Misc:
TSP LS3 418, Trickflow Heads, Ed Curtis Cam, PAC 1521 springs, Morel lifters, JB Catch Can, Ed Curtis P/P FAST 90, FAST FRs, HARDCORE CAI, KOOKS Stepped LT, FTI stall, TP Tranny, Borla CB, LPE Oil Pump, 45# Inj., SLP Pulley, LPE Fuel Pump, Drag Bags, King Springs, PLX WB, Tony Gonyon Tune
Other Holden/HSV
2005 GTO Owner
knock on wood
