How to take minor scratches out of Billet wheels

I had my Intro Sport GT's mounted on the OEM tires and these wheels have to be mounted face down. In doing so, it left some minor scuff marks and scratches. Not bad, but these are new wheels and I want them to look like new wheels.
I called Intro and they told me that on solid aluminum wheels to use a billet wheel cleaner like Mother's or Eagle One Billet wheel cleaner and then rinse off with Glass Plus because it doesn't have ammonia in it.
They advised not to take it to a car wash because of the chemicals and not to use some strong wheel cleaners because it will spot the wheels.
Just thought I'd pass this info on to others with polished aluminum wheels. I got pics if somebody would like to host them for me!

when i had my rims on my truck i always hand washed it was to risky sending 275/40/20's thru a little rail.

Quote: Originally Posted by 4th GTO... I had my Intro Sport GT's mounted on the OEM tires and these wheels have to be mounted face down. In doing so, it left some minor scuff marks and scratches. Not bad, but these are new wheels and I want them to look like new wheels. I called Intro and they told me that on solid aluminum wheels to use a billet wheel cleaner like Mother's or Eagle One Billet wheel cleaner and then rinse off with Glass Plus because it doesn't have ammonia in it. They advised not to take it to a car wash because of the chemicals and not to use some strong wheel cleaners because it will spot the wheels. Just thought I'd pass this info on to others with polished aluminum wheels. I got pics if somebody would like to host them for me!

Very good advice. The clearcoat on the factory Al wheels on my Jimmy was starting to peel and look terrible. I took a deep breath and removed the clear coat with Zip-Strip paint remover, knowing that I would then have a tiger by the tail, now being bare metal. It looks so much better after polishing with wadding or Mother's or Eagle 1. If the $&%^*$(# factory had used actual CLEAR coat it would not have looked so bad when it started to peel, but they used a smoky color for the overcoat so that it looked very bad when it started to come off!!
In theory if they were prepped perfectly, they could be clearcoated again, but I felt it was prohibitively expensive and if not a PERFECT job, I'd soon be right back to the peeling again.
BUT THE WESTLEY'S DAYS ARE OVER. Anything caustic (basic) such as ammonia or Heaven forbid, Westley's, will spot the wheel and require re-polishing.
That said, if you are REAL careful you can still clean white letters or black tires with a caustic agent, but (1) wet everything first (2) don't do it in the sun, (3) spray the cleaner only where necessary, don't get overspray on the wheel; (4) Rinse as soon as possible.
I think bare AL looks great but it is a lot more work to maintain than chrome or clearcoated wheels. Salt is another bad thing up North....causes corrosion, dullness, and pitting. Gotta keep off that salt.

Quote: Originally Posted by 4th GTO... I had my Intro Sport GT's mounted on the OEM tires and these wheels have to be mounted face down. In doing so, it left some minor scuff marks and scratches. Not bad, but these are new wheels and I want them to look like new wheels. I called Intro and they told me that on solid aluminum wheels to use a billet wheel cleaner like Mother's or Eagle One Billet wheel cleaner and then rinse off with Glass Plus because it doesn't have ammonia in it. They advised not to take it to a car wash because of the chemicals and not to use some strong wheel cleaners because it will spot the wheels. Just thought I'd pass this info on to others with polished aluminum wheels. I got pics if somebody would like to host them for me!

I used to use Happich Simichrome polish #390050 for scratches, scuffs, and general polishing on my old American 200S Candlepins. Made by GHE, Germany.