10.1 @141--1.779 60ft not trying to hook er up too good until I get some better rear end parts im coming for you 9 second GTO'S with my street car.
video right after yellow gto an tang..enjoy I did..
Good job!
Bring it to the East Coast Shootout.....you should be able to
find a few quick street cars there.
__________________
10.988 sec 123.91 mph 1.537 60' (motor) 02/10/08
9.231 sec 148.07 mph 1.388 60' (bottle) 11/28/09
Best 60' 1.388 11/28/09
Best 1/8th 5.932 sec 118.89 mph 11/05/09 & 11/28/09
A big thanks to Mike,Ron,Buddy and Charlie
@ Vengeance Racing 678-513-7105
Campbell Lubricants/Amsoil 770-682-7095
Brian,Bob and Jason @ Kauffman Tire 770-614-5650
Dan @ Traffic Jams 770-271-3772
Thomas @ Hendrix Engineering 980-521-0722
congrats. love the color and look of your car gulfcoast.
__________________
04 gto 243 gmpp cnc ported heads , hot cam 219/228 .525 112, kooks 1 7/8 l/t,lm-1wb, sending unit for fuel press. logging, drag bags for the track na 12.2@112mph 1.77 60ft. new add ons 42lbs lucas injectors, lpe walboro, daves wet plate kit, purge,heater, fpss, wot sw., fjo mini controller,nano, new p/b on hoosier 275/40/17 10.998@126.49mph,1.588 on 103vp, 18* timing 11.2 afr. n150w bassani catbk. catless with ls7clutch
I got a PB today as well. Only mods are tune and CAI. Car went 12.82 @ 108.6 with a 1.88 60ft on street tires Its an A4 by the way. . I dont have a pic of the slip but heres the video. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/R...17788.htm?ref=
Based on your 60' times the last 2 times out (1.533/1.490) with oem gears and oem 17x8s w/MT 275x40x17, one has to question if the expense of a 15" drag set-up is actually worth the expense, especially if one has monster TQ numbers like yourself (602).....of course overall good/outstanding environment is key also.
Now if one has 3.91 gears, the need for a 28" tire on 15's might be a necessary evil to avoid hitting the rev limiter crossing the trap in 3 (auto) without decreasing RPM shifts, which I found necessary in my previous set-up.....17x4 w/M&H Front Runners and 17x8 w/MT 26x11.50x17
Based on your 60' times the last 2 times out (1.533/1.490) with oem gears and oem 17x8s w/MT 275x40x17, one has to question if the expense of a 15" drag set-up is actually worth the expense, especially if one has monster TQ numbers like yourself (602).....of course overall good/outstanding environment is key also.
Now if one has 3.91 gears, the need for a 28" tire on 15's might be a necessary evil to avoid hitting the rev limiter crossing the trap in 3 (auto) without decreasing RPM shifts, which I found necessary in my previous set-up.....17x4 w/M&H Front Runners and 17x8 w/MT 26x11.50x17
Once again..... Congratulations on your New PB
The Front runners were stock gto spares with their spare tires lol. Yeah should have a real tire on it I know
The only reason I am considering 15" is to be more consistant. The 1.49 and 1.533 our my two best 60s most fluctate between upper 1.5x and low 1.7x It would be a lot easier to dial in my car if I could cut similar 60s pass after pass. As far as tq Nitrous will do that for you
I got a PB today as well. Only mods are tune and CAI. Car went 12.82 @ 108.6 with a 1.88 60ft on street tires Its an A4 by the way. . I dont have a pic of the slip but heres the video. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/R...17788.htm?ref=
Congratulations on your New PB
Pic of TS is helpful, but in most cases not necessary.
Will be happy to add you if you provide complete TS info and info outlined on Page #1. For example:
Date...Location...RT(.???)...60(1.88?)..1/8(?.???@ ??.??)...1/4(12.82?@108.6?)
YR(????)..Trans(A4)..TC(?)..Gears(?)..Rims Front(??)/Rear(??)..Tires(Non Drag)
RWHP(???)/RWTQ(???) if known
Just have to say....General Bolt-Ons (CAI)......Headers..non stock cam/heads/crank/bottom end....any power adders (Nitrous/SC/Turbo)
Right now you'd be consider in the
oem/Bolt-On Class...346/364a11 (11=Bolt-On)
In general, such info will give others an idea how their set-up compares.
Shortly, I'll be weeding out those with limited info...I initially added those when doing research for these lists, but many have not provided the missing info since.
Currently working on creating a PB History page for list participants.
It's time consuming and tedious, and likely take weeks/months to complete. Your favorite Track Pic (1) and Video (1) can be added as well.
Home Page > All ET Lists and other info
__________________________________________________ _______________ Forum Name_> First Name_> State_> "GTO" Year_> Eng Size_> Eng Type (L??)_> Trans Type_> Trans Brake ?_> 2 Step ?_>
General Upgrades.....If yes, list info Nitrous_> SC_> Turbo_> Methanol_> Headers_> Heads_> H/C Pkg_> Crank_> Bottom End_> Intake_> TB_> CAI_> Fuel Sys_> Injectors_> TC Size_> Drive Shaft_> CVs_> Axle Stubs_> IRS_> Gears_> LSD_> Suspension_> Drag Bags_> Roll Bar/Pt Size_>
Drag Rims/Tire Front Rim.: brand/size/wt.......> Front Tire: brand/size/wt/type>
Drag Wheel Set-Up.....now to get them fitted
A friend who operates a custom body shop will undertake this task.
After test fitting 1 15x10 on a lift....the fitting will be tighter than say a 15x9,
or with a tire width of 10.5 and don't see it tucking in under the fender. Any other Tips/Suggestions?
Excerpts from Various Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bones Goat...
Part# for studs
Front Studs ARP 100-7717
Rear Studs ARP-100-7708
Quote:
Originally Posted by pharmdgto...
Front Studs: ARP-100-7717 Link 2 Sets
Rear Studs: ARP-100-7708 Link 2 Sets
Lugnuts....: MCG-63002.....Link 5 Sets
Any other Lugnut suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GulfcoastGoat...
I would recommend ARP-100-7713 instead of the 7708. 7708 is 1" longer than oem, and will not protrude thru the open-ended lugnuts. They will be recessed in the lugnut 1/2".
Dragstrips require the stud to protrude thru open ended lugnuts.
The 7713 is 3/4 longer than the 7708 and will stick out past the Weld lugnuts 1/4"
ARP-100-7713 Link
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben...
Got my Hendrix Wheels. Mounted the tires to check clearances w/MT 28x10.5 ET Drag. There massive.
The plan: cut the fender lip & BFH the inner fender wells. Than hopefully just a matter of bolting them on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy0009...
You might want to grind down the head on the bolts for a little extra clearance. Bolt on the caliper that is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedLT5...
You already cut the control arm?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben...
The Wrench notched the control arm when my Goat was at the shop. No Pic
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wrench...
Think you'll need more than a BFH to make them fit though. Check the clearance on the rear brake lines before you take it for a ride.
BFH worked well. I think everything fits. Will go for a ride sometime tomorrow to check further. I have a 1/2" or more everywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben...
My 15x10 Hendrix wheels w/MT 28x10.5S ET Drag is a huge tire. Took some mods to get everything in, but so far no rubbing with Dragbags at 22psi.
To make them fit I ground down the Brake Line Bolt about 1/8" and Bent the metal part of the Brake Line down about 1/2"
With the wheel bolted on, the clearance was very close on the Control Arm. Didn't touch, but very close. I ground off a little metal just to be safe. No Pic
The Inner Fender touched just forward of the shock in a 6" section, so I Hammered it in a little. Painted the area with some black spray paint to see if the tire rubbed while on a short test drive, (0 psi in dragbags). Here's the Pics.
I did the hammer/paint/test thing 2 more times before getting enough clearance.
The Upper Shock Dust Cover rubs pretty hard. I removed it. Cut it off with a cutting wheel in a die grinder
Maybe there's a Rubber Cover that can be adapted?
Gforce1320's Bracket/Hardware Kit may avoid cutting the Shock Dust Cover...Click
I drove the car after all the mods. Did some rapid side to side movements and no rubbing. You may need Dragbags to keep the Fenders off the tire, unless your springs are high enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by evltwins...
Have 26x11.50 Hoosier's on my 15x10 draglites and the only place they rub is on the shock body; after cutting off the dust shield. If the 11.50 only rubs there I should be fine with a 275/60 right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wrench...
We run Hoosier 28's (275 60 15) on our car. You need to cut the dust cover on the shock and clearance the control arm by about 1". We weld in bracing inside the arm them weld in a plate to make sure it's structuraly sound. We have gone 10.003@137 on this set up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by evltwins...
I now have 275x60x15 Hoosier mounted on 15x10 draglites. Have trimmed the LCA, cut the shock dust cover, rolled the fender, and put 28 psi in the drag bags and the DAMN THINGS STILL RUB ON THE FENDER LIP.
Any springs out there that will help? I know there are drag springs but I need something to stiffen things up. I dont know if those will do it. Any ideas?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbmgoat...
Try Pedders 5/16th raise drag spring. That outta do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTO Fan...
I have the same wheels/tires. Have King Drag Springs with a 10mm spring insulator spacer and drag bags. I didn't cut the shock dust cover. Ran one time with no drag bags or spacer and had a little rubbing inside the wheel well and on the shock. After adding the spacer and drag bags I have no rubbing at all. Stiffer springs and raising the rear will help. Otherwise, grind the shit out of the fender lip until it doesn't rub.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy0009...
Note: Already have max of 10 pics allowed within a post...to see Speedy0009's Pics....Click
Wheels are 1st Gen. GTO Bogarts, 15x9 w/26x10.0. Took some pics along the way and now doing this write up since I have no knowledge of anyone else posting such pictures publically. So on with the pics:
After beating the inner fender lip in with a 3lb sledge hammer, I tried to do it easier with an air hammer but the one I have wasn't strong enough, so out came the BFH.
Was told I'd would probably have to grind away at the a-arm for some clearance as well. So I took out my grinder and had at it, fitting the wheel so it would be just right and to the correct contour.
After all was done, I sprayed it all with 3M rubberized undercoating, then a thin layer of flat black to help it match the factory undercoating better. The a-arm got just flat black where there was bare metal.
Repeated this on the other side, and sprayed on extra undercoating to see how it would accumulate and look compared to the stock stuff. I may grind it down later and spray it thinner.
Went on a 20 minute drive to see if there was any rubbing. I tried launching on the street a couple times but only got tire spin. When I got back, I checked a for rub marks, and found only one on the passenger side shock and it's very minor for now.
Overall, not a hard thing to do at least up to this point. If the lips need to be hammered in more, I may run into a problem because behind the lip is some structural body and it won't budge with the hammer (if need be in the future, Mini-tubs LoL) Not the cleanest route to go but it's function over form here and in the end, once the wheel is back on you can't tell anything was even touched, so it works out great. Again, now it's time for some track testing!!!
Hope this helps anyone looking to do similar...Enjoy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by My First GTO...
Rocksand Racing Has Rear control arm Dome ready to install that WILL let You Run a 28 inch tall tire Like the ones we run....Pics.....Frank and Walt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perdieu...
Nice write up.. I put the 1 set of bogarts on 3 years ago and did everything you did.. One thing I would suggest, put some Blue Painters Tape on the wheel well lip on the first pass at the track. It will help find where you're rubbing. I had NO rubbing on the street but had two spots show up at the track under a hard launch and a good hook.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bones Goat...
Thanks. Function is more important than form! To have both costs alot more!
Some other things to consider
Quote:
Originally Posted by My First GTO...
Rocksand Racing.....Solid Rear Toe Links.....Chromolly shaft with Harden Heim Joints and Fully adjustable.
Anyone running Auto-Cross or Drag Racing would benefit from a set of these.....Lifetime Warranty
Quote:
Originally Posted by My First GTO...
You can adjust these 3/4 of an inch each way and Yes you get grade 12 hardware
Quote:
Originally Posted by My First GTO...
What it stops is the rear wheels wanting to move out when you launch the car. The OEM bars bend or flex under hard acceleration, so to stop this and keep your rear wheels from doing that we made these and they work great.
Rocksand Racing has Rear Control Arm Dome ready to install that wILL let you run a 28" tall tire like the ones we run....Pics
What is a Rear Control Arm Dome?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce1320...
Best thing is this kit only requires you to drill 2 holes down through the trunk and that's it. Pretty much a bolt on kit.
The brackets give you 3 different ride height adjustments and solidly mounted to the frame. All the parts are laser cut and CNC machined + tig welded.
There are 2 ways to buy the kit:
1. Complete kit with the QA1 double adjustable coilovers, springs (either 125 lb or 150 lb depending on your car weight), upper brackets, lower shock adapters and all hardware.
2. Bracket Kit/Hardware for those wanting to get your own Coil Overs.
Gforce1320: Info/Pics/Cost of his complete Coil Over Kit and Bracket/Hardware Kit.....Click
Kingsize: Coil Over Kit Info/Install/Pics/Test Results..... Click
Several have asked about running this Bracket Kit with a Regular Shock and keeping the OEM Coil Springs to gain tire clearance. It works great for this as well.
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel Chicken...
So for those of us who want tubs, this kit, plus weld in tubs, plus wide wheels....anything else required?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce1320...
You would need to either Notch your Control Arms or buy our Modified Control Arms. Other then that, you have it covered.
Last edited by Ret NYCPD : 01-06-2010 at 08:26 PM.
NEW pb for me, Went to Union Grove WI Great Lakes Dragway
Mods are:
Full Race weight of 3928lbs
GTO 2006 LS2 364cid stock bottom end N/A
ProHeads Edelbrock 215cc Heads/ 1 3/4 LongTube Headers no cats/CompCam 238/240 615.610. 111LSA /FAST 90 ported Intake/ 391.Gear/ Yank PT 4000 stall.
Stock IRS, running BMR DragBags had them set to 14.5 psi and running a M/T Et street on OEM rims, 265/40/18 set to 16.0 psi. and Nitto NT555R 245/40/18 up front.
__________________
Fastest N/A H/C/I GTO for the state of IL!!!
Full Race weight 3928lbs
GTO 2006 LS2 364cid stock bottom end N/A
ProHeads Edelbrock 215cc Heads /1 3/4 LongTube Headers no cats/CompCam 238/240 615.610. 111LSA /FAST 90 ported Intake with Vararam/ 391.Gear/ Yank PT 4000 stall.
60. 1.591
1/8. 7.184
MPH. 96.16
1000. 9.402
1/4. 11.276
MPH. 120.33
DYNO Graph http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/529/dynoy.jpg
GTO my 11.3 Run. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5J2YSQQQQ6M
Last edited by CorvetteZR1ZO6 : 11-14-2009 at 12:18 PM.
Got a new best 60' and ET today MPH sucked (got some bad Race Gas and ti was stumbling in 3rd Gear
Nice light.
__________________
Quickest IRS Pontiac in the US
Suspension and drivetrain behind tranny by
Hendrix Engineering (980)521-0722
Built by Heintz Racing (formerly known as Williams Performance) Crew chief Bob Wilkinson and tuned by
Nick Williams (704)658-2302