I'm trying to figure out the difference in cost between a blower running approximately $6.5K-$7K and heads (likely L92s with some work), cam, ported FAST, stall, and supporting mods. Any estimates as to how much the difference would be?
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2006 GTO
Torrid Red/Red A4
Kooks Signature Series LT headers (coated w/ Jet Hot 2000° Flat Black), StolenFox H-Pipe, Magnaflow exhaust, 19" Magnesium ROH Drift-Rs w/ 245 fronts & 285 rears (Toyo Proxes T1R), Pedders 5/16" drag springs, JHP gauges, VX SS tails, spoiler delete, SAP-style grilles by SpencerW, 5% tint all around
372/377
Tuned by Tad @ Haddad Motorsports
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Originally Posted by Barry...
Quickly go lease a Ferrari GTO for the day. Say, "Oh, when you said GTO, I thought you meant this one".
If you are just doing a basic supercharger kit expect total cost to be around the 10k mark. For a N/A setup you might come in a little cheaper. The problem with building your engine for a N/A setup is you have to change alot of stuff if you ever decide to go FI down the road. You get your power from upping your CR with a N/A setup and you can't have that with FI. So decide what you are going to do before you start buying stuff!!!
If you go twin turbos/Single turbo/Procharger or Maggie w/Headers, you will be making more then pretty much any H/C/I Combo.
Sky is the limit with turbos.
Maggie w/Headers will put you between 460-500rwhp ISH
Procharger will give you more ISH
Twins will put you around 500-550rwhp+ (APS;GenTTr base..) ISH
Single will put you at whatever you want to be...
FI is always going to make more power on the same cubes and motor. Generally speaking.
H/C/I you are looking anywhere between 430rwhp-450rwhp*since you mentioned L92s. Stall may lower that.
Go FI IMO.
Thanks Fatbum. I've narrowed it down to the Maggie or the N/A combo I mentioned. I'm looking more at the difference in cost right now.
If you are just doing a basic supercharger kit expect total cost to be around the 10k mark. For a N/A setup you might come in a little cheaper. The problem with building your engine for a N/A setup is you have to change alot of stuff if you ever decide to go FI down the road. You get your power from upping your CR with a N/A setup and you can't have that with FI. So decide what you are going to do before you start buying stuff!!!
Thanks for the advice. I'm definitely sticking to one or the other! Regarding the blower, how would the price reach $10K if the unit itself is about $7K? What's accounting for the $3K aside from the install and tune?
Thanks for the advice. I'm definitely sticking to one or the other! Regarding the blower, how would the price reach $10K if the unit itself is about $7K? What's accounting for the $3K aside from the install and tune?
You have to realize that builds are different per car. If you only allocate say 8k for the build you might come up short if something gets added that is needed that you forgot about. If you can get the supercharger at say 7k, add the install and tune (as you need a good tune to make sure everything is safe and efficient). You are now at 8.5k. You should really think about changing out your stock springs, add another 750 or so for parts and labor. You are now over 9k. You should think about adding a boost a pump just to make sure you dont have to worry about fuel. As you can see, things add up that you really don't think about. Keep your checkbook open and be ready for the forgotten or unexpected. Do you need to have the dyno tune, springs, or BAP.....in simple terms no. However the more you spend initially the less you have to worry about after the install is complete. It would suck to have everything together and you break a spring because you didn't change it out. I hope you get at what I am trying to say. It is always going to be more then you expect so expect it to be more!!!!
I just went through this whole process myself and settled on FI (maggie). ...Here's my reasoning....
My goals were not horsepower, as I believe a dyno is tuning tool, but a street machine that was a beast, while also being capable on the track to run with the best of them. As far as the numbers go though, I want to see at least 515whp (yes, I'm doing blower cam too). The maggie is going to allow me to have instant torque whenever and wherever I want it through the powerband. It is also a looooot cheaper when you look at performance....twins can mean twice the maintenance and cost, and with any turbo application there is always lag time....not for me....but, the in regard to power it is almost endless depending on how crazy you want to go.
In the comparision of a maggie and a procharger....it depends more on what you want to do with the motor...if you plan to stoke it or go bigger cubes than stock, go procharger, a maggie will fall on it's face with bigger cubes. But on the street, a stock cubed GTO maggie car will beat a stock cubed procharged car.
anyway, let me know if I can be of any further help
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ohh and something else to keep in mind, that boostedGTO just brought up....you will more than likely end up spending more on your build than you initially set out too....there is a lot more involved in the build of A QUALITY car then you initially think.
lots of people dont agree with it, and yet some feel the need to continually grind that axe.
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2004 GTO : 655/598 HP/TRQ - Maggie 122 @10PSI, ETP 225 heads, SW LT's + magnaflow, 224/236/116 EDCam, Hendrix clutch, Corn juice fed and 2 bar Self-tuned.
"More like the tuner slammed his face on the keyboard after opening each table." - Tom Brohanks
"I was animalwarfisted" - ironmancan
"I orderd a gm rip shit from them..." - EVIL_GTO
"With most IAT sensors, you've got enough time to get out of the car and start looking around for your pistons before they respond." - MisterMike
Although there is more area unde the curve throughout the power band with a Maggie, you will have a smaller maximum e-peen HP number and will start having to tap into other areas to compete on the dyno
I hate that sticky. It is generally misleading and lacks tons of important info that would be beautiful to have when choosing your type of forced induction.
Well then rocket scientist, make your own far superior post, and I will petition the mods to make it a sticky.
You care enough to stay the sticky sucks, but not enough to write a better one. Nice cop out. That makes you a loud mouth chump who likes to shit all over everything but has nothing constructive to offer anyone except your valued "opinion".
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I just think it is funny when nutswingers like you get all hyped up about the golden stickies and whatever type of forced induction they think is best.
Im not a nutswinger, I just dont like people grinding axes. If you cant see the difference, perhaps the problem is yours?
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Good thing Maggies are the king of reliability right?
You guys kill me......I am sure the OP wanted all this info in his thread. I agree that the maggielimits your possibilities to expand. That is why I am selling my 122. I was at the ceiling of what I could get with it before the build even started. For people wanting extreme and stupid power, maggie is not what you need. For people that want something simple to bolt onto their car and make good power, maggie is one of many choices. As has been said 8 billion times already, every FI out there has its pro's and con's...unless you get the twin screw
I'm sorry never even had a Maggie but if I were or had a axe to grind. Here are reasons why.
1. maggie is heat sink.( no way to cool air after you heated it up)
2.Old system problematic at best according to these forums.
3.when comparing to other f.i types it loses hand down cost and power.
Like i said last one Id chose but its your car and your decision. If I makes you happy do whatever you want.
Why not just buy a shortblock stroker, heads, cam, intake, headers, the works, and sell your old motor and make more reliable hp/tq and run great track times. It would cost much less than any FI would. I have right around $6100 in my entire setup(short block, heads, cam, intake, Kooks headers, and tune) after I sold off my stock motor. Make good numbers and run great times for where I am at.
2006 GTO Owner
lol
