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Old 04-12-2009, 04:10 PM   #1
HackAbuse
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Coil Spring Boosters

I went to Advance Auto Parts to get some detailing supplies and see if I could find some spring pads. I couldn't find spring pads, but I found "Dynachrome Spring Boosters"

I plan on getting new springs within the next couple weeks, but I need new tires first, and I'm not putting on new tires when my camber is hundreds of degrees into the negatives due to the junk stock springs sagging.

I haven't pulled off the tires and jacked up the car to see if they would work, but I was wondering if anyone has used anything like this and if it would work for a few weeks.

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:13 PM   #2
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It looks like this and is approx an inch and a half tall
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:52 PM   #3
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Should work as suggested until they fall out
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:56 PM   #4
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With that design, the channel has to have specifically the correct
diameter for the springs (I'm not sure what that is).

Spacers are easy. Find some material and cut some rings: 4" OD and
1.5" ID. Put a stack of them on the control arm, under the rubber hat
thingy.

Could be aluminum, rubber, steel. I expect old vinyl floor tiles would
work. Thin rubber sheet could be cut with scissors.

The worst that can happen is that it all falls apart and your butt sags
again
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flink...View Post
With that design, the channel has to have specifically the correct
diameter for the springs (I'm not sure what that is).

Spacers are easy. Find some material and cut some rings: 4" OD and
1.5" ID. Put a stack of them on the control arm, under the rubber hat
thingy.

Could be aluminum, rubber, steel. I expect old vinyl floor tiles would
work. Thin rubber sheet could be cut with scissors.

The worst that can happen is that it all falls apart and your butt sags
again

This was the answer I was looking for, thank you.

Is there a specific height limitation I should stick to?

I plan on buying Lovell's 0 Drop springs and "shimming" them a little bit as well, so whatever method I use, I will use in the future, just at a slightly lesser degree.
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:13 PM   #6
flink
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackAbuse...View Post
This was the answer I was looking for, thank you.

I used 3/4" aluminum once. It worked well, but the stock was a bit expensive
and it was a bit of a pita to cut with a hand drill and the hole saws are
damn expensive. So slicing something out of a sturdy flexible material
of some sort sounds a better approach.

Quote:
Is there a specific height limitation I should stick to?

If you go too high then there will no longer be any nub left for the
spring to center onto and it would conceivably work its way across
the spacer and drop out. But 3/4" was OK in this regard.

And then you can add more spacer on top of the spring - maybe 1/2"
before the same risk occurs.

That's 1-1/4" total. There's a 1.5:1 motion ratio in there, so adding 1.25"
of spacer will raise the car 1.875".

Of course the material which you use for the spacer will compress a
bit, which mucks up the math. Unless you use aluminum.

Quote:
I plan on buying Lovell's 0 Drop springs and "shimming" them a little bit as well, so whatever method I use, I will use in the future, just at a slightly lesser degree.

OK. Of course, it's better to use proper-length springs than to use
too-short springs and then make up the room with non-springy
spacers.
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:32 PM   #7
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pedders make something like this, but its flat not groved and you can put one on top and below the spring... i think there called "spring insulators"
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:48 PM   #8
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I have a pair of these, brand new, if you want them.
I had two sets but wound up using one pair on another type of car.
Will raise the rear about 1/2" and does NOT compress with time
IM me if you want them sent right away and I'll let you know how much.
These are the best made, come with tie wraps and do NOT fall out

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Old 04-12-2009, 05:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flink...View Post
I used 3/4" aluminum once. It worked well, but the stock was a bit expensive
and it was a bit of a pita to cut with a hand drill and the hole saws are
damn expensive. So slicing something out of a sturdy flexible material
of some sort sounds a better approach.



If you go too high then there will no longer be any nub left for the
spring to center onto and it would conceivably work its way across
the spacer and drop out. But 3/4" was OK in this regard.

And then you can add more spacer on top of the spring - maybe 1/2"
before the same risk occurs.

That's 1-1/4" total. There's a 1.5:1 motion ratio in there, so adding 1.25"
of spacer will raise the car 1.875".

Of course the material which you use for the spacer will compress a
bit, which mucks up the math. Unless you use aluminum.



OK. Of course, it's better to use proper-length springs than to use
too-short springs and then make up the room with non-springy
spacers.

Thanks for the help. I'll probably use some kind of composite plastic like UMHW.

Do you think I could get my camber zero'd back out by raising the car by 1-1.5"?

My goal is to get a nice flat contact patch so I can minimize uneven tire wear and wheelspin during launch.

For reference, I'm trying to avoid this again:


You'll realize the severity of the problem when you put a straight edge across the bottom of the tire in the picture.
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Old 04-12-2009, 06:31 PM   #10
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honestly that tire doesn't look that bad. anytime you wear a tire down THAT MUCH, you are going to see a pattern that is less than perfect

I would not hesitate buying new tires before worrying about springs. they way I have the camber set in the front of my car, I could only hope, that if I let my tires get that bad (which I never would), that they would wear that evenly.

I know yours are the rears, but I'm just saying that I wouldn't sweat your camber
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:34 PM   #11
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My rear was only about 1/2" too low (bad OEM springs) and my camber was -2.2,(bad)
After new (stock height) springs it's now -.6 or so, (good).
The spacers (rubbers) will do the trick until you replace your springs, all you probably need is a 1/2" or so raise.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackAbuse...View Post
Thanks for the help. I'll probably use some kind of composite plastic like UMHW.

Do you think I could get my camber zero'd back out by raising the car by 1-1.5"?

My goal is to get a nice flat contact patch so I can minimize uneven tire wear and wheelspin during launch.

For reference, I'm trying to avoid this again:


You'll realize the severity of the problem when you put a straight edge across the bottom of the tire in the picture.

Measure from the lower wheel lip, thru center, to the top of the wheel opening. Give us this info and I will tell you how low you are.

Pedders does have insolators in stock. You can put 2 per coil; one top and one on the bottom, under the rubber spring seats.

EP386/10 GTO Urethane Coil Spring Insulator. 10 to 13mm increase $19.80
EP386/6 GTO Urethane Coil Spring Insulator. 6 to 9mm increase $16.12

this will help raise the OE coils but will not fix the loss in spring rate that occurs.

mike
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Old 04-12-2009, 09:12 PM   #13
flink
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackAbuse...View Post
Do you think I could get my camber zero'd back out by raising the car by 1-1.5"?

If you're an inch over stock ride height then it'd be close.

Quote:
My goal is to get a nice flat contact patch so I can minimize uneven tire wear and wheelspin during launch.

Sounds like you need nice stiff and high springs back there. Did
you look at the pedders drag springs?

"GTO 35mm Raise 7843 Rear Coils (1.5" Raise)"
"50% Stiffer at Full Compression vs OE"

Just what the doctor ordered.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:50 AM   #14
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Just measured the rim to wheel well.

17s out back, 18s out front.

Back was 22.75" and Front was 24"
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Old 04-22-2009, 05:12 PM   #15
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I installed the coil boosters yesterday. It didnt look like much of a difference, but the back end is now at 23.375" after a day of settling.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:16 PM   #16
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so the 1.5" spacers only gave you about and inch of lift? i take it you installed them inside the coil as opposed to on top of the coil. cant that spacer also be installed on top? im sure it would give atleast another inch if you did.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackXgoat...View Post
so the 1.5" spacers only gave you about and inch of lift? i take it you installed them inside the coil as opposed to on top of the coil. cant that spacer also be installed on top? im sure it would give atleast another inch if you did.

It's not designed to do that.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackAbuse...View Post
It's not designed to do that.

just checked some of the spacers out at a tampa speed shop. mr gasket makes 2 variants of these spacers. one has the spring groove on both sides. the other has the groove one only one side. theyre both made of the same stiff rubber. they both have 1" inside thickness. the one with the spring groove on both sides can be cut so its only on one side and sit on top of the coil. you can modify yours that way if you wanted.

just in case anyone ever needs these spacers, the mr gasket part numbers are 1285 for the one sided and 1287 for the 2 sided. the 1285 should net about 1" of lift but probably more.

btw, the 1285 can be used either over or under the coil.

Last edited by blackXgoat; 04-24-2009 at 04:22 PM.
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