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Old 05-17-2009, 12:11 PM   #1
kdog_x
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Running wheel spacers?

I'm thinking about running some wheel spacers in the front to get a little more camber. Do you have to run wheel spacers all the way around, or can you just add them in the fronts?

Also, what would be the thickest spacer I can get away with safely? I'm not looking to push it, I want the wheels to stay on the car

Oh, and I have stock 17'ers
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:17 PM   #2
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would also like to know, got some rubbbin goin on and need cheap solution!
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:26 PM   #3
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I think 4mm is the most you can run with stock stud length. Anything longer and you've got to upgrade. Skulte Performance Designs makes custom spacers of any size. Many of us have used them with no issues.
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:44 PM   #4
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Skulte is phasing out wheel spacers as we speak.
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:53 PM   #5
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I would talk to flink :-D he has lot of exp with this kind of mods :-D
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:10 PM   #6
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I'm running 5mm spacers, on stock studs, and I've done at least 1000 highway miles and the wheels are still on. I'm not on stock wheels though. I think the minimum is 7 revolutions which I had exactly.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:41 PM   #7
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Pedders old-style coilovers required a 1/4" spacer, so lots of guys are running
that, apparently without issue.

Spacers do suck though. The nice thing about the OE GTO wheels (18's at least - I
haven't checked the 17's) is that they have large voids in the rear. So you can
use a proper bolt-on adapter of pretty much any thickness and the wheel will
still mount up, even though the studs and nuts sit further out than the mounting surface
of the adapter.

A lot depends on the thickness of the spacer/adapter. The GTO hub is 15mm deep and
there's a chamfer on both the wheel and the hub. So there's only about 12mm
of engagement between the hub and the wheel. That means that if the spacer
is more than about 8mm thick, you lose hub-centricity and you'll get maddening
wheel wobblies.

So a spacer of up to 8mm should be OK. After that you'll need a bolt-on adapter.
A bolt-on adapter of 19mm or more will permit the studs and nuts to sit below the
mounting surface, so you can mount aftermarket wheels (will need to shave
the studs though).

There's a grey area between 8mm thick and 19mm thick where mounting non-OE
wheels will be a problem. Speak with Skulte - he might be able to cook up
a 12mm wheel-centric and hub-centric spacer.

If you don't plan to run aftermarket wheels then you can use a 12mm bolt-on adapter,
but first double-check my homework: remove a wheel, tighten five lugnuts onto
the studs, then check that the wheel still mounts flush when it's rotated 1/10th
of a turn.

Each 5mm of spacer/adapter give you an additional 1 degree of -ve camber adjustment.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:42 PM   #8
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Also, ensure that any spacer/adapter is as wide as the hub mounting
surface. Don't do what I did and use a spacer which leaves the back
side of the wheel handing in free space around the edges. It will
increase the stresses in the wheel.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flink...View Post
Also, ensure that any spacer/adapter is as wide as the hub mounting
surface. Don't do what I did and use a spacer which leaves the back
side of the wheel handing in free space around the edges. It will
increase the stresses in the wheel.

Cool, I'm thinking I'll play it safe and just use a 5-6mm spacer. An extra degree is enough for me. Any recommendations where I can get one of the proper size to mate up to the hub?
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:04 PM   #10
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i use 5mm spacers all around but i upgraded my studs to ARPs. i didn't measure but the back studs seemed shorter than the front ones. i didn't like the amount of threads left after the spacers. the stock studs are also very soft material anyways. you need EVO studs for the front and Camaro/Vette studs for the rear and you need to cut them shorter too as they are insanely long.
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Old 05-17-2009, 05:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svede1212...View Post
i use 5mm spacers all around but i upgraded my studs to ARPs. i didn't measure but the back studs seemed shorter than the front ones. i didn't like the amount of threads left after the spacers. the stock studs are also very soft material anyways. you need EVO studs for the front and Camaro/Vette studs for the rear and you need to cut them shorter too as they are insanely long.

Hmm... you didnt like the amount of thread left with 5mm spacers? I didnt really want to change out the studs, what does it cost to replace them? Or what year EVO and Vette should I look for?
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:20 PM   #12
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Preface:
1. Sorry about the quality of the pics. Camera phone.
2. What you do with your car is your decision. I'm not saying you should do any of this or that this is the best way. This is merely what I chose to do with my car.

So, on with it:
Once a spacer is thicker than ~16mm or so, it is possible to put a hub-centric pilot on it and not require it to be a bolt-on adapter. Basically, once the outer face of the spacer is clear of the hub's nose, a new pilot can be added. I made a set that is hopefully going on i the next few weeks. They, of course, require the long ARP studs. This is before the studs were added.


While it would take some work, there is a chamfer on the nose of the hub that serves no concentricity function. It could be machined off so that a 11mm-ish spacer could be made in the same fashion. It could be taken down even further but there becomes a point where the wheel will stay hub-centric even with conventional spacers so there's no point in going past that.

This is a mod that I'm sure many people won't agree with but it's been going strong for 15k+ miles. I run Konis and they have their own thick wall tube. I cut a window out of the stock housing so that the first thing the tire sidewall encounters is the Koni insert.


This is the clearance with a Kumho Ecsta MX 275/40/17 mounted on a replica C5 17x8.5" rim at whatever suspension settings the car has at the moment (that is >1/2" of clearance before it hits the Koni insert). CONcentric strut mounts, BTW.


This is after the studs were installed and I could actually get some nuts on the studs. The nose of the spacer will allow ~6mm of additional slide-on spacers before the wheel loses hub-centricity. Then, there is another ~6mm of potential spacer room between the main spacer and the hub face. I plan on getting 4 spacers in each of 1mm, 2mm, and 3mm thick stainless sheet to fine-tune clearance for camber and tire-to-fender.
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flink...View Post
So a spacer of up to 8mm should be OK. After that you'll need a bolt-on adapter.
A bolt-on adapter of 19mm or more will permit the studs and nuts to sit below the
mounting surface, so you can mount aftermarket wheels (will need to shave
the studs though).

Yeah, I am using 8mm spacers on the front and mounting the wheels is sometimes an exercise in frustration since there is very little left for the center bore to rest on. Though with 8mm spacers I'd recommend longer studs just to be sure.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:53 PM   #14
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Anyone know of a good place to get the right size spacers?
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x...View Post
Hmm... you didnt like the amount of thread left with 5mm spacers? I didnt really want to change out the studs, what does it cost to replace them? Or what year EVO and Vette should I look for?

the backs aren't too costly (~$25 total) but the fronts are a lot more at about $35+ a wheel

ARP stud #s are
ARP-100-7708 rear
ARP-100-7717 front
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:06 PM   #16
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I am running 17x8.5 (+56) Z06 replica wheels. I use 12mm spacers that I got from Skulte performance. They are hub centric, No vibrations. I have done a track day with them, no problems.

I replaced my studs with ARP studs from summit racing.

I have some pics on this site somewhere, I can't find them right now, but they look just like the ones posted above.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:50 PM   #17
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When we say those arp studs are long... we ain't kiddin'!!!



Next time I have the wheels off I think I am going to grind them down a bit. Looks kind of goofy with big long studs on the front and stockish (albeit yellow) studs on the rear.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:52 PM   #18
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Alright gents... It has been asked several times in this thread, but I will ask again. Where is a good place to get some cheap wheel spacers? I am looking at ~ 1/4 inch all around. As you can see by the post above I have plenty of lug to handle the spacing. Just mounted my nitto invo's and realize that they run a little wide.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:11 PM   #19
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NM... Gonna call motorsport-tech tomorrow and order from them. I think I am going to try a 10mm spacer on all 4 corners.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:09 PM   #20
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pfadt racing makes spacers in varying sizes, the corvette community seem to have had good results with them.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:59 PM   #21
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Im running TSW Thruxtons 18x8 w/ 40mm offset. do i need any spacers? i havent put them on yet due to where i am. just wondering tho. thanks for any info!
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:26 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnieDago...View Post
NM... Gonna call motorsport-tech tomorrow and order from them. I think I am going to try a 10mm spacer on all 4 corners.

I've been running their adapters for couple months now including one track day and 5 autocrosses with no issues yet. Make sure you tell them to machine the hub bore to 69.6mm instead of the listed 69.5mm. Mine were way too tight and I had to sand them down to fit on the hub. Flink had same experience with his Skulte adapters.
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:26 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettekiller1...View Post
Im running TSW Thruxtons 18x8 w/ 40mm offset. do i need any spacers? i havent put them on yet due to where i am. just wondering tho. thanks for any info!

Nope.
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:32 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettekiller1...View Post
Im running TSW Thruxtons 18x8 w/ 40mm offset. do i need any spacers? i havent put them on yet due to where i am. just wondering tho. thanks for any info!

No. Your offset moves the wheel 8mm out from the strut as is. That is perfect!

Chances are more likely that you have 18x 8.5 tho
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nd3L...View Post
I've been running their adapters for couple months now including one track day and 5 autocrosses with no issues yet. Make sure you tell them to machine the hub bore to 69.6mm instead of the listed 69.5mm. Mine were way too tight and I had to sand them down to fit on the hub. Flink had same experience with his Skulte adapters.

Thanks for the heads up. The centre bore was the exact reason I was going to call as opposed to ordering online/
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