We all know how common it is for the rear seat stitching to rip on these cars, and just this past weekend I finally saw it happen to my dad’s 04 when I was home. We decided to swap cars for the week so I could do some work on it and get it cleaned up for the OTB meet this Sunday in Jersey. While driving back to my place, I decided that the first thing I was going to tackle was the rear seat stitching. Since so many people have had or currently do have this problem, I thought I’d do a complete write-up, along with some pictures, to show how you can all do this yourself and save some coin.
First off, go to AC Moore, or whatever art/craft supply store is near you, and get the following:
Step 1: Remove the bottom seats by pulling on the (2) release latches located under the outside seat bottoms and pushing up and out. Remove the seat bottom.
Step 2: Remove the (2) retaining bolts holding the seat backs in place with a 13MM socket. Then push the seatback up to release the catches and then remove.
Step 3: Unzip the top of the damaged seatback.
Step 4: Unhook the plastic hooks on the back of the seatback to release the seat cover. There are roughly 10 of them all the way around the frame.
Step 5: Remove the cover by pulling the flaps around and then pulling it loose from the Velcro holding it to the seat foam. Take the cover to where you can work on it comfortably. **I will warn you that if only one side of the seatback is ripped, there is a very good chance that the other side will rip when you pull the cover off. I say this because it happened to me, so I ended up having to re-sew both sides of the seatback.
Step 6: Take as much of the old thread out as you can.
Step 7: This is the LONGEST step. Start to sew up the leather from the backside, taking the needle up thru the one hole in the one piece, and down thru the leather in the adjacent piece. Take your time and have patience. Make sure you keep the thread tight as you sew up the seam and ensure you tie it off tight at the end.
Step 8: Reverse process to re-install the cover on the seat, then re-install the rear seats.
Finished:
Installed:
Step 9: Make sure you keep the rear seat seams conditioned with a good conditioner (I prefer Adam’s leather conditioner).
Hope this write-up helps a bunch of you guys out there fix this common issue yourselves. It really isn’t that hard to do, it just takes some time and patience. The hardest part of doing this is that the leather is going to be very hard to work with as the sun/heat has most likely stiffened it up. Once you get this fixed, keep conditioning the leather every few days until it softens, then maintain it each month.
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Current Rides:
2006 Torrid Red/Black M6 GTO - 1 of 380 (Magnaflow 12616, SF H-pipe, tune, etc)
2004 Yellow Jacket/Black A4 GTO - 1 of 657 (Spintech Super Pro's) Past Rides:
2008 G5
2004 Impulse Blue/Black M6 GTO
2000 Grand Am GT
1994 Bonneville SSEi
Last edited by SkiPopeye36 : 07-13-2009 at 05:56 PM.
Nice write up.I did the same thing to mine last fall,but didn`t use the heavy duty thread.Used normal thread and kept breaking on me.Anyway didn`t come out as neat and tight.I did the pass side now drivers side starting to come apart.I should pick up some of that thread and needles and do both sides. The needle I used was kind of thick but had hard time pushing through leather.
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04 torrid red A4 jba
headers, jba catted midpipes,magnaflow,k&n drop in,sccs gatorpod with oil press and volt guage,lovells diff insert
Nice job and writeup man. Good thing mine isn't tearing or splitting. But I have one question for you. What can i use to get the leather plyable and soft again?
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Pedders eXtreme track II with fast ratio steering gear, Harrop diff cover, GMM race shifter, MSD wires, E E Catch can, K&N panel filter, full red lighting swap and '05, '06 cluster upgrades by GTPrix, 2005,6 axles, SAP front, grills, skirts, 2005,6 rear bumper and hood, 2005,6 Corsa touring, Noltec Engine Mounts (new design)
Soon to come, Pro Charger, tune.
HSV 3 piece spoiler, Banshee hood, fresh paint almost ready.
Thats a great write up. I'll see about doing mine after OTB. I've also got to do something about the center section. Thats the worst part of it all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Devil...
Nice job and writeup man. Good thing mine isn't tearing or splitting. But I have one question for you. What can i use to get the leather plyable and soft again?
I use LEXOL on my seats. I tried about a half dozen other products out there and I've found this to work the best Kurt.
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04 Torrid Red/red A4, Kooks Signature series with Corsa Sport. Pedders springs front and rear, raduis rod bushings and Hoitchkis swsay bars all waiting to be installed. And maybe a CAI on it's way.
Nice write up man. Ill be doing this when i install my rear speakers. Like you and others have stated... when the leather dries out it shrinks.... mines doing it on the driver side... Conditioner is a huge must... owner before me didnt do it i can tell and not having thw windows tinted doesnt help..... thats another way to help out.
Thanks
Kyle
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2005 IBM A4 GTO
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Glad I could be of help to you guys. I started doing this and figured we could definitely use a good write-up to help everyone else tackle this themselves.
will conditioning the leather on a monthly basis reduce the chance of such tears?
My back seat is almost as bad as the one pictured. I've been using Lexol on them. At first my seats were hard to the touch so I applied it almost every other day for a few weeks. Now it's about twice a month and they have softened up and the tearing seam has not gotten any worse. Now the center back section of the seat thats another story. I'm gonna have to pull the cover off that and re-do that entirely. No saving that one.
I was a goalie in hockey through college and with the cost of equipment got quite good at repairing leather. I would reccomend black carpet thread as the thread of choice. It is extremely strong and I still have rips and tears I have sewn up 6 years ago holding strong in the worst conditions....Ask at any fabric store and they will have it...
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04 M6: TVS 1900 2.9 pulley 10psi, 1 7/8 Kooks w/catted mids, Jantzer 92mm TB Rotors: (F)Slotted and dimpled(R)Drilled and Slotted Aeroforce Gauges, Prosport Boost and Fuel Pressure gauge Monroe GT Sport Shocks & Struts, King Springs, Poly Bushings, GMM Race Shifter. LPE fuel pump kit,LC-1 Wideband
Last edited by Cruiser787904 : 07-15-2009 at 07:27 PM.
Nice. How common is the rip in 05 PBMs? I really hope not to see this happen.
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2005 Pontiac GTO PBM Auto 18"
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