I broke my evap connector off my Intake Manifold! HELP!!

nidjol · 09-20-2009, 03:41 PM

I need some help guys!!! I sent my Intake Manifold and my Trottle Body to get ported and when I reinstalled my parts I noticed that the small tube that goes inside the evap hose was broken off. Not sure what happened but I need help on how to fix it. In my pic you can see the loose hose resting next to my power steering reservoir and the broken "nub" that use to be a small tube that went inside the evap hose. Anyone have any suggestions?

TrekGTO · 09-20-2009, 03:49 PM

That sux, they are too fragile. I would drill tap and put in new fitting. Could use hose barb and clamps but a quick fitting would look much better. They do sell the male fitting or they are easy to make with tubing, washer and solder.

nidjol · 09-20-2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrekGTO...


	That sux, they are too fragile. I would drill tap and put in new fitting. Could use hose barb and clamps but a quick fitting would look much better. They do sell the male fitting or they are easy to make with tubing, washer and solder.

Yeah, I was wanting to see if anyone has had this problem and found a solution. I was looking for a hollow male end with threading on one end so I could thread it into the manifold but have no idea where to buy such an odd piece of hardware.

mistermike-[Tech Spec] · 09-21-2009, 04:23 AM

Clean it with alcohol and cement it back together with PC7 epoxy paste, building up a nice thick layer of it on the outside. Allow to cure fully before putting it into service.

cncmasterofor · 09-21-2009, 05:32 AM

^^^ That would be the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way to go. If you still have the broken piece.

With mine I was in a pinch for time. So I used SS tubing and a washer.
Here is something to look at. http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disco...plings/=3q7al9 Now I don't remember what the correct size is. It's just something off the top of my head.

hivoltagedriver · 09-21-2009, 05:41 AM

Or plug the hole in the intake and tune out the code. I don't have any of that stuff hooked up any more.

I agree that they are in a bad spot, and all too fragile though.

nidjol · 09-21-2009, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistermike...


	Clean it with alcohol and cement it back together with PC7 epoxy paste, building up a nice thick layer of it on the outside. Allow to cure fully before putting it into service.

Yeah, I lost the broken piece somewhere in m engine bay. It fell when it broke off, and I wasn't able to find it.

nidjol · 09-21-2009, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cncmasterofor...


	^^^ That would be the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way to go. If you still have the broken piece. With mine I was in a pinch for time. So I used SS tubing and a washer. Here is something to look at. http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disco...plings/=3q7al9 Now I don't remember what the correct size is. It's just something off the top of my head.

Thanks! Anyway to find out what size I would need?

nidjol · 09-21-2009, 10:56 AM

Thank You all for the advice! I checked my check engine light and it shows that my Long Term Fuel Bank 1 is too lean. I adjusted my injector slope by 5% to make my fuel injectors spray more fuel. Is this code because of my evap line?

TrekGTO · 09-21-2009, 03:02 PM

I have cut that same fitting off fuel filter and soldered it to a 1/8” pipe fitting, drilled taped plastic intake NP. The plastic intakes are used today on most cars, we have to fab up repairs when things go wrong. They get old and brittle. I’m thinking ford FF but not sure about diameter. It only needs to seal on O ring inside.
I can make you one if you want. You need to plug hole in intake. I have seen that fitting for sale but very expensive.

cncmasterofor · 09-21-2009, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nidjol...


	Thanks! Anyway to find out what size I would need?

5/16" is what you need. Just measure the OD on the male end.
But first I would really double check to see if you can find the broken piece. Pull the skid plate, check behind the water pump, etc. Then I would check with a local auto parts store. Something like Napa or carquest. They sell repair kits for that. Not to sure if any of them are threaded on the other end.
If all else fails McMastercarr can be your friend. I would order both male and female. Double check your clearance to the power steering reservoir. It's a tight fit.

nidjol · 09-22-2009, 06:53 PM

I bought a "barb" from Home Depot today and drilled a 1/4" hole for it through the same hole that was there. I have it setting as I type with JB Weld. Tomorrow I will JB Weld the Evap hose to the "barb". The JB Weld should create the "seal" on both ends and make it functional again. I will update after I run my GOAT without any codes for a week. Thanks again for all the advice and offers!!!

mistermike-[Tech Spec] · 09-23-2009, 03:53 AM

Don't glue the hose. It's under vacuum and isn't coming off with a barbed fitting. If you're paranoid, use a hose clamp, but gluinig a hose on is ridiculous.

nidjol · 09-23-2009, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistermike...


	Don't glue the hose. It's under vacuum and isn't coming off with a barbed fitting. If you're paranoid, use a hose clamp, but gluinig a hose on is ridiculous.

Yeah,I had second thoughts about using JB Weld on the hose end.....I decided to use some teflon tape on the barb to create a seal.

cncmasterofor · 09-23-2009, 09:56 PM

Glad it all worked out for ya.

nidjol · 09-24-2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cncmasterofor...


	Glad it all worked out for ya.

Thanks we'll see if the seal holds up. I'll update with my process and pics if I don't throw any codes for a week.

nidjol · 10-19-2009, 12:17 PM

So, it's been almost a month since I fixed this problem.
1. I bought a 3/16"x3/16" Brass Barb Splicer ($2.25)

,JB Weld Cold Weld ($4.97) comes with 2 tubes one black and one red (Not the Quick JB Weld)

, and a roll of Teflon Tape ($1.97)

all from The Home Depot.
2. I cut what was left of my evap tube (the plastic tube that's part of the intake manifold) so that it was flush and nothing but a hole.
3. I then got my drill and enlarged the hole using a 1/4" drill bit to be able to fit the barb. Once the drilling was done I used a can of compressed air to clean the plastic shavings from the manifold.
4. The Brass Barb has a raised section right in the middle which serves as a "stopper" or a way to know how far to put the barb into the manifold. I used the instructions on the JB Weld packaging to mix a small amount and spread the mixture around the "stopper" and carefully inserted it into the manifold. Once I positioned the Barb I gave it a few clockwise turns to insure the mixture made contact 360 degrees. Let the JB Weld cure 24 hours or at least overnight.
5. Now for the hose that slips over the barb....I used a pair of bolt cutters to cut the clip on the end of the hose at it's base. Once the clip has been removed, I used the same drill bit to bore out the hose to make room for the barb. Cleaned out using compressed air.
6. Once the curing time is done, use the teflon tape to wrap around the barb several times. Connect your hose by slipping it over the barb to create the seal. ***Optional*** I was a little paranoid about the hose coming off the barb so I dabbed a little bit of super glue on the inside of the hose to insure that it wouldn't come off easily and super glue will come off in the future if you need it to, unlike the JB Weld.****. A hose clamp wouldn't of worked since the hose is very hard.

End Result-