I have been fighting this condition for a while, but recently, it has gotten considerably worse. I am planning on ordering everything on Friday and hope to get it here in time to get it all on so I can do the Skyline Dr cruise on the 8th (I'll be busy all day on the 7th). I just want to make sure I'm on the right track. I don't have a ton of money to throw at this thing right now, but it needs done and I'm hoping this does the trick.
I'm putting together my BOM to fix this damn front strut rub. I did the upper strut mounts. They did ok for a short time, but then they just went to crap again. This is what I'm going with so far. This is the pedders 'strut rub kit':
4306 GM Strut Clevis Bolt & Nut Pkg 2 Available
4358 Pont GTO Bump Stop Front 2 Available
5030 Strut Mount Bearing 2 Available
5851 Heavy Duty Strut Mounts 2 Available
EP9166 Pont GTO Radius Rod Castor 1 Available
PDUSA5409 Pont GTO 5409 rpl nut 2 Available
Pont GTO Comfort Gas Strut
Also, I was told the caster could not be changed. That was the only thing that was left out when I had my alignment done.
Anything else I need to consider or put on the list? I don't have endless 'funds', but this issue needs to get solved...... VERY soon.
The Pedders "notirerub" package worked for me. I went with +2 caster when I installed the RR bushings and really like the handling, even with worn tires (just moved the rear tire up front in case the fix didn't work). It's been a few months and everything is still good. Getting new front tires this weekend.
Ok, now when I went into the stealership, I was informed my caster was 'out', but there was no real 'adjustment' for it. I don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need. The struts feel ok, but I thought that was one of the things I needed to replace anyways. I did the upper strut mounts at the beginning of summer and they held on for a bit. Then it just got worse again. The no tire rub kit from Pedders is a definite. But if I don't need the struts, I won't worry about it. I do have 87K on mine, so I figured it was about time anyways.
With 87k, it's probably a good idea to just go ahead and replace the struts while you have them all apart. Wouldn't doubt that the caster is out because of the RR bushings. Mine were like mush when I removed them. I would try and find an experienced wheel alignment shop that deals with suspension mods, Pedders certified if you're lucky.
Failed RR bushings = your tire and strut rub. GM still insists to this day that there is nothing wrong with our suspensions. They didn't even want to see my box full of wasted parts.
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No note, no warranty, no stock parts. Yep, she's all mine.
Mods = Air and Bumpstick mods, LS7 Clutch, Brakes, 18x8.5/18x9.5 Pedders Street II - 430/400
Quote:
Douggo:If you remove the bolts on one end of the spoiler, and loosen the ones on the other, at speeds above 130 a little wiggle of the steering wheel allows the spoiler to bitchslap the Mustang in the next lane.
The strut rub kit is a definite. The biggest thing I'm trying to figure out is if I should do new struts as well. If I had less miles I would say 'no', but with the 87K, I'm thinking I should. I would just hate to buy all this stuff (about $1000 worth), only to either find nothing else was needed..... or none of it worked.
Pull the boots up on the struts and see if oil is dripping down the piston rod of the strut. If there is no oil leak and there is no excessive nose dive while braking or excessive front end bounce, you are OK. However, if you are going to have it all apart, it would be a good time to replace them with a better performing set. You will notice a difference a difference in feel and looking at the bigger picture, you'll be ahead of the game $$$ wise replacing them.
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2004 QuickSilver/Black/M6 (1 of 889)
Performance:
SLP LT's with Cats, Corsa Touring, LPE CAI, MSD Wires, NGK TR55's, GMM RipShifter, Elite Catch Can, Lubricated by Pennzoil Platinum, Royal Purple, & Torco, Tuned by Jeremy Formato - 333 RWHP, 348 RWTQ
Find a BMW tech who is experienced with suspension. Ours are very similar to their old suspensions.
I had a bad right rub and after my buddy aligned it it's been perfect ever since.
Considering that the GTO/Monaro design is based on the Holden Commodore, which was originally based on a 1980's Opel GmbH design, you could conclude that the suspension was probably designed by Germans.
Considering that the GTO/Monaro design is based on the Holden Commodore, which was originally based on a 1980's Opel GmbH design, you could conclude that the suspension was probably designed by Germans.
That is definate.
The Omega, Astra and others all have the same Opel designed Strutmount and Bearing.
I surfed on German Opel sites and found "our parts", but the price is even more than over here.
I went ahead and ordered everything. Strut rub kit, RR rear bushings, new GSR struts. The only thing I was unsure about and don't plan on replacing are the springs. I'm quite sure the "k" factor on those are ok. I figured since I'm going to have everything apart, I might as well hit just about all of it. So now I just need to wait for everything to come in and fix it all up. As far as camber angle, I just need to pound it into the GM dealership that they CAN adjust it now. I know when it was checked when I got my alignment at first, they showed me it was out, but couldn't do anything about it. So I will cross my fingers and toes. I'm hoping to make a cruise on Sunday, so this stuff needs to get on before the weekend.
As far as camber angle, I just need to pound it into the GM dealership that they CAN adjust it now.
Camber was always adjustable, the caster now has some adjustment due to the Pedders RR bushings. Though the new bushings may cure some of your problems all by themselves.
Ok, I have all my parts and am about to go down and get them all on. The upper mounts are on backorder, but I have some stuff I need to do this weekend and I MUST get what I have on. I hope this doesn't hurt too much. I will replace them with the heavy duty ones as soon as I get them. So strut rub kit, struts, etc..... wish me luck. I'm sure I'll be on later with questions lol.
I replaced my RR bushings, struts, strut mounts and bearings. With the proper tools it's easy. My right front strut was smurfed when I got the car with 12,000 miles, the car has been like new since then with nice even tire wear.
Well, I can report that changing all this stuff has not done a damn thing to solve my strut rub. I am completely back to square one. A new Camaro is looking better and better with each passing minute.
I had my first tire rub issue last month. Rotated tires and suddenly the front left tire rubbed. This tire has been in that position before, with no trouble.
So, I put the tires back the way they were and no further troubles. I have a big section missing from that tire that rubbed and it's toast as soon as my winters go on next week.
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An 8.06 percenter.
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Originally Posted by Midnight...
Take a sheet of ice, add 12 angry Canadians with sticks and ice skates, shake well...
Well, I can report that changing all this stuff has not done a damn thing to solve my strut rub. I am completely back to square one. A new Camaro is looking better and better with each passing minute.
Did you get it aligned already? Problem won't go away without alignment. Those new parts just keep it from collapsing right back to rubbing again.
I replaced the front, not the rear. Me and a friend of mine put the stuff on. It wasn't that hard at all. The thing that gets me is the rub has actually been going on for a while now. (almost 6 months) I did a few small things (strut mounts only, alignments, etc...) to try to solve it, however, it has gotten very bad in the past month. That is why I went ahead and did a 'clean sweep'. However, it did not improve the rub at all. I figured even before an alignment, it would still rub, but it wouldn't be so bad that it would continue to shake the steering wheel back and forth. It did not improve the situation at all. I will go get it aligned again, but I honestly think the rub is too bad that an alignment will not solve it completely. The interesting thing is, I can see where the tire and strut rub, however, even as bad and loud as the rub is, it is not cutting the tire at all. It is kind of 'smoothing' it. Yet, if you would listen to the rub, you would think the tire would shread within the next 5 minutes. I keep getting the laundry lists of stuff to do, but I don't have a money tree in the garage. So I can't just run back and forth to the dealership for alignments.
Now, the one question I do have which I think I want to try next is when I went to one alignment shop, they gave me the 'print out' that gave all my alignment numbers before the parts swap. They were not able to set everything, but one number has me concerned. My caster angle on the passenger side was at 9.5 degrees (drivers side was 8.8 degrees). I know 9 degrees is the absolute max, but would the .5 difference from the top allowable caster angle really cause that much of an issue. Again, wouldn't have the new parts which included the RR bushings to the Pedders at least caused it to change a bit (not go away due to a new alignment needed). One of the big things about the install was the nut top of the tower assembly, and on top of the strut itself were VERY difficult to get off and back on. So it doesn't feel right. Is there anything I can do here at home that could change anything?
sorry about the Camaro comment. I do like them and yes, I would like to have one. But it would break my heart to trade in the goat on one. I've put my goat through hell and back and other than this one issue, it has not even slowed down. Even after 90K miles.
... but it wouldn't be so bad that it would continue to shake the steering wheel back and forth.
Strut rub shouldn't shake your steering wheel unless your tire has excessive runout.
What is your camber setting? If it's too far negitive you will rub.
With the car off the ground, spin the front tires and see if they rub. If you have a gap between the tire and strut when it's up in the air, but lose it when the car is on the ground, you might have loose wheel bearings.
If the tire rubs when the car is in the air, try adding more positive camber, pull the top of the wheel out when the strut to knuckle bolts are loose. You should be about -2* camber.
When I got my current GTO I had very slight rub with 245/45R17's. I checked and found I had -7* camber, reset the crap alignment the car had and it was fine, I ended up with -3* camber. No rub.
Ok, I should have the new heavy duty strut mounts on here in a day or 2. I'm trying to find one mount bearing so I can get these on correctly. I'm really hoping this solves the issue, however, I'm still not thinking it will. Can anyone please give me an idea to why the nut on the strut tower was such a pain. I know it is grossly overtorqued and is still not completely tight (I can spin the disk on top of the strut). I'm at a loss here and just not sure what I can do. I don't have the money to continue to chase this issue around. I'm needing to get it fixed correctly. As I said, my situation is it still rubs like hell. The steering wheel has a bit of a small pull back and forth (in time with the rub......if that makes sense).
Strut rub shouldn't shake your steering wheel unless your tire has excessive runout.
What is your camber setting? If it's too far negitive you will rub.
With the car off the ground, spin the front tires and see if they rub. If you have a gap between the tire and strut when it's up in the air, but lose it when the car is on the ground, you might have loose wheel bearings.
If the tire rubs when the car is in the air, try adding more positive camber, pull the top of the wheel out when the strut to knuckle bolts are loose. You should be about -2* camber.
When I got my current GTO I had very slight rub with 245/45R17's. I checked and found I had -7* camber, reset the crap alignment the car had and it was fine, I ended up with -3* camber. No rub.
What size wheel tire combo are you running?
Plus friggin 1...I don't understand how everyone claims the strut top/RR bushing is to blame for the strut rub, when that distance is fixed by the camber adjustment screw and the strut to knuckle bolts. There isn't any rubber controlling that distance! None!
I bet the reason this "fixes" the problem for everyone is when you replace the strut top bushing you have to disassemble the strut/knuckle, and then reassemble it. Then you get it aligned to the proper specs and viola, everything is fixed.
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"You can sleep in your car, but you can't race your house..."
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
2004 GTO Owner
Monaro CV8
